BRPI0415157B1 - Synergistic skin whitening composition and use of a composition. - Google Patents
Synergistic skin whitening composition and use of a composition. Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- BRPI0415157B1 BRPI0415157B1 BRPI0415157-7A BRPI0415157A BRPI0415157B1 BR PI0415157 B1 BRPI0415157 B1 BR PI0415157B1 BR PI0415157 A BRPI0415157 A BR PI0415157A BR PI0415157 B1 BRPI0415157 B1 BR PI0415157B1
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Description
“COMPOSIÇÃO SINÉRGICA DE CLAREAMENTO DA PELE E USO DE UMA COMPOSIÇÃO” Campo da Invenção A presente invenção trata de uma composição sinérgica de clareamento da pele. A presente invenção trata particularmente de uma composição com uma combinação de ativos clareadores da pele apropriados para obter um clareamento aprimorado da pele.Field of the Invention The present invention is a synergistic skin lightening composition. The present invention particularly relates to a composition with a combination of skin whitening actives suitable for enhanced skin whitening.
Antecedentes da Invenção A melanina é um pigmento preto do cabelo e da pele e é sintetizada a partir da tirosina de aminoácidos por melanossomas. Os melanossomas são organelas encontradas nos melanócitos, um tipo de célula presente na junção entre a derme e a epiderme. A tirosina é ativada por uma enzima, a tirosinase, que é a etapa chave na melanogênese. Já foram elaborados diversos relatórios nos quais inibidores da tirosinase tais como a hidroquinona e seus derivados, o ácido kójico, os catecóis, as mercaptoaminas, os a/fa-hidróxi ácidos e outros foram utilizados em composições cosméticas para regular a pigmentação da pele. O documento IN 182012 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1994) divulga composições sinérgicas apropriadas para aplicação tópica na pele humana que compreendem ácidos dicarboxílicos em combinação com ácido ascórbico em carreadores comercialmente compatíveis. Elas mencionam também que, adicionalmente, outros agentes clareadores, tais como a niacinamida e/ou os protetores solares (inorgânicos e/ou orgânicos) também podem estar presentes. O uso dos a/fa-hidróxi ácidos em compostos cosméticos para conferir vários benefícios à pele tais como melhorar a textura da pele, aumentar sua maciez, firmeza e teor de umidade está descrito na patente US 5.658.580 (Channel Inc., 1997). A patente US 5.262.153 (Kabushiki, 1993) revela o ácido lático e seus derivados como agentes clareadores da pele úteis que agem por supressão da melanogênese pela inibição da formação da tirosinase.Background of the Invention Melanin is a black pigment in hair and skin and is synthesized from amino acid tyrosine by melanosomes. Melanosomes are organelles found in melanocytes, a type of cell present at the junction between the dermis and the epidermis. Tyrosine is activated by an enzyme, tyrosinase, which is the key step in melanogenesis. Several reports have been prepared in which tyrosinase inhibitors such as hydroquinone and its derivatives, kojic acid, catechols, mercaptoamines, α / fahydroxy acids and others have been used in cosmetic compositions to regulate skin pigmentation. IN 182012 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1994) discloses synergistic compositions suitable for topical application to human skin comprising dicarboxylic acids in combination with ascorbic acid in commercially compatible carriers. They also mention that additionally other bleaching agents such as niacinamide and / or sunscreens (inorganic and / or organic) may also be present. The use of α / fa-hydroxy acids in cosmetic compounds to impart various skin benefits such as improving skin texture, increasing softness, firmness and moisture content is described in US Patent 5,658,580 (Channel Inc., 1997). . US Patent 5,262,153 (Kabushiki, 1993) discloses lactic acid and its derivatives as useful skin bleaching agents that act by suppressing melanogenesis by inhibiting tyrosinase formation.
Nos melanossomas, a melanina é sintetizada (polimerizada) a partir dos monômeros e transferida para os queratinócitos vizinhos. Os queratinócitos dividem e diferenciam portanto transportam o melanossoma para a superfície da pele. A intensidade da cor da pele está diretamente relacionada com o número, o tamanho, o teor de melanina, a dispersão da melanina, a taxa de formação e migração/transferência dos melanossomas para os queratinócitos.In melanosomes, melanin is synthesized (polymerized) from the monomers and transferred to neighboring keratinocytes. Keratinocytes divide and differentiate and thus transport the melanosome to the surface of the skin. Skin color intensity is directly related to number, size, melanin content, melanin dispersion, rate of formation and migration / transfer from melanosomes to keratinocytes.
Outras abordagens referem-se ao uso de niacina/niacinamida ou outros agentes clareadores da pele que são considerados aptos a controlar a dispersão dos melanossomas ou inibir a tirosinase. O documento IN 144276 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1975) divulga a combinação de niacinamida e uma mistura apropriada de absorvedores UV que absorvem na faixa de 290 nm a 360 nm. O documento IN 169917 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1989) divulga o uso de um composto de silicone que melhora sinergicamente o benefício de clareamento da pele obtida pela combinação de niacinamida e protetores solares.Other approaches relate to the use of niacin / niacinamide or other skin bleaching agents that are considered to be able to control melanosome dispersion or inhibit tyrosinase. IN 144276 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1975) discloses the combination of niacinamide and an appropriate mixture of UV absorbers that absorb in the range of 290 nm to 360 nm. IN 169917 (Hindustan Lever Ltd., 1989) discloses the use of a silicone compound that synergistically improves the skin whitening benefit obtained by combining niacinamide and sunscreens.
Os protetores solares que são habitualmente utilizados nas composições de clareamento da pele mantêm a cor da pele evitando o escurecimento da pele devido à luz ultravioleta (UV). Os protetores solares são substâncias, que absorvem a luz ultravioleta incidente do comprimento de ondas que produz o bronzeamento e o escurecimento da pele. A vitamina B6, também chamada piridoxina está intimamente relacionada com substâncias hidrossolúveis, tais como o hidrocloreto de piridoxina, o piridoxal, e a piridoxamina, na forma e na função. A suplementação de piridoxina é utilizada para uma grande variedade de problemas cutâneos, que incluem a caspa, o eczema, a dermatite e a psoríase. Em seu componente ativo para algumas formulações antiidade, JP 04009325 (Sunstar Inc., 1992) divulga um cosmético para embelezamento e clareamento obtido pela mistura de cultura micelial de Ganoderma lucidum Karst. e/ou sua essência/extrato com um ou mais selecionados entre o ácido ascórbico, o retinol, a piridoxina, o ácido pantotênico, o tocoferol, seus sais e derivados como elemento ativo. JP 60188306 (Shiseido, 1985) divulga uma composição cosmética que compreende piridoxina ou um derivado em combinação com o ácido ascórbico para melhorar significativamente o efeito de clareamento da pele. US 5.833.998 (P&G, 1998) divulga composições tópicas para regular o aspecto oleoso e/ou brilhante da pele que compreende um ativo selecionado entre um ou mais compostos no grupo que compreende: niacinamida, piridoxina, pantenol, e ácido pantotênico, em um carreador comercialmente aceitável para o referido ativo.Sunscreens that are commonly used in skin lightening compositions maintain skin color by preventing darkening of the skin due to ultraviolet (UV) light. Sunscreens are substances that absorb incident wavelength ultraviolet light that produces tanning and darkening of the skin. Vitamin B6, also called pyridoxine, is closely related to water soluble substances, such as pyridoxine hydrochloride, pyridoxal, and pyridoxamine, in form and function. Pyridoxine supplementation is used for a wide variety of skin problems including dandruff, eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis. In its active ingredient for some anti-aging formulations, JP 04009325 (Sunstar Inc., 1992) discloses a beautifying and whitening cosmetic obtained by the Ganoderma lucidum Karst mycelial culture mixture. and / or its essence / extract with one or more selected from ascorbic acid, retinol, pyridoxine, pantothenic acid, tocopherol, their salts and derivatives as active element. JP 60188306 (Shiseido, 1985) discloses a cosmetic composition comprising pyridoxine or a derivative in combination with ascorbic acid to significantly improve the skin lightening effect. US 5,833,998 (P&G, 1998) discloses topical compositions for regulating the oily and / or shiny appearance of skin comprising an active ingredient selected from one or more compounds in the group comprising: niacinamide, pyridoxine, panthenol, and pantothenic acid in a commercially acceptable carrier for said asset.
Entretanto, o estado da técnica não ensina nenhuma composição cosmética sinérgica que compreenda vitamina B3, vitamina B6 e qualquer dos ácidos mono-, di- ou policarboxílicos ou fenólicos para obter um clareamento aprimorado ou a redução da pigmentação da pele.However, the prior art does not teach any synergistic cosmetic composition comprising vitamin B3, vitamin B6 and any of the mono-, di- or polycarboxylic or phenolic acids for enhanced lightening or reduction of skin pigmentation.
Um dos objetos da presente invenção consiste em fornecer uma composição cosmética sinérgica que compreende vitamina Ββ, vitamina B3 e qualquer um dos ácidos mono-, di- ou policarboxílicos ou fenólicos que possam clarear significativamente a pele.It is an object of the present invention to provide a synergistic cosmetic composition comprising vitamin β, vitamin B3 and any of the mono-, di- or polycarboxylic or phenolic acids that can significantly lighten the skin.
Outro objeto da presente invenção consiste em fornecer uma composição cosmética sinérgica que compreende vitamina Ββ, vitamina B3 e qualquer um dos ácidos mono-, di- ou policarboxílicos ou fenólicos que sejam úteis tanto para a pele normal quanto para a pele danificada pelos raios UV.Another object of the present invention is to provide a synergistic cosmetic composition comprising vitamin β, vitamin B3 and any of the mono-, di- or polycarboxylic or phenolic acids which are useful for both normal and UV-damaged skin.
As composições são também úteis no tratamento das sardas, da pele hiperpigmentada, da pele manchada, dos melasmas, dos colasmas, das manchas de idade, das olheiras, etc.The compositions are also useful in treating freckles, hyperpigmented skin, blemished skin, melasmas, colasmas, age spots, dark circles, etc.
Definição da Invenção De acordo com o primeiro aspecto da presente invenção, é fornecida uma composição sinérgica de clareamento da pele que compreende: (i) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina B6 ou seus derivados; (ii) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina B3 ou seus derivados; (iii) de 0,05 a 20% em peso de pelo menos um ácido orgânico selecionado a partir do grupo que consiste em ácidos monocarboxílicos com C1-C-16, ácidos dicarboxílicos, ácidos policarboxílicos, ácidos fenólicos, e seus ésteres/sais ou outros derivados; e (iv) de 0,1 a 10% em peso de pelo menos um protetor solar De acordo com um aspecto preferido da presente invenção, é fornecida uma composição sinérgica de clareamento da pele que compreende: (i) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina B6 ou seus derivados; (ii) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina B3 ou seus derivados; (iii) de 0,05 a 20% em peso de pelo menos um ácido orgânico selecionado a partir do grupo que consiste em ácidos monocarboxílicos com C1-C16, ácidos dicarboxílicos, ácidos policarboxílicos, ácidos fenólicos, e seus ésteres/sais ou outros derivados, e (iv) de 0,1 a 10 % em peso de pelo menos um protetor solar, e (v) um veículo cosmeticamente aceitável e/ou de 10 a 85% de um ativo detergente. É particularmente preferido que o veículo cosmeticamente aceitável compreenda de 0,1 a 25% em peso da composição de partículas sólidas assimétricas e um emulsificante aniônico, em que o pH da composição situa-se entre 3 e 11, preferencialmente entre 3 e 8 e mais preferencialmente ainda entre 3,5 e 6.Definition of the Invention In accordance with the first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a synergistic skin lightening composition comprising: (i) from 0.05 to 10% by weight of vitamin B6 or derivatives thereof; (ii) from 0.05 to 10% by weight of vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof; (iii) from 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one organic acid selected from the group consisting of C1-C-16 monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, phenolic acids, and their esters / salts or other derivatives; and (iv) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one sunscreen. In accordance with a preferred aspect of the present invention, a synergistic skin lightening composition is provided comprising: (i) from 0.05 to 10%. % by weight of vitamin B6 or its derivatives; (ii) from 0.05 to 10% by weight of vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof; (iii) 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one organic acid selected from the group consisting of C1-C16 monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, phenolic acids, and their esters / salts or other derivatives and (iv) from 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one sunscreen, and (v) a cosmetically acceptable carrier and / or from 10 to 85% of a detergent active. It is particularly preferred that the cosmetically acceptable carrier comprises from 0.1 to 25% by weight of the asymmetric solid particle composition and an anionic emulsifier, wherein the pH of the composition is between 3 and 11, preferably between 3 and 8 and more. preferably still between 3.5 and 6.
De acordo com mais um aspecto da presente invenção, é fornecida uma composição sinérgica para o clareamento da pele, tal que compreende: (i) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina Ββ ou seus derivados; (ii) de 0,05 a 10% em peso de vitamina B3 ou seus derivados; (iii) de 0,05 a 20% em peso de pelo menos um ácido orgânico selecionado no grupo que consiste de ácidos monocarboxílicos com Ci-Ci6, ácidos dicarboxílicos, ácidos policarboxílicos, ácidos fenólicos, e seus ésteres/sais ou outros derivados.According to a further aspect of the present invention, a synergistic skin lightening composition is provided, comprising: (i) from 0.05 to 10% by weight of vitamin β or derivatives thereof; (ii) from 0.05 to 10% by weight of vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof; (iii) from 0.05 to 20% by weight of at least one organic acid selected from the group consisting of C1 -C16 monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, polycarboxylic acids, phenolic acids, and their esters / salts or other derivatives.
Descrição Detalhada da Invenção De acordo com os aspectos essenciais da presente invenção, uma combinação de vitamina B6, vitamina B3 e pelo menos ácidos mono, di ou policarboxílicos ou fenólicos / seus ésteres / sais ou derivados confere à pele benefícios de clareamento aprimorado. A composição de acordo com a presente invenção pode ser formulada com produtos com enxágüe (“leave-on”) ou sem enxágüe. As composições sem enxágüe úteis na presente invenção podem ser feitas em uma grande variedade de formas de produtos. Tais formas podem incluir, sem porém se limitar a: loções, cremes, géis, bastões, sprays, lenços, máscaras faciais, ungüentos, pastas, espumas e cosméticos (por exemplo, maquilagem sólida, semi-sólida e líquida, inclusive bases para a pele). Tais tipos de produtos podem compreender vários tipos de carreadores, incluindo mas sem limitar-se a, soluções, emulsões (incluindo as emulsões água-em-óleo e óleo-em-água), géis, sólidos e lipossomas. Eles podem se apresentar em forma de produtos com enxágüe tais como barras de sabão, pós detergentes, flocos, líquidos, géis, etc. A composição da presente invenção pode ser também formulada como um pó de talco, talco líquido ou compacto.Detailed Description of the Invention In accordance with the essential aspects of the present invention, a combination of vitamin B6, vitamin B3 and at least mono, di or polycarboxylic or phenolic acids / their esters / salts or derivatives gives the skin improved whitening benefits. The composition according to the present invention may be formulated with leave-on or non-rinse products. The rinse free compositions useful in the present invention may be made in a wide variety of product forms. Such forms may include, but are not limited to: lotions, creams, gels, sticks, sprays, handkerchiefs, face masks, ointments, pastes, foams and cosmetics (for example, solid, semi-solid and liquid makeup, including bases for skin). Such product types may comprise various types of carriers including, but not limited to, solutions, emulsions (including water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsions), gels, solids and liposomes. They may come in the form of rinsing products such as soap bars, detergent powders, flakes, liquids, gels, etc. The composition of the present invention may also be formulated as a talcum powder, liquid or compact talcum powder.
Vitaminas para o Clareamento da Pele Constitui um aspecto essencial da presente invenção que a vitamina B6 ou seus derivados estejam presentes em combinação com a vitamina B3 ou seus derivados na composição de clareamento da pele da presente invenção. A vitamina B6, tal como definida no presente, refere-se à família de substâncias hidrossolúveis que compreendem o hidrocloreto de piridoxina, o piridoxal e a piridoxamina, que estão intimamente relacionados na forma e na função. A vitamina B6 está disponível como uma substância sintética e é também encontrada naturalmente em alimentos de origem animal e nos vegetais. Fígado, salmão, peixe, frango, presunto, ovos, carne de porco, carne de vaca, ervilhas secas, feijão, banana, abacate, melão, folhas de nabo, couve de Bruxelas, batata, batata doce, cenouras, ervilhas, grão de bico, levedo de cerveja, farelo de trigo, germe de trigo, rim, coração, melão-cantalupe, repolho, melaço de cana, e leite são algumas das fontes importantes de vitamina B6. É portanto possível escolher a vitamina B6 a partir de qualquer fonte conhecida que seja natural ou sintética ou de qualquer fonte disponível comercialmente.Skin Whitening Vitamins It is an essential aspect of the present invention that vitamin B6 or derivatives thereof are present in combination with vitamin B3 or derivatives thereof in the skin whitening composition of the present invention. Vitamin B6 as defined herein refers to the family of water soluble substances comprising pyridoxine hydrochloride, pyridoxal and pyridoxamine, which are closely related in form and function. Vitamin B6 is available as a synthetic substance and is also found naturally in animal foods and vegetables. Liver, Salmon, Fish, Chicken, Ham, Eggs, Pork, Beef, Split Peas, Beans, Bananas, Avocado, Melon, Turnip Leaves, Brussels Sprouts, Potato, Sweet Potato, Carrots, Peas, Grain Beak, brewer's yeast, wheat bran, wheat germ, kidney, heart, cantaloupe, cabbage, cane molasses, and milk are some of the important sources of vitamin B6. It is therefore possible to choose vitamin B6 from any known source that is natural or synthetic or from any commercially available source.
Outro componente essencial da composição é a niacinamida ou nicotinamida que constitui a forma biologicamente ativa da vitamina B3. Exemplos de derivados de compostos de vitamina B3 compreendem os ésteres de ácido nicotínico, inclusive os ésteres não-vasodilatadores de ácido nicotínico, os aminoácidos de nicotinila, os ésteres de álcool nicotinílico de ácidos carboxílicos, o A/-óxido de ácido nicotínico e o /V-óxido de niacinamida e suas misturas. A vitamina B6 é incorporada de 0,05 a 10% em peso da composição e está presente de preferência em uma quantidade de 0,1 a 5%, mais preferencialmente 0,5 a 2% em peso da composição cosmética. A vitamina B3 é incorporada de 0,05 a 10% em peso da composição e está presente de preferência em uma quantidade de 0,1 a 5% em peso, mais preferencialmente de 0,5 a 2% em peso da composição cosmética.Another essential component of the composition is niacinamide or nicotinamide which constitutes the biologically active form of vitamin B3. Examples of derivatives of vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl carboxylic acid esters, nicotinic acid A / -oxide and /. Niacinamide V-oxide and mixtures thereof. Vitamin B6 is incorporated from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the composition and is preferably present in an amount from 0.1 to 5%, more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition. Vitamin B3 is incorporated from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the composition and is preferably present in an amount from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight of the cosmetic composition.
Outras vitaminas para o clareamento da pele podem ser vantajosamente incluídas na composição a fim de conferir os efeitos sinérgicos de clareamento da pele. Entre tais vitaminas, pode-se citar a vitamina Bi2, a vitamina C, a vitamina E, a vitamina A, a vitamina D, a vitamina K, ou seus precursores/sais/ésteres/derivados. Misturas de tais vitaminas também podem ser utilizadas nas composições da presente invenção. A vitamina Bi2, a vitamina E e a vitamina C são especialmente preferidas. Ácidos Orgânicos Os ácidos orgânicos podem ser escolhidos entre os ácidos mono di, policarboxílicos ou fenólicos ou seus sais, ésteres ou derivados.Other skin lightening vitamins may advantageously be included in the composition to impart synergistic skin lightening effects. These vitamins include Vitamin B2, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Vitamin A, Vitamin D, Vitamin K, or their precursors / salts / esters / derivatives. Mixtures of such vitamins may also be used in the compositions of the present invention. Vitamin Bi2, vitamin E and vitamin C are especially preferred. Organic Acids Organic acids may be chosen from mono di, polycarboxylic or phenolic acids or their salts, esters or derivatives.
Os ácidos monocarboxílicos podem ser substituídos ou não-substituídos. Os ácidos monocarboxílicos possuem um comprimento de cadeia de até 16 (isto é, ácidos com C1-C16), de preferência até 14 (isto é, ácidos com C1-C14), é mais preferencialmente ainda até 12 (isto é, ácidos com C1-C12). Ácidos monocarboxílicos particularmente preferidos são o ácido ascórbico ou α-, β- ou poli-hidroxiácidos que compreendem o ácido glicólico, o ácido lático, o ácido 2-hidróxi-octanóico, o ácido salicílico, e/ou suas misturas. O ácido β-hidróxi-carboxílico preferido é o ácido láctico ou um de seus sais como o lactato de amônio. O ácido β-hidróxi-carboxílico particularmente preferido é o ácido salicílico.Monocarboxylic acids may be substituted or unsubstituted. Monocarboxylic acids have a chain length of up to 16 (i.e. C1-C16 acids), preferably up to 14 (i.e. C1-C14 acids), more preferably up to 12 (i.e. C1-C14 acids). -C12). Particularly preferred monocarboxylic acids are ascorbic acid or α-, β- or polyhydroxy acids comprising glycolic acid, lactic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, salicylic acid, and / or mixtures thereof. The preferred β-hydroxy carboxylic acid is lactic acid or one of its salts such as ammonium lactate. Particularly preferred β-hydroxy carboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
Os ácidos dicarboxílicos apropriados para a presente invenção são representados pela fórmula em que CxHy é opcionalmente substituído ex = 0a20ey = 0a 40. Os ácidos dicarboxílicos particularmente preferidos incluem o ácido azeláico, o ácido sebácico, o ácido oxálico, o ácido succínico e o ácido fumárico. Os ácidos policarboxílicos incluem, sem limitar-se a, os ácidos cítricos. O ácido orgânico pode também ser um ácido vitamínico como o ácido ascórbico, o ácido retinóico ou o ácido pantenóico. Os ácidos orgânicos também incluem os ácidos naturais como o ácido glicertenico e o ácido poliglicérico. Os ácidos de açúcares redutores e não-redutores também podem ser utilizados como ácido orgânico.Suitable dicarboxylic acids for the present invention are represented by the formula wherein CxHy is optionally substituted ex = 0a20ey = 0a 40. Particularly preferred dicarboxylic acids include azelaic acid, sebacic acid, oxalic acid, succinic acid and fumaric acid. . Polycarboxylic acids include, but are not limited to, citric acids. Organic acid may also be a vitaminic acid such as ascorbic acid, retinoic acid or pantenoic acid. Organic acids also include natural acids such as glycertenic acid and polyglyceric acid. Reducing and non-reducing sugar acids can also be used as organic acid.
Os ácidos fenólicos particularmente preferidos são selecionados entre o ácido ferúlico, o ácido salicílico e o ácido kójico.Particularly preferred phenolic acids are selected from ferulic acid, salicylic acid and kojic acid.
De preferência, os ácidos orgânicos da presente invenção são hidrossolúveis. Por “hidrossolúvel”, entende-se que o ácido possui uma solubilidade aquosa de pelo menos 0,1 g por 100 g de água a 20°C.Preferably, the organic acids of the present invention are water soluble. By "water soluble" is meant that the acid has an aqueous solubility of at least 0.1 g per 100 g of water at 20 ° C.
Agentes Clareadores da Pele Outros agentes clareadores da pele conhecidos, tais como a hidroquinona e seus derivados (por exemplo, arbutina, 4-hidroxianisol, mequinol, HMBE, monobenzona, etc.), retinol e seus derivados (por exemplo, tretinoína, ácido retinóico), resorcinol e seus derivados (por exemplo, 4-alquil resorcinóis, etc.), reservatol, ácido elágico, ácido linoléico e ácido a-lipólico, extratos clareadores naturais da pele e suas misturas podem ser incorporados.Skin Whitening Agents Other known skin whitening agents, such as hydroquinone and its derivatives (eg arbutin, 4-hydroxyanisol, mequinol, HMBE, monobenzone, etc.), retinol and its derivatives (eg tretinoin, retinoic acid ), resorcinol and its derivatives (eg 4-alkyl resorcinols, etc.), reservatol, ellagic acid, linoleic acid and α-lipolic acid, natural skin lightening extracts and mixtures thereof may be incorporated.
Protetores Solares A composição da presente invenção compreende de preferência uma quantidade eficaz de um protetor e/ou agente bloqueador solar para melhorar sinergicamente o benefício da composição em termos de clareamento da pele. Os protetores/bloqueadores solares orgânicos e inorgânicos ou suas combinações podem ser utilizados de modo apropriado na composição. A luz ultravioleta é a causa predominante do escurecimento da pele. Assim, quando o objetivo é clarear a pele, composições que compreendem protetores solares UVA e/ou UVB são desejáveis.Sunblocks The composition of the present invention preferably comprises an effective amount of a sunblock and / or sunscreen to synergistically improve the skin's lightening benefit of the composition. Organic and inorganic sunscreens / blockers or combinations thereof may be suitably used in the composition. Ultraviolet light is the predominant cause of darkening of the skin. Thus, when the goal is to lighten the skin, compositions comprising UVA and / or UVB sunscreens are desirable.
Uma ampla variedade de agentes protetores solares convencionais é apropriada para uso em combinação com composições para o clareamento da pele da presente invenção. Os agentes protetores solares apropriados compreendem o ácido p-aminobenzóico e seus sais e derivados (etil, isobutil, gliceril ésteres; o ácido p-dimetilaminobenzóico); os antranilatos (por exemplo, os o-aminobenzoatos; metil, mentil, fenil, benzil, feniletil, linalil, terpinil, e ciclo-hexenil ésteres); os salicilatos (amil, fenil, benzil, mentil, gliceril e dipropileno glicol ésteres); os derivados do ácido cinâmico (mentil e benzil ésteres, a-fenil cinamonitrila; butil cinamoil piruvato), os derivados do ácido di-hidroxicinâmico (umbeliferona, metilumbeliferona, metilaceto-umbeliferona), os derivados do ácido tri-hidroxicinâmico (esculetina, metilesculetina, dafnetina, e os glicosídeos, esculina e dafnina); os hidrocarbonetos (difenilbutadieno, estilbeno; a dibenzalacetona e a benzalacetofenona; os naftol-sulfonatos (sais de sódio dos ácidos 2-naftol-3, 6-dissulfônico e 2-naftol-6, 8-dissulfônico); o ácido di-hidróxi-naftóico e seus sais; os o- e p-hidroxifenildissulfonatos; os derivados da cumarina (7-hidróxi, 7-metil, 3-fenil); os diazóis (2-acetil-3-bromoindazol, fenil benzoxazol, metil naftoxazol, vários aril benzoatizóis); os sais de quinina (bissulfato, sulfato, cloreto, oleato e tanato); os derivados da quinolina (sais da 8-hidroxiquinolina, 2-fenilquinolina); as benzofenonas hidróxi- ou metóxi substituídas); os ácidos úrico e vilúrico; o ácido tânico e seus derivados (por exemplo, hexaetiléter); o butil carbotol; 6-propil piperonil éter; a hidroquinona, as benzofenonas oxibenzeno, sulisobenzona, a dioxibenzona, o benzoresorcinol, a 2,2’,4,4’-tetra-hidroxibenzofenona, a 2,2’-di-hidroxi-4,4’-dimetilbenzofenona octabenzona; o 4-isopropildibenzoilmetano, o butil-metoxidibenzoilmetano; o etocrileno; e o 4-isopropil-di-benzoilmetano.A wide variety of conventional sunscreen agents are suitable for use in combination with the skin lightening compositions of the present invention. Suitable sunscreen agents include p-aminobenzoic acid and its salts and derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (e.g., o-aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl and dipropylene glycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, α-phenyl cinamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate), dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbeliferone, methylumbeliferone, methylaceto-umbeliferone), trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylsculetin, dafnetina, and the glycosides, esculin and dafnina); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene; dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphthol sulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acids and 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid); naphthoic and its salts; o- and p-hydroxyphenyl disulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazols (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzoatizols); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate and tanate); quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline, 2-phenylquinoline salts); substituted hydroxy or methoxy benzophenones); uric and villuric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (for example hexaethyl ether); butyl carbotol; 6-propyl piperonyl ether; hydroquinone, benzophenones oxybenzene, sulisobenzone, dioxibenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethylbenzophenone octabenzone; 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; and 4-isopropyl di-benzoylmethane.
Entre eles, preferem-se o 2-etil-hexil-p-metoxicinamato, o 4,4’-t-butilmetoxidibenzoil-metano, a 2-hidróxi-4-metoxibenzofenona, o octildimetil-p- ácido aminobenzóico, o digaloiltrioleato, a 2,2-di-hidróxi-4-metoxibenzofenona, o etil-4-(ò/'s-(hidroxipropil)) aminobenzoato, o 2-etil-hexil-2-ciano-3,3-difenilacrilato, o 2-etil-hexil-salicilato-gliceril-p-aminobenzoato, o 3,3,5-trimetilciclo-hexilsalicilato, o metilantranilato, o ácido ou o aminobenzoato dimetil-p-aminobenzóico, o 2-etil-hexil-p-dimetil-amino-benzoato, o ácido 5-sulfônico 2-fenilbenzimidazol, o ácido-5-sulfônicobenzóico 2-(p-dimetilaminofenil) e misturas de tais compostos.Among them, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-t-butylmethoxybenzoyl methane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digaloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (6 's- (hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethyl -hexyl-salicylate-glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthanilate, dimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylamino benzoate 5-sulfonic acid 2-phenylbenzimidazole, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl) -5-sulfonicic benzoic acid and mixtures thereof.
Os protetores solares úteis na presente invenção ainda mais preferidos são o 2-etil-hexil-p-metoxicinamato, o butilmetoxidibenzoilmetano, a 2-hidróxi-4-metobenzofenona, o ácido octildimetil-p-aminobenzóico e suas misturas. São também particularmente úteis nas composições os protetores solares divulgados na patente US 4.937.370 concedida para Sabatelli em 26 de junho de 1990, e na patente US 4.999.186 concedida para Sabatelli & Spirnak em 12 de março de 1991, as quais estão incorporadas aqui por referência. Os protetores solares revelados nessas patentes possuem, em uma molécula única, duas frações de cromóforos distintas, que apresentam diferentes espectros de absorção dos raios ultravioleta. Uma das frações de cromóforos absorve predominantemente na faixa dos raios UVB e a outra absorve mais intensamente na faixa dos raios UVA.Even more preferred sunscreens useful in the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-metobenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof. Also particularly useful in the compositions are sunscreens disclosed in US Patent 4,937,370 issued to Sabatelli on June 26, 1990, and US Patent 4,999,186 issued to Sabatelli & Spirnak on March 12, 1991, which are incorporated herein. by reference. The sunscreens disclosed in these patents have, in a single molecule, two distinct chromophore fractions, which have different ultraviolet absorption spectra. One fraction of chromophores absorbs predominantly in the range of UVB rays and the other absorbs more intensely in the range of UVA rays.
Uma quantidade segura e eficaz de protetor solar pode ser utilizada na composição útil na presente invenção. A composição compreende de preferência de aproximadamente 0,1 % a aproximadamente 10 %, mais preferencialmente de aproximadamente 0,1 % a aproximadamente 5 %, de um ou mais agente(s) protetor(es) solar(es).A safe and effective amount of sunscreen may be used in the composition useful in the present invention. The composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, of one or more sunscreen agent (s).
Os protetores ou bloqueadores solares inorgânicos úteis compreendem, sem se limitar a eles, o óxido de zinco, o óxido de ferro, a sílica, tal como a sílica pirolisada, e o dióxido de titânio. O dióxido de titânio ultrafino em qualquer uma de suas duas formas, ou seja, dióxido de titânio dispersível em água e dióxido de titânio dispersível em óleo são especialmente apropriados para a presente invenção, O dióxido de titânio dispersível em água é um dióxido de titânio ultrafino, cujas partículas não são revestidas ou são revestidas com um material para conferir uma propriedade de superfície hidrófila às partículas. Como exemplos dessas substâncias, pode-se citar o óxido de alumínio e o silicato de alumínio. O dióxido de titânio dispersível em óleo é um dióxido de titânio ultrafino, cujas partículas apresentam uma propriedade de superfície hidrófoba, e podem, para os objetivos da presente invenção, ser revestidas com sabões metálicos tais como o estearato de alumínio, o laurato de alumínio ou o estearato de zinco, ou com compostos organossiliconados.Useful inorganic sunscreens or blockers include, but are not limited to, zinc oxide, iron oxide, silica such as pyrolysed silica, and titanium dioxide. Ultrathin titanium dioxide in either of its two forms, ie water dispersible titanium dioxide and oil dispersible titanium dioxide are especially suitable for the present invention. Water dispersible titanium dioxide is an ultrafine titanium dioxide whose particles are uncoated or coated with a material to impart a hydrophilic surface property to the particles. Examples of such substances include aluminum oxide and aluminum silicate. Oil dispersible titanium dioxide is an ultrafine titanium dioxide, the particles of which have a hydrophobic surface property, and may, for purposes of the present invention, be coated with metal soaps such as aluminum stearate, aluminum laurate or zinc stearate, or with organosiliconised compounds.
Com a aplicação tópica na pele de uma mistura de protetores ou bloqueadores solares e/ou protetores solares orgânicos, pode-se obter a proteção sinergicamente melhorada da pele contra os efeitos nocivos dos raios UV-A e dos raios UV-B. A quantidade total de protetor ou bloqueador solar inorgânico que é incorporado de preferência na composição de acordo com a presente invenção varia de 0,1 a 5 % em peso da composição.By applying topically to the skin a mixture of sunscreens or blockers and / or organic sunscreens, synergistically enhanced skin protection can be achieved against the harmful effects of UV-A and UV-B rays. The total amount of inorganic sunscreen or sunscreen that is preferably incorporated into the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
Veículo Cosmeticamente Aceitável A composição de acordo com a presente invenção compreende ainda um veículo cosmeticamente aceitável para agir como diluente, dispersante ou carreador de outras substâncias presentes na composição, de modo a facilitar sua distribuição quando a composição é aplicada sobre a pele. A frase “veículo cosmeticamente aceitável”, tal como utilizada aqui, significa um(a) ou mais cargas, diluentes, aditivos e similares, sólidos(as) ou líquidos(as), compatíveis, que sejam cosmeticamente aceitáveis tal como aqui. O termo “compatível”, tal como usado na presente invenção, significa que os componentes das composições desta invenção são capazes de ser misturados com os ativos primários da presente invenção, e entre si, de maneira que não haja uma interação que reduza substancialmente a eficácia da composição em condições normais de uso. O tipo de carreador utilizado na presente invenção depende do tipo de produto desejado.Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle The composition according to the present invention further comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a diluent, dispersant or carrier of other substances present in the composition, so as to facilitate its distribution when the composition is applied to the skin. The phrase "cosmetically acceptable carrier" as used herein means one or more compatible solid, liquid or fillers, diluents, additives and the like which are cosmetically acceptable as herein. The term "compatible" as used herein means that the components of the compositions of this invention are capable of being mixed with and among the primary actives of the present invention so that there is no interaction that substantially reduces the efficacy. composition under normal conditions of use. The type of carrier used in the present invention depends on the type of product desired.
Os veículos diferentes de água podem incluir emolientes líquidos ou sólidos, óleos, óleos de silicone, solventes, umectantes, espessantes, emulsificantes, propelentes e pós. Cada um desses tipos de veículos pode ser utilizado isoladamente ou em misturas com um ou mais veículos. Essas misturas podem estar na forma de emulsões (O/A, A/O ou A/O/A).Carriers other than water may include liquid or solid emollients, oils, silicone oils, solvents, humectants, thickeners, emulsifiers, propellants and powders. Each of these types of vehicles may be used alone or in mixtures with one or more vehicles. Such mixtures may be in the form of emulsions (O / W, W / O or W / O / W).
Os emolientes e os óleos compreendem, sem porém se limitar, o álcool estearílico, o monoricinoleato de glicerila, o óleo de visom, o álcool cetílico, propílico e estearílico, o ácido esteárico, o palmitato de isobutila, o estearato de isocetila, o álcool oléico, o laurato de isopropila, o laurato de hexila, o oleato de decila, o octadecan-2-ol, o álcool isocetílico, o álcool eicosanílico, o álcool behenílico, o palmitato de cetila, os óleos de silicone como o dimetilpolissiloxano, o di-n-butil-sebacato, o miristato de isopropila, o palmitato de isopropila, o estearato de isopropila, o estearato de butila, o polietileno glicol, o trietileno glicol, a lanolina, a manteiga de cacau, o óleo de milho, o óleo de sementes de algodão, o óleo de oliva, o óleo de caroço de palma, o óleo de colza, o óleo de cártamo, o óleo de prímula, o óleo de soja, o óleo de sementes de girassol, o óleo de abacate, o óleo de sementes de gergelim, o óleo de coco, o óleo de amendoim, o óleo de rícino, os álcoois de lanolina acetilados, a geléia de petróleo, o óleo mineral, o miristato de butila, o ácido isoesteárico, o ácido palmítico, o linoleato de isopropila, o lauril lactato, o miristil lactato, o oleato de decila, o miristato de miristila; etc.Emollients and oils include, but are not limited to, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl, propyl and stearyl alcohol, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, alcohol oleic acid, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, almond oil endoim, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, oleate of decila, myristyl myristate; etc.
Pode-se citar a título de exemplos não limitativos dos óleos de silicone, os polidimetilsiloxanos, as ciclometiconas, a feniltrimeticona, o dimeticonol e suas misturas. A água é um solvente preferido. Entre os solventes orgânicos apropriados, pode-se citar: o propileno glicol, o polietileno glicol, o polipropileno glicol, o glicerol, o 1,2,4-butanotriol, o 1,2,6-hexanotriol, o etanol, o isopropanol, os ésteres de sorbitol, o butanodiol, a acetona, o monoetil éter de etileno glicol, o monobutil éter de dietileno glicol, o monoetil éter de dietileno glicol e suas misturas.Non-limiting examples of silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclomethicones, phenyltrimethicone, dimethiconol and mixtures thereof. Water is a preferred solvent. Suitable organic solvents include propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2,4-butanotriol, 1,2,6-hexanotriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mixtures thereof.
Os umectantes podem ser selecionados entre a glicerina, a diglicerina, a triglicerina, a poliglicerina, os gliceróis etoxilados e propoxilados, o propileno glicol, o polietileno glicol, o etileno glicol, o dietileno glicol, o trietileno glicol, o propileno glicol, o dipropileno glicol, o hexileno glicol, o 1,3-butileno glicol, o 1,4-butileno glicol. Entre os álcoois poli-hídricos, o propileno glicol e o dipropileno glicol são preferidos.Humectants can be selected from glycerine, diglycerine, triglycerine, polyglycerine, ethoxylated and propoxylated glycerols, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol. Among polyhydric alcohols, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol are preferred.
Entre os pós, pode-se citar, o talco, a argila esméctica, o caulim, o amido, as gomas, os poliacrilato de sódio de sílica coloidal, as tetra alquil e/ou tetrialquil aril amônio esmectitas, o silicato de alumínio/magnésio organicamente modificado, a argila de montmorilonita modificada, o silicato de alumínio hidratado, a sílica pirolisada, o polímero carboxivinílico, a carboximetil celulose de sódio e o monoestearato de etileno glicol.Powders include talc, smectic clay, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and / or tetrialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, aluminum / magnesium silicate organically modified, modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, pyrolyzed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and ethylene glycol monostearate.
Entre os espessantes apropriados, pode-se citar os espessantes poliméricos tais como os acrilatos/polímeros reticulados de alquil acrilato com C10-C30, as poliacrilamidas, os polímeros catiônicos, as gomas (por exemplo, a goma de xantano, a goma de guar), os derivados de celulose (por exemplo, hidroxietil celulose, hidroxipropil celulose).Suitable thickeners include polymeric thickeners such as C10-C30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked acrylates / polymers, polyacrylamides, cationic polymers, gums (e.g. xanthan gum, guar gum) , cellulose derivatives (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose).
Como exemplos não limitantes de propelentes, pode-se citar 0 propano, o butano, o isobutano, o dimetil éter, o dióxido de carbono e o óxido nitroso.Non-limiting examples of propellants include propane, butane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide and nitrous oxide.
Na formação de misturas de veículos ou emulsões, os emulsifícantes aniônicos/ não iônicos podem também ser opcional mas não preferencialmente incluídos.In forming vehicle mixtures or emulsions, anionic / nonionic emulsifiers may also be optional but not preferably included.
Os emulsifícantes aniônicos apropriados podem ser escolhidos entre os alquil sulfatos, os aralquil sulfatos, os alcóxi etóxi éter sulfatos, os sulfonatos de alcarila, os succinatos de alquila, os sulfosuccinatos de alquila, os A/-alcoil sarcosinatos, os isetionatos, o A/-acil-tauratos, as amidas de ácidos graxos da metil taurida e suas combinações. Pode-se, por exemplo, utilizar os sais dos monoésteres do ácido sulfúrico ou os monoésteres do ácido fosfórico, os sais de ácidos graxos com C12-18, de álcoois graxos com C12-18, de ácidos isetiônicos com C12-18, de ácidos alcano-sulfônicos com C12-i8, ou de ácidos acilamino com Ci2.18. Como exemplos não-limitantes de tensoativos aniônicos, pode-se citar os ésteres de fosfato como o lauril éter fosfato de polioxietileno de sódio (10), o cetil fosfato de DEA, o cetil fosfato de potássio, os derivados orgânicos fosforosos e o oleil éter fosfatato (10 óxido de etileno), o lauril sulfato de sódio e o cetoestearil sulfato de sódio.Suitable anionic emulsifiers may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, aralkyl sulfates, alkoxy ethoxy ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, Î ± -alkyl sarcosinates, isethionates, A / -acyl taurates, the fatty acid amides of methyl tauride and combinations thereof. For example, salts of sulfuric acid monoesters or phosphoric acid monoesters, salts of C12-18 fatty acids, C12-18 fatty alcohols, C12-18 isethonic acids, acidic salts may be used. C12-18 alkanesulfonic acids or C12-18 acylamino acids. Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include phosphate esters such as sodium polyoxyethylene lauryl ether phosphate (10), DEA cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, phosphorus organic derivatives and oleyl ether. phosphate (10 ethylene oxide), sodium lauryl sulphate and sodium cetostearyl sulphate.
Entre os emulsifícantes não iônicos apropriados, pode-se citar a título de exemplos não limitativos, os álcoois graxos, os monoglicerídeos de ácidos graxos, o monoestearato de glicerila e o monoestearato de diglicerila, os ácidos graxos etoxilados e propoxilados, tais como o estearato de monoestearato de propileno glicol (100) polioxietileno, os ésteres dos ácidos graxos do sorbitano tais como o monoesterato de sorbitano, o monoestearato de sorbitano polioxietilenado (20), os álcoois graxos etoxilados como o éter estearílico do polioxietileno (21), o éter estearílico do polioxietileno (2), o óleo de rícino hidrogenado polioxietilenado, as alcanolamidas de ácidos graxos tais como a dietanolamida de coco e lauramida DEA, os polímeros em bloco tais como os copolímeros em bloco do óxido de propileno e do óxido de etileno, os alquilpoliglicosídeos, os ésteres de sacarose e de glicose e seus derivados tais como o diestearato de sacarose, o estearato de sacarose e os ésteres de ácidos graxos. Pode-se citar outros emulsificantes não-iônicos que compreendem os alquilfenóis etoxilados tais como o polioxietileno (10) nonil fenil éter, os ácidos graxos etoxilados, tais como o monoestearato óxido de etileno de polietileno glicol (10), os ésteres graxos etoxilados tais como o gliceril monoestearato de polioxietileno (5), os ésteres graxos e óleos etoxilados tais como os ésteres de glicerol tais como os derivados à base de lanolina tais como a lanolina polioxietilenada, os ácidos graxos etoxilados e propoxilados, os álcoois ou alquilfenóis propoxilados e etoxilados tais como um cetil éter de polioxipropileno (4) polioxietileno (10), e os tensoativos à base de proteínas tais como o monoisoesterato de glicerina monopioglutamico polioxietilenado (25). Os emulsificantes não-iônicos compreendem de preferência um dos compostos mencionados a seguir, sozinhos ou em combinação: os alquiléteres etoxilados (sob a marca comercial Brij); os ésteres de sorbitano (sob a marca comercial Span); os ésteres de sorbitano etoxilados (sob a marca comercial Tween); os ésteres de ácidos graxos etoxilados (sob a marca comercial Myrj); os álcoois graxos; os álcoois graxos etoxilados da glicerina; e os ácidos graxos.Suitable nonionic emulsifiers include non-limiting examples such as fatty alcohols, fatty acid monoglycerides, glyceryl monostearate and diglyceryl monostearate, ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty acids such as propylene glycol (100) polyoxyethylene monostearate, sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monesterate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20), ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as polyoxyethylene stearyl ether (21), polyoxyethylene (2), polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, fatty acid alkanolamides such as coconut diethanolamide and lauramide DEA, block polymers such as propylene oxide and ethylene oxide block copolymers, alkyl polyglycosides, sucrose and glucose esters and their derivatives such as sucrose distearate, sucrose stearate and fatty acid esters. Other nonionic emulsifiers may be mentioned which include ethoxylated alkylphenols such as polyoxyethylene (10) nonyl phenyl ether, ethoxylated fatty acids such as polyethylene glycol ethylene oxide (10), ethoxylated fatty esters such as polyoxyethylene glyceryl monostearate (5), fatty esters and ethoxylated oils such as glycerol esters such as lanolin-based derivatives such as polyoxyethylenated lanolin, ethoxylated and propoxylated fatty acids, such as ethoxylated alcohols or alkylphenols as a polyoxypropylene (4) polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether, and protein-based surfactants such as polyoxyethylenated monopioglutamic glycerine monoisoesterate (25). Nonionic emulsifiers preferably comprise one of the following compounds alone or in combination: ethoxylated alkyl ethers (under the tradename Brij); sorbitan esters (under the trademark Span); ethoxylated sorbitan esters (under the trademark Tween); ethoxylated fatty acid esters (under the trademark Myrj); fatty alcohols; the ethoxylated fatty alcohols of glycerine; and fatty acids.
Entre as partículas assimétricas sólidas apropriadas, pode-se citar os cristais de ácido graxos, a mica, o talco, as argilas e suas misturas. As partículas sólidas preferidas são selecionadas entre os cristais de ácidos graxos nos quais o ácido graxo contém de 12 a 22 átomos de carbono, porque eles têm um custo reduzido e são os mais aceitáveis do ponto de vista estético. O ácido graxo mais particularmente preferido é o ácido esteárico. A quantidade exata depende da composição final e da natureza dos outros ingredientes na composição.Suitable solid asymmetric particles include fatty acid crystals, mica, talc, clays and mixtures thereof. Preferred solid particles are selected from the fatty acid crystals in which the fatty acid contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, because they are low in cost and aesthetically acceptable. The most particularly preferred fatty acid is stearic acid. The exact amount depends on the final composition and the nature of the other ingredients in the composition.
Ativo Detergente Pode-se também fornecer a composição de clareamento da pele da presente invenção na forma de um produto lavável (“wash-off”) para a higiene pessoal. Um ativo detergente é um componente preferido de tais composições e pode ser selecionado entre os ativos que contêm ou não sabão. Os ativos detergentes podem ser selecionados entre os ativos aniônicos, não-iônicos, catiônicos, anfóteros ou zwitteriônicos. Tais ativos estão descritos em manuais padrão sobre detergentes tais como por exemplo “Surface Active Agentes and Detergents", Volume II de Schwartz, Perry and Berch. O termo sabão designa sais de ácidos graxos carboxílicos. O sabão pode ser derivado de qualquer triglicerídeo tradicionalmente utilizado na fabricação de sabão - conseqüentemente os ânions carboxilato no sabão podem conter de 8 a 22 átomos de carbono.Detergent Active The skin lightening composition of the present invention may also be provided in the form of a wash-off for personal hygiene. A detergent active is a preferred component of such compositions and may be selected from the soap and non-soap containing actives. Detergent actives can be selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic actives. Such actives are described in standard detergent manuals such as "Surface Active Agents and Detergents", Volume II by Schwartz, Perry and Berch. The term soap means salts of carboxylic fatty acids. Soap may be derived from any traditionally used triglyceride. in soap making - therefore the carboxylate anions in soap can contain from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Para os sabões que possuem 18 átomos de carbono, o cátion de sódio associado representará geralmente cerca de 8 % em peso. Pode-se usar outros cátions, como desejado, por exemplo zinco, potássio, magnésio, alquil amônio e alumínio. O sabão pode ser obtido pela saponificação de uma gordura e/ou ácido graxo. As gorduras ou óleos geralmente utilizados na fabricação de sabão podem ser o sebo, as estearinas de sebo, o óleo de palma, as estearinas de palma, o óleo de soja, o óleo de peixe, o óleo de rícino, o óleo de farelo de arroz, o óleo de girassol, o óleo de coco, o óleo de babaçu, o óleo de caroço de palma, e outros. No processo acima, os ácidos graxos são derivados de óleos/gorduras selecionados de coco, farelo de arroz, amendoim, sebo, palma, caroço de palma, sementes de algodão, sementes de soja, rícino, etc. Os sabões de ácidos graxos podem também ser preparados sinteticamente (por exemplo, por oxidação do petróleo ou por hidrogenação do monóxido de carbono pelo processo de Fischer Tropsch). Os ácidos de resina, tais como os que estão presentes no óleo de pinho, podem ser utilizados. Os ácidos naftênicos também são apropriados.For soaps having 18 carbon atoms, the associated sodium cation will generally represent about 8% by weight. Other cations may be used as desired, for example zinc, potassium, magnesium, alkyl ammonium and aluminum. Soap can be obtained by saponification of a fat and / or fatty acid. The fats or oils commonly used in soap making may be tallow, tallow stearins, palm oil, palm stearins, soybean oil, fish oil, castor oil, bran oil, rice, sunflower oil, coconut oil, babassu oil, palm kernel oil, and others. In the above process, fatty acids are derived from selected oils / fats of coconut, rice bran, groundnut, tallow, palm, palm kernel, cottonseed, soybean, castor, etc. Fatty acid soaps may also be prepared synthetically (for example, by oxidation of petroleum or by hydrogenation of carbon monoxide by the Fischer Tropsch process). Resin acids, such as those present in pine oil, may be used. Naphthenic acids are also appropriate.
Os ácidos graxos do sebo podem ser derivados de várias fontes de origem animal e compreendem geralmente cerca de 1-8 % de ácido mirístico, cerca de 21-32 % de ácido palmítico, cerca de 14-31 % de ácido esteárico, cerca de 0-4 % de ácido palmitoléico, cerca de 36-50 % de ácido oléico e cerca de 0-5 % de ácido linoléico. Uma distribuição típica é 2,5 % de ácido mirístico, 29 % de ácido palmítico, 23 % de ácido esteárico, 2 % de ácido palmitoléico, 41,5 % de ácido oléico, e 3 % de ácido linoléico. Outras misturas similares, tais como as que são derivadas de óleo de palma e as que são derivados de vários sebos e banhas de origem animal também estão incluídas. O óleo de coco compreende mistura de ácidos graxos que possuem uma distribuição aproximada do comprimento da cadeia de carbono de 8% C8, 7% Cio, 48% C12, 17% C14, 8% C16, 2% C18, 7% ácido oléico e 2% ácido linoléico (os seis primeiros ácidos graxos relacionados são saturados). Outras fontes que possuem distribuições similares do comprimento da cadeia de carbono, tal como o óleo de caroço de palma e o óleo de caroço de babaçu estão incluídos no termo óleo de coco.Tallow fatty acids can be derived from various animal sources and generally comprise about 1-8% myristic acid, about 21-32% palmitic acid, about 14-31% stearic acid, about 0%. -4% palmitoleic acid, about 36-50% oleic acid and about 0-5% linoleic acid. A typical distribution is 2.5% myristic acid, 29% palmitic acid, 23% stearic acid, 2% palmitoleic acid, 41.5% oleic acid, and 3% linoleic acid. Other similar mixtures, such as those derived from palm oil and those derived from various animal fat and lard are also included. Coconut oil comprises a mixture of fatty acids having an approximate carbon chain length distribution of 8% C8, 7% C10, 48% C12, 17% C14, 8% C16, 2% C18, 7% oleic acid and 2% linoleic acid (the first six related fatty acids are saturated). Other sources having similar carbon chain length distributions, such as palm kernel oil and babassu stone oil are included in the term coconut oil.
Ingredientes Cosméticos Opcionais As composições da presente invenção podem compreender uma ampla faixa de outros componentes opcionais. O CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Segunda Edição, 1992, que são incorporadas no presente em sua totalidade como referência, descreve, em termos não limitativos, uma ampla variedade de ingredientes comumente utilizados na indústria de cuidados da pele, que são apropriados para utilização nas composições da presente invenção. Entre eles, pode-se citar a título de exemplo: os antioxidantes; os ligantes; os aditivos biológicos; os agentes tampões; os corantes; os espessantes; os polímeros; os adstringentes; os perfumes; os umectantes; os agente opacificantes; os ajustadores de pH; os conservantes; os extratos naturais; os óleos essenciais; os agentes que produzem sensações agradáveis na pele; os agentes calmantes da pele; os agentes curativos para a pele. A presente invenção será agora descrita através dos exemplos não-limitantes apresentados a seguir.Optional Cosmetic Ingredients The compositions of the present invention may comprise a wide range of other optional components. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety, describes, but is not limited to, a wide variety of ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry which are suitable for use in the compositions. of the present invention. Among them, one can cite by way of example: antioxidants; the binders; biological additives; buffering agents; the dyes; thickeners; the polymers; the astringents; the perfumes; the humectants; opacifying agents; pH adjusters; the preservatives; natural extracts; essential oils; agents that produce pleasant skin sensations; skin soothing agents; the healing agents for the skin. The present invention will now be described by the non-limiting examples set forth below.
Exemplo 1 Sete formulações comparativas (F1 a F7) e uma formulação de acordo com a presente invenção (F8) foram preparadas pela mistura dos componentes descritos na Tabela 1.Example 1 Seven comparative formulations (F1 to F7) and one formulation according to the present invention (F8) were prepared by mixing the components described in Table 1.
As diversas formulações descritas foram utilizadas para testar sua eficácia no clareamento da pele, em um painel de 30 voluntários com cor de pele uniforme. A cor inicial da pele foi registrada (gravada). A formulação foi aplicada nos antebraços desses voluntários por aplicadores treinados em áreas pré-designadas. A formulação foi aplicada 5 vezes por dia em cada área com um espaço de 2 horas entre cada aplicação, e os antebraços foram lavados apenas antes da primeira da aplicação do dia e depois da última aplicação do dia. Após 40 aplicações, a mudança de cor foi registrada (gravada). Uma classificação visual foi utilizada para quantificar a mudança da cor por diferença direta com a área em torno daquela sobre a qual a formulação foi aplicada. As diferenças entre a simples base (placebo) e as áreas tratadas foram indicativas da eficácia da formulação e os valores negativos de clareamento da pele indicam um clareamento e os valores negativos indicam um escurecimento.The various formulations described were used to test their skin whitening efficacy in a panel of 30 volunteers with uniform skin color. The initial skin color was recorded (recorded). The formulation was applied to the forearms of these volunteers by trained applicators in pre-designated areas. The formulation was applied 5 times a day to each area within 2 hours between each application, and the forearms were washed just before the first application of the day and after the last application of the day. After 40 applications, the color change was recorded (recorded). A visual classification was used to quantify color change by direct difference with the area around the one to which the formulation was applied. Differences between the simple base (placebo) and the treated areas were indicative of formulation efficacy and negative skin lightening values indicate lightening and negative values indicate darkening.
Tabela 1 Os dados apresentados na tabela 2 abaixo mostram o escore médio de clareamento da pele calculado como média em todos os voluntários dos pontos de diferença direta.Table 1 The data presented in Table 2 below show the average skin whitening score calculated as average in all volunteers of the direct difference points.
Tabela 2 Os dados apresentados na tabela 2 mostram que somente a combinação da vitamina B3, e vitamina B6 com um ácido carboxílico (F8) confere um benefício sinérgico de clareamento da pele. Com cada vitamina isolada juntamente com o ácido carboxílico (F6 ou F7) ou uma combinação das duas vitaminas (F5) não há uma melhora significativa em relação aos ativos individuais isoladamente (F2, F3 ou F4).Table 2 The data presented in Table 2 show that only the combination of vitamin B3 and vitamin B6 with a carboxylic acid (F8) confers a synergistic skin lightening benefit. With each vitamin alone combined with carboxylic acid (F6 or F7) or a combination of the two vitamins (F5) there is no significant improvement over individual actives alone (F2, F3 or F4).
Exemplo 2 Três formulações comparativas (F9 a F11) e uma formulação de acordo com a presente invenção (F12) foram preparadas pela mistura dos componentes descritos na Tabela 1. A eficácia das formulações para o clareamento da pele foi testada em um painel de 30 voluntários com cor de pele uniforme. A cor inicial da pele foi registrada (gravada). A formulação foi aplicada em seus antebraços por aplicadores treinados em áreas pré-designadas. A formulação foi aplicada 5 vezes por dia em cada área com um espaço de 2 horas entre cada aplicação, e os antebraços foram lavados apenas antes da primeira da aplicação do dia e depois da última aplicação do dia. Após 25 aplicações, a mudança de cor foi registrada (gravada). Uma classificação visual foi utilizada para quantificar a mudança da cor por diferença direta com a área em torno daquela sobre a qual a formulação foi aplicada. As diferenças entre a simples base (placebo) e as áreas tratadas foram indicativas da eficácia da formulação e os valores negativos de clareamento da pele indicam um clareamento e os valores negativos indicam um escurecimento.Example 2 Three comparative formulations (F9 to F11) and one formulation according to the present invention (F12) were prepared by mixing the components described in Table 1. The effectiveness of the skin whitening formulations was tested in a panel of 30 volunteers. with uniform skin color. The initial skin color was recorded (recorded). The formulation was applied to their forearms by trained applicators in pre-designated areas. The formulation was applied 5 times a day to each area within 2 hours between each application, and the forearms were washed just before the first application of the day and after the last application of the day. After 25 applications, the color change was recorded (recorded). A visual classification was used to quantify color change by direct difference with the area around the one to which the formulation was applied. Differences between the simple base (placebo) and the treated areas were indicative of formulation efficacy and negative skin lightening values indicate lightening and negative values indicate darkening.
Tabela 3 Os dados apresentados na tabela 4 abaixo mostram o escore médio de clareamento da pele calculado como média em todos os voluntários dos pontos de diferença direta.Table 3 The data presented in Table 4 below show the average skin whitening score calculated as average in all volunteers of the direct difference points.
Tabela 4 Os dados apresentados na Tabela 4 mostram que a combinação de vitamina B3, e vitamina B6 com outros ativos ácidos (ácido ferúlico) conferem um benefício sinérgico de clareamento da pele que não foi constatado com as vitaminas utilizadas isoladamente ou em combinação com um ácido.Table 4 The data presented in Table 4 show that the combination of vitamin B3 and vitamin B6 with other acid actives (ferulic acid) confer a synergistic skin lightening benefit not found with vitamins used alone or in combination with an acid. .
Portanto, foi possível através da presente invenção fornecer uma composição sinérgica para o clareamento da pele que compreende a combinação das vitaminas B3 e B6 com ácidos carboxílicos.Therefore, it has been possible through the present invention to provide a synergistic skin lightening composition comprising the combination of vitamins B3 and B6 with carboxylic acids.
Claims (19)
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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IN1165/MUM/2003 | 2003-11-06 | ||
IN1165MU2003 | 2003-11-06 | ||
GB0404118.2 | 2004-02-25 | ||
GB0404118A GB0404118D0 (en) | 2004-02-25 | 2004-02-25 | Improved cosmetic composition |
PCT/EP2004/012355 WO2005044214A1 (en) | 2003-11-06 | 2004-10-29 | Improved cosmetic composition comprising vitamin b3, vitamin b6 and an organic acid |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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BRPI0415157A BRPI0415157A (en) | 2006-11-28 |
BRPI0415157B1 true BRPI0415157B1 (en) | 2015-04-28 |
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