Climbing injuries

The climbers most prone to overuse injuries are intermediate to expert within lead climbing or bouldering, since these disciplines are the most athletic in nature.^[2]

In terms of overuse injuries a British study found that:^[3]

• 40% occurred in the fingers
• 16% in the shoulders
• 12% in the elbows
• 5% in the knees
• 5% in the back
• 4% in the wrists

One injury that tend to be very common among climbers is Carpal tunnel syndrome. It is found in about 25% of climbers.^[4]

604 injured rock climbers were prospectively evaluated from January 1998 to December 2001, due to the rapid growth of new complex finger trauma in the mid-1980s. Of the most frequent injuries, three out of four were related to the fingers: pulley injuries accounted for 20%, tendovaginitis for 7%, and joint capsular damage for 6.1%.^[5]

Damage to the flexor tendon pulleys that encircle and support the tendons that cross the finger joints is the most common finger injury within the sport (see climber's finger).^[4] The main culprit for pulley related injuries is the common crimp grip, especially in the closed position. The crimp grip requires a near ninety-degree flexion of the middle finger joint, which produces a tremendous force load on the A2 pulley. Injuries to the A2 pulley can range from microscopic to partial tears and, in the worst case, complete ruptures. Some climbers report hearing a pop, which might be a sign of a significant tear or complete rupture, during an extremely heavy move (e.g. tiny crimp, one- or two-finger pocket). Small partial tears, or inflammation can occur over the course of several sessions.^[6]

• Grade I – Sprain of the finger ligaments (collateral ligaments), pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing.
• Grade II – Partial rupture of the pulley tendon. Pain locally at the pulley, pain when squeezing or climbing, possible pain while extending your finger.
• Grade III – Complete rupture of the pulley, causing bowstringing of the tendon. Symptoms can include: Pain locally at the pulley (usually sharp), may feel/hear a 'pop' or 'crack', swelling and possible bruising, pain when squeezing or climbing, pain when extending your finger, pain with resisted flexion of the finger.^[7]

Climbers recovering from pulley injuries rely on the RICE protocol: Rest, Ice, Compression, and Elevation. Sufficient rest, ice to reduce swelling, compression for support, and hand elevation collectively foster an ideal healing environment.^[8]

• Stress fractures
• Collateral ligament injuries

Shoulder related injuries include rotator cuff tear, strain or tendinitis, biceps tendinitis and SLAP lesion.^[9]

Tennis elbow (Lateral Epicondylitis) is a common elbow injury among climbers, as is Golfer's elbow (Medial Epicondylitis, which is similar, but occurs on the inside of the elbow).^{[citation needed]}

Climbers often develop calluses on their fingers from regular contact with the rock and the rope. When calluses split open they expose a raw layer of skin that can be very painful. This type of injury is commonly referred to as a flapper.

The use of magnesium carbonate (chalk) for better grip dries out the skin and can often lead to cracked and damaged hands ^[10]

There are a number of skincare products available for climbers that help to treat calluses, moisturize dry hands, and reduce recovery time.

"Any finger injury that is sustained by a young adolescent (12–16) should be seen by a physician and have x-rays performed. These skeletally immature athletes are very susceptible to developing debilitating joint arthritis later in adulthood."^[11]

• Related topics
  • Carpal tunnel syndrome
  • Climber's finger
  • Golfer's elbow
  • Repetitive strain injury
  • Radial tunnel syndrome
  • Tennis elbow
• Lists and glossaries
  • List of climbing topics
  • Climbing terminology
  • Climbing command