Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965, in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer.[1] He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's strongest competition climbers and sport climber a few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada,[2] Patagonia and Antarctica.
 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | German | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | March 22, 1965 Tittmoning, Bavaria, West Germany | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Retired | 1993 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Updated on 1 April 2013 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Competition climbing
edit- 1985 Sportroccia
- 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master
- Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville
- 1993 Vice World Champion
Notable ascents
edit- In 1994, Glowacz freed Des Kaisers neue Kleider (translated: The Emperor's new Clothes) in the Kaiser Mountains at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world.
- First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada
- In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete the "Alpine Trilogy" of the hardest multi-pitch big wall climbing routes of the Alps (all established in 1994), including Thomas Huber's "End of Silence" (X/8b/5.13d) near Berchtesgaden and Beat Kammerlander's "Silbergeier" ("Silver Vulture") (X/8b/5.13d) in the Rätikon
- In 2006, he was nominated for the Piolet d'Or' for a 27-pitch route (IX+/7c+/5.13a, A2, M4) up the north wall of the Mullarón in Patagonia.
Books, Films
edit- Jäger des Augenblicks
- Richtig Freiklettern
- Rocks around the World
- Hoch hinaus
- Titlis – Chronik einer Erstbegehung, DVD
- The Race, DVD
- On the Rocks - Leben an den Fingerspitzen (2005, Piper)
- Cerro Torre: Scream of the Stone (1991, directed by Werner Herzog), DVD
- Roraima: Climbers of the Lost World (2013, Red Bull)
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ Scott, Chic (2000). Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering. Rocky Mountain Books Ltd. pp. 407–. ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5. Retrieved 27 November 2010.
- ^ George, Caroline (June 27, 2008). "More Details on Baffin's "Long Way Home"". The Alpinist. Retrieved 27 November 2010.