CN104726986A - Special regenerated cellulose short fiber high-simulation silk yarn, fabric and production method of yarn - Google Patents
Special regenerated cellulose short fiber high-simulation silk yarn, fabric and production method of yarn Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses special regenerated cellulose short fiber high-simulation silk yarn. The yarn is designed to be regenerated short fiber ultra-strong twist yarn, the yarn twist coefficient reaches 1.8 to 2.5 times that of common twist yarn, and through a pre-twisting production process, the yarn with concentric conical spiral lines as a spatial main structure is formed. The invention further provides fabric woven from the yarn. The ratio of warp to weft and the varieties of the yarn are matched, and the procedures of batched warping, sizing, drafting, weaving and the like are adopted. The produced high-simulation silk (crepe) fabric is vivid in fabric style and elegant in cockling crinkle, the moisture absorption and breathability are superior to those of chemical fiber filament simulation crepe fabric, and the requirements of people for new fashion of summer clothing are met.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like (crape) with specialty yarn, and with the fabric of this yarn production; The invention still further relates to the production method that a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre produces high Silk-Like (crape) specialty yarn and fabric, belong to textiles field of textiles.
Background technology
Silk-Like fabric is for silk fabric, and General Proper silk fabrics weaving raw material used refers to silk, comprises mulberry silk, tussah silk, ricinus silk, cassava silkwormsilk etc.; Silk-Like fabric weaving raw material used is the long filament in chemical fibre, comprises polyamide fibre, terylene, the ultrafine wire of viscose and shaped silk; The silk fabric kind that silk fabric shows shape according to fabric tissue, graticule combination, processing technology and silk fabric face divides 14 large classes; Wherein silk crepe is a very important large class, is application plain weave or its hetero-organization, through or latitude add heavy twist, or longitude and latitude all adds heavy twist, the remorse and whippy fabric in obvious crape, segmentation have real silk crepe de chine, real silk tall its, the green crape of real silk, real silk be along winding.
As everyone knows, silk fabric quality soft smooth, feel is soft, slim and graceful, and pattern is rich and varied, wears cool and comfortable, and being mainly used as shirt in summer, nightwear, one-piece dress fabric and scarf etc., is the textiles that people extremely favor; But true silk products is very expensive, and limits throughput, in order to meet consumers in general's demand, Silk-Like fabric arises at the historic moment, and Silk-Like fabric weaving raw material used is the long filament in chemical fibre: the ultrafine wire of polyamide fibre, terylene, viscose and shaped silk.The present invention studies the performance of regenerated cellulose staple fibre, the characteristic of real silk crepe de chine fabric and institutional framework thereof and formation basic theory, carry out the design of regenerated cellulose staple fibre silk-like fabric specialty yarn and pilot production, successfully produce a kind of high Silk-Like (crape) fabric specialty yarn newly.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to provide a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like fabric specialty yarn and spins true silk fabric (crape) fabric with the height of this yarn production.
For solving the problem, the technical solution used in the present invention is:
A kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn, its feature is: described yarn is twisted by staple fibre and formed, this spun staple yam twist factor is 1.8 times ~ 2.5 times of general common yarn twist factor, is a kind of superpower twisted yarn, has " Z sth. made by twisting " and " S sth. made by twisting " two kinds.
Further, described staple fibre has three alternative conditions: (1) nature is renewable can the short fiber of cellulose of natural degradation, comprises viscose and the various modified fibres based on viscose, or weaving cellulose modal, or Lycoell fiber-like series staple fibre; (2) fibre number is generally 0.5dex, 0.8dtex, 1.1dtex, 1.33dex; (3) meeting under condition (1), (2), fiber quality softness, surface must have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent;
According to demand, adopt pure spinning or the blended yarn of any two kinds or any two or more fibers wherein.
Present invention also offers a kind of preparation method of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn, step is mainly the even moisture equilibrium at dry side of fiber bale breaking, opening picking rolling, to comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, to head drafting, two draftings, to rove, to spun yarn, to winder six steps, its innovative point is: described spun yarn step increases the pre-twisting process of superpower sth. made by twisting; Described winder step increases influence of winding tension regulable control technique.
Further, described superpower pre-twisting process is: Yarn twisting 1/2 place between front roller and twizzle starts pre-twisting, is formed in superpower pre-twisting area, front roller spinning triangular zone; Simultaneously to twist speed and winding twisting area in advance, to twist velocity ratio be that the speed of 1 ﹒ 05 ~ 1 ﹒ 2:1 is twisted for pre-twist triangle zone and winding two, twisting area, pre-twisting area fiber produces tangent direction friction afterturn, the twisting of transmitting from bottom to top, is formed with the yarn of concentric conical spiral for main body structure.
Further, described winder step increases pretension Controlling Technology and is: above automatic winder scissors supporting plate, add influence of winding tension regulate, yarn pretension strength of adjustment can regulate with torque spring, and the side force adding to yarn is 3 ~ 10cN.
Present invention also offers a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn and weave crepe de Chine fabric, alternately weave primarily of warp thread, weft yarn and form, it is characterized in that: described weft yarn is that superpower twist yarn: Z twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn 2 latitude, S twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn 2 latitude, circulates in " Z sth. made by twisting ", " S sth. made by twisting " interval; Wherein " S sth. made by twisting " twist per unit ratio " Z sth. made by twisting " twist per unit high 30 is twisted with the fingers ∕ rice ~ 40 and is twisted with the fingers ∕ rice, its warp thread common twist yarn or low moment of torsion yarn, weave 1/1.
Further, described through yarn number number >=13.1tex, then with low moment of torsion yarn, design that this yarn twist factor is common yarn twist factor 85%, to increase the draping property of high Silk-Like fabric.
Further, described through yarn number number < 13.1tex, with selecting common twist yarn.
Present invention also offers the technique that a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn weaves crepe de Chine fabric, its step be batch warping, sizing, gait, gas of disputing is knitted, perching, plaiting, packing seven step, its innovative point is: step is as follows:
A, weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin adopts the low flashes vapor dead twist technique of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, through test selection process, the dead twist technological parameter of this yarn is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese loads in still-be evacuated to 400Pa after, water is heated to 65 DEG C and is produced water at low temperature steam yarn steamings, after insulation yarn steaming time 15min in negative pressure kettle, heat to 78 DEG C again, after being evacuated to 500Pa, insulation 25min, moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
B, warping process, speed of beaming is 450 m ∕ min ~ 500m ∕ min;
C, sizing operation, due to the low moment of torsion yarn of this design warp thread, starching according to " strengthen coating, reduce filoplume, enhancing, guarantor stretch " requirement, adopt converted starch be main body, be aided with part acrylic acid class and minute quantity PVA slurry, coatedly take into account with infiltration, each district tension adjustment is reasonable, strict control elongation of wetting is: percentage elongation ﹤ 1%, speed of a motor vehicle 55m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 "; pH value 7-8; temperature 90 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%;
D, routine are gaited operation;
E, weaving process, the two jet air-jet loom of ZAX-N-2C, the speed of a motor vehicle 680 r ∕ min ~ 710r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z " that weft yarn adopts twists with the fingers cheese and " S " twists with the fingers cheese two kinds of bobbin fixed positions, do not allow random change, weft yarn is strictly by 2 " Z sth. made by twisting ", the circulation of 2 " S sth. made by twisting " interval; The main knitting technology of loom: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1200N, only yarn pin angle 60 ° ~ 260 °, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.26 ~ 0.28MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.36 ~ 0.38MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °;
F, other: arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
Present invention also offers a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn weaves along winding crepe shell fabric, alternately weave primarily of warp thread, weft yarn and form, its innovative point is: described weft yarn is that the Z that the present invention spins twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn, the common twist yarn that warp thread the present invention fiber used is imitated, weave 1/1.。
Present invention also offers a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn and weave technique along winding crepe shell fabric, its step is batch warping, sizing, gait, gas of disputing is knitted, perching, plaiting, packing seven step, its innovative point is: step is as follows:
A, weft yarn bobbin adopt the low flashes vapor dead twist equipment and process of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, dead twist technological parameter is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese loads in still-be evacuated to 420Pa after, water is heated and produced the water at low temperature steam yarn steaming insulation yarn steaming time to 65 DEG C in negative pressure kettle is 15min, heat to 75 DEG C again, be evacuated to 530Pa, insulation 25min, moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
B warping process: speed of beaming is 400 m ∕ min ~ 450m ∕ min;
C sizing operation: speed of a motor vehicle 50m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 ", temperature 92 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9.5%, regain 9.5%; All the other are with embodiment 3;
D gaits operation: strictly operate when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing.
The two jet air-jet loom of e weaving process: ZAX-N, speed of a motor vehicle 690r ∕ min ~ 720 r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z sth. made by twisting " superpower sth. made by twisting special yarn that weft yarn adopts, loom knitting technology: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60 ~ 260, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.24 ~ 0.26MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.34 ~ 0.36MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °.
Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
Beneficial effect of the present invention is as follows:
(1) a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like (crape) fabric specialty yarn of the present invention's success development & production, this yarn has superpower sth. made by twisting feature, with this yarn production height Silk-Like (crape) fabric, Fabric Style is true to nature, the same with real silk fabric, crape face wrinkle is graceful, present quiet and tastefully laid out pearly luster, soft, the elegant and high resilience of feel, sucting wet air permeability is better than chemical-fibres filaments Silk crepe shell fabric, conformality is better than silk crepe fabric, meets the demand of the new fashion of people's dress ornament in summer;
(2) the present invention's regenerated cellulose staple fibre is raw material, preferably three conditions: one, be necessary for renewable can the staple fibre with green, ecology, environmental protection characteristic of natural degradation, comprise the serial staple fibre such as viscose (and taking viscose glue as the cellulose fibre-(3) described with yarn innovative point of various transformations of carrier), weaving cellulose modal, silkworm protein fiber (surface is the skin-core structure fiber for cellulose fibre in pupa albumen), Lycoell fiber, Lay bamboo fibre, purely to spin, two or more fiber blend; Two, fiber must have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent in soft, the surface of quality; Three, fibre number is generally 1 ﹒ 1dex ,≤1 ﹒ 33dtex, the < 1dtex of particular/special requirement; Regenerated cellulose staple fibre specialty yarn production Silk-Like (crape) effect all met by these three conditions is true to nature, strong contraction be rich in after creasing gloss as real silk, high resilience and soft, take the elegant and moisture absorption of pendency and breathe freely, high Silk crepe fabric silk style is true to nature, material environment friendly, renewable, meet environmental requirement;
(3) the present invention is while providing a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like fabric specialty yarn, in order to produce these products, has used superpower pre-twisting process, pretension Controlling Technology; Make yarn of the present invention except fiber characteristics, also there is superpower sth. made by twisting feature, design twist factor reaches 1.8 ~ 2.5 times of common yarn, greatly exceed critical twist factor, (be different from general tight twist yarn, its design twist factor of general tight twist yarn is no more than 1.5 times of common yarn, general only about critical twist factor value).
(4) the present invention is when providing a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre specialty yarn and fabric, and superpower twist yarn bobbin used have employed the low flashes vapor dead twist technique of heating of negative pressure and sets twist to superpower twist yarn; Make to weave production can carry out smoothly, be conducive to economize energy simultaneously.
Detailed description of the invention
Elaborate below in conjunction with the technical scheme of specific embodiment to invention.
Embodiment 1
Design is produced one regenerated cellulose staple fibre and is produced high Silk-Like (crape) with extraordinary
19.5tex weft yarn: spin Z twist yarn and S twist yarn respectively, design twist factor Z twist yarn 750(170 sth. made by twisting/10cm), S twist yarn design twist factor 768(174 sth. made by twisting/10cm),
Raw material: soft silk fiber: 1.33dtex × 38mm.
Process route:
The even package of soft silk fiber-FA002A type griping cotton machine-SFA035 type mixed cotton slitter-FA106C type opener-SFA161 type vibrating cotton box-A076F type lapper-FA321A type carding machine-TMFD81 type drawing frame (head also)-TMFD81L type autoleveller draw frame (two also)-TJFA458 type Speed frames-FA507B type fine spining machine (installing superpower pre-twisting apparatus additional)-ORION automatic winder (installing pretension control device additional).
Technological parameter, production method
Cotton cleaning process, the environment bale breaking soft silk fiber being placed in 65%-70% is placed and is carried out moisture equilibrium at dry side in 24 hours
Blowing adopts short route, grabs cotton Beater Speed 750r/min, mixed cotton slitter three Beater Speed 430r/min, 530r/min, 630r/min, comprehensive Beater Speed 780r/min, blowing temperature: 22 DEG C-25 DEG C, relative humidity: 65%-70%, quantitative 396g/m done by lap;
Carding step, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning licker-in rotating speed 680r/min, cylinder rotating speed 320r/min, doffing speed 22r/min; AT5605 × 05611P pin cloth selected by licker-in, and Bearded-needle knitted cloth selects AC2025 × 1605P pin cloth, and MCH42P pin cloth selected by cover plate, and doffer selects AD4030BR × 20290 pin cloth; Weight of card sliver 18g/5m cotton knot controlling is within 2/gram; USTER strip dry CV value 4.6%;
Mixing in doubling step, drafting speed of a motor vehicle 300m/min; Two also do quantitative 17.6g/5m; Four downforce rod drawing-offs on three; Before and after roller pressure volume power successively: 24KN, 40KN, 6KN-pressure bar, 40KN, 32KN, to ensure enough grasping forces; Roller gauge 7 × 14; Head total draft multiple is less than number of doubling, back zone drafting multiple 1.8 times, two and back zone drafting multiple 1.28 times, USTER strip dry CV value 2.8%;
Roving Frames, ingot speed 850 r/min, roller gauge 11mm × 28mm × 40mm, back area draft 1.2 times, twist factor 78, quantitative 5g/10m done by rove; USTER strip dry CV value 4.5%;
Spinning process, yarn roller (d=25) spaces 19 × 35, back area draft 1.2 times, ingot speed 13500r/min, and use soft elasticity roller, third gear is pressurizeed: 140/100/120, Z twist yarn twist factor 750, S twist yarn twist factor 768, test determines that steady production, high-quality and high efficiency ingot speed is for 13500r/min, guarantee yarn twist CV value≤4.5%, simultaneously, in order to spin special yarn, install superpower pre-twisting apparatus (the former patent No. 200910161586 additional, for producing the method and apparatus of bending false twisting on ring spun yarn line, existing innovative technology adopts this device to realize technique of the present invention), twisting element is positioned at 1/2 place between front roller and twizzle, superpower pre-twisting apparatus twisting speed twists velocity ratio with winding twisting area: 1 ﹒ 05 ~ 1 ﹒ 2:1, spun yarn is formed in twisting process, superpower pre-twisting area and spindle in front roller spinning triangular zone, rings, two, winding twisting area that steel traveler is formed is twisted simultaneously, spinning can be carried out smoothly, twisting is transmitted rapidly and evenly, simultaneously due to the effect of superpower pre-twisting apparatus, fiber is under superpower pre-twisting moment loading, twist triangle zone is shortened, the initial stage twisting of fiber is different from general ring ingot twisting, but create strong tangent direction friction afterturn effect, and the twisting of transmitting from bottom to top, the space structure of yarn changes, formed with the yarn of concentric conical spiral for main body structure, be different from common ring spun yarn and common tight twist yarn,
Winding procedure, automatic winding, because superpower sth. made by twisting special yarn tension force instantaneous variation when winder unwinding is variable, causes winding tension unstable, fresh idea flower tail during cone yarn forming; Affect winder efficiency and winder quality, in order to overcome the above problems, (this device is my company's utility model patent to have developed yarn pretension adjustment control, application number 201520187366.4): above automatic winder scissors supporting plate, install yarn pretension adjustment control additional, yarn pretension strength of adjustment torque spring regulates, and the side force adding to yarn is 3 ~ 10cN.The big ups and downs of tension force during to reduce superpower twist yarn unwinding and to reel, solve the fresh idea flower tail quality problems in winder shaping, reach tube quality standard; The grid of pretension adjustment control has the twist simultaneously and drives stepless action; Winder speed 1200m/min.
Yarn quality:
Single thread ultimate strength (cN): 210cN, USTER strip dry CV value (cv%): 10.8%.
Embodiment 2
Design is produced a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre and is produced high Silk-Like (crape) with extraordinary
9.8tex weft yarn: spin Z twist yarn and S twist yarn respectively; Z twist yarn design twist factor 750, (240 sth. made by twisting/10cm); S twist yarn design twist factor 764, (244 sth. made by twisting/10cm);
Raw material is viscose (1): 1.1dtxe × 38mm;
(2) Lay bamboo fibre: 1.33dtxe × 38mm;
Viscose 85%, Lay bamboo fibre 15% blending.
Process route
Blowing, viscose 85%+ Lay bamboo fibre 15% uniform intervals package-FA002A type griping cotton machine-SFA035 type mixed cotton slitter-FA025 type multi-mixer-FA106C type opener-SFA161 type vibrating cotton box-A076F type lapper-FA321A type carding machine-TMFD81 type drawing frame (head is also)-TMFD81L type autoleveller draw frame (two also)-TJFA458 type Speed frames-FA507B type fine spining machine (installing superpower pre-twisting apparatus additional)-ORION automatic winder (installing pretension control device additional).
Technological parameter, production method
Cotton cleaning process, Lay bamboo fibre, viscose need the abundant moisture equilibrium at dry sides of bale breaking under the environment of relative humidity 65%-70%; The present embodiment is different from embodiment 1, mainly two kinds of raw materials adopt Cotton blending in hopper, owing to adopting Cotton blending in hopper, (1) the arrangement of the bale of cotton in bale plucker two kinds of fiber qualities are spaced by 85%/15% ratio uniform, (2) increase multi-mixer after mixed cotton slitter in process route; Other technological parameter is with embodiment 1;
Carding step, comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning licker-in rotating speed 680r/min, cylinder rotating speed 320r/min, doffing speed 22r/min; Weight of card sliver 18g/5m cotton knot controlling is within 2/gram; USTER strip dry CV value 4.6%; Other technological parameter is with embodiment 1;
Mixing in doubling step, Double Drawing also closes, and quantitative 14.6g/5m done by two draftings; Drafting speed of a motor vehicle 300m/min; USTER strip dry CV value 3.2%; Other technological parameter is with embodiment 1;
Roving Frames, quantitative 4.1g/10m done by rove, twist factor 83; Roving Frames, ingot speed 850 r/min, roller gauge 11mm × 28mm × 40mm, back area draft 1.2 times, twist factor 83, quantitative 4.1g/10m, USTER strip dry CV value 4.8% done by rove;
Spinning process, yarn roller (d=25) spaces 19 × 35, back area draft 1.2 times, uses soft elasticity roller, and third gear is pressurizeed: 140/100/120, Z twist yarn twist factor 750, S twist yarn twist factor 766; Test determines that steady production, high-quality and high efficiency ingot speed is for 13000r/min; Require as strict as possible and manage twisting winding device, guaranteeing twist CV value≤4.5%; Meanwhile, in order to spin special yarn, install superpower pre-twisting apparatus (technological parameter is with embodiment 1) additional, fibre space structure has changed, and is formed with the yarn of concentric conical spiral for main body structure, is different from common ring spun yarn and common tight twist yarn;
Automatic winder winding speed 1150m/min, installs yarn pretension adjustment control additional above automatic winder scissors supporting plate, and effect and effect and embodiment 1 are together.
Yarn quality:
Single thread ultimate strength (cN): 122, USTER strip dry CV value (cv%): 12.4%.
Embodiment 3
A kind of high Silk crepe de Chine fabric is produced in design: 170cm, 13.1tex × 19.5tex 362/10cm × 220/10cm, weave 1/1; Weft yarn: Z twists with the fingers, 170 sth. made by twisting/10cm; S twists with the fingers, 174 sth. made by twisting/10cm; 2 " Z sth. made by twisting ", the circulation of 2 " S sth. made by twisting " interval.
The low moment of torsion yarn of viscose glue R13.1tex selected by warp thread, and yarn is this enterprise spinning, and fine spining machine installs additional low moment of torsion spinning apparatus (patent No. 200910161586), and feature is this yarn twist factor of design is 85% of common twist yarn twist factor; The general common R13.1tex twist should be 105 sth. made by twisting/10cm, and low moment of torsion yarn is 90 sth. made by twisting/10cm, and object is the drapability increasing fabric;
Process route
Soft silk fiber 1.33dtex × 38mm height Silk-Like (crape) that weft yarn the present invention produces is with extraordinary weft yarn 19.5tex Z twist yarn and S twist yarn, design twist factor: Z twist yarn 750(170 sth. made by twisting/10cm), S twist yarn design twist factor 768(174 sth. made by twisting/10cm);
Require Z twist yarn and S twist yarn twist CV value≤4.5%
(1) weft preparing: the low flashes vapor dead twist of heating of weft yarn bobbin negative pressure
(2) weaving process flow process: ASGA221(180) the type beam warper-GA333 type Sizing machines-G177 type machine of gaiting-ZAX-N disputes gas loom-GA801 type cloth inspecting machine-G841 type folding machine-A75.2 type baling press.
Technological parameter, production method
Weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin adopts the low flashes vapor dead twist technique of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, through test selection process, the dead twist technological parameter of this yarn is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese loads in still-be evacuated to 400Pa after, water is heated to 65 DEG C and is produced water at low temperature steam yarn steamings, after insulation yarn steaming 15min in negative pressure kettle, heat to 78 DEG C again, after vacuum to 500Pa, insulation 25min, moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
Warping process, product warping three is even: even tension, arrangement evenly, winding evenly, especially even tension is related to the style and features of the quality such as fabrics cloth cover lines is clear, needs exquisite adjustment tensioner, improves the uniformity of tension force; Need clean comprehensively all yarn paths of warping machines and eliminate burr simultaneously, break end with producing with the strength loss reduced in yarn warping process, and suitably reduce speed of beaming 500m ∕ min.
Sizing operation, due to the low moment of torsion yarn of this design warp thread, starching according to " strengthen coating, reduce filoplume, enhancing, guarantor stretch " requirement, adopt converted starch be main body, be aided with part acrylic acid class and minute quantity PVA slurry, coatedly take into account with infiltration, each district tension adjustment is reasonable, strict control is wet extends (percentage elongation ﹤ 1%), speed of a motor vehicle 55m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 "; pH value 7-8; temperature 90 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%
To gait operation, strictly operate when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing.
Weaving process, the two jet air-jet loom of ZAX-N-2C, speed of a motor vehicle 710r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z " that weft yarn adopts twists with the fingers cheese and " S " twists with the fingers cheese two kinds of bobbin fixed positions, do not allow random change, weft yarn is strictly by 2 " Z sth. made by twisting ", the circulation of 2 " S sth. made by twisting " interval; The main knitting technology of loom: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1200N, only yarn pin angle 60 ° ~ 260 °, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.26 ~ 0.28MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.36 ~ 0.38MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °.
Quality inspection:
Warp-wise ultimate strength (N) 335, broadwise ultimate strength (N) 234;
Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
Embodiment 4
A kind of high silk-like crepon georgette fabric is produced in design: 165cm 9.8tex × 9.8tex 354/10cm × 267.5/10cm, weave 1/1; Warp thread is common " Z sth. made by twisting " yarn, 126 sth. made by twisting/10cm, and raw material is viscose (1.1dtxe × 38mm); Weft yarn " Z sth. made by twisting " superpower twist yarn, design twist factor 750, (240 sth. made by twisting/10cm), the raw material of weft yarn is the superpower sth. made by twisting special yarn (viscose: 1.1dtxe × 38mm of embodiments of the invention viscose 85/ Lay bamboo fibre 15 blending 9.8tex, Lay bamboo fibre: 1.33dtxe × 38mm), filling twist CV value≤4%.
Process route
(1) weft preparing: the low flashes vapor dead twist of heating of weft yarn bobbin negative pressure
(2) weaving process flow process: ASGA221(180) the type beam warper-GA333 type Sizing machines-G177 type machine of gaiting-ZAX-N disputes gas loom-GA801 type cloth inspecting machine-G841 type folding machine-A752 type baling press.
Technological parameter, production method
Weft yarn bobbin adopts the low flashes vapor dead twist equipment and process of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, and dead twist technological parameter is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese to load in still-be evacuated to 420Pa-water heat in negative pressure kettle produce water at low temperature steam yarn steamings to 65 DEG C (insulation 15min)-heating to 75 DEG C (vacuum is to 530Pa) be incubated 25min again)-moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
Warping process: reduce speed of beaming 400m ∕ min; All the other are with embodiment 3;
Sizing operation: speed of a motor vehicle 50m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 ", temperature 92 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9.5%, regain 9.5%; All the other are with embodiment 3;
To gait operation: strictly operate when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing.
The two jet air-jet loom of weaving process: ZAX-N, speed of a motor vehicle 690r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z sth. made by twisting " superpower sth. made by twisting special yarn that weft yarn adopts, loom knitting technology: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60 ~ 260, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.24 ~ 0.26MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.34 ~ 0.36MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °.
Quality inspection:
Warp-wise ultimate strength (N) 229, broadwise ultimate strength (N) 146;
Arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
Claims (10)
1. a regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn, its feature is: described yarn is twisted by staple fibre and formed, this spun staple yam twist factor is 1.8 times ~ 2.5 times of general common yarn twist factor, is a kind of superpower twisted yarn, has " Z sth. made by twisting " and " S sth. made by twisting " two kinds.
2. a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn according to claim 1, its feature is that described staple fibre has three alternative conditions: (1) nature is renewable can the short fiber of cellulose of natural degradation, comprise viscose and the various modified fibres based on viscose, or weaving cellulose modal, or Lycoell fiber-like series staple fibre; (2) fibre number is generally 0.5dex, 0.8dtex, 1.1dtex, 1.33dex; (3) meeting under condition (1), (2), fiber quality softness, surface must have quiet and tastefully laid out and soft pearlescent;
According to demand, adopt pure spinning or the blended yarn of any two kinds or any two or more fibers wherein.
3. the preparation method of a regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn, step is mainly the even moisture equilibrium at dry side of fiber bale breaking, opening picking rolling, to comb and parallel cotton fibers prior to spinning, to head drafting, two draftings, to rove, to spun yarn, to winder six steps, it is characterized in that: described spun yarn step increases the pre-twisting process of superpower sth. made by twisting; Described winder step increases influence of winding tension regulable control technique.
4. the preparation method of a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: described superpower pre-twisting process is: Yarn twisting 1/2 place between front roller and twizzle starts pre-twisting, be formed in superpower pre-twisting area, front roller spinning triangular zone; Simultaneously to twist speed and winding twisting area in advance, to twist velocity ratio be that the speed of 1 ﹒ 05 ~ 1 ﹒ 2:1 is twisted for pre-twist triangle zone and winding two, twisting area, pre-twisting area fiber produces tangent direction friction afterturn, the twisting of transmitting from bottom to top, is formed with the yarn of concentric conical spiral for main body structure.
5. the preparation method of a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn according to claim 3, it is characterized in that: described winder step increases pretension Controlling Technology and is: above automatic winder scissors supporting plate, add influence of winding tension regulate, yarn pretension strength of adjustment torque spring regulates, and the side force adding to yarn is 3 ~ 10cN.
6. a regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn weaves crepe de Chine fabric, alternately weave primarily of warp thread, weft yarn and form, it is characterized in that: described weft yarn is that superpower twist yarn: Z twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn 2 latitude, and S twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn 2 latitude, circulates in " Z sth. made by twisting ", " S sth. made by twisting " interval; Wherein " S sth. made by twisting " twist per unit ratio " Z sth. made by twisting " twist per unit high 30 is twisted with the fingers ∕ rice ~ 40 and is twisted with the fingers ∕ rice, its warp thread common twist yarn or low moment of torsion yarn, weave 1/1.
7. a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn according to claim 6 weaves crepe de Chine fabric, it is characterized in that: through yarn number number >=13.1tex, then with low moment of torsion yarn, design that this yarn twist factor is common yarn twist factor 85%, to increase the draping property of high Silk-Like fabric.
8. a kind of regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn according to claim 6 weaves crepe de Chine fabric, it is characterized in that: through yarn number number < 13.1tex, with selecting common twist yarn.
9. regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn weaves a technique for crepe de Chine fabric, its step is batch warping, sizing, gait, gas of disputing is knitted, perching, plaiting, packing seven step, it is characterized in that: step is as follows:
A, weft preparing, weft yarn bobbin adopts the low flashes vapor dead twist technique of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, through test selection process, the dead twist technological parameter of this yarn is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese loads in still-be evacuated to 400Pa after, water is heated to 65 DEG C and is produced water at low temperature steam yarn steamings, after insulation yarn steaming time 15min in negative pressure kettle, heat to 78 DEG C again, after being evacuated to 500Pa, insulation 25min, moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
B, warping process, speed of beaming is 450 m ∕ min ~ 500m ∕ min;
C, sizing operation, due to the low moment of torsion yarn of this design warp thread, starching according to " strengthen coating, reduce filoplume, enhancing, guarantor stretch " requirement, adopt converted starch be main body, be aided with part acrylic acid class and minute quantity PVA slurry, coatedly take into account with infiltration, each district tension adjustment is reasonable, strict control elongation of wetting is: percentage elongation ﹤ 1%, speed of a motor vehicle 55m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 "; pH value 7-8; temperature 90 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9%, regain 9.5%;
D, routine are gaited operation;
E, weaving process, the two jet air-jet loom of ZAX-N-2C, the speed of a motor vehicle 680 r ∕ min ~ 710r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z " that weft yarn adopts twists with the fingers cheese and " S " twists with the fingers cheese two kinds of bobbin fixed positions, do not allow random change, weft yarn is strictly by 2 " Z sth. made by twisting ", the circulation of 2 " S sth. made by twisting " interval; The main knitting technology of loom: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1200N, only yarn pin angle 60 ° ~ 260 °, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.26 ~ 0.28MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.36 ~ 0.38MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °;
F, other: arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
10. a regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn is weaved along winding crepe shell fabric, alternately weave primarily of warp thread, weft yarn and form, it is characterized in that: described weft yarn is that the Z that the present invention spins twists with the fingers superpower twist yarn, the common twist yarn that warp thread the present invention fiber used is imitated, weave 1/1; Regenerated cellulose staple fibre height Silk-Like special effect yarn weaves the technique along winding crepe shell fabric, its step is batch warping, sizing, gait, gas of disputing is knitted, perching, plaiting, packing seven step, it is characterized in that: step is as follows:
A, weft yarn bobbin adopt the low flashes vapor dead twist equipment and process of heating of negative pressure to set twist to superpower twist yarn, dead twist technological parameter is defined as: superpower sth. made by twisting cheese loads in still-be evacuated to 420Pa after, water is heated and produced the water at low temperature steam yarn steaming insulation yarn steaming time to 65 DEG C in negative pressure kettle is 15min, heat to 75 DEG C again, be evacuated to 530Pa, insulation 25min, moving yarn, to go out still for subsequent use;
B warping process: speed of beaming is 400 m ∕ min ~ 450m ∕ min;
C sizing operation: speed of a motor vehicle 50m ∕ about min, rear cured, slurry viscosity 7 ", temperature 92 DEG C, the rate of sizing 9.5%, regain 9.5%; All the other are with embodiment 3;
D gaits operation: strictly operate when gaiting, prevent from misdrawing, the two jet air-jet loom of e weaving process: ZAX-N, speed of a motor vehicle 690r ∕ min ~ 720 r ∕ min, operation dividing sinker is strictly regulated evenly without cross-direction yarns during upper axle, " Z sth. made by twisting " superpower sth. made by twisting special yarn that weft yarn adopts, loom knitting technology: opening time 310 °/290 °, warp tension 1170N, only yarn pin angle 60 ~ 260, main jet angle 66 ° ~ 170 °, main jet pressure 0.24 ~ 0.26MPa, auxiliary spray angle degree 66 ° ~ 160 °, 86 ° ~ 170 °, 106 ° ~ 190 °, 136 ° ~ 210 °, 160 ° ~ 240 °, 180 ° ~ 270 °, the auxiliary power of spraying 0.34 ~ 0.36MPa, weft yarn angle of arrival 216 ° ~ 222 °, arranging process, perching, plaiting, Cheng Bao.
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