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CN104334151B - Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute - Google Patents

Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104334151B
CN104334151B CN201380026950.5A CN201380026950A CN104334151B CN 104334151 B CN104334151 B CN 104334151B CN 201380026950 A CN201380026950 A CN 201380026950A CN 104334151 B CN104334151 B CN 104334151B
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Prior art keywords
weight
cosmetic composition
glycerol
polyglycerolpolyrici
oleate
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CN201380026950.5A
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CN104334151A (en
Inventor
L·M·拉菲
M·C·切尼
B·J·多布科夫斯基
V·舒布拉马尼安
汪倩
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Unilever NV
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Unilever NV
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Priority claimed from US13/477,337 external-priority patent/US8524211B1/en
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Priority to CN201610959311.XA priority Critical patent/CN106309169B/en
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Abstract

The present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition containing triglyceride, Oleum Ricini, glycerol and polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.Said composition is the plant origin substitute of vaseline, and has been found that it is a kind of outstanding moisture-keeping composition and can give the good skinfeel characteristic of skin and gloss.

Description

Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of plant base vaseline analogies, it is attractive in appearance and give skin health that it achieves the skinfeel of improvement Gloss.
Background of invention
Commercially availableBoard vaseline is a kind of occlusive material.When being applied in skin, this material can prevent Moisture evaporates.The reservation of moisture can promote healing and control under cold climate conditions occur chap/peel.
Regrettably, vaseline can bring greasy feeling to preparation.Additionally, when being applied in skin, containing the thing of vaseline Matter is difficult to preparation to provide good gloss.
It is basis set that the U.S. Patent application of Publication No. 2007/0224142 Al (Swaile et al.) describes castor oil hydrogenated Compound is as vaseline substitute.These compositionss are to be formulated as the deodorizer of aqueous system or anhydrous systems, can be effectively The stench that prevention or elimination cause because of perspiration.In said composition in addition to castor oil hydrogenated, also include thickening agent or structuring Agent such as 12-hydroxy stearic acid and derivant thereof, alcohol liquid-carrier such as glycerol and polyglycereol, and usual substantial amounts of water.Although report Claim said composition to can be used for deodorization, but there is no indication that the skinfeel attribute compared with the preparation containing vaseline and gloss aspect Any improvement.
Summary of the invention
The present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition, comprising:
The triglyceride of (i) 10-60 weight %;
(ii) Oleum Ricini of 5-40 weight %;
(iii) glycerol of 10-50 weight %;With
(iv) polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate of 0.5-10 weight %.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
It has now been found that plant based composition can give skin good gloss and skinfeel is attractive in appearance.These compositionss require sweet Oil three esters, glycerol, Oleum Ricini and the combination of polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.
First component of the present invention is triglyceride.Typical triglyceride includes caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cortex cocois radicis Oil, Oleum Helianthi, safflower oil, Oleum Gossypii semen, olive oil and their mixture.Be particularly useful is respectively caprylic/capric glycerol Three esters and Oleum Cocois.
The amount of triglyceride can be 10-60 weight % of compositions, preferably 20-50 weight %, most preferably 30-45 weight Amount %.
Another component of the present invention is Oleum Ricini, particularly castor oil hydrogenated, Castor oil or a combination thereof.Oleum Ricini Amount can be 5-40 weight % of compositions, preferably 10-30 weight %, most preferably 15-25 weight %.For the present invention, Oleum Ricini is not intended as triglyceride.
Another useful component is glycerol (glycerin), also referred to as glycerol (glycerol).The amount of this material can Think 10-50 weight % of compositions, preferably 20-40 weight %, most preferably 25-35 weight %.
Another component is polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate.The number of glycerol repetitive can be 2-20, preferably 4-10, Good about 6 repetitives.Term " ricinoleate " herein includes single ricinoleate and the polyricinoleate of glycerol. When ricinoleate is polymerized form, the number of single ricinoleic acid ester units can be 2-20, specifically for 2-5.Most preferably Be by Barnet Products Corp. sell trade mark be the poly-castor of the entitled polyglycereol of Hexaglyn PR-156 and INCI-6 Polyglycereol-6 polyricinoleate of fiber crops carboxylic ester.The amount of this type of material can be 0.5-10 weight % of compositions, is preferably 1-8 weight %, most preferably 4-6 weight %.
Can be advantageously present fatty acid material, it is selected from trihydroxy stearin, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and combinations thereof.When In the presence of, the amount of this type of material can be 0.1-15 weight % of compositions, preferably 0.5-10 weight %, more preferably 2-8 weight Amount %, most preferably 3-6 weight %.
Favorably but not necessarily, said composition is anhydrous.Term " anhydrous " refers to the water amount of compositions For 0-5 weight %, preferably 0-2 weight %, most preferably 0 weight %.
Another useful but additional component of the present invention is emulsifying agent such as lecithin.The amount of lecithin can be compositions 0.01-2 weight %, preferably 0.1-1 weight %, most preferably 0.3-0.8 weight %.
The compositions of the present invention may also include sunscreen actives.Particularly preferably following material: with ParsolThe ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate buied, with ParsolThe avobenzone buied and also referred to as oxygen The BP-3 of benzophenone.Can use inorganic sunscreens active substance such as superfine titanic oxide, zinc oxide, polyethylene and various its Its polymer.When it is present, the amount of sunscreen is usually 0.1-30 weight %, preferably 2-20 weight %, most preferably 4-10 weight Amount %.
The cosmetic composition of the present invention can desirably add preservative to prevent potential harmful microbe from growing. The Arrcostab that traditional preservatives is P-hydroxybenzoic acid that the present composition is suitable for.Other preservative newly come into operation include Hydantoin derivatives, propionate and multiple quaternary ammonium compounds.The chemists of cosmetic field know suitable preservative, And be generally selected them and test and product stability is provided meeting preservative challenge.Especially preferred preservative has benzene oxygen second Alcohol, methyl parahydroxybenzoate, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, imidazolidinyl urea, sodium dehydroacetate and benzylalcohol.The selection of preservative It is considered as incompatibility possible between preservative and other compositions in the purposes of compositions and emulsion.Preservative preferably with The amount of 0.01-2 weight % of compositions uses.
The compositions of the present invention can also contain vitamin.Exemplary water soluble vitamins has nicotiamide, vitamin B2、 Vitamin B6, vitamin C and biotin.Useful water-insoluble vitamin includes vitamin A (retinol), vitamin A palm fibre Palmitic acid acid esters, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin E acetate and DL-Panthenol.When it is present, Vitamin total amount in the composition can be 0.001-10 weight %, preferably 0.01-1 weight %, most preferably 0.1-0.5 weight Amount %.
The compositions of the present invention can also comprise coloring agent, aromatic, opacifier (opacifiers) and grinding agent (abrasives).Can be 0.05-5 weight % each of in these materials, preferably 0.1-3 weight %.
Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention can show the SAMBA visual appearance system as utilized Reich-Robbins to evaluate Unified test obtains average gloss value, and it can be 3-15, or 3-10, or 6-10, selectively 7-10.
Term " comprises " expression and is not limited to any key element stated subsequently, but contain unspecific have main or secondary The key element of functional importance.In other words, step, key element or the option listed need not limit.No matter when use word " bag Include " or " having ", these terms are intended to suitable with " including " defined above.
Except in embodiment and comparative example or separately explicitly indicating that, this specification representing, all numerals of material amount should be managed Solve as modifying with word " about ".
It should be noted that when any scope of prescribed concentration or content, any specific upper limit of concentration and any spy Fixed concentration or content lower limit are associated.
The following examples can explain embodiment of the present invention more fully.Except as otherwise noted, at this with appended Claim in all numbers, percent and the ratio mentioned all be by weight.
Embodiment 1
Carry out a series of clinical experiment and evaluate the compositions of the present invention compared with standard vaseline.55 tested Person participates in clinical moisture-keeping efficacy test.This research includes conditioning phase (conditioning phase) and subsequently of five days by a definite date The process phase (traetment phase) of two weeks.To the effect of experimenter by Skicon, Corneometer and TEWL instrument/ Method measures.Additionally, experts' evaluation has carried out the assessment of vision degree of drying.
Table I gives the formula being applied to experimenter.Table II describes the performance test knot compared with vaseline standard substance Really.
SkiCon value is by SkiCon 200 Instrument measuring.Surveyed by conductance evaluation (micro Siemens) at skin surface Amount moistening effect.Fathom about less than 15 μm.Experimenter is required by standardSoap prewashing.After 30 minutes, use SkiCon 200 apparatus measures subjects skin.Then the sample of 0.05 gram of experimental products is applied in 5 × 5 centimetres of interior forearm mark Note region.Measure after latter two hour of initial management smears.
Corneometry is the method measuring moisture content of skin.Owing to skin can be as electrolyte, this technical measurement skin Capacitance also assesses the horny layer that 10-20 micron is thick.The method utilizes the Corneometer 825 with hand-held probe to measure Instrument (Courage-Khazaka Electronics).
The another kind of technology for clinical research is to measure to run off (TEWL) via epidermal surface through transepidermal water.TEWL Value is the moisture appraisal measuring and be skin lock outlet capacity via the bleed rate of skin.This is that skin beauty water barrier function can The index that can damage.Because generally being occurred by the Passive diffusion via epidermis via the water loss of skin, TEWL value is more High expression water loss is the most, damages increase accordingly.TEWL value uses Tewameter 300 measuring instrument (Germany Courage- Khazaka Electronics) measure.
Table I formula
Table II the performance test results compared with vaseline
√ represent more preferable
Represent at least more preferable at a time point
As zero represents that all time points are all.
For SkiCon and Corneometer apparatus measures, three samples are significantly better than that vaseline at all time points. Vision degree of drying and TEWL are assessed, finds that three samples are at least good as vaseline.
Embodiment 2
Having prepared a series of formula to evaluate health aesthstic (physical aesthetics), especially skinfeel is light Sliding or coarse.The component of formula is listed in Table III A/B, and most of name according to its INCI is listed.Aesthetic results is shown in equally Table III A/B.
Table III A
Table III B
According to the result of Table III A/B report, find that only formula 1 and 2 is aesthetically acceptable.Formula 3 eliminates pungent The amount of Oleum Ricini is also increased to three times by acid/tricaprin, and its effect is worse than the effect of formula 1.Formula 7,8 and 9 is studied The effect of different polyglycereol fatty esters.Wherein polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglycereol-3 dioleate and polyglycereol- 6 five stearates instead of polyglycereol-6 ricinoleate respectively.Due to roughness reason, containing two isostearic acids of polyglycereol The aesthetic effect of the formula of ester, dioleate and five stearic acid ester derivative it is found that and is worse than containing polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate Formula.
Embodiment 3
The luster performance of 8 formula of report in assessment Table III A/B.
Methodology
Gloss is for describing the state of luminescence or the term of character by reflection light.Gloss limits outside the vision of object See.It has been generally acknowledged that gloss depends on three below major parameter:
The amount of (a) reflection light;The light of reflection is the most glossy;
Distribution/the width of (b) reflection light;For same amount of reflection light, the light of reflection is the most clear more concentrates and more has light Pool;
C observation background that () reflects;Background is the darkest, and reflection contrast is the biggest, the most glossy.
Include substantially commenting based on mentioned above three about gloss at the several method quantifying human perception gloss The Reich-Robbins method of appraisal degree.Actually used formula is:
L Reich - Robbins = S D * θ 1 / 2
Wherein: S represents the total amount (integration) of specular light
D represents the total amount (integration) of diffused light
θ1/2Represent the photodistributed width of direct reflection.
Use N.lefaudeux, N.Lechocinski, P.Clemenceau, S.Breugnot, " New Luster Formula for the Characterization of Hair Tresses Using Polarization Imaging ", Third Annual Conference on Applied Hair Science, outside the SAMBA vision described in JIUYUE, 2008 See systematic survey luminescence visual appearance.
SAMBA system is polarization imaging device, and the physics of its specular light and diffused light of achieving Imaged samples divides From.The recordable following three types of image of this device:
The image of the visible normal intensity of human eye.
The mirror image of polarized light.This polarized light only shows the reflection of sample surfaces.These reflections are the former of visually-perceptible gloss Cause.
The diffused light image of non-polarized light.This non-polarized light only shows the light that sample scatters.It is the background face of sample Color.
Measuring samples is prepared by being placed on black heavyweight building paper (Pacon Corp) by the film that 1mm is thick.Paper It is installed in subsequently on cylinder and takes image by SAMBA system.Formula number is corresponding to those in Table III A/B and each Composition.LReich-RobbinsAverage is shown in Table IV.
Table IV
Formula number Gloss (Reich-Robbins) average Paired comparison Tukey-Cramer HSD*
1 9.19 A
2 7.39 A
7 5.10 B
8 3.61 B/C
5 2.10 C/D
6 1.89 C/D
4 1.74 D
3 0.85 D
9 0.95 D
The most not relevant to same letter level has significant difference.
Formula 1 and 2 shows optimal gloss.As formula 7,8 and 9 replaces polyglycereol ricinoleic acid with other polyglycereol During ester, compared with formula 1 and 2, vision luminescence reduces.During as there is not caprylic/capric triglyceride in formula 3-5, gloss is also Reduce.
Although describing the present invention in detail with reference to its specific embodiments, but those skilled in the art being obvious It is to make various changes and modifications the most wherein.

Claims (11)

1. cosmetic composition, it comprises:
The triglyceride of (i) 10-60 weight %;
(ii) Oleum Ricini of 5-40 weight %;
(iii) glycerol of 10-50 weight %;With
(iv) polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate of 0.5-10 weight %;
Wherein said triglyceride is caprylic/capric triglyceride and/or Oleum Cocois.
2. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate has 2-20 glycerol repetitive.
3. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate has 4-10 glycerol repetitive.
4. the compositions described in claim 1, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate is polyglycereol-6 ricinoleate.
Compositions described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, it is anhydrous.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, its comprise further 0.1-15 weight % selected from three hydroxyls The material of base stearin, 12-hydroxy stearic acid and combinations thereof.
7. the cosmetic composition described in claim 6, wherein said material exists with the amount of 3-6 weight %.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said polyglycerolpolyrici.oleate is with 1-8 weight Amount % exists.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said glycerol exists with 20-40 weight %.
Cosmetic composition described in the most aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said triglyceride is caprylic/capric glycerol three Ester.
Cosmetic composition described in 11. aforementioned any one of claim, wherein said compositions shows and utilizes Reich- The average gloss value of the 3-15 that the SAMBA visual appearance system that Robbins evaluates records.
CN201380026950.5A 2012-05-22 2013-04-15 Comprise the plant base skin care compositions of vaseline substitute Active CN104334151B (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201610959311.XA CN106309169B (en) 2012-05-22 2013-04-15 Vegetable-based skin care compositions comprising petrolatum substitutes

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US13/477337 2012-05-22
US13/477,337 US8524211B1 (en) 2012-05-22 2012-05-22 Vegetable sourced petrolatum cosmetic
US13/477,337 2012-05-22
PCT/EP2013/057830 WO2013174576A2 (en) 2012-05-22 2013-04-15 Vegetable sourced petrolatum

Related Child Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN201610959311.XA Division CN106309169B (en) 2012-05-22 2013-04-15 Vegetable-based skin care compositions comprising petrolatum substitutes

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN104334151A CN104334151A (en) 2015-02-04
CN104334151B true CN104334151B (en) 2016-11-30

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Patentee before: Netherlands Unilever Co.,Ltd.