CN114392219B - Peony extract composition with soothing effect and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Peony extract composition with soothing effect and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114392219B CN114392219B CN202210110140.9A CN202210110140A CN114392219B CN 114392219 B CN114392219 B CN 114392219B CN 202210110140 A CN202210110140 A CN 202210110140A CN 114392219 B CN114392219 B CN 114392219B
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- peony
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- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 119
- 235000006484 Paeonia officinalis Nutrition 0.000 title claims abstract description 101
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 73
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 43
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 244000170916 Paeonia officinalis Species 0.000 title 1
- 241000736199 Paeonia Species 0.000 claims abstract description 100
- PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalane Chemical compound CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C PRAKJMSDJKAYCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 43
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Triacontane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC JXTPJDDICSTXJX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 125000001312 palmitoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 15
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- 241000226555 Leontopodium Species 0.000 claims abstract description 13
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- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 14
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- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 13
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- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 7
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- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
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- 229940015975 1,2-hexanediol Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCC(O)CO FHKSXSQHXQEMOK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000002386 leaching Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-ethylnonane-1,2,3-triol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)(CC)C(O)CO ANZUDYZHSVGBRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- IDGUHHHQCWSQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethanol;hydrate Chemical compound O.CCO IDGUHHHQCWSQLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- RGUVUPQQFXCJFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hydroxyoctanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)NO RGUVUPQQFXCJFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 230000005764 inhibitory process Effects 0.000 description 6
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- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229910002091 carbon monoxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 239000000706 filtrate Substances 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- UZOVYGYOLBIAJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-isocyanato-4'-methyldiphenylmethane Chemical compound C1=CC(C)=CC=C1CC1=CC=C(N=C=O)C=C1 UZOVYGYOLBIAJR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 108091003079 Bovine Serum Albumin Proteins 0.000 description 3
- UGFAIRIUMAVXCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon monoxide Chemical compound [O+]#[C-] UGFAIRIUMAVXCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- IAZDPXIOMUYVGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylsulphoxide Chemical compound CS(C)=O IAZDPXIOMUYVGZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-methyl-2,4-dioxo-1,3-diazinane-5-carboximidamide Chemical compound CN1CC(C(N)=N)C(=O)NC1=O IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241000609666 Tuber aestivum Species 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- DPXJVFZANSGRMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N acetic acid;2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanal;sodium Chemical compound [Na].CC(O)=O.OCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(O)C=O DPXJVFZANSGRMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- CJAONIOAQZUHPN-KKLWWLSJSA-N ethyl 12-[[2-[(2r,3r)-3-[2-[(12-ethoxy-12-oxododecyl)-methylamino]-2-oxoethoxy]butan-2-yl]oxyacetyl]-methylamino]dodecanoate Chemical compound CCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCN(C)C(=O)CO[C@H](C)[C@@H](C)OCC(=O)N(C)CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC CJAONIOAQZUHPN-KKLWWLSJSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- LXAHHHIGZXPRKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-fluoro-2-methylpyridine Chemical compound CC1=CC=C(F)C=N1 LXAHHHIGZXPRKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 206010002198 Anaphylactic reaction Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 102000004127 Cytokines Human genes 0.000 description 1
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- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003109 Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZGTMUACCHSMWAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L EDTA disodium salt (anhydrous) Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].OC(=O)CN(CC([O-])=O)CCN(CC(O)=O)CC([O-])=O ZGTMUACCHSMWAC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
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- SOYKEARSMXGVTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N chlorphenamine Chemical compound C=1C=CC=NC=1C(CCN(C)C)C1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1 SOYKEARSMXGVTM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P20/00—Technologies relating to chemical industry
- Y02P20/50—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals
- Y02P20/54—Improvements relating to the production of bulk chemicals using solvents, e.g. supercritical solvents or ionic liquids
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and in particular relates to a peony extract composition with a relieving effect, and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 8-12 parts of peony flower extract, 0.15-1 part of peony seed oil, 3-5 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 4-8 parts of black fungus extract, 1-5 parts of winged seed moringa seed extract, 1-5 parts of alpine leontopodium herb extract, 1-3 parts of squalane, 2.5-5 parts of bacteriostat, 25-50 parts of emulsifier and 30-45 parts of water. Through the synergistic effect of the components, the anti-inflammatory, repairing and barrier triple-angle omnibearing repairing is realized, the soothing and anti-allergic effects of the composition are obviously improved, and sensitive skin is improved and repaired.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a peony extract composition with a relieving effect, and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
With the continuous enhancement of the atmospheric pollution and the electric wave radiation, the living environment of the skin is more and more severe, various skin problems are continuously caused, and more than 90% of women are bothered by the skin problems each year. As a result of global consumer surveys, 60% of all consumers worldwide claim to be skin-sensitive, and in fact epidemiological surveys issued by the World Allergic Organization (WAO) have been conducted in a total of 12 hundred million people in 30 countries, 2.5 hundred million of whom suffer from allergic diseases.
At present, the exact meaning of sensitive skin is not agreed, and the sensitive skin has the characteristics of unknown etiology, high incidence rate, difficult radical treatment and the like, is generally considered to be a highly intolerant skin state, generally has reduced tolerance to stimulus, and a series of abnormal sensory reactions appear, generally starts from a thin and tender part of the skin, gradually develops to ears and necks, and seriously spreads to the whole body. Cosmetic in modern society is now an indispensable article in people's life, and unreasonable use of cosmetic, or the chemical composition that contains therein, and it is very unfavorable to people's health to use for a long time not only can also lead to skin lax, edema, the stratum corneum is too thin, easy anaphylaxis etc. can become more obvious to sensitive skin's influence, makes the skin become more fragile and easy ageing.
At present, most of common cosmetics with skin soothing effect on the market improve the moisturizing effect so as to achieve the repairing effect. For example, patent application CN113730322a discloses an anti-allergic and soothing cosmetic comprising the following components: the anti-aging, moisturizing and soothing effects of the cosmetics are improved through the synergistic effect of the components. But only the skin irritation can be relieved briefly by moisturizing, and the problems that fragile sensitive skin is easy to feel stinging and itching, and is easy to reddish and has red blood streaks can not be fundamentally solved.
Disclosure of Invention
Based on the defect that the prior art has single soothing effect and can treat the symptoms without treating the root causes, the invention provides a peony extract composition with multiple soothing effects, and a preparation method and application thereof.
For this reason, the invention provides a peony extract composition with relieving effect, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 8-12 parts of peony flower extract, 0.15-1 part of peony seed oil, 3-5 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 4-8 parts of black fungus extract, 1-5 parts of winged seed moringa seed extract, 1-5 parts of alpine leontopodium herb extract, 1-3 parts of squalane, 2.5-5 parts of bacteriostat, 25-50 parts of emulsifier and 30-45 parts of water.
Preferably, the preparation method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: leaching flos moutan with alkaline alcohol solution, extracting with ethanol, separating solid and liquid, ultrafiltering supernatant, concentrating, adsorbing with macroporous resin, eluting, and concentrating eluate to obtain flos moutan extract.
Preferably, the alkaline alcohol solution comprises sodium carbonate and 50-60% ethanol water solution by volume percent, wherein the concentration of the sodium carbonate is 0.1-1g/L.
Preferably, in the rinsing step, the ratio of the mass of the peony flower to the volume of the alkaline alcohol solution is 1:80-120, wherein the ratio of the mass to the volume is g/mL.
Preferably, the rinsing time is 10-20min.
Preferably, the volume percentage concentration of the ethanol is 50-75%.
Preferably, the ratio of the mass of the peony to the volume of the ethanol is 1:8-12, and the ratio of the mass to the volume is g/mL.
Preferably, the extraction temperature is 40-60deg.C, and the extraction time is 30-60min.
Preferably, the ultrafiltration has a molecular weight cut-off of 70kDa to 100kDa.
Preferably, the macroporous resin is selected from one or more of D101, T28, H-30, LX-8, ADS-7, LX-20B, LX-T81.
Preferably, the eluent is water.
Preferably, the preparation method of the peony seed oil comprises the following steps: shelling peony seeds, crushing, carrying out enzymolysis, drying, extracting and separating to obtain the peony seed oil.
Preferably, the enzymolysis adopts alkaline protease, the enzymolysis temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the enzymolysis time is 30-60min.
Preferably, the addition amount of the enzyme is 0.01-0.03% of the mass of the peony seeds.
Preferably, the drying mode is vacuum drying, the drying temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the drying time is 24-36h.
Preferably, the extraction mode is CO 2 Supercritical extraction is carried out, wherein the extraction solvent is ethanol and ethyl acetate, the extraction pressure is 20-30MPa, and the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃.
Preferably, the bacteriostat is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, chlorpheniramine, 1, 2-hexanediol, octanoyl hydroxamic acid and ethylhexyl glycerol.
Preferably, the emulsifier is selected from one or two of polyglycerol-10 stearate and hydrogenated lecithin.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing flos moutan extract, black spore block fungus extract, winged seed and moringa seed extract, herba Centipedae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, antibacterial agent, emulsifier and water to obtain phase A;
(2) Uniformly mixing peony seed oil and squalane to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding phase B into phase A, and mixing to obtain the composition.
Preferably, in the step (3), the mixing mode is high-speed shearing and emulsifying for 3-10min under the condition of 7000-10000 rpm.
The invention further provides application of the composition or the composition prepared by the preparation method in preparation of cosmetics with relieving effect.
Preferably, the composition is added to the cosmetic in an amount of 2-8%.
Preferably, the cosmetic is selected from one or more of moisturizing water, emulsion, essence, face cream and facial mask.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
1. the invention takes the peony extract, the peony seed oil, the palmitoyl tripeptide-8, the black spore truffle extract, the alpine leonurus herb extract, the squalane and the winged seed moringa seed extract as active ingredients, has the mutual synergistic effect, can repair the stratum corneum barrier, relieve and repair the skin, isolate pollutants in the air, and has the effects of whitening and moisturizing.
Wherein, the peony extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 can relieve the neurogenic inflammation caused by sensitive skin, and have anti-inflammatory, anti-irritation and soothing effects; squalane can open skin pores, promote blood microcirculation, promote metabolism of cells, and help repair damaged cells; the alpine leontopodium herb extract can enter the basal layer of the skin through a skin water channel, double promotes the self-repair of the skin, and enables damaged cells and broken fibers to regrow; the moringa seed extract can block pollutants in the air. The composition is compounded to realize the anti-inflammatory, repairing and barrier triple-angle omnibearing repairing, obviously improve the soothing and anti-allergic effects of the composition and improve and repair sensitive skin.
In addition, in order to improve the soothing effect of the composition, the peony seed oil added in the invention can promote the absorption of functional components such as skin peony extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8 and the like, has the effects of whitening and resisting oxidation, has the effect of exceeding the penetration enhancer in the traditional cosmetics when being matched with squalane, and is safer and more effective.
The alpine leontopodium herb extract and squalane are used for repairing damaged skin together, so that the skin state is improved, and the skin soothing effect of the composition is improved.
The truffle extract is used as a skin conditioner and is used together with squalane to improve the moisturizing effect of the composition; is matched with the peony extract and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 to improve the skin soothing effect of the composition.
2. The preparation method of the peony extract provided by the invention has higher extraction efficiency and more active ingredient content, and can further improve the soothing effect of the composition on skin by being added into the composition.
3. The preparation method of the peony seed oil provided by the invention has higher purity, accelerates metabolism of the new city of skin and has more obvious permeation promotion effect. In addition, the prepared peony seed oil contains various natural antioxidant components, and can also improve the antioxidant effect of the composition.
4. In the preparation method of the composition, the composition is prepared into micron-sized dispersoid by a high-speed shearing and emulsifying mode, so that the skin absorption efficiency is higher, the functional components can reach the target positions more accurately, and the effects of relieving, resisting oxidation, whitening and the like of the composition are further improved.
5. The composition provided by the invention can be applied to the preparation of various cosmetics, such as moisturizing water, emulsion, essence, face cream, facial mask and the like, has soft and smooth skin feel, is safe and nonirritating, has the effect of relieving sensitive skin, has the effects of resisting oxidation and whitening, meets the requirements of modern pursues on safety, high efficiency, economy and the like, and has a wide application value.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the embodiments of the present invention, and it is apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be made by one of ordinary skill in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without making any inventive effort, are intended to be within the scope of the invention.
The peony extract and the peony seed oil in the following embodiments of the invention can be purchased directly or prepared by the preparation method of the invention; in the following examples of the present invention, peony extract was purchased from the company of the biological engineering, inc. of Siam Rayleigh if purchased; peony seed oil is purchased from Zhengzhou food, full-food, beauty and trade limited company, and the content of effective substances is 99%;
palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is purchased from Shaanxi east Biotech Inc., brand TOSO, 98%;
blackia extract was purchased from Shenzhen Rejite Biotech Co., ltd., CAS number 85085-76-3;
the moringa seed extract was purchased from Shanghai dawn industries, inc., 99% content;
the alpine leontopodium herb extract was purchased from the biotechnology company of sienna green zhi;
squalane was purchased from Shaanxi Saen Biotech Co., ltd, content 98%, CAS:111-01-3.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a peony extract composition with relieving effect, which comprises 10 parts of peony extract, 0.5 part of peony seed oil, 4 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 6 parts of black fungus extract, 3 parts of winged-seed moringa seed extract, 3 parts of alpine leontopodium herb extract, 2 parts of squalane, 4 parts of phenoxyethanol, 40 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate and 35 parts of water.
The preparation method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: 100g of flos moutan is leached by 10L of alkaline alcohol solution (10L of 55% of ethanol solution contains 5g of sodium carbonate) for 15min, 1L of ethanol with the volume percentage concentration of 60% is added, reflux extraction is carried out at 50 ℃ for 40min, centrifugation is carried out at 800r/min for 20min, the supernatant is ultrafiltered by an ultrafiltration membrane of 80kDa, filtrate is concentrated to be extractum, 15mL of water is added for dissolution, then the solution is added into a D101 macroporous resin column for adsorption, water is used for eluting, eluent is collected and concentrated to be extract, and vacuum drying is carried out at 50 ℃ for 24h, thus obtaining the flos moutan extract.
The preparation method of the peony seed oil comprises the following steps: 50g of peony seeds are shelled, crushed, sieved by a 100-mesh sieve, added with 1L of water, added with 1g of alkaline protease, subjected to ultrasonic enzymolysis at 45 ℃ for 40min, centrifuged at 800r/min for 15min, and the precipitate is dried at 45 ℃ for 24h in vacuum; then placing the mixture into an extraction kettle, and performing CO (carbon monoxide) by taking ethanol and ethyl acetate with volume ratio of 1:1 as extraction solvents 2 Supercritical extraction under 25MPa at 60deg.C for extraction and separation I and 55deg.C for separation II to obtain peony seed oil.
The preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing flos moutan extract, black spore block fungus extract, winged seed and herba Euphorbiae Humifusae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, phenoxyethanol, polyglycerol-10 stearate and water to obtain phase A;
(2) Uniformly mixing peony seed oil and squalane to obtain a phase B;
(3) Phase B was added to phase A and high shear emulsification was performed at 8500rpm for 7min to obtain the composition.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a peony extract composition with relieving effect, which comprises 8 parts of peony flower extract, 1 part of peony seed oil, 3 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 4 parts of black spore block extract, 5 parts of moringa seed extract, 5 parts of alpine leontopodium herb extract, 1 part of squalane, 2.5 parts of phenoxyethanol, 25 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate and 30 parts of water.
The preparation method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: 100g of flos moutan is leached by 8L of alkaline alcohol solution (8L of 50% of alcohol solution contains 8g of sodium carbonate) for 10min, 0.8L of alcohol with the volume percentage concentration of 75% is added, reflux extraction is carried out at 40 ℃ for 60min, centrifugation is carried out at 1000r/min for 15min, the supernatant is ultrafiltered by an ultrafiltration membrane of 70kDa, filtrate is concentrated to be extractum, 15mL of water is added for dissolution, then the filtrate is added into an LX-8 macroporous resin column for absorption, water is used for eluting, eluent is collected and concentrated to be extract, and vacuum drying is carried out at 50 ℃ for 24h, thus obtaining the flos moutan extract.
The preparation method of the peony seed oil comprises the following steps: 50g of peony seeds are shelled, crushed, sieved by a 100-mesh sieve, added with 1L of water, added with 0.5g of alkaline protease, subjected to ultrasonic enzymolysis at 40 ℃ for 60min, centrifuged at 800r/min for 15min, and the precipitate is dried at 40 ℃ for 36h in vacuum; placing the mixture into an extraction kettle, and performing CO (carbon monoxide) by taking ethanol and ethyl acetate with volume ratio of 1:1 as extraction solvents 2 Supercritical extraction under 20MPa at 55deg.C for extraction and separation I and 50deg.C for separation II to obtain peony seed oil.
The preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing flos moutan extract, black spore block fungus extract, winged seed and herba Euphorbiae Humifusae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, phenoxyethanol, polyglycerol-10 stearate and water to obtain phase A;
(2) Uniformly mixing peony seed oil and squalane to obtain a phase B;
(3) Phase B was added to phase A and high-speed shear emulsification was performed at 7000rpm for 10min to obtain the composition.
Example 3
The embodiment provides a peony extract composition with relieving effect, which comprises 12 parts of peony extract, 0.15 part of peony seed oil, 5 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 8 parts of black fungus extract, 1 part of moringa seed extract, 1 part of alpine leontopodium herb extract, 3 parts of squalane, 5 parts of 1, 2-hexanediol, 50 parts of hydrogenated lecithin and 45 parts of water.
The preparation method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: 100g of flos moutan is leached for 20min by 12L of alkaline alcohol solution (12L of 60% of ethanol solution contains 1.2g of sodium carbonate), 1.2L of ethanol with the volume percentage concentration of 50% is added, reflux extraction is carried out at 60 ℃ for 30min, centrifugation is carried out at 800r/min for 20min, the supernatant is ultrafiltered by a 100kDa ultrafiltration membrane, filtrate is concentrated to be in an extract shape, 15mL of water is added for dissolution, then the extract is added into a D101 macroporous resin column for adsorption, water is used for eluting, eluent is collected and concentrated to be in an extract shape, and vacuum drying is carried out at 50 ℃ for 24h, thus obtaining the flos moutan extract.
The preparation method of the peony seed oil comprises the following steps: 50g of peony seeds are shelled, crushed, sieved by a 100-mesh sieve, added with 1L of water, added with 1.5g of alkaline protease, subjected to ultrasonic enzymolysis at 50 ℃ for 30min, centrifuged at 800r/min for 15min, and the precipitate is dried at 50 ℃ for 36h in vacuum; placing the mixture into an extraction kettle, and performing CO (carbon monoxide) by taking ethanol and ethyl acetate with volume ratio of 1:1 as extraction solvents 2 Supercritical extraction, extracting pressure of 30MPa, extracting and separating I at 70deg.C and separating II at 65deg.C, and separating to obtain peony seed oil.
The preparation method of the composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing flos moutan extract, black spore block fungus extract, winged seed and herba Euphorbiae Humifusae extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 1, 2-hexanediol, polyglycerol-10 stearate and water to obtain phase A;
(2) Uniformly mixing peony seed oil and squalane to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding phase B into phase A, and emulsifying at high speed shearing at 10000rpm for 3min to obtain the composition.
Example 4
This example provides a composition of peony extract with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that the peony extract is used directly as a commercial product.
Example 5
This example provides a soothing peony extract composition which differs from example 1 only in that the peony seed oil is used directly as a commercial product.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that palmitoyl tripeptide-8 is omitted.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition having soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that the peony extract is omitted.
Comparative example 3
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that palmitoyl tripeptide-8 and peony extract are omitted.
Comparative example 4
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that the alpine leontopodium herb extract is omitted.
Comparative example 5
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing effect, which differs from example 1 only in that squalane is omitted
Comparative example 6
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that the alpine leontopodium herb extract and squalane are omitted.
Comparative example 7
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that the moringa seed extract is omitted.
Comparative example 8
This comparative example provides a peony extract composition with soothing efficacy, which differs from example 1 only in that peony seed oil is omitted.
Experimental example 1
The effects of the peony extract compositions of examples 1-5, comparative examples 1-8 on the histamine release and pro-inflammatory cytokine expression of KU812 cells were examined as follows:
preparing and treating a tested sample: 1mg of the peony extract composition of examples 1-5, comparative examples 1-8, respectively, was dissolved with 10mL of LDMSO, and diluted to a concentration of 0.05mg/mL in IMDM medium with 10% fetal bovine serum.
Cell culture and model establishment: cell density was diluted to 2.2X10 with IMDM medium containing 10% fetal bovine serum 6 Each mL was then plated in 96-well plates at an inoculum size of 180. Mu.L per well.
Grouping and processing: the method comprises the steps of dividing a peony extract composition experimental group, a model control group, a blank control group and setting 3 parallel groups in each group; wherein 20 mu L of sample to be tested is added to the peony extract composition experimental group, 20 mu L of IMDM culture solution containing 10% fetal bovine serum is added to the blank control group and the model control group respectively, and the mixture is placed at 37 ℃ and 5% CO 2 After 2h incubation in incubator, the experimental group and the model control group of the peony extract composition are respectively added with 5 mu L of 40nM crotyl alcohol-12-tetradecanoate-13-acetate (PMA) and 5 mu L of 1 mu M calcium ionophore (A23187); the blank group was added with 10. Mu.L of DMSO.
And (3) index detection: after 2h, the cells were centrifuged, and the cell supernatant was collected, and the content of histamine and IL-1α in the supernatant was measured according to ELISA detection kit (manufacturer, wuhan Aidi Biotechnology Co., ltd., product numbers AD20844 and AD 20077), and the content of histamine and IL-1α in the hollow white control group was significantly lower than that in the model control group, indicating that the modeling was successful.
Histamine release inhibition (%) = (model group histamine content-experimental group histamine content)/model group histamine content x 100%;
inhibition rate of IL-1α release (%) = (model group IL-1α content-experimental group IL-1α content)/model group IL-1α content; the results of the histamine release inhibition and IL-1. Alpha. Release inhibition of each group are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 Effect of different peony extract compositions on KU812 cell histamine release and IL-1 alpha release
The data in Table 1 show that the peony extract composition provided by the embodiment of the invention can obviously inhibit the release of KU812 cell histamine and IL-1 alpha and has the potential effect of relieving allergic skin. Comparative example 1 omitted palmitoyl tripeptide-8, comparative example 2 omitted peony extract, comparative example 3 omitted palmitoyl tripeptide-8 and peony extract simultaneously, and compared with comparative example 3, the histamine release inhibition rate and IL-1α release inhibition rate of example 1 were increased by 44.26% and 16.68% respectively, comparative example 1 was increased by 12.71% and 33.98% respectively, and comparative example 2 was increased by 8.27% and 25.24% respectively, and it was found that the effect of example 1 was significantly superior to that of comparative examples 1 and 2, demonstrating that palmitoyl tripeptide-8 and peony extract have the effect of synergistically improving the anti-inflammatory effect. Similarly, the results of comparative examples 4-6 show that squalane and alpine leontopodium herb have the function of repairing damaged cells, and the combination of the squalane and the alpine leontopodium herb can also play a synergistic role, so that damaged KU812 cells can be recovered, and histamine and IL-1 alpha release are reduced. Comparative example 7 and comparative example 8, omitting the moringa seed extract and peony seed oil, respectively, improved the release of histamine and IL-1α from KU812 cells, demonstrating that the moringa seed extract can effectively block damage to KU812 cells caused by external stimulus, and avoid release of histamine and IL-1α; the peony seed oil is used as a penetration enhancer, and can promote active ingredients such as peony extract and the like to play an anti-inflammatory role, so that the soothing effect of the composition is improved.
Experimental example 2
The actual application effect of examples 1-5 was examined, and the compositions of examples 1-5 were applied to the preparation of creams with an addition of 5%, the composition of the specific creams being: 1 part of cetyl alcohol, 2 parts of glyceryl monostearate, 0.5 part of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, 0.5 part of sodium alginate, 6 parts of glycerin, 0.5 part of sorbitol, 1 part of propylene glycol, 0.5 part of triethanolamine, 0.05 part of citric acid, 0.05 part of disodium EDTA, 4.5 parts of a peony extract composition with a soothing effect, and 70 parts of deionized water.
The preparation method of the facial cream mask comprises the following steps: heating cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, sodium alginate, glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, citric acid, EDTA disodium with deionized water to 40deg.C, stirring thoroughly, cooling to room temperature after all materials are dissolved, adding the peony extract composition with relieving effect, and stirring uniformly.
Through questionnaires, 100 people of the sensitive skin are selected and randomly divided into 5 groups, and the face cream prepared by the compositions of examples 1-5 is used for investigation, and is used once every person after cleansing the face every morning and evening every day, without using any other skin care products and cosmetics, and is continuously used for 4 weeks. The extent of improvement of skin problems was self-assessed after 4 weeks using a questionnaire, scoring criteria were as follows:
4, the following steps: the symptoms such as red blood streak, redness, stinging, dryness and the like are well repaired;
3, the method comprises the following steps: the symptoms of red blood streak, redness, stinging, dryness and the like are obviously improved;
2, the method comprises the following steps: the symptoms of red blood streak, redness, stinging, dryness and the like are slightly improved;
1, the method comprises the following steps: the symptoms of red blood streak, redness, stinging, dryness and the like are not improved;
0 point: the symptoms of red blood streak, redness, stinging, dryness, etc. are not improved or even more serious.
TABLE 2 Effect of Using creams prepared from the compositions of examples 1-5
| Score average | |
| Example 1 | 3.7 |
| Example 2 | 3.55 |
| Example 3 | 3.55 |
| Example 4 | 3.5 |
| Example 5 | 3.5 |
The data in Table 2 show that the peony extract composition provided by the invention can be applied to face cream to effectively repair symptoms such as red blood streak, redness, stinging and dryness, and has good relieving and repairing effects.
The foregoing description of the preferred embodiments of the invention is not intended to be limiting, but rather is intended to cover all modifications, equivalents, alternatives, and improvements that fall within the spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims (6)
1. The peony extract composition with the soothing effect is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 8-12 parts of peony extract, 0.15-1 part of peony seed oil, 3-5 parts of palmitoyl tripeptide-8, 4-8 parts of black fungus extract, 1-5 parts of winged seed moringa seed extract, 1-5 parts of alpine leontopodium extract, 1-3 parts of squalane, 2.5-5 parts of bacteriostat, 25-50 parts of emulsifier and 30-45 parts of water;
the preparation method of the peony extract comprises the following steps: leaching flos moutan with alkaline alcohol solution, extracting with ethanol, separating solid and liquid, ultrafiltering supernatant, concentrating, adsorbing with macroporous resin, eluting, and concentrating eluate to obtain flos moutan extract;
wherein the alkaline alcohol solution comprises sodium carbonate and 50-60% ethanol water solution by volume percent, and the concentration of the sodium carbonate is 0.1-1g/L; in the leaching step, the ratio of the mass of the peony to the volume of the alkaline alcohol solution is 1:80-120, wherein the ratio relation of the mass to the volume is g/mL; the leaching time is 10-20min; in the extraction step, the volume percentage concentration of the ethanol is 50-75%, the ratio of the mass of the peony to the volume of the ethanol is 1:8-12, and the ratio relationship of the mass to the volume is g/mL; extracting at 40-60deg.C for 30-60min; the molecular weight cut-off of the ultrafiltration is 70kDa to 100kDa; the macroporous resin is selected from one or more of D101, T28, H-30, LX-8, ADS-7 and LX-20B, LX-T81; the eluent is water;
the preparation method of the peony seed oil comprises the following steps: shelling peony seeds, crushing, carrying out enzymolysis, drying, extracting and separating to obtain peony seed oil;
wherein, alkaline protease is adopted for enzymolysis, the enzymolysis temperature is 40-50 ℃ and the enzymolysis time is 30-60min; the addition amount of the enzyme is 0.01-0.03% of the mass of the peony seeds; the drying mode is vacuum drying, the drying temperature is 40-50 ℃, and the drying time is 24-36 hours; the extraction mode is CO 2 Supercritical extraction is carried out, wherein the extraction solvent is ethanol and ethyl acetate, the extraction pressure is 20-30MPa, and the extraction temperature is 50-70 ℃.
2. The composition of peony extract with soothing effect according to claim 1, wherein said bacteriostatic agent is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, chlorphenicol, 1, 2-hexanediol, octanoyl hydroxamic acid, ethylhexyl glycerol.
3. The composition of peony extract with soothing effect of claim 1, wherein said emulsifier is selected from one or both of polyglycerol-10 stearate and hydrogenated lecithin.
4. A process for preparing a composition of peony extract with soothing effect as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing flos moutan extract, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, black spore block fungus extract, winged seed moringa extract, herba Mount Cannabifoliae extract, antibacterial agent, emulsifier and water to obtain phase A;
(2) Uniformly mixing peony seed oil and squalane to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding phase B into phase A, and mixing to obtain the composition.
5. Use of a peony extract composition with soothing effect as claimed in any one of claims 1-3 or a composition prepared by the preparation method as claimed in claim 4 for preparing a cosmetic with soothing effect.
6. The use according to claim 5, wherein the composition is added to the cosmetic in an amount of 2-8%.
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| CN104382833A (en) * | 2014-10-28 | 2015-03-04 | 广东碧嫄化妆品有限公司 | Vegetable protein peptide stock solution as well as preparation method and application thereof |
| CN106085584A (en) * | 2016-08-11 | 2016-11-09 | 刘志峰 | A kind of processing method improving oil Paeonia suffruticosa oil yield |
| CN111494266A (en) * | 2020-05-26 | 2020-08-07 | 广州雅纯化妆品制造有限公司 | Soothing and anti-allergy cosmetic composition |
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