Mughlai cuisine

Mughlai cuisine consists of dishes developed or popularised in the early-modern Indo-Persian cultural centres of the Mughal Empire. It represents a combination of cuisine of the Indian subcontinent with the cooking styles and recipes of Central Asian and Islamic cuisine. Mughlai cuisine is strongly influenced by the Turkic cuisine of Central Asia, the region where the early Mughal emperors originally hailed from, and it has in turn strongly influenced the regional cuisines of Northern India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.

The tastes of Mughlai cuisine vary from extremely mild to spicy, and are often associated with a distinctive aroma and the taste of ground and whole spices.^[1] A Mughlai course is an elaborate buffet of main course dishes with a variety of accompaniments.^[2]

History

Although the ruling class and administrative elite of the Mughal Empire could variously identify themselves as Turani (Turkic), Irani (Persian), Shaikhzada (Indian Muslim) and Hindu Rajput, the empire itself was Indo-Persian, having a hybridized, pluralistic Persianate culture. Decorated Indo-Persian cookbooks and culinary manuscripts adorned the personal libraries of the Mughal elite, serving as both culinary guides and for aesthetic value.^[3]

One example was the Nimatnama-i-Nasiruddin-Shahi, a 15th-century work illustrated with Persian miniatures. This was commissioned by Ghiyath Shah, a sultan of Malwa (now in Madhya Pradesh), and features Central Asian dishes such as samosas (fried potato filled pastry), khichri (rice and lentils), pilaf (rice dish), seekh (skewered meat and fish), kabab (skewered, roasted meat) and yakhni (meat broth), as well as western and southern Indian dishes, such as karhi, piccha and khandvi.

From the Mughal period itself, one popular culinary work was the Nuskha-i-Shahjahani, a record of the dishes believed to be prepared for the court of Emperor Shahjahan (r.1627-1658). This Persian manuscript features ten chapters, on nānhā (breads), āsh-hā (pottages), qalīyas and dopiyāzas (dressed meat dishes), bhartas, zerbiryāns (a kind of layered rice-based dish), pulāʾo, kabābs, harīsas (savoury porridge), shishrangas and ḵẖāgīnas (omelette), and khichṛī; the final chapter involves murabbā (jams), achār (pickles), pūrī (fried bread), fhīrīnī (sweets), ḥalwā (warm pudding), and basic recipes for the preparation of yoghurt, panīr (Indian curd cheese) and the coloring of butter and dough.^[4]

Another famous textbook was Ḵẖulāṣat-i Mākūlāt u Mashrūbāt, perhaps dating to the era of the emperor Aurangzeb (r. 1656–1707), while another was Alwān-i Niʿmat, a work dedicated solely to sweetmeats. Divya Narayanan writes:

These include varieties of sweet breads such as nān ḵẖatā̤ʾī (crisp bread, like a biscuit), sweet pūrīs, sweet samosas (or saṃbosas), laḍḍū and ḥalwā. The cookbook introduces each recipe with a line of praise: for instance saṃbosa-i yak tuhī dam dāda (samosa with a pocket cooked on dam) is declared as being ‘among the famous and well-known sweets; pūrī dam dāda bādāmī (almond pūrīs cooked on dam) is said to be ‘among the delicious and excellent sweetmeats, and nān ḵẖatā̤ʾī bādāmī (almond nān ḵẖatā̤ʾī) is noted for being ‘among the rare and delicious recipes.^[5]

There are even many commonalities between Indo-Persian cookbooks used at the Mughal court and contemporary culinary works from Safavid Iran, such as the Kārnāma dar bāb-i Tabākhi wa san'at-e ān "Manual on Dishes and their Preparation" of Muhammad Al' Bāwarchi Baghdādi.

Mughlai cuisine is renowned for the richness and aromaticity of the meals due to extensive use of spices like saffron, cardamom, black pepper, dry fruits and nuts, as well as rich cream, milk and butter in preparation of curry bases. This has influenced the development of North Indian cuisine.^[6]

List of Mughlai dishes

Biryani
Haleem
Korma
Roust
Nihari
Pilaf (first introduced by the Delhi Sultanate or persian traders)
Bakarkhani
Baklava
Aloo gosht (lamb/mutton and potato curry)
Qeema matar (ground-lamb and pea curry)
Kofta
Chorba
Kebab (first introduced during Delhi Sultanate):^[7]
- Tunde ke kabab (soft, tender patty-like kebab first prepared by Haji Murad Ali of Lucknow)
- Bihari kebab (meat-chunks roasted in open flame)
- Kakori kebab (first prepared in Uttar Pradesh, India)
- Chapli kebab (first prepared by Pashtuns in the northwest frontier of India)
- Kalmi kebab
- Seekh kebab
- Shami kebab (first prepared by Syrian cooks in the Mughal era, "Shami" denoting their Syrian origin)
- Shikampur kebab (native to Hyderabad, India)
Mughlai paratha
Murgh musallam
Pasanda
Shawarma
Chicken tikka
Rezala (may have been introduced to Bengal region of Indian subcontinent by the Mughlai sovereigns of Awadh and Mysore)

Desserts

Gulab jamun
Falooda
Seviyan (prepared with milk, clarified butter, vermicelli, rose-water and almonds)
Sharbat
Barfi (derived from the Persian word for 'snow/ice')
Phirni
- Saffron Phirni (rice-based sweet dish streaked with saffron)
- Badami Phirni (rice-based sweet dish with almonds)
Shahi tukra (rich bread pudding with dry fruits and flavored with cardamom)
Sheer khurma
Several varieties of indigenous mangoes were cherished and cultivated by the Mughal court.^[8]

References

^ "Government focusing on boosting exports | DAWN.COM". www.dawn.com. Archived from the original on 29 July 2012. Retrieved 2 February 2022.
^ Sahuliyar, Arti (5 July 2008). "Mughlai cuisine tops popularity charts in capital". The Telegraph. Calcutta. Archived from the original on 26 May 2011.
^ Narayanan, Divya (January 2016). "What Was Mughal Cuisine? : Defining and Analysing a Culinary Culture". Interdisziplinäre Zeitschrift für Südasienforschung. 1: 1–30. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
^ "Table Talk: The emperor's new iftar". Gulf News. Retrieved 17 January 2019.
^ "Readings in a Culinary Culture", Accounting for Taste, University of Chicago Press, 2004, pp. 83–110, doi:10.7208/chicago/9780226243276.003.0004, ISBN 9780226243245
^ "Mughalnama: changing the contours of Mughlai cuisine in India". Outlook India.
^ Mishra, Smita (27 February 2016). "The 1,000 Year History of the Kebab on Your Plate". The Times of India.
^ Pal, Sanchari (7 June 2016). "Food for Thought: Unpeeling the Mango's Interesting History in India". The Better India.

External links

[1] "Government focusing on boosting exports | DAWN.COM". www.dawn.com. Archived from the original on 29 July 2012. Retrieved 2 February 2022.

[2] Sahuliyar, Arti (5 July 2008). "Mughlai cuisine tops popularity charts in capital". The Telegraph. Calcutta. Archived from the original on 26 May 2011.

[3] Narayanan, Divya (January 2016). "What Was Mughal Cuisine? : Defining and Analysing a Culinary Culture". Interdisziplinäre Zeitschrift für Südasienforschung. 1: 1–30. Retrieved 17 January 2019.

[4] "Table Talk: The emperor's new iftar". Gulf News. Retrieved 17 January 2019.

[5] "Readings in a Culinary Culture", Accounting for Taste, University of Chicago Press, 2004, pp. 83–110, doi:10.7208/chicago/9780226243276.003.0004, ISBN 9780226243245

[6] "Mughalnama: changing the contours of Mughlai cuisine in India". Outlook India.

[7] Mishra, Smita (27 February 2016). "The 1,000 Year History of the Kebab on Your Plate". The Times of India.

[8] Pal, Sanchari (7 June 2016). "Food for Thought: Unpeeling the Mango's Interesting History in India". The Better India.

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