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MXPA99008695A - Use of a silicone rubber to stabilize the ascorbic acid and new compositions which are composed of - Google Patents

Use of a silicone rubber to stabilize the ascorbic acid and new compositions which are composed of

Info

Publication number
MXPA99008695A
MXPA99008695A MXPA/A/1999/008695A MX9908695A MXPA99008695A MX PA99008695 A MXPA99008695 A MX PA99008695A MX 9908695 A MX9908695 A MX 9908695A MX PA99008695 A MXPA99008695 A MX PA99008695A
Authority
MX
Mexico
Prior art keywords
composition according
composition
silicone rubber
silicone
oils
Prior art date
Application number
MXPA/A/1999/008695A
Other languages
Spanish (es)
Inventor
Afriat Isabelle
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of MXPA99008695A publication Critical patent/MXPA99008695A/en

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Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a silicone gum to stabilize the ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts in a topical composition and to new compositions comprising these components and having a pH comprised between 4 and 7. These compositions can be used in the cosmetic, dermatological or veterinary fields

Description

? USE OF A RUBBER. OF SILICONE TO STABILIZE ASCORBIC ACID AND MOTIONS COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING THESE = ^ * _. r "COMPONENTS i 5 Field of the invention áfc "a. *. * The invention relates to the use of a It has been a long time to stabilize the ascidic acid or vitamin C, in suitable galenic presentations due to its beneficial properties.
Brief Description of the Invention Indeed, ascorbic acid has numerous biological functions such as the stimulation of collagen synthesis, the reinforcement of skin tissues against external aggressions (UV radiation, contamination), depigmentation, anti-free radical activity, compensation of vitamin E deficiency. Some of these beneficial properties have been particularly indicated by ENGLAND ET SEIFTER in the article "The biochemical functions of ascorbic acid" appeared in Ann.
Rev. Nutri., 1986: p < aqa 6 365-406. However, due to its chemical structure • 5 * (alpha ketolactone) ascorbic acid is very sensitive to the influence of environmental parameters such as light, oxygen, water (due to its pH and the presence of traces of metals). Inconsistent degradation occurs over time of the ascorbic acid in solution. In addition, emulsions containing ascorbic acid have a tendency to be unstable, ie to separate into two phases over time.
In the state of the art this problem has been treated in various ways. In order to reduce or delay the degradation of ascorbic acid in solution, the authors of US Pat. No. 5,143,043 have advocated stabilizing it by introducing it into X hydroalcoholic solutions, formed by at least one -4 and 80% water and with a pH lower than 3.5. Due to the strong acidity of these solutions, their use in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical field is hardly considerable. Indeed, a repeated application of these solutions can disturb the balance of the skin and in particular irritate, even burn the skin. It is known, on the other hand, the article by B.R.
Hajratwala entitled "Stability of ascorbic acid", published in the Revue Sciences Pharmaceutiques, on March 15, In this article the ilization of ascorbic acid in acid aqueous solution 20 is mainly indicated by the addition of a surfactant agent which is an ester -Oxyethylenated sorbitan mill. In particular, the author has indicated that at a pH of 3.4 and at 25 ° C, the contribution of this agent decreased -4 r the rate of oxidation, consequently of degradation of the ascorbic acid in solution. In addition, this document shows that the use *. of chelating agent such as ethylene diamine tetraacetic (EDTA) and the conditioning under nitrogen, in the absence of light, to improve the stability of the ascorbic acid in aqueous solution. An aqueous acid solution of this type, applied T on the skin, presents the same disadvantages as those described above for hydroalcoholic acid solutions. In addition, the obtained stabilization is still insufficient. t Other modes of stabilization of ascorbic acid I have been particularly considered for coating (technique described in document FR-A- • i i 1600826) or for granulation of ascorbic acid (technique , # illustrated by document JP-A-53-127819, for agri-food). But these techniques are on the one hand expensive and On the other hand, they can alter the ascorbic acid, for example during heating, and / or lead to poor cosmetic compositions, such as granules.
On the other hand, FR-A-1489249 discloses the use of metal salts of phosphorylated ascorbic acid, in particular ascorbyl phosphate * < -of magnesium, in cosmetic compositions. This last compound has an activity similar to that of the ascorbic acid from which it comes but presents some drawbacks that make its use on the skin unlikely. In particular, the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, being stable only at a basic pH (pH 8 to pH 9), must be incorporated in a basic composition that can be irritating to the skin (whose pH has a value of approximately 5.5). EP-A-0670 157 describes an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase containing ascorbic acid and having an acidic pH of a maximum value of 3.5. Compositions based on carboxylic acid polyols combined with specific emollients and with ascorbic acid are described in WO 98/22075. The recommended pH of these compositions is between 7 and 8. Such acidic or basic pH may have drawbacks.
Therefore, the set of proposals that have been made up to now has not allowed to solve the technical problems related to the instability of the ascorbic acid in solution, in a suitable galenic form that an efficiency and comfort for the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields already a cost compatible with industrial demands. * _f The need for a composition, which can be used in the cosmetic, dermatological and / or veterinary, containing stabilized ascorbic acid, in free state, ie without additional group particularly stabilizing, and that does not cause any skin irritation, after application. Description of the Invention 15 The applicant firm has now discovered, in a surprising way, that the use of a rubber of 1 i -f silicone allowed to stabilize the ascorbic acid. The interest in using a silicone rubber «V resides particularly in the fact of being able to use the Ascorbic acid, in a composition that does not cause skin irritation or burns. The composition of the invention is therefore well supported by the users. In addition, the composition of the invention has the advantage of being comfortable without being greasy. * In addition, the fact that the composition of the invention can incorporate ascorbic acid in the free, protonated state, provides more effective treatments in relation to prior art preparations comprising "derivatives" of hydrolyzable ascorbic acid in contact with the skin. The compositions of the invention can be in particular in the form of milk or creams which can be used in particular in the cosmetic, dermatological and / or veterinary fields. They have a light texture and spread well. They also provide, in the application, a feeling of freshness and provide a brightness of instant color. They allow, in particular, a smoothing of the features and imperfections of the skin. On the other hand, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to include any type of hydrophilic or lipophilic active agent, the pH of the compositions being neutral or scarcely acidic. On the other hand, the compositions of the invention have good stability properties, particularly at room temperature (20 ° C). The present invention therefore has as an essential object the use of a silicone rubber to stabilize the ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts i in a topical composition. In the context of the present invention, "ascorbic acid" or vitamin C is understood to mean ascorbic acid in the free, protonated state or one of its esters or salts. In the context of the present invention, "non-crosslinked linear polydimethylsiloxanes which can be hydroxylated or phenylated and having the consistency of a dense oil or of a clear solid as opposed to the alkyl, are designated by the term" silicone rubber ". alkoxy dimethicones which, when solid, have a waxy opaque appearance, but can also have the appearance of a clear oil when their melting point is lower than room temperature. The silicone rubber can be chosen from polydiorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight of between 100,000 and 2,000,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000. These silicone gums preferably have a viscosity equal to or greater than 200,000 cSt (0.2 m2 / s) and preferably greater than 300,000 cSt (0.3m2 / s), viscosity measured in the BROOKFIELD viscometer at 25 ° C. The silicone gum chosen from among the silicone gums of formula (I) below is more particularly used: wherein: R2 represents -CH3, -OH or -CßHs. R3 represents -CH3, -OH, -C6H5 or -0Si (CH3) 3, x = 0 or an integer ey is an integer with the proviso that yoxey are integers such that the weight average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000. Preferred silicone gums of the invention are chosen from dimethicones (polydimethylsiloxanes) and di-ethiols (polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxyl termination). The silicone rubber can be used alone or as a mixture, particularly with a solvent chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils, isoparaffins,? -f methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane, tetradecane or mixtures thereof. Silicone gums are generally marketed by the suppliers in a presolubilized form or not in a proportion of 5 to 20%, and preferably 10 to 15%, in a linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, of low molecular weight, volatile or not volatile Examples of silicone gums are the 96% dimethicone in cyclomethicone sold by the RHONE POULENC Company under the name "Mirasil * "< e > DM-500000®", and the dimethicone sold by the WACKER Company under the name "AK 300000®", and the dimethiconols sold under the names of "Q2-1403®" and "Q2-1401® "and" Q2-1503® "by the Dow Corning Company." ff, Another object of the invention is a topical composition in the form of an emulsion comprising ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts, a silicone gum and an emulsifier. siliconized and having a pH comprised between 4 and 7, and preferably between 5.5 and 6.5 The compositions according to the invention can be "1 particularly consist of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, the silicone gums are those described above.
Similarly, the silicone rubber can be used alone or in admixture with a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenyl ethylsiloxane oils or mixtures thereof. The ascorbic acid or one of its esters is present in the compositions of the invention in a concentration ranging between 0.1 and 20% and preferably between 2 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The silicone gum is present in the compositions of the invention in a concentration of active material ranging between 1 and 20% and preferably between 2 and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition further contains at least one polyol. The polyol can be chosen from glycerin, sorbitol or glycols, in particular propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol (s) are totally or partially in complexed form with an acrylic or methacrylic polymer. The polymer can also comprise bound water, ie be complexed with a mixture of water and polyol (s). Means acrylic or methacrylic polymer, a homopolymer or a copolymer of acrylic or methacrylic acid or a homopolymer or a copolymer of an acrylic or methacrylic acid derivative. Mention may be made as a complex homopolymer of water and polyols, those sold under the names of Norgel and Lubrajel CG by the Guardian Society. These polymers are glyceryl polyacrylates complexed with more than 65% glycerin and / or propylene glycol and less than 35% by weight of bound water. These polymers provide the complexed polyol and water, and eventually also play the gelling role of the composition. The polyol can be present in a concentration ranging between 5 and 40% and preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention can also contain at least one silicone oil. The latter can be chosen in particular from the group comprising volatile silicones such as cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, polydi ethylsiloxanes, polyphenyltrimethylsiloxanes and fluorinated silicones. The silicone oil can be present in a concentration ranging from 2 to 40% and preferably from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention also contain at least one silicone emulsifier. The silicone emulsifiers can be chosen from dimethicones copolyols and alkyldimethicone copolyols. The mixture of 4-polyglycerol isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyl laurate sold under the name "Abil WE 09®" by the company Goldschmidt, cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name " Abil EM 90® "by the Company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name" Q2-3225C "or" Q2-5225C "by the Dow Corning Company. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an alkyldimethicone copolyol and particularly the cetyldimethicone copolyol is used. The emulsifier is present in an amount ranging preferably between 0.1 and 10% and better between 0.5 and 5% of the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention can also contain one or more fatty substances selected from silicone waxes or resins, fluorinated oils, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, mineral oils or synthetic oils. As waxes, silicone waxes such as alkoxydimethylsiloxanes, and more particularly stearoxypolydimethylsiloxanes, alkylpolysiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes of mercapto function can be used in particular. As resins, silicone resins such as trimethylsiloxysilicates can be used in particular. In a known manner, the composition of the invention can also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as surfactants, particularly foaming surfactants, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents as well as ascorbic acid, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers, coloring matters and lipid vesicles. The amounts of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the areas considered, and for example from 0.01% to 15% of the total weight of the composition. As hydrophilic active agents, protein or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, starch, hyaluronic acid or plant extracts such as Ginkgo biloba extracts or extracts can be used for example. of Ginseng. As lipophilic active agents, for example, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, and essential oils can be used. As fillers, mention may be made of nylon powder and microspheres (copolymer acrylates). The compositions according to the invention can thus constitute a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. The subject of the invention is also a use of the composition indicated above for a cosmetic treatment of the skin and in particular with a view to toning it, regenerating it, smoothing wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin, lightening the color, removing the spots pigmentation of the skin, and / or to fight against the damages produced by UV radiation, and / or to reinforce the cutaneous tissues against environmental aggressions (contamination). The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition indicated above for the manufacture of a cream intended for dermatological and / or veterinary treatment. Finally, the subject of the invention is a method of cosmetic treatment, which consists of applying a composition according to the invention to the skin, including the eye contour. Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the following examples, which are given by way of illustration and not limitation. EXAMPLE 1: Water in oil emulsion.
Phase A: - Demineralized water 25.05% 20 - Glycerin 24% - Propylene glycol 7% - Preservative 0.2% - Vitamin C 5% - Magnesium sulfate 2% ?. ' - Copolymer acrylates (Microspheres) 0.75% Phase B: DC2 5225C (silicone emulsifier in silicone oil) 8% - Silicone oil 20 cSt 23% - Silicone AK 300000 (silicone rubber) 5 The operative way to prepare this composition is as follows: Prepare each phase separately and introduce phase A in phase B under agitation. You get a white cream, bright and stable. This composition is suitable for smoothing the facial features of the face and for lightening the color.
EXAMPLE 2: Water in oil emulsion Phase A: - Demineralized water 25. 05% - 24% glycerin - Propylene glycol 7% - Preservative 0, 2% - Vitamin C 5% Magnesium sulfate Copolymer acrylates (Microspheres: 0.75 Phase B: 5 - Cetyldimethicone copolyol (Abil EM90) 0.8% - * $ - Silicone oil 20 cSt 23% - Cyclomethicone 7, 2% - AK 300000 (silicone rubber) 5% The operating mode is the same as in the example 1. You get a white cream, bright and stable. This composition is suitable for smoothing the features of the skin and for lightening the color. 15 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2: Water-in-oil emulsion Phase A: - Demineralized water 25. 05% 20 - Glycerin 24% - Propylene glycol 7% - Preservative 0, 2% - Vitamin C 5% - Magnesium sulfate 2% - Acrylates copolymer 0.75 Phase B: - Cetyldimethicone copolyol (Abil EM90) 0.8 - Silicone oil 20 cSt 28 - Cyclomethicone 7.2 The operating mode is the same as in the example A thick cream is obtained, which is unstable and separates rapidly in two phases. EXAMPLE 3: Water in oil emulsion Phase A Demineralized water 20% Glycerin 24% Propylene glycol 13% Vitamin C 5% 2% magnesium sulfate Phase B: - Cetyldimethicone copolyol (Abil EM90) 0.8% - Silicone oil 20 cSt 30.2% - Mirasol DM-50000 (silicone rubber) 5% The operating mode is identical to that of Example 1. A white, stable cream is obtained, suitable for smoothing skin features and for lightening the color.
It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention. Having described the invention as above, property is claimed as contained in the following:

Claims (29)

RE I V I ND I CA C I ONE S
1. Use of a silicone rubber to stabilize the ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts in a topical composition.
2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the silicone rubber is chosen from polydiorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight of between 100,000 and 2,000,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000.
3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the silicone rubber has a viscosity equal to or greater than 0.2 m2 / s and preferably equal to or greater than 0.3 m2 / s.
4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the silicone rubber is selected from among the silicone gums of formula (I) below wherein: R2 represents -CH3, -OH or -C6H5. R3 represents -CH3, -OH, -C6H5 or -OSi (CH3) 3, x = 0 or an integer ey is an integer with the proviso that yoxey are integers such that the weight average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000.
5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicone rubber is selected from dimethicones and di-ethi-nools.
6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicone rubber is used alone or in a mixture with a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils or mixtures thereof.
7. Topical composition in the form of an emulsion characterized in that it comprises ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts, a silicone gum, a siliconized emulsifier and has a pH comprised between 4 and 7.
8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the silicone rubber is selected from polydiorganosiloxanes with a molecular weight of between 100,000 and 2,000,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000.
9. Composition according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the silicone rubber has a viscosity equal to or greater than 0.2 m2 / s and preferably equal to or greater than 0.3 m2 / s.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the silicone rubber is selected from among the silicone gums of formula (I) below: wherein: R2 represents -CH3, -OH or -CeH5. R3 represents -CH3, -OH, -C6H5 or -OSi (CH3) 3, x = 0 or an integer ey is an integer with the proviso that yoxey are integers such that the weight average molecular mass is greater than 100,000, and preferably between 100,000 and 1,500,000.
11. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that the silicone rubber is selected from dimethicones and dimethiconols.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in that the silicone rubber is used alone or in a mixture with a solvent selected from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils or their mixtures.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 12, characterized in that the ascorbic acid or one of its esters or salts is present in a concentration ranging between 0.1 and 20% and preferably between 2 and 10% in weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 13, characterized in that the silicone rubber is present in a concentration of active material ranging between 1 and 20% and preferably between 2 and 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
15. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 14, characterized in that the composition also contains at least one polyol.
16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerin, sorbitol or glycols.
17. Composition according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the polyol is present in a concentration ranging between 5 and 40% and preferably between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
18. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 17, characterized in that it also contains at least one silicone oil.
19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the silicone oil is chosen from the group comprising the volatile silicones, the polydimethylsiloxanes, the polyphenyltrimethylsiloxanes and the fluorinated silicones.
20. Composition according to claim 18 or 19, characterized in that the silicone oil is present in a concentration ranging between 2 and 40%, and preferably between 10 and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 20, characterized in that the emulsifier is a dimethicone copolyol or an alkyldimethicone copolyol.
22. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 21, characterized in that the emulsifier is present in a concentration ranging between 0.1 and 10%, and preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
23. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 22, characterized in that it also contains one or more fatty substances selected from silicone waxes or resins, fluorinated oils, oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, mineral oils or synthetic oils
24. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 23, characterized in that it comprises at least one adjuvant selected from hydrophilic or lipophilic surfactants, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers, the coloring matters and the lipid vesicles.
25. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 24, characterized in that it consists of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.
26. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 25, characterized in that it constitutes a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.
27. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 7 to 25 for a cosmetic treatment of the skin with a view to toning it, and regenerating it, smoothing the wrinkles and / or small wrinkles of the skin, lightening the color, eliminating the pigmentary spots of the skin. the skin, and / or to fight against the damages of the UV radiations, and / or to reinforce the cutaneous weaves against the aggressions of the surroundings.
28. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 7 to 26, for the manufacture of a cream intended for a dermatological and / or veterinary treatment. *
29. Cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that it consists of applying on the skin, including the eye contour, a composition according to any one of claims 7 to 26.
MXPA/A/1999/008695A 1998-09-29 1999-09-22 Use of a silicone rubber to stabilize the ascorbic acid and new compositions which are composed of MXPA99008695A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9812156 1998-09-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
MXPA99008695A true MXPA99008695A (en) 2000-07-01

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