CN104334151B - Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute - Google Patents
Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute Download PDFInfo
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- CN104334151B CN104334151B CN201380026950.5A CN201380026950A CN104334151B CN 104334151 B CN104334151 B CN 104334151B CN 201380026950 A CN201380026950 A CN 201380026950A CN 104334151 B CN104334151 B CN 104334151B
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- polyglycerolpolyrici
- oleate
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 46
- 210000003491 Skin Anatomy 0.000 title abstract description 15
- 229940099259 Vaseline Drugs 0.000 title abstract description 14
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229940049964 Oleate Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-M oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-M 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-M (Z,12R)-12-hydroxyoctadec-9-enoate Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-M 0.000 claims description 5
- 229940066675 Ricinoleate Drugs 0.000 claims description 5
- 241001362551 Samba Species 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000003252 repetitive Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229940114072 12-hydroxystearic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Axona Chemical group CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- DCXXMTOCNZCJGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Stearin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC DCXXMTOCNZCJGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 230000002335 preservative Effects 0.000 description 9
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 9
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000000523 sample Substances 0.000 description 5
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N all-trans-retinol Chemical compound OC\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-OVSJKPMPSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 229930003231 vitamins Natural products 0.000 description 4
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 3
- 229940088594 Vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 3
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000004020 luminiscence type Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229960003471 retinol Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 230000000475 sunscreen Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 150000003722 vitamin derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 1-hexadecanoyl-2-(9Z,12Z-octadecadienoyl)-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940067606 Lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palmitic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-GKUQOKNUSA-N Ricinoleic acid Natural products CCCCCC[C@H](O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-GKUQOKNUSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-BOOMUCAASA-N Vitamin A Natural products OC/C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(\C)/C=C/C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C FPIPGXGPPPQFEQ-BOOMUCAASA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940045997 Vitamin A Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003750 conditioning Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000003384 imaging method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000002932 luster Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000003605 opacifier Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 2
- -1 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229960003656 ricinoleic acid Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 2
- XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc monoxide Chemical compound [Zn]=O XLOMVQKBTHCTTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical class CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-bis(12-hydroxyoctadecanoyloxy)propyl 12-hydroxyoctadecanoate Chemical group CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)CCCCCC WCOXQTXVACYMLM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940090248 4-hydroxybenzoic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N Avobenzone Chemical compound C1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)CC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(C)(C)C)C=C1 XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RWCCWEUUXYIKHB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzophenone Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 RWCCWEUUXYIKHB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-CEFNRUSXSA-N D-α-tocopherylacetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C ZAKOWWREFLAJOT-CEFNRUSXSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N DL-Panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)C(O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000002615 Epidermis Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000000245 Forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 241001597008 Nomeidae Species 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl methoxycinnamate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940048845 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021314 Palmitic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004698 Polyethylene (PE) Substances 0.000 description 1
- QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylparaben Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QELSKZZBTMNZEB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N Riboflavin Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)CN1C=2C=C(C)C(C)=CC=2N=C2C1=NC(=O)NC2=O AUNGANRZJHBGPY-SCRDCRAPSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-N Ricinoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-QJWNTBNXSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019485 Safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 210000000582 Semen Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000004288 Sodium dehydroacetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940057400 TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 Tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940029983 VITAMINS Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229930003427 Vitamin E Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 Vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940021016 Vitamin IV solution additives Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003082 abrasive agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001452 alpha-Tocopherol Acetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940053195 antiepileptics Hydantoin derivatives Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940027983 antiseptics and disinfectants Quaternary ammonium compounds Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000003289 ascorbyl group Chemical group [H]O[C@@]([H])(C([H])([H])O*)[C@@]1([H])OC(=O)C(O*)=C1O* 0.000 description 1
- 229960005193 avobenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 244000052616 bacterial pathogens Species 0.000 description 1
- 230000004888 barrier function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005284 basis set Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003796 beauty Effects 0.000 description 1
- YAVVGPBYBUYPSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzene;oxygen Chemical compound [O].C1=CC=CC=C1 YAVVGPBYBUYPSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960004217 benzyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019445 benzyl alcohol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N biotin Chemical compound N1C(=O)N[C@@H]2[C@H](CCCCC(=O)O)SC[C@@H]21 YBJHBAHKTGYVGT-ZKWXMUAHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000020958 biotin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011616 biotin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002685 biotin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000001733 carboxylic acid esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000969 carrier Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012141 concentrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009508 confectionery Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000000875 corresponding Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010192 crystallographic characterization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004332 deodorization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000009792 diffusion process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003792 electrolyte Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003379 elimination reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000002194 fatty esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000035876 healing Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001469 hydantoins Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ZCTXEAQXZGPWFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N imidurea Chemical compound O=C1NC(=O)N(CO)C1NC(=O)NCNC(=O)NC1C(=O)NC(=O)N1CO ZCTXEAQXZGPWFG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N methanol Chemical group OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960002216 methylparaben Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006011 modification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N oxygen Chemical compound O=O MYMOFIZGZYHOMD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000002265 prevention Effects 0.000 description 1
- XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M propionate Chemical compound CCC([O-])=O XBDQKXXYIPTUBI-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000010232 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004405 propyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003856 quaternary ammonium compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000020944 retinol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011607 retinol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003813 safflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000005713 safflower oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000036559 skin health Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940079839 sodium dehydroacetate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019259 sodium dehydroacetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-M stearate Chemical class CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherols Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229940093633 tricaprin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011716 vitamin B2 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011726 vitamin B6 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003697 vitamin B6 derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003700 vitamin C derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003712 vitamin E derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Abstract
The present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition containing triglyceride, Oleum Ricini, glycerol and polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.Said composition is the plant origin substitute of vaseline, and has been found that it is a kind of outstanding moisture-keeping composition and can give the good skinfeel characteristic of skin and gloss.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plant base vaseline analogies, it is attractive in appearance and give skin health that it achieves the skinfeel of improvement
Gloss.
Background of invention
Commercially availableBoard vaseline is a kind of occlusive material.When being applied in skin, this material can prevent
Moisture evaporates.The reservation of moisture can promote healing and control under cold climate conditions occur chap/peel.
Regrettably, vaseline can bring greasy feeling to preparation.Additionally, when being applied in skin, containing the thing of vaseline
Matter is difficult to preparation to provide good gloss.
It is basis set that the U.S. Patent application of Publication No. 2007/0224142 Al (Swaile et al.) describes castor oil hydrogenated
Compound is as vaseline substitute.These compositionss are to be formulated as the deodorizer of aqueous system or anhydrous systems, can be effectively
The stench that prevention or elimination cause because of perspiration.In said composition in addition to castor oil hydrogenated, also include thickening agent or structuring
Agent such as 12-hydroxy stearic acid and derivant thereof, alcohol liquid-carrier such as glycerol and polyglycereol, and usual substantial amounts of water.Although report
Claim said composition to can be used for deodorization, but there is no indication that the skinfeel attribute compared with the preparation containing vaseline and gloss aspect
Any improvement.
Summary of the invention
The present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition, comprising:
The triglyceride of (i) 10-60 weight %;
(ii) Oleum Ricini of 5-40 weight %;
(iii) glycerol of 10-50 weight %;With
(iv) polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate of 0.5-10 weight %.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
It has now been found that plant based composition can give skin good gloss and skinfeel is attractive in appearance.These compositionss require sweet
Oil three esters, glycerol, Oleum Ricini and the combination of polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.
First component of the present invention is triglyceride.Typical triglyceride includes caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cortex cocois radicis
Oil, Oleum Helianthi, safflower oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, olive oil and their mixture.Be particularly useful is respectively caprylic/capric glycerol
Three esters and Oleum Cocois.
The amount of triglyceride can be 10-60 weight % of compositions, preferably 20-50 weight %, most preferably 30-45 weight
Amount %.
Another component of the present invention is Oleum Ricini, particularly castor oil hydrogenated, Castor oil or a combination thereof.Oleum Ricini
Amount can be 5-40 weight % of compositions, preferably 10-30 weight %, most preferably 15-25 weight %.For the present invention,
Oleum Ricini is not intended as triglyceride.
Another useful component is glycerol (glycerin), also referred to as glycerol (glycerol).The amount of this material can
Think 10-50 weight % of compositions, preferably 20-40 weight %, most preferably 25-35 weight %.
Another component is polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.The number of glycerol repetitive can be 2-20, preferably 4-10,
Good about 6 repetitives.Term " ricinoleate " herein includes single ricinoleate and the polyricinoleate of glycerol.
When ricinoleate is polymerized form, the number of single ricinoleic acid ester units can be 2-20, specifically for 2-5.Most preferably
Be by Barnet Products Corp. sell trade mark be the poly-castor of the entitled polyglycereol of Hexaglyn PR-156 and INCI-6
Polyglycereol-6 polyricinoleate of fiber crops carboxylic ester.The amount of this type of material can be 0.5-10 weight % of compositions, is preferably
1-8 weight %, most preferably 4-6 weight %.
Can be advantageously present fatty acid material, it is selected from trihydroxy stearin, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and combinations thereof.When
In the presence of, the amount of this type of material can be 0.1-15 weight % of compositions, preferably 0.5-10 weight %, more preferably 2-8 weight
Amount %, most preferably 3-6 weight %.
Favorably but not necessarily, said composition is anhydrous.Term " anhydrous " refers to the water amount of compositions
For 0-5 weight %, preferably 0-2 weight %, most preferably 0 weight %.
Another useful but additional component of the present invention is emulsifying agent such as lecithin.The amount of lecithin can be compositions
0.01-2 weight %, preferably 0.1-1 weight %, most preferably 0.3-0.8 weight %.
The compositions of the present invention may also include sunscreen actives.Particularly preferably following material: with ParsolThe ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate buied, with ParsolThe avobenzone buied and also referred to as oxygen
The BP-3 of benzophenone.Can use inorganic sunscreens active substance such as superfine titanic oxide, zinc oxide, polyethylene and various its
Its polymer.When it is present, the amount of sunscreen is usually 0.1-30 weight %, preferably 2-20 weight %, most preferably 4-10 weight
Amount %.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can desirably add preservative to prevent potential harmful microbe from growing.
The Arrcostab that traditional preservatives is P-hydroxybenzoic acid that the present composition is suitable for.Other preservative newly come into operation include
Hydantoin derivatives, propionate and multiple quaternary ammonium compounds.The chemists of cosmetic field know suitable preservative,
And be generally selected them and test and product stability is provided meeting preservative challenge.Especially preferred preservative has benzene oxygen second
Alcohol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzylalcohol.The selection of preservative
It is considered as incompatibility possible between preservative and other compositions in the purposes of compositions and emulsion.Preservative preferably with
The amount of 0.01-2 weight % of compositions uses.
The compositions of the present invention can also contain vitamin.Exemplary water soluble vitamins has nicotiamide, vitamin B2、
Vitamin B6, vitamin C and biotin.Useful water-insoluble vitamin includes vitamin A (retinol), vitamin A palm fibre
Palmitic acid acid esters, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin E acetate and DL-Panthenol.When it is present,
Vitamin total amount in the composition can be 0.001-10 weight %, preferably 0.01-1 weight %, most preferably 0.1-0.5 weight
Amount %.
The compositions of the present invention can also comprise coloring agent, aromatic, opacifier (opacifiers) and grinding agent
(abrasives).Can be 0.05-5 weight % each of in these materials, preferably 0.1-3 weight %.
Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention can show the SAMBA visual appearance system as utilized Reich-Robbins to evaluate
Unified test obtains average gloss value, and it can be 3-15, or 3-10, or 6-10, selectively 7-10.
Term " comprises " expression and is not limited to any key element stated subsequently, but contain unspecific have main or secondary
The key element of functional importance.In other words, step, key element or the option listed need not limit.No matter when use word " bag
Include " or " having ", these terms are intended to suitable with " including " defined above.
Except in embodiment and comparative example or separately explicitly indicating that, this specification representing, all numerals of material amount should be managed
Solve as modifying with word " about ".
It should be noted that when any scope of prescribed concentration or content, any specific upper limit of concentration and any spy
Fixed concentration or content lower limit are associated.
The following examples can explain embodiment of the present invention more fully.Except as otherwise noted, at this with appended
Claim in all numbers, percent and the ratio mentioned all be by weight.
Embodiment 1
Carry out a series of clinical experiment and evaluate the compositions of the present invention compared with standard vaseline.55 tested
Person participates in clinical moisture-keeping efficacy test.This research includes conditioning phase (conditioning phase) and subsequently of five days by a definite date
The process phase (traetment phase) of two weeks.To the effect of experimenter by Skicon, Corneometer and TEWL instrument/
Method measures.Additionally, experts' evaluation has carried out the assessment of vision degree of drying.
Table I gives the formula being applied to experimenter.Table II describes the performance test knot compared with vaseline standard substance
Really.
SkiCon value is by SkiCon 200 Instrument measuring.Surveyed by conductance evaluation (micro Siemens) at skin surface
Amount moistening effect.Fathom about less than 15 μm.Experimenter is required by standardSoap prewashing.After 30 minutes, use
SkiCon 200 apparatus measures subjects skin.Then the sample of 0.05 gram of experimental products is applied in 5 × 5 centimetres of interior forearm mark
Note region.Measure after latter two hour of initial management smears.
Corneometry is the method measuring moisture content of skin.Owing to skin can be as electrolyte, this technical measurement skin
Capacitance also assesses the horny layer that 10-20 micron is thick.The method utilizes the Corneometer 825 with hand-held probe to measure
Instrument (Courage-Khazaka Electronics).
The another kind of technology for clinical research is to measure to run off (TEWL) via epidermal surface through transepidermal water.TEWL
Value is the moisture appraisal measuring and be skin lock outlet capacity via the bleed rate of skin.This is that skin beauty water barrier function can
The index that can damage.Because generally being occurred by the Passive diffusion via epidermis via the water loss of skin, TEWL value is more
High expression water loss is the most, damages increase accordingly.TEWL value uses Tewameter 300 measuring instrument (Germany Courage-
Khazaka Electronics) measure.
Table I formula
Table II the performance test results compared with vaseline
√ represent more preferable
Represent at least more preferable at a time point
As zero represents that all time points are all.
For SkiCon and Corneometer apparatus measures, three samples are significantly better than that vaseline at all time points.
Vision degree of drying and TEWL are assessed, finds that three samples are at least good as vaseline.
Embodiment 2
Having prepared a series of formula to evaluate health aesthstic (physical aesthetics), especially skinfeel is light
Sliding or coarse.The component of formula is listed in Table III A/B, and most of name according to its INCI is listed.Aesthetic results is shown in equally
Table III A/B.
Table III A
Table III B
According to the result of Table III A/B report, find that only formula 1 and 2 is aesthetically acceptable.Formula 3 eliminates pungent
The amount of Oleum Ricini is also increased to three times by acid/tricaprin, and its effect is worse than the effect of formula 1.Formula 7,8 and 9 is studied
The effect of different polyglycereol fatty esters.Wherein polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglycereol-3 dioleate and polyglycereol-
6 five stearates instead of polyglycereol-6 ricinoleate respectively.Due to roughness reason, containing two isostearic acids of polyglycereol
The aesthetic effect of the formula of ester, dioleate and five stearic acid ester derivative it is found that and is worse than containing polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate
Formula.
Embodiment 3
The luster performance of 8 formula of report in assessment Table III A/B.
Methodology
Gloss is for describing the state of luminescence or the term of character by reflection light.Gloss limits outside the vision of object
See.It has been generally acknowledged that gloss depends on three below major parameter:
The amount of (a) reflection light;The light of reflection is the most glossy;
Distribution/the width of (b) reflection light;For same amount of reflection light, the light of reflection is the most clear more concentrates and more has light
Pool;
C observation background that () reflects;Background is the darkest, and reflection contrast is the biggest, the most glossy.
Include substantially commenting based on mentioned above three about gloss at the several method quantifying human perception gloss
The Reich-Robbins method of appraisal degree.Actually used formula is:
Wherein: S represents the total amount (integration) of specular light
D represents the total amount (integration) of diffused light
θ1/2Represent the photodistributed width of direct reflection.
Use N.lefaudeux, N.Lechocinski, P.Clemenceau, S.Breugnot, " New Luster
Formula for the Characterization of Hair Tresses Using Polarization Imaging ",
Third Annual Conference on Applied Hair Science, outside the SAMBA vision described in JIUYUE, 2008
See systematic survey luminescence visual appearance.
SAMBA system is polarization imaging device, and the physics of its specular light and diffused light of achieving Imaged samples divides
From.The recordable following three types of image of this device:
The image of the visible normal intensity of human eye.
The mirror image of polarized light.This polarized light only shows the reflection of sample surfaces.These reflections are the former of visually-perceptible gloss
Cause.
The diffused light image of non-polarized light.This non-polarized light only shows the light that sample scatters.It is the background face of sample
Color.
Measuring samples is prepared by being placed on black heavyweight building paper (Pacon Corp) by the film that 1mm is thick.Paper
It is installed in subsequently on cylinder and takes image by SAMBA system.Formula number is corresponding to those in Table III A/B and each
Composition.LReich-RobbinsAverage is shown in Table IV.
Table IV
Formula number | Gloss (Reich-Robbins) average | Paired comparison Tukey-Cramer HSD* |
1 | 9.19 | A |
2 | 7.39 | A |
7 | 5.10 | B |
8 | 3.61 | B/C |
5 | 2.10 | C/D |
6 | 1.89 | C/D |
4 | 1.74 | D |
3 | 0.85 | D |
9 | 0.95 | D |
The most not relevant to same letter level has significant difference.
Formula 1 and 2 shows optimal gloss.As formula 7,8 and 9 replaces polyglycereol ricinoleic acid with other polyglycereol
During ester, compared with formula 1 and 2, vision luminescence reduces.During as there is not caprylic/capric triglyceride in formula 3-5, gloss is also
Reduce.
Although describing the present invention in detail with reference to its specific embodiments, but those skilled in the art being obvious
It is to make various changes and modifications the most wherein.
Claims (11)
1. cosmetic composition, it comprises:
The triglyceride of (i) 10-60 weight %;
(ii) Oleum Ricini of 5-40 weight %;
(iii) glycerol of 10-50 weight %;With
(iv) polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate of 0.5-10 weight %;
Wherein said triglyceride is caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or Oleum Cocois.
2. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate has 2-20 glycerol repetitive.
3. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate has 4-10 glycerol repetitive.
4. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate is polyglycereol-6 ricinoleate.
Compositions described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, it is anhydrous.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, its comprise further 0.1-15 weight % selected from three hydroxyls
The material of base stearin, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and combinations thereof.
7. the cosmetic composition described in claim 6, wherein said material exists with the amount of 3-6 weight %.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate is with 1-8 weight
Amount % exists.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said glycerol exists with 20-40 weight %.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said triglyceride is caprylic/capric glycerol three
Ester.
Cosmetic composition described in 11. aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said compositions shows and utilizes Reich-
The average gloss value of the 3-15 that the SAMBA visual appearance system that Robbins evaluates records.
Priority Applications (1)
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CN201610959311.XA CN106309169B (en) | 2012-05-22 | 2013-04-15 | Vegetable-based skin care compositions comprising petrolatum substitutes |
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US13/477337 | 2012-05-22 | ||
US13/477,337 US8524211B1 (en) | 2012-05-22 | 2012-05-22 | Vegetable sourced petrolatum cosmetic |
US13/477,337 | 2012-05-22 | ||
PCT/EP2013/057830 WO2013174576A2 (en) | 2012-05-22 | 2013-04-15 | Vegetable sourced petrolatum |
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