MXPA02004611A - Leave on skin cosmetic compositions comprising a polyhydric alcohol and a liquid crystal forming emulsifier. - Google Patents

Abstract

A leave on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: (a) from greater than about 20 % to less than about 80 % by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and (b) from about 2 % to about 45 % by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and (b) from about 2 % to about 45 % by weight an emulsifier which is capable of forming liquid crystals in water. The compositions of the invention display high moisturisation efficacy without the associated high levels of tack, as well as good rheological and absorption properties, in addition to skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS THAT ARE LEFT IN THE SKIN THAT COMPRISE A POLYHYDRICAL ALCOHOL AND AN EMULSIFIER THAT FORM LIQUID CRYSTALS FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular it relates to cosmetic compositions with a high wetting efficiency without high levels of tack. The compositions also show characteristics of in-use, carving and absorption as well as excellent benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is constituted by several layers of cells that coat and protect the fibrous proteins of keratin and collagen that form the skeleton of this structure. The outermost layer of these layers is referred to as the stratum corneum, which is known to be composed of 25nm of protein bundles surrounded by 8nm thick layers. The surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and by delipidation (ie removal of lipids from the stratum corneum) destroy its integrity. This destruction of the topography of the surface of the skin leads to a rough sensation and may eventually allow the surfactant or solvent to interact with the keratin creating irritation. It is now recognized that maintaining an adequate water gradient throughout the stratum corneum is important for its functionality. Most of this water, which is sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum plasticizer, comes from the inner part of the body. If the humidity is very low, such as in a cold climate, an insufficient amount of water remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to adequately plasticize the tissue and the skin begins to peel and become irritated. The permeability of the skin is also reduced in some way when there is an inadequate amount throughout the stratum corneum. On the other hand, a lot of water on the outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to finally absorb three to five times its own weight of water included.

This swells and wrinkles the skin and results in approximately a two to three fold increase in the permeability of the skin to water and other polar molecules. Therefore, there is a need for compositions that can help the stratum corneum maintain its water barrier and retention functions as an optimal performance in view of the damaging interactions to which the skin may be found when washing said skin, or with work or during recreational activities. The desirable properties of cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are good skin feel, water retention, wetting, absorption and carving characteristics. The skin feel of a composition, perceived by the consumer as skin smoothness or skin smoothness is related to the emollients of a composition that form a layer or film upon application to the skin. The characteristics of absorption and carving of a composition refer to its physical behavior under mechanical stress that will be affected by the rheological profile to the composition. Many cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are known to provide various degrees of emolliency, water retention and barrier (wetting) benefits, and in addition to be able to provide high skin wetness it is necessary to incorporate humectant materials similar to polyhydric alcohols such as glycerin in a composition. The compositions for the skin with high levels of polyhydric alcohols and therefore high levels of wetting, however, are perceived by the consumer as unpleasant since such compositions form very sticky residues when applied to the skin. Therefore, there is a need for compositions that exhibit low levels of tack or adhesion while providing high levels of wetting, as well as providing excellent skin feeling benefits., softness of the skin and smoothness of it. It has been unexpectedly discovered that incorporating an emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water in a cosmetic composition that is left on the skin, comprises an amount greater than 20% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, a composition with low levels of stickiness or adhesion. The compositions also show good water absorption and retention properties, in addition to excellent benefits and wetting characteristics, skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness. Emulsifiers that have the ability to form liquid crystals in water are known for use in cosmetic compositions. See for example WO98 / 22085, WO97 / 32560, WO97 / 32561, and W094 / 17830, and the brochures of ICI (1) "Arlatone" 2121: Natural emulsifier for oil-in-water milks and creams (Ref. 41) -5); and (2) Ethylene-oxide-free oil-in-water (or / W) and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsifiers by Dederen, C. et al., (Ref RP 72 / 92E). however, none of these documents teaches or suggests the use of such emulsifiers to reduce high tack levels in cosmetic compositions comprising a high level of polyhydric alcohol (greater than about 20% by weight of the composition).

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition that is left on the skin suitable for topical application thereto, comprising: (a) from greater than 20% to about less than 80% by weight weight of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and (b) from about 2% to about 45% by weight of an emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water. The compositions of the invention show a high wetting efficiency without the associated levels of tackiness, as well as good rheological and absorption properties, in addition to the benefits obtained from skin feeling, skin smoothness and smoothness thereof. According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a skin treatment cosmetic method comprising applying to the skin a composition according to the present invention. According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided the use of emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water to reduce stickiness in a skin care composition comprising an amount greater than 20% or less from 80% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof. According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a composition comprising from greater than about 20% to less than 80% of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and an emulsifier that has the ability to form liquid crystals in water for the care of the skin that is left on it.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The compositions of the present invention comprise a polyhydric alcohol together with an essential emulsifying component, as well as several optional ingredients as indicated below. All levels and relationships are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. The chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also specified on the basis of weight average. The term "adhesion" or "adhesion", as used in the present invention, in relation to a laid-on composition, means the ability of a composition to lightly bond to the surfaces of the skin wherein the composition has been applied. , with the application of a slight pressure and on a reduced time scale. The term "sticky" or "stickiness" as used herein is a term that is frequently used by consumers to describe their perception of either actual or perceived stickiness of a composition. As used herein, the term "is left" in relation to the skin care compositions means that it is intended to be used without any rinsing step, such that after applying the composition in the skin, the composition that is left on is preferably left on the skin for a period of about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, more preferably at least about 1 hour, and still more preferably at least several hours, for example up to 12 hours or more. The term "skin conditioning agent" as used in the present invention means a material that has the ability to provide a cosmetic conditioning benefit to the skin such as wetting, hydration (i.e. the ability to retain or hold water or moisture in the skin). the skin), emolliency, visual improvement of the skin surface, soothing sensation of the skin, smoothing of the skin, and improvement in the sensation of the skin. The term "enzyme" as used herein means the enzyme, wild-type or variant, either per se, or chemically modified by the conjugation of polymer portions. As used herein, the term "wild type" refers to an enzyme produced by non-mutated hosts. As used in this, the term "variant" means an enzyme having an amino acid sequence that differs from that of the wild type enzyme due to the genetic mutation of the host producing said enzyme. The compositions herein can be used for any suitable purpose. Particularly, the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin or hair. In particular, the compositions may be in the form of creams, lotions, gels and the like.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase.

Polyhydric alcohols As an essential component, the compositions herein comprise at least one polyhydric alcohol. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise in an amount greater than 20% or less than 80%, most preferably from about 22% to about 70% and especially from about 25% to about 60% by weight of the polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures of the same. Polyhydric alcohols suitable for use herein include polyalkylene glycols and most preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erythriol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, (i.e., 1,3-butylene glycol), hexantriol, (i.e., 1, 2,6-hexantriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin. The preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and derivatives thereof, hexantriol, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof.

Very preferred are the polyhydric alcohols for use in the present invention which are glycerin, butylene glycol, or mixtures thereof.

Emulsifier As a second essential component, the compositions herein comprise an emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water. It is not essential that the composition herein comprises liquid crystals at room temperature. Gel networks are commonly formed from liquid crystals as a result of cooling during the manufacturing process. It has been found that compositions that form gel networks at room temperature give excellent results. In the literature, liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids, a fourth state of matter, in the structure of surfactant association or mesophases. Those terms are often used interchangeably. The term "lithropic" means a crystalline liquid system containing a polar solvent, such as water. The liquid crystals that are used herein are lamellar, hexagonal or rod structures, or mixtures thereof. The liquid crystalline phase used in the compositions of the invention can be identified in various ways. A liquid crystal phase flows under shear stress and is characterized by a viscosity that is significantly different from the viscosity of its isotropic solution phase.

In addition, when viewed in a polarized light microscope, liquid crystals or gel networks that form at room temperature show an identifiable birefringence, such as, for example, a flat sheet birefringence, while sotropic solutions and gels rigid can be seen under polarized light, both in dark fields. Other suitable means for identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, NMR spectroscopy and transmission and electron microscopy. Preferably, in the compositions herein, the emulsifier is a mixture comprising at least one emulsifier having a high HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance) and at least one emulsifier having a low HLB. The HLB system is well known in the art and is described in detail in "The HLB System, a Time Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection," ICI Americas Inc., August 1984, which is incorporated herein by reference. The ratio of emulsifier from low HLB to high HLB emulsifier in the mixture is from 10: 1 to approximately 100: 1. The emulsifier is incorporated into the composition in an amount of from about 2% to about 45%, preferably from about 3% to about 40%, most preferably from about 3% to about 30% by weight of the composition. Low HLB emulsifiers suitable for the present invention have an HLB of 1 to 8 and a melting point of at least 45 ° C. Examples of low HLB emulsifiers suitable for use in the compositions of this invention include the following: saturated C C to C C gras fatty alcohols, such as cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols; hydroxy fatty acids of C16 to C30, such as palmitic, stearic, behenic and hydroxystearic acid; mono or polyglycerol esters of C8 to C2, such as triglycerol stearate and triglycerol distearate; esters of mono-, di- or tri-fatty acids of polyol from Cs to C24 such as sorbitan stearate, available under the tradename Arlacel 60 from ICI, Wilton, Middlesborough, UK, sorbitan distearate, available under the trade name Arcelone 65 from ICI, methyl glucose sequistearate, available under the trade name Glucate SS from Amerchol, Edison, New Jersey, USA, and polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate, available under the trade name Tegocare 450 from Goldschmidt, Hopewell, Virginia , USA, sucrose dipalmitate, and sucrose distearate and dextrin plamimitate; glyceryl esters of C8 to C30, such as glyceryl monostearate or distearate (mono 40-60%), glyceryl monostearate, palmitate or laurate (mono 90%) and glyceryl hydroxystearate; and C6 to C30 saturated ethoxylated fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 mmoles of ethylene oxide, such as steareth 2, available under the tradename Brij 72 of ICI, ceteth 2, available under the trade name Brij 52 of ICI, and Beheneth 5 available under the trade name Nikkol BB-5 from Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan; and mixtures thereof. The low HLB emulsifiers useful herein are selected from the group consisting of saturated C-? 6 to C30 fatty alcohols, saturated C-? 6 to C30 ethoxylated fatty alcohols containing from about 1 to about 5 mmole of oxide ethylene; mono or polyglycerol esters of Cß to C2; mono-, di-, or tri-fatty acid esters of Cβ to C 30 polyol; wherein the polyol is preferably selected from dextrin, sugars, or sorbitan; hydroxy fatty acids from Cie to C30; and mixtures thereof. Low HLB emulsifiers for use herein include Cß to C24 fatty acid mono-polyol esters wherein the polyol is sorbitan; saturated C-iß to C 30 fatty alcohols; saturated C-? 6 to C30 ethoxylated fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof; C8 to C2 sorbitan acid esters are preferred. more preferred are glyceryl mono stearate, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan stearate, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. A low HLB emulsifier is sorbitan stearate. High HLB emulsifiers have an HLB greater than 8. Suitable high HLB emulsifiers useful herein are cationic, anionic or nonionic. Nonionics are preferred. Suitable examples of high nonionic HLB emulsifiers include the following: alkoxylated ethers of Ci to C30 fatty alcohols, such as Steareth 10, available under the tradename Brij 76 of ICI, Wilton, Middlesborough, UK, Steareth 20, available under the trade name Brij 78 of ICI, Steareth 21, available under the trade name Brij 721 of ICI, Steareth 100, available under the trade name of Brij 700 of ICI, and Ceteareth-12, available under the trade name of Emu B! From Henkel, La Grange, Illinois, E.U.A .; alkoxylated derivatives of Ct to C3o fatty acids, such as Peg-20 stearate available under the tradename Myrj 49 from ICI, Peg-40-stearate, available under the tradename Myrj 49 from ICI, and PEG-100- stearate, available under the trade name Myrj 59 from ICI; alkyl polyoxyalkylene sugar esters, such as polysorbate 60, available under the tradename TCII 60 from ICI, PEG-20methylglucosasesquastearate, available under the tradename Glucamate SSE 20 from Amerchol, Edison, New Jersey, USA, and PEG-20 glycerylmonostearate , available under the tradename Tagat S2 from Goldschmidt, Hopewell, Virginia, USA; fatty acid esters of mono-, di-, or tri- sucrose, preferably sucrose esters of mono-fatty acid, such as sucrose cocoate, available under the tradename Crodesta SL-40 from Croda Surfactants, Goole, England, palmitate of sucrose, available under the trade name of Ryoto Sugar Ester P-150 from Mitsubishi-Kasei, Tokyo, Japan, and sucrose stearate, available under the trade name Crodesta F-160 from Croda Surfactants; polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids from C-i to C or, such as decaglyceryl mono- or di-stearate; and C-i to C30 esters of polyols, such as cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Suitable high anionic HLB emulsifiers useful herein include lactates, such as sodium steroaryl lactylate, available from Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd., phosphonic acid esters and salts, such as diethanolamine acetylphosphate, available under the trade name Amphisol from Givaudan-Roure, Clifton, New Jersey, USA, and potassium cetyl phosphate, available under the tradename Amphisol K from Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd., and sulfuric acid esters such as sodium cocomonoglyceride sulfate, available from Nikko Chemical Co ., Ltd., and mixtures thereof. Suitable high cationic HLB emulsifiers useful herein include tetraalkylammonium salts, such as dicetyl chloride or distethylammonium, available from Witco, Greenwich, Connecticut, USA, and fatty acid amides, such as stearamium chloride, available from Witco, and mixtures thereof. Preferred high HLB emulsifiers for use herein are ethers of Ci to C3o polyols, alkoxylated ethers of Ci to C30 fatty alcohols, or fatty acid stress of mono-, di- or tri- sucrose or mixtures thereof. same. In mixtures of the mono-sucrose fatty acid ester with di- or tri- sucrose esters, the mono ester preferably comprises at least 70%, most preferably 80% by weight of the total of the ester mixture. saccharose. Higher HLB emulsifiers which are fatty acid esters of mono-, di- or tri- sucrose are more preferred. A preferred high HLB emulsifier is sucrose cocoate. An emulsifier for use herein is most preferably a combination of fatty acid ester based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, especially a combination of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. The former is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121. In the compositions of the present invention, the concentration of combined polyhydric alcohol and emulsifier is on the scale of about 10% to about 99%, preferably about 15%. % to about 95%, and especially from about 20% to about 90% by weight of the composition.

Optional Ingredients Oil Phase Preferably, the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in an oil continuous phase, each oil phase comprising an oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form. The different oil phases contain different materials or combinations of materials with each other. The total component level of the oil phase in the compositions of the invention is typically from 0.1% to about 60%, preferably from about 1% to about 30%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10%. Preferably, the oil phase components of the compositions herein comprise an emollient material or mixtures thereof, and a silicone oil or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil phase preferably comprises additional oily components such as natural or synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes and mixtures thereof. These oily components are present in an amount from 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. Preferred for use herein are, for example, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils or petrolatum. Additional examples suitable for use herein are described in WO98 / 22085.

Emollient Materials The compositions in the present invention can comprise emollient materials selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 15,000 preferably from about 100 to 10O0; the compounds of the formula I: Formula Where R1 is selected from H or CH3, R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from straight or branched chain alkyl of C? -C2o and x is an integer of 1-20; and compounds having the formula II: Formula II Wherein R5 is optionally selected from hydroxy or C-t-C4 alkyl and substituted benzyl and R6 is selected from straight or branched chain alkyl of C C2o and mixtures thereof. The branched chain hydrocarbons suitable for use herein are selected from isodecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, isooctahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectane, isopentacontacoctactane, petrolatum and mixtures thereof. Branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons sold under the tradename Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Presperse Inc., P.O. are suitable for use herein. Box 735, South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, USA. Suitable emollient materials of esters of formula I above include but are not limited to, methyl isoterate, sopropylisostearate, isostearylpentanoate, Sononylisonanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octylpelargonate, octylisononanoate, myristyl myristate, myristylneopentanoate, myristyl octanoate, myristylpropionate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof. Suitable ester emollient materials of formula (II) include, but are not limited to C12-15 alkyl benzoates.

Preferred emollients for use herein are isohexadecane, isooctacontane, petrolatum, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyloctanoate, isodecylisononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octylisononanoate, myristyl myristate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isoterate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred emollients for use herein are isohexadecane, sononylisononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isoterate, petrolatum, or mixtures thereof. The emollient material is preferably present in the compositions at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, especially about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

Polyolcarboxylic acid ester The compositions in the present invention can only be understood as a further emollient, an ester of polyol carboxylic acid. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% and especially from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The level of polyol ester by weight of oil in the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%. From the viewpoint of providing improved benefits of skin smoothness and smoothness thereof, the weight ratio of polyol carboxylic acid ester to emollient material is preferably in the range of 5: 1 to about 1: 5, very preferably on the scale of 2: 1 to about 1: 2. Preferred polyol polyesters useful in this invention are CrC30 mono and polyesters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol portion and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar these esters can be either liquid or solid at room temperature. Examples include, glucosetetraoleate, galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, hexabis of sorbitol in which the carboxylic acid portions are palimitoleate and arachididate in a molar ratio 1: 2, and the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a 1: 3: 4 molar ratio. Other materials include cottonseed oils or fatty acid esters of soybean oil or sucrose. Other examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636, incorporated herein by reference. A particularly preferred material is known by the name INCI which is cotton seed polyoate sucrose.

Silicone oil The present compositions preferably comprise at least one phase of silicone oil. The phase (s) of silicone oil generally comprises from 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. The or each, the phase or each of the silicone oil phases preferably comprises one or more silicone components. The silicone components can be fluid, including branched and cyclic silicones, straight chain. Suitable silicone fluids useful herein include silicones including polyalkylsiloxane fluids, polyarylsiloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, modified amino and quaternary ammonium silicones, polyalkylaryl siloxanes or a polyether siloxane copolymer or mixtures thereof. Silicone fluids can be volatile or non-volatile. Silicone fluids generally have a weight average molecular weight of less than about 200,000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less, most preferably about 10,000 or less. Preferably the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having a weight average molecular weight in the range of from about 100 to about 50,000, and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. Typically, the silicone fluids have a viscosity ranging from 0.65 to about 600,000 mm2.s "1, preferably from 0.65 to about 10,000 mm2.s" 1 to 25 ° C. The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as established in the corporate test method of Dow Corning CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes which can be used herein include those available, for example from General Electric Company such as the SF series and Viscasil (RTM) and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. essentially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes, or for example polymethylphenylsiloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm.sup.-2 at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are available, for example in General Electric Company as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as the cosmetic grade fluid 556. The cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use herein are those having a ring structure incorporating from 3 to about 7 portions (CH 3) 2 SiO.In preferred embodiments, the silicone fluid is selected from dimethicone , decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenylmethylone and mixtures thereof can also be used in the present invention. You invention silicone gums. The term "siiicone gums" herein means high molecular weight silicones having a weight average molecular weight in excess of about 20,000 and preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Non-volatile polyarylsiloxane and polyalkylsiloxane rubbers are included. In preferred embodiments, a silicone oil phase comprises a silicone gum or a mixture of silicones including silicone gum. Typically, silicone gums have a viscosity at 25 ° C in excess of about 1,000,000 mm2.s "1" Silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch and others including US-A-4,152,416 on 1 May 1979 to Spitzer et al., and Noli, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York; Academic Press 1968. The data sheets General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 also describe silicone gums. Specific examples of silicone gums include the polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane), the copolymer of poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) and mixtures thereof. Preferred silicone gums for use herein are silicone gums having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, and dimethicone and mixtures thereof. A silicone phase herein preferably comprises a silicone rubber incorporated in the composition as part of a rubber-fluid combination. When the silicone rubber is incorporated as part of a silicone rubber-fluid combination, the silicone rubber preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%, especially from about 10% to 20% by weight of the combination rubber-fluid silicone. The silicone rubber-fluid combinations suitable herein are mixtures consisting essentially of: (i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof; and (ii) a vehicle that is a silicone fluid, wherein the vehicle has a viscosity of 0.65 mm2.s "1 to about 100 mm2.s" 1 'where the ratio of i) to ii) is about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein said silicone rubber-based component has a final viscosity of 100 mm2.s "1 to about 100,000 mm2.s" 1, preferably about 500 mm2.s "1 to about 10,000 A component based on the silicone-rubber fluid combination especially preferred for use in the compositions in the present invention is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 together with a silicone fluid carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm2.s "1" An example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403 (dimethicone fluid / 15% dimethiconol) and (85% 5 mm2.s "1) available from Dow Corning. Additional silicone components suitable for use in an oily silicone phase herein are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers, optionally dispersed in a fluid carrier. In general, when the entangled polyorganosiloxane polymers are present, together with their carrier (if present) they comprise from 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition, said polymers comprise polyorganosiloxane polymers intertwined by an interlacing agent. Suitable crosslinking agents are described in WO98 / 22085. Examples of polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use herein include methylvinyldimethicone, methylvinyldiphenyldimethicone and methylvinylphenylmethyldiphenyldimethicone. The commercially available cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers specific for use herein are mixtures of silicone vinyl cross-linked polymers under the tradename KSG supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd., for example KSG-15. KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18. These materials contain a combination of interlaced polyorganosiloxane polymer and silicone fluid. Particularly preferred for use herein especially in combination with the organic amphiphilic emulsifier material is KSG-18. The INCI names assigned to KSG-15. KSG-16, KSG-17, and KSG-18 are crosslinked polymer of cyclomethicondimeticon / vinyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymer of dimethicondimethicone / vinyl dimethicone, crosslinked polymer of cyclomethicondimethicon / vinyl dimethicone and crosslinked polymer of phenyltrimethicondimeticon / phenylvinyldimethicone, respectively.

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in an oily silicone phase herein includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers, at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane segments and copolymers thereof are described in WO98 / 22085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers are commercially available under the trade names Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gescháftsbereich S, Pstfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil (RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road , Ruislip, Middiesex, HA4 OYL, for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly preferred copolymer fluid combination for use herein includes Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA designation of dimethicone copolyol / dimethicone.

POLYMER THICKENING AGENTS The compositions of the present invention may comprise at least one polymeric thickening agent. The polymeric thickening agents useful herein preferably have an average molecular weight greater than 20,000, most preferably greater than 50,000 and especially greater than 100,000. In general, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 87% and more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight of the composition of the composition. polymeric thickening agent, or mixtures thereof. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that compositions comprising polyol-like humectants and polymeric thickening agents may occur a physical association of the polyol-like humectant with any polymeric thickening agent present in the composition. This physical association between the polyol-like humectant and the polymeric thickening agent can further exacerbate the stickiness that already occurs in compositions comprising high levels of polyol-like humectants only. Preferred polymeric thickening agents for use herein include nonionic thickeners and anionic thickening agents, or mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic thickening agents include polyacrylamide polymers, entangled poly (N-vinylpyrrolidones, polysaccharides, natural or synthetic gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylalcohol Suitable anionic thickeners include copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate, carboxyvinyl polymers and crosslinked ethers copolymers alkyl vinyl and maleic anhydride Particularly preferred are the thickening agents for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers such as polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the tradename Sepigel 305 from Seppic Corporation, and copolymers of acrylic acid / ethylacrylate and the carboxy vinyl polymers sold by BF Goodrich Company under the trademark Carbopol resins, or mixtures thereof Suitable Carbopol resins can be hydrophobically modified, and other suitable resins are described in WO98 / 22085, or mixtures from the same.

Humectants The compositions of the present invention may comprise additional humectants that are preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% and especially from about 0.5% to about 15%. %. Additional humectants suitable herein are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine, glycolic acid, and glucoate salts (ie, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); lactic acid and lactic salts (ie, ammonium and quaternary alkylammonium); aloe vera in any of its varieties of forms (ie, aloe vera, gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (ie, salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); monoethanolamine lactamide; monoethanolamine acetamide; urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof. At least part of (up to 5% by weight of the composition) of an additional humectant can be incorporated in the form of a mixture with a particulate crosslinked acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, preferably present by itself in a quantity of about from 0.1% to about 10%, which can be added to both the aqueous and the dispersed wing aqueous phase. This copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing the gloss and controlling the oil level while contributing to provide the benefits of effective wetting and is described in greater detail in W96 / 03964, which is incorporated herein by reference. The compounds mentioned above can be incorporated alone or in combination. The preferred additional humectants are selected from urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

Enzymes In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more enzymes selected from proteases, lipases, phospholipases, glucosidases, lactoperoxidases, celluloses, and mixtures thereof, especially proteases. Enzymes are preferably present at a level of from about 0.0001% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.0005% to about 1%, and especially from about 0.001% to about 0.1% by weight of the composition. Protease enzymes are classified under the E.C. enzyme classification number. 3.4 (carboxyl ester hydrolads) according to the recommendations (1992) of the International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology (IUBMB). Useful proteases are also described in PCT publications: WO 95/30010 published November 9, 1995 by The Procter & Gamble Company; WO 95/30011 published November 9, 1995 by The Procter & Gamble Company; WO 95/29979 published November 9, 1995 by The. Procter & Gamble Company. Preferred protease enzymes for use herein are subtilisin enzymes, chymotrypsin and elastase type protease enzymes. Especially preferred for use herein are protease enzymes of the subtilisin type. The enzymes of subtilisin are produced naturally by microorganisms of Bacillus alkalophilus, Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus amylosaccharícus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus lentus and Bacillus subtilis. A particularly preferred subtilisin-type enzyme is the bacterial serine protease enzyme, and variants thereof, obtained from Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus licheniformis and / or Bacillus subtilis, including Alcalase®, Esperase®, Savinase® from Novo Industries A / S ( Copenhagen, Denmark), Maxatase®, Maxaeal® and Maxapem 15® from Gist-brocades 'and subtilisin BPN and BPN' (genetically engineered Maxaeal®) (Delft, The Netherlands), are commercially available. Especially preferred are protease enzymes, and variants thereof, obtained from Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. A known enzyme is BPN '. The BPN 'of the silverstre type of Bacillus amyloliquefaciens is characterized by amino acid seucandi: 1 10 20 Wing Gin Ser Val Pro Tyr Gly Val Ser Gin lie Lys Wing Pro Wing Leu His Ser Gin City 30 40 Tyr Thr Gly Ser Asn Val Lys Val Wing Val He Asp Ser Gly lie Asp Ser Ser His Pro 50 60 Asp Leu Lys Val Wing Gly Giy Wing Being Met Val Pro Ser Glu Thr Asn Pro Phe Gin Asp 70 80 Asn Asn Ser His Gly Thr His Val Wing Gly Thr Val Wing Wing Leu Asn Asn Ser lie Gly 90 100 Val Leu Gly Val Ala Pro Ser Ala Ser Leu Tyr Ala Val Lys Val Leu Gly Ala Asp Gly 110 120 Ser Gly Gin Tyr Ser Trp lie lie Asn Gly He Glu Trp Wing lie Wing Asn Asn Met Asp 130 140 Val lie Asn Met Ser Leu Gly Gly Pro Ser Gly Ser Ala Ala Leu Lys Ala Ala Val Asp 150 160 Lys Wing Val Wing Ser Gly Val Val Val Val Wing Wing Wing Gly Asn Glu Gly Thr Ser Gly 170 180 Being Ser Thr Val Gly Tyr Pro Gly Lys Tyr Pro Ser Val lie Wing Val Gly Ala Val 190 200 Asp Being Ser Asn Gin Arg Wing Being Phe Ser Being Val Gly Pro Giu Leu Asp Val Met Wing 210 220 Pro Gly Val Ser lie Gin Ser Thr Leu Pro Gly Asn Lys Tyr Gly Wing Tyr Asn Gly Thr 230 240 Ser Met Wing Ser Pro His Val Wing Ala Gly Wing Wing Ala Leu He Leu Ser Lys His Pro Asn 250 260 Trp Thr Asn Thr Gin Val Arg Ser Ser Leu Glu Asn Thr Thr Thr Lys Leu Gly Asp Ser 270 275 Phe Tyr Tyr Gly Lys Lys Gly Leu lie Asn Asn Val Gin Ala Wing Ala Gin The variants of LBP ', hereinafter referred to as "Protease A", are described in US patent 5,030,378 (issued to Venegas, July 9, 1991) as characterized by the amino acid sequence BPN' with the following mutations: a) Gly in position Glyl66 is replaced with Asn, Ser, Lys, Arg, His, Gln, Ala or Glu; the Gly in position Gly169 is replaced with Ser; the Met at the Met222 position is replaced with Gln, Phe, Cys, His, Asn, Glu, Ala or Thr; or b) Giy in the position Gly166 is replaced with Lys and the Met in the position Met222 is replaced with Cys; or c) Giy in position Gly160 is replaced with Ala and the Met in position Met222 is replaced with Ala. Additional variants of LBP ', hereinafter referred to as "Protease B", are described by Genencor International, Inc. (San Francisco, California) European patent EP-B-251, 446 (granted on 28 December 1994 and published on January 7, 1988) as characterized by the wild-type amino acid BPN 'with mutations in one or more of the following amino acids: TyT21, Thr22, Ser24, Asp36, Ala 45, Ala48, Ser49, Metdfl, His67, Ser87, Lys94, Va195, Gly97, Ser101, Gly102, G1y103, lie 107, G1y110, Met124, Gly127, Gly128, Pro129, Leu135, Lys170, Tyr171, Prol72, Asp197, Met 199, Ser 204, Lys213 , Tyr214, Gly215, and Ser221; or two or more of the amino acids listed above and Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Alai 52, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217, and Met222 where both mutations can not be performed on the amino acids Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Alai 52, Asn155, Glu156, Gly 166, Gly 169, Phe 189, Tyr217, and Met222. Another variant of the BPN 'protease, which is hereinafter referred to as "Protease D", is described in WO 95/10615 published April 20, 1995 by Genencor International as characterized by the wild-type amino acid BPN' with the mutation at position Asn76, in combination with mutations at one or more amino acid positions selected from the group consisting of Asp99, Ser101, Glnl03, Tyr104, SerlOd, Ile107, Asnl09, Asn123, Leu126, Gly127, Gly128, Leul35, Glu156, Gly166, Glu195, Asp197, Ser204, Gln206, Pro210, Ala216, Tyr217, Asn2l8, Met222, Ser260, Lys265, and / or Ala274. Another variant of protease BPN ', hereinafter referred to as "Protease F", is described in U.S. Patent No. 4,760,025, issued to Estell, et al. on July 26, 1988 as characterized by the wild-type amino acid BPN 'with mutation in one or more amino acid positions selected from the group consisting of Asp32, Ser33, His64, Tyr104, Asn155, Glu 156, Gly 166, Gly 169 , Phe 189, Tyr217, and Met222. Then, the preferred proteolytic enzymes are selected from the group consisting of Alcalase®, BPN ', Protease A, Protease B, Protease D, and Protease F, and mixtures thereof. Protease F is the most preferred.

Also suitable for use herein are proteases that are designed to maintain high levels of activity while at the same time decreasing potential allergic respects. Examples of said proteases include chemically modified proteases such as those described in W099 / 06071 wherein the protease molecules are modified with a plurality of double polymer portions coiled to the protease and those described in the co-pending EUA Application No. 09/088912 on June 8, 1998 by The Procter and Gamble Company. Further suitable examples of proteases designed to show reduced allergenicity, in fact maintain high activity, and are protease molecules whose epitope regions have been mottled and subsequently altered by removing, changing, or masking regions of the epitope amino acid sequence. The epitope regions are those regions of active amino acids of the protease that are believed to invoke an allergic response. Suitable examples of such protease variants useful herein include those described in co-pending US Application No. 60/079447, filed March 26, 1998 and 60/079397, filed March 26, 1998 by The Procter and Gamble Company, which are incorporated into the both by reference.

Salts The compositions of the present invention may also comprise a salt selected from alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium, calcium and magnesium salts, and mixtures thereof. Especially preferred for use herein are calcium and magnesium salts. The compositions herein preferably comprise from about 50 ppm to about 400 ppm of the salt, based on the amount of the metal ion. A wide variety of optional ingredients such as neutralizing agents, perfumes and coloring agents can also be added to the compositions herein. Neutralizing agents suitable for use in the neutralizing acid group containing hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, tris-regulator of pH and triethanolamine. The compositions of the invention are generally in the form of an emulsion and are preferably formulated to have a product viscosity of at least 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in the range of about 4,000 to about 1,000,000 mPa.s, most preferably of 8,000 to about 350,000 mPa.s and especially from about 10,000 to about 250,000 mPa.s and specifically from 10,000 to about 150,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, sharp, Brookfield RVT, Tspindle at 5 rpms and Heliopath base). The compositions of the invention may also contain from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, of a panthenol humectant. The panthenol humectant can be selected from D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl]] - 3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine , pantothein, panthenol ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex. Other optional materials include keratolytic agents / desquamation agents such as salicylic acid; water-soluble or solubilizable preservatives preferably at a level of from about 0.1 to about 5%, such as Germall 115, methicillin esters, ethyl, propyl and butyl hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, hydantoin iodopropanylbutylcarbonate DMDM available under the trade name Lonly Glydant Plus , EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitroprpoan-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterial, such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels of 0.1% to about 5%); soluble or colloidally soluble wetting agents such as hilaronic acid and sodium polyacrylates with starch graft, such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in USA-A-4, 076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivatives thereof as well as vitamin K; alpha and beta hydroxy acids; aloe vera; espingosinas and fitoespingosinas, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine; coloring agents; antibacterial agents such as TCC / TCS, also known as trichlorocarbon; perfumes and perfume solubilizers. Also useful herein are sun filter agents. A wide variety of sunscreen agents are disclosed in US Patents Nos. 5,087,445 to Haffey et al., Issued on February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372 to Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,371 to Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; and Segarin et al., Chapter VIII, page 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology. Among the preferred ones of these sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the invention are those selected from 2-ethylhex p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, acid 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomentilsalicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzyiidenaicamfor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene), camphor, titanium dioxide, oxide of zinc, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures of them. Still, other useful sunscreen agents are those described in the patents Nos. 4,937,370 to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186 to Sabatelli et al., issued March 12, 1991.

Generally sunscreens may comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the compositions useful herein. The exact amounts will vary depending on the chosen sunscreen and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is a measure that is commonly used for photo-protection of a sunscreen against erythema. See Federal Reqister, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978. The compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of aluminum octenylsucinate starch. Starch aluminum octenylsucinate is the aluminum salt of the octenylsuccinic anhydride reaction product with starch and is commercially available under the trade name Dry Fio National Starch & Chemical Ltd. Dry Fio and is useful in the present from the point of view of skin sensation and application characteristics. Other optional materials herein include pigments which, when not water-soluble, contribute to and are included in the total level of the oil phase ingredients. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and / or inorganic. Also included within the term pigment are materials that have low color or luster such as matte finishing agents, and also light screening agents. Preferably the compositions of the present invention comprise particulate materials having a refractive index of from about 13 to about 1.7, the particulate materials are dispersed in the composition and have an average particle size of from about 2 to about 30 μm. Preferably, the particulate materials useful herein have relatively narrow distributions, which means that more than 50% of the particles fall within 3 μm on either side of the respective median value. It is also preferred that more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, more preferably more than 70% of particles fall within the prescribed size scales for the respective average values. Suitable particulate materials are organic or organosilicone and preferably organosilicone polymers. Preferred particles are free-flowing, solid materials. By "solids" it means that the particles are not hollow. The space in the center of the hollow particles can have an adverse effect on the refractive index and by or both in the visual effects of the particles either in the skin or in the composition, suitable organic particle materials include those made of polymethylsiloquois , to which reference was made above, polyamide, polyethylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and polyvinylidene chloride. Copolymers derived from monomers of the aforementioned materials can also be used; Inorganic materials include silica and boron nitride. Commercially available representative examples of particulate materials useful herein are Tospearl® 145 having an average particle size of about 4.5 μm and Kobo EA-209® which is an ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer having a particle size. medium of about 10 μm, Nylon-12 available under the trade name Orgasol 2002 from Elf Atochem, France or mixtures thereof. Additional examples of suitable pigments are titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed Kobo titanium dioxide ie Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxides, iron aciglutamate oxides, ultramarine blue, D &C dyes, carmine and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of the composition, a mixture of pigments will normally be used. The preferred pigments for use herein from the standpoint of wetting, skin feel, appearance thereof and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils. a) Vitamin B Compounds The compositions of the present invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from 0.1% to about 20%, still more preferably from 0.5% to about 10%, and most preferably still from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 6%, of the vitamin B3 compound. As used in the present invention, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (ie, niacinamide), -COOH (ie, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the above. Exemplary derivatives of the above vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, N-oxide of nicotinic acid and N-oxide of niacinamide. Suitable esters of the C 1 -C 22 nicotinic acid, preferably C 1 -C 22, more preferably C 1 -C 6 alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatics) ), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilators. As used herein, "non-vasodilator" means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible discharge response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye). Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; nicotinate tocopherol is preferred. A more complete description of the compounds of Vitamin B3 is provided in WO 98/22085.

Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds above are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, for example from Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used herein. The preferred vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is the most preferred. a) Retinoids In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may further comprise a retinoid. The compound of vitamin B3 and retinoid provide unexpected benefits to regulate the condition of the skin, especially in therapeutically regulate the signs of aging of the skin, especially wrinkles, lines and pores. Without intending to be bound or otherwise limited by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the conversion of certain retinoids to trans-retinoic acid, which is believed to be the biologically active form of the retinoid, to provide the synergistic regulation of skin condition (ie, increased conversion for retinol, retinal and retinal esters). In addition, the vitamin B3 compound unexpectedly mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis, and the like which could somehow be associated with the topical application of the retinoid (which is frequently referred to as, and alternatively referred to herein as "dermatitis"). by retinoid "). In addition, the combined vitamin B3 and retinoid compound tend to increase the amount and activity of thioredoxin, which in turn tends to increase the levels of collagen expression by the AP-1 protein. Therefore, the present invention allows for reduced active levels, and therefore a reduced potential for retinoid dermatitis, while retaining significant skin conditioning benefits. In addition, higher levels of retinoid could still be used to obtain greater efficacy conditioning of the skin, without undesirable retinoid dermatitis.

As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (for example C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinoic acid (including trans-retinoic acid and / or acid). 13-cis-retinoic acid), most preferably retinoids and not retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources, for example, Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. The retinoid may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by adequate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). The compositions preferably contain about 0. 005% to about 2%, most preferably 0.01% to about 2%, of retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount from about 0.01% to about 0.15%, retinol esters are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% (eg about 1%). Suitably, the PH of the compositions herein is greater than 5, preferably greater than 5.25, and still more preferably 5.40, also preferably less than 9, most preferably less than 8, and most preferably even less than 7. Compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion, which can be applied to the skin as a leaving product. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

EXAMPLES I TO HIV Example I II III N V VI Ingredient%%%%%% p / p p / p p / p p / p p / p p / p Ariatone 2121 1 5 5 10 10 15 5 Glycerin 25 25 50 25 30 60 Petrolatum water 5 5 5 5 5 2 Dimethicone 2 3 3 3 3 1 Conservative 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Gel Gransil2 0 0 0 1 0 0 The above compositions are elaborated as follows: Heat the water to 80 ° C, add glycerin with mixing. Disperse the Arlatone 2121 within the water phase with mixing. Heat the ingredients of the oil phase to 80 ° C. Add to the aqueous phase with mixing. Cool and add temperature sensitive ingredients at 45 ° C.

Example HIV VIII Ingredient%% w / w / p Arlatone 2121 1 5 10 Glycerin 25 25 Petrolate 5.0 5 Cotton polysemillate - 1.5 sucrose Isohexadecane - 0.5 stearyl ester PPG-15 - - Dimethicone 2.0 3.0 Gel Gransil2 - 1.0 DC 14033 1.0 1.0 Protease F 0.015 0.005 Calcium chloride 0.042 0.083 Water, ingredients Cs to Cs to 100 100 1. Supplied by ICI surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Center, Middlesborough, Cleveland TS6 8JE, England. 2. Supplied by Grant Industries Inc., Elmwood Park, New Jersey, USA. (The gel comprises 74-83% (w / w) cyclomethicone (D5), 12-16% (w / w) polysilicone 11 and 12-15% (w / w) petrolatum). 3. A mixture of dimethicone and dimethiconol The compositions of Examples VII and VIII are prepared according to the procedure described above with the additional final step of mixing the enzyme solution (Protease F) at 30 ° C or lower to the batch. . The compositions show a high wetting efficiency without the high levels of tackiness, as well as good rheological and absorption properties, in addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin smoothness and skin smoothness.

Claims (1)

1. NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS 1. - A cosmetic composition that is left on the skin, suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: (a) from an amount greater than about 20% to less than about 80% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol or mixtures thereof; and (b) from about 2% to about 45% by weight of an emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water. 2. A composition according to claim 1, comprising from about 22% to about 70%, preferably from about 25% to about 60% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol and mixtures thereof. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, further characterized that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexantriol, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, and mixtures thereof. 4. A composition according to claim 3, further characterized in that the polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, or mixtures thereof. 5. - A composition according to claim 1 or 4, comprising from about 3% to about 40%, preferably from about 3% to about 30% by weight of the emulsifier. 6. A composition according to claim 1 or 5, further characterized in that the emulsifier comprises a mixture of at least one emulsifier having a high HLB and at least one emulsifier having a low HLB with a melting point of at least 45 ° C, whose emulsifier ratio of HLB low to high HLB emulsifier is from about 10: 1 to about 100: 1. 7. A composition according to claim 6, further characterized in that the high HLB emulsifier is selected from C1-C30 ethers of polyols; fatty alkoxylated C1-C30 ethers; and fatty acid esters of mono-, di- or tri- sucrose; and mixtures thereof; preferably fatty acid esters of mono-, di- or tri- sucrose; and the low HLB emulsifier is selected from C8-C24 polyol monosodium acid esters wherein the polyol is sorbitan; C16-C30 saturated fatty alcohols; C16-C30 saturated ethoxylated fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof; preferably sorbitan fatty acid stress of C8-C24; most preferably glycerylmonostearate, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan stearate or cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. 8. A composition according to claim 7, further characterized in that the emulsifier is a combination of fatty acid ester based on a mixture of sorbitan fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester. 9. A composition according to claim 8, further characterized in that the emulsifier is a combination of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. 10. A composition according to claims 1 to 9, further comprising from about 0.0001% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.005% to about 1%, and more preferably from about 0.001% to about 0.1% by weight of one or more enzymes selected from proteases, lipases, phospholipases, glycosidases, lactoperoxidases, celluloses and mixtures thereof, preferably proteases. 1. The use of from about 2% to about 45% by weight of an emulsifier having the ability to form liquid crystals in water, to reduce stickiness in a cosmetic composition left on the skin, suitable for topical application in the skin comprising more than about 20% or less than about 80% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof. 12. The use as claimed in claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition that is left on the skin has the characteristics of any of claims 2 to 10. 13. - A cosmetic treatment method for the skin that comprises applying thereto a cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 10.