Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome above the deficiencies in the prior art, and a kind of worsted fabric is provided, and this worsted fabric has stereovision and third dimension, and its flower type solid is plentiful.
The technical solution adopted in the present invention is for providing a kind of worsted fabric, described worsted fabric comprises three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine, the top layer filling yarn is the twine of one 8~12tex wool yarns and one 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, the middle level filling yarn is two kinds, a kind of is 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk (two strands of " * 2 " expressions), another kind is 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads (two strands of " * 2 " expressions), and the nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 10~12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn.
Wool content is 80~90% in described wool and the cashmere blended yarn.
Another technical problem to be solved by this invention is, the manufacture method of this worsted fabric is provided, and this manufacture method can be prepared has stereovision and third dimension, and the flower type changes abundant worsted fabric.
A kind of manufacture method of worsted fabric may further comprise the steps:
1. prepare yarn: prepare to produce the required yarn of worsted fabric, comprise 8~12tex wool yarns, 2.2~4.4tex mulberry silk, 6.2~8.3tex * 2 spun silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 10~12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn.
2. prepare strand: adopt and close, twist operation, one wool yarns and one mulberry silk are pooled capital prepares wool yarns and mulberry silk twine, and the plying twist is 120~150T
t, with two strands of wools and cashmere blended yarn pool capital preparation wool and cashmere blended yarn twine, the plying twist is 88~98T
t
3. warping: according to the warp thread arrangement mode, adopt warping machines to carry out warping, speed is 500m/min.
The warp thread arrangement mode circulates successively for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn.
4. weave: adopt top layer, middle level, nexine plain weave three-layer weave to weave, determine the parallel arrangement mode, draw pegging plan, determine method of gaiting and reed-in method, weave the formation grey cloth with Rapier looms.
The weft yarn arrangement mode circulates successively for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn.
5. back arrangement: with the grey cloth typing, then open washing, baking, decatizing, worsted fabric.
Compared with prior art, worsted fabric of the present invention has following remarkable advantage and beneficial effect: worsted fabric of the present invention has three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer yarn is the twine of one wool yarns and one mulberry silk, thin and present nettedly, can appear the middle level fabric; The middle level is the intertexture of spun silk and metallized thread, has special gloss, and sees through the reticulated on top layer, produces irregular point of scintillation on the lining surface; Nexine is the BLENDED FABRIC of wool and cashmere, the lining softness, and sense of touch is plentiful, makes comfortable and easy to wearly, and warmth retention property is good.So whole fabric is when satisfying the warmth retention property requirement, also very attractive in appearance, the yarn of different thicknesses and material is arranged in three-layer weave, make lining have uneven stereovision, the colored type solid that forms is plentiful, and interest and mystique that the vivid color of silk and gloss have increased lining have effectively satisfied the high request that expect on the vast personage of liking to be beautiful opposite.
The manufacture method of worsted fabric of the present invention adopts the plain weave three-layer weave to weave, draw the pegging plan of flower type in conjunction with the graticule arrangement mode, select the suitable method of gaiting, reed-in method to weave, make the tissue flower type of weaving out much abundanter than conventional woven, this colored type to worsted fabric has carried out being not only kind, the more important thing is the expansion from the plane to the 3 D stereo, make colored type solid plentiful, enrich changeable; Its position in the lining three-decker of characteristic utilization arranged distribution according to different yarns is fully manifested the third dimension of lining, stereovision, makes various raw material functions highlight, respectively get the chief, thereby has improved the overall performance and the esthetic requirement of lining.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with drawings and Examples the present invention is further described in detail, but is not limited to this.
Embodiment 1
A kind of tartan plaid type worsted fabric comprises three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer filling yarn is made as the A yarn for the twine of one 10tex wool yarns and one 2.2tex mulberry silk; The middle level filling yarn is two kinds, and a kind of is 8.3tex * 2 spun silk, is made as the B yarn, and another kind is 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, is made as the C yarn; The nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn, is made as the D yarn.Wherein, tex is the legal unit of measurement of line density system, the thickness specification of expression yarn; * 2 for the generic representation method in weaving, represents two strands.
The manufacture method of this worsted fabric may further comprise the steps:
1. prepare yarn: prepare to produce the required yarn of this worsted fabric, comprise 10tex wool yarns, 2.2tex mulberry silk, 8.3tex * 2 spun silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn.10tex wool yarns, 12.5tex wool and cashmere blended yarn are the preparation gained, prior art is adopted in the yarn preparation, the i.e. process sequence preparation of dying, spinning according to wool top, bar, wool yarns is that raw material, wool and cashmere blended yarn are raw material (wool content is 90% in wool and the cashmere blended yarn) with wool and cashmere with the wool.2.2tex mulberry silk, 6.5tex * 2 metallized threads, 8.3tex * 2 spun silk are common commercial goods, adopt market to buy gained.The material of the metallized thread of buying is synthetic fiber such as terylene, polyamide fibre, acrylic fibers.
2. prepare strand: adopt prior art, promptly and close, twist operation and carry out the strand preparation.One 10tex wool yarns and one 2.2tex mulberry silk are pooled capital, wool and mulberry silk twine, i.e. A yarn, the plying twist is 140T
tTwo strands of 12.5tex wools and cashmere blended yarn are pooled capital, wool and cashmere blended yarn twine, i.e. D yarn, the plying twist is 88T
t
3. warping: warping adopts prior art, and according to the warp thread arrangement mode, adopt warping machines to carry out warping, speed of beaming is 500m/min.The warp thread arrangement mode circulates successively for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn.
The A yarn that top layer warp thread optional step makes in 2., B yarn and C yarn that middle level warp thread optional step obtains in 1., be used alternatingly, the D yarn that nexine warp thread optional step makes in 2., promptly the warp thread arrangement mode of this embodiment circulates successively for the order by " (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 8,2C16D2C/180 ".
4. weave: adopt top layer, middle level, nexine plain weave three-layer weave to weave, determine the parallel arrangement mode, draw pegging plan, determine method of gaiting and reed-in method, weave the formation grey cloth with Rapier looms.
The weft yarn arrangement mode circulates successively for the order by a top layer yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn, a middle level yarn, a nexine yarn.The A yarn that top layer weft yarn optional step makes in 2., B yarn and C yarn that middle level weft yarn optional step obtains in 1., be used alternatingly, the D yarn that nexine weft yarn optional step makes in 2., promptly the weft yarn arrangement mode of this embodiment circulates successively for the order by " (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 8,2C16D2C/180 ".
Adopt prior art, according to the shape of the tartan plaid type of pre-preparation, draw pegging plan in conjunction with the characteristics of three-layer weave structure, as shown in Figure 1,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12 represent one page heddle (heald) respectively among the figure.
Select for use the following method of gaiting to gait: (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10) * 16, (11.11.12.12) * 5.
Select for use following reed-in method to carry out denting: with porter is the reed of 118 reeds/10cm, 5/reed, last machine through close be 590/10cm.
Adopt Rapier looms to weave.When weaving with the flat 105mm that highly is made as of combining of the 3rd, 5,8,10 page of heddle (heald), all the other pages heddle (heald) combine the flat 100mm that highly is made as, differentiation combine flat height, can better clear opening, avoid the generation of float.Last machine filling density is 510/10cm, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is 320 latitudes/min.
5. back arrangement: the grey cloth after will weaving is typing earlier, keeps preventing thread laying through the straight flat grid of latitude; Adopt the mode of open washing to wash out the worsted fabric soft hand feeling, again through baking, operation such as decatizing must have stereovision third dimension, three-dimensional plentiful (3.5 ± 0.2cm) * (3.5 ± 0.2cm) the tartan plaid type worsted fabrics of flower type.
Embodiment 2
A kind of strip flower type worsted fabric, comprise three layers on top layer, middle level, nexine: the top layer filling yarn is made as the A yarn for the twine of one 8.8tex wool yarns and one 3.2tex mulberry silk, and the plying twist of A yarn is 150T
tThe middle level filling yarn is two kinds, and a kind of is 6.5tex spun silk * 2, is made as the B yarn, and another kind is 6.5tex metallized thread * 2, is made as the C yarn; The nexine filling yarn is the twine of two strands of 11.2tex wools and cashmere blended yarn, is made as the A yarn, and the plying twist of D yarn is 98T
t
With embodiment 1, A yarn and D yarn are the preparation gained, and B yarn and C yarn are that gained is bought in market.
The operating procedure of this worsted fabric manufacture method and embodiment 1 are the variation of some technological parameters together, and the technological parameter of variation is as follows:
Warp thread arrangement mode (one is followed bad): (1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D) * 4,2C8D2C/92;
Weft yarn arrangement mode (circulation): 1A1B1D1B1D1A1B1D1C1D1A1C1D1B1D1A1B1D1B1D/20;
Pegging plan, as shown in Figure 2,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12 represent one page heddle (heald) respectively among the figure;
The method of gaiting: (1.2.3.4.5.6.7.8.9.10) * 8, (11.11.12.12) * 3;
Reed-in method: with porter is the reed of 124 reeds/10cm, 5/reed, last machine through close be 620/10cm;
The comprehensive flat of the 3rd, 5,8,10 page of heddle (heald) highly is 110mm when weaving, and the comprehensive flat of all the other pages heddle (heald) highly is 106mm, and last machine filling density is 540/10cm, and the loom speed of a motor vehicle is 300 latitudes/min.
According to the operating procedure of embodiment 1, select above technological parameter for use, must have stereovision third dimension, the three-dimensional plentiful 1.5 ± 0.2cm strip flower type worsted fabric of flower type.
The above embodiment of the present invention is can not be used to limit the present invention to explanation of the present invention, and implication suitable with claims of the present invention and any change in the scope all should be thought to be included in the scope of claims.