Off-the-Beaten Path in Athens, Where Ancient Innovation Meets Modern Culture

Dating back to 3000 BCE, Athens is synonymous with ancient history, democracy, and culturally rich mythology. But this sprawling city, home to 129 neighborhoods across more than 1,000 square miles, has much to offer visitors than just its storied past.

Europe’s oldest capital city is now a living paradox of old meets new, where ancient ruins stand in stark contrast to a buzzing contemporary culture that’s pushing boundaries through its food, art, technology, and design. Formerly industrial areas have been transformed into vibrant social spaces with trendy cafés, bars, and cultural venues that “reflect the city’s artistic spirit,” in the words of Athens-based spatial designer Stavros Sgouros.

While most visitors flock to the Acropolis or the busy streets of Monastiraki and Plaka, there's an overlooked side of Athens that shines brighter than the Parthenon's marble on an August day. In the time that has passed since the 2008 economic crisis, Athens has rebuilt itself, rising from the ashes of a modern Greek tragedy with renewed energy and creativity. In the first half of 2024, over 21.6 million passengers passed through Athens International Airport, a significant increase over the same time period last year and a testament to the city's renaissance.

Most visitors come to Athens with simple goals of wandering the Acropolis and the Parthenon and indulging in traditional dishes like gyro and moussaka. But the heart of Athens beats strongest off the expected tourist path. It’s here, among the lesser-known neighborhoods, where you’ll find the city’s complex and inspiring history still echoing through the streets. If you’re keen to experience Athens like a local, you’ve come to the right place.

See: The panoramic sunset views from Philopappos Hill. Also known as the Hill of the Muses, Philopappos Hill rises gracefully over Athens, just steps away from the city’s iconic landmarks, but it feels like a world of its own. The brief climb to the top is like stepping back in time, with ancient ruins sprinkled along the path.

Touch: The warm sand beneath your feet on a beach along the Athenian Riviera. Tourists often miss Athens' nearby coastline, just a short metro, bus, or tram ride away. In the summer, locals enjoy the hidden gem of the Athenian Riviera, relaxing at beaches like Kavouri or spending evenings visiting Bolivar, a lively beachfront bar. In cooler months, sip coffee by the sea at a café, such as Moorings in Voula.

Smell: Richly scented spices along Evripidou Street. Athens is a sensory feast. Just past the central market is Evripidou Street, where the air is filled with the aromas of freshly ground spices like Greek saffron, thyme, exotic cumin, and cinnamon, along with the savory scent of pastourma (cured and spiced beef). Vendors and spice shops like Bahar, a local staple since 1940 with over 2,500 products, make this fragrant journey one not to be missed.

Hear: Music under the moonlight at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus during Athens Epidaurus Festival or the unmistakable sound of bouzoukia. On the southern slope of the Acropolis, the ancient Herodeon theater hosts the Athens Epidaurus Festival from May to October each year, with performances from opera to ballet under the Athenian night sky. Beyond the summer, head to a bouzoukia, where live music, table dancing, swirling smoke, and thunderous beats fill the air. By morning, you’ll feel like an adopted Athenian.

Taste: A rich tapestry of flavors in a meal at a local tavern in Koukaki. Koukaki, just beyond the historic center, is one of Athens’ best kept secrets for a traditional Greek meal. “Koukaki has modernized over the years,” says Maria Filindras, who grew up in the area, "but the heart of the neighborhood, the connection to its food and community, is still the same." It’s the perfect spot to enjoy real Greek flavors away from the crowds, while still staying close to the city’s heart.

The first European Capital of Culture in 1985, Athens is swiftly transforming into a cultural hub where ancient legacies intertwine with a vibrant, gritty modern scene. Whether you’re interested in classical art or provocative urban graffiti, the city offers an authentic experience for every traveler eager to feel its creative pulse.

While the Acropolis and its museum are essential for any Hellenophile, the privately owned Benaki Museum in the upscale Kolonaki neighborhood is often overlooked and features a comprehensive collection of Greek art from prehistoric times to today. Alternatively, visit the National Gallery, showcasing 1,000 paintings from the post-Byzantine era to modern Greece. For contemporary Greek art, Athens has numerous micro art galleries, particularly concentrated in Kifissia and Metaxourgeio.

Music and theater are integral to Greek culture, celebrating ancient legacies and contemporary voices across generations. While summer days in Athens can be long and hot, locals eagerly await sunset, flocking to venues for live performances like the ancient Odeon of Herodes Atticus open-air theater and Technopolis, a late 19th-century gasworks facility transformed into a vibrant cultural complex.

Bibliophiles will delight in Athens' independent bookshops. Lexikopoleio in Pangrati is a welcoming store with books in various languages and literary events. Evripidis in Chalandri spans four floors of global literature and was featured in Pan MacMillan’s list of beautiful bookstores worldwide in 2018.

8:30 am - Make your way to Pangrati for a modern Greek brunch at Ohh Boy. Greeks are known for their exceptional dishes, and breakfast is no exception. In the artsy neighborhood of Pangrati, Ohh Boy stands out as one of the best new spots in the city for a scrumptious, slow breakfast, featuring a delightful array of sweet and savory options, along with plenty of vegan choices. Indulge your sweet tooth with irresistible banoffee pie, and don’t miss the zucchini and corn pancakes as a savory main.

10 am - Dive into Athens' multifaceted urban landscape with a street art tour. Explore Athens’ vibrant neighborhoods and their intricate social fabric on a street art tour with Alternative Athens. This immersive experience offers a unique perspective on the city today, allowing you to look beyond the city’s ancient monuments and uncover the contemporary narratives that shape its modern identity.

12 pm - Take a sightseeing tour through Athens. On the other hand, who wants to do all that walking? Cover more ground with a scenic Athens Hop on Hop Off & Souvlaki Lunch tour aboard a double-decker get-on get-off bus. The tour will head to iconic historic sites like the Acropolis and Parthenon, as well as the picturesque Plaka and Monastiraki neighborhoods and private harbors including the Mikrolimano and the Zea Marina (Pasalimani). *presented by Norwegian Cruise Line

1:30 pm - Wander through antiquity at the National Archaeological Museum. Avoid the swarming crowds at the Acropolis Museum and instead, visit the National Archaeological Museum, home to one of the world’s largest collections of ancient and prehistoric art. Be sure to check out the famous Mask of Agamemnon, a remarkable gold mask unearthed at Mycenae, thought to represent the legendary king himself. Another highlight is the Antikythera Mechanism, a 2,000-year-old device considered by many to be the world’s first computer.

3 pm - Savor contemporary Greek tavern cuisine at Rozalia in the bohemian heart of Exarcheia. For dinner, head to the avant-garde, alternative neighborhood of Exarcheia, just a five-minute walk from the National Archaeological Museum. This underappreciated area, known for its rich anarchist history dating back to the 1940s, is home to Rozalia, celebrated for its exceptional mezze (small plates) set within an atmospheric, traditional garden, allowing you to savor a wide variety of dishes. The star of the show is the house moussaka, served and baked in clay pots.

9 pm - Catch a movie under the stars at Cine Thisio. Since 1904, Athenian locals have enjoyed films in open-air cinemas surrounded by seasonal blooms of deep purple and pink, a starlit sky, and a gentle breeze. Cine Thisio, along Apostolou Pavlou in the neoclassical Thisio neighborhood, stands out with its stunning views of the Acropolis and its renowned homemade sour cherry drink. Tickets are available only at the box office, so arrive early to secure yours.

In Athens, food is more than sustenance; it’s a way of life. The moment you arrive in the Greek capital, you'll feel the city pulse with culinary traditions. For locals, a day often revolves around eating and drinking, creating moments to be shared with family and friends. And while traditional fare remains a cornerstone, Athens has evolved into a vibrant hub of fusion cuisine, offering a diverse array of flavors.

Flavors and vibes vary by neighborhood. Psirri and Thiseio are rich in authentic Greek cuisine, while Koukaki and Pangrati offer a slower pace with fewer tourists. For a deeper connection to the city’s culinary heritage through the lens of a local, try a cooking class or join a food tour like the beloved Athens Food on Foot.

Once the sun sets, Athens comes alive, showcasing its talent in mixology and oenology. While Greek wines may not be as renowned as their Italian peers, they offer unique flavors worth exploring. The area around the ancient necropolis of Keramikos, along with the lively district of Gazi, boast an artsy, LGBTQ+-friendly atmosphere filled with impressive cocktail bars. Whether you’re a purist eager to sample hidden gems or looking to dive into expertly alchemized cocktails, you’ve come to the right place.

10 am - Sip a freddo cappuccino and grab a pastry from Kora Bakery. Start your day with a freddo cappuccino and modern Greek pastries at Kora Bakery in Kolonaki. Don’t miss the must-try rye cinnamon roll, and if you’re craving something heartier, their focaccia sandwiches are perfect, with olive oil rich focaccia that’s crisp on the outside, soft inside, and filled with seasonal ingredients like roasted vegetables, artisan cheeses, and savory cured meats.

12 pm - Get lost amongst the smells, sounds, and sights of the Varvakios Agora (Athens Central Market). Just a short walk from breakfast, Varvakios Agora, or Athens Central Market, is a foodie pilgrimage site. Established in 1884, the market lets you lose yourself in its vast, storied halls, soaking it all in. Check out Spyros Korakis’ stall in the fish market for a sampling of avgotaraho (Greek cured fish roe), and for a pre-lunch bite across from the meat market, Karayiannis serves up marinated anchovies and spicy lamb meatballs, the perfect mezze.

1:30 pm - Take a cooking class at The Greek Kitchen. Skip the restaurant lunch and head to The Greek Kitchen in Monastiraki, where four friends teach you generations-old recipes. The class starts with sourcing fresh ingredients and ends with making classic dishes such as dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), spanakopita (spinach pie), and portokalopita (a traditional orange syrup cake).

3 pm - Dive into the world of Greek oenology at Athens Wine Tasting. With a full belly and new tricks, it’s time to explore Greek wines and learn how to pair your dishes. Just a 10-minute walk from The Greek Kitchen, Athens Wine Tasting offers an experience tasting wines from across Greece, guided by a certified expert who shares their history from ancient times to today.

9 pm - Dinner at Linou Soumpasis k sia in Psirri. This spot is one of the culinary highlights of Psirri, a former industrial area now vibrant with local creatives and food enthusiasts. The modern taverna offers Greek classics with a contemporary twist, like their Greek salad featuring creamy Greek brie and a standout lamb tagliata.

While central Athens is vibrant, the suburbs, known as "proastia," offer a quintessential escape into local life. Each neighborhood reveals authentic experiences away from tourist crowds, allowing you to uncover hidden gems and gain a deeper understanding of Athens beyond its busy center.

Start by taking the metro southwest to Piraeus, the original capital of modern Greece. This port neighborhood, with its working-class roots, is in the midst of a glow-up driven by local creatives. For contemporary art, visit Rodeo, an art gallery featuring Greek and international talent. If you want a classic tavern experience, don't miss Stoa Rakadiko.

Travel further south by bus or tram to the glamorous Athenian Riviera, which includes Vari, Voula, and Vouliagmeni. This stretch features pristine sandy beaches like Zen Beach and unpretentious taverns such as Kavouri’s Agora, which serves fresh Mediterranean dishes with a sea breeze. Local artist Sofia Pyrrou notes, "Vouliagmeni feels like home, but Kavouri has a special pull, a calm that clears my mind and fills me with inspiration to create." Glyfada stands out as the commercial hub of the southern suburbs, buzzing with energy as locals and occasional celebrities gather to unwind, especially at sunset.

On the city’s northern edge, a quick northbound metro ride away from the center, the suburbs offer a quieter atmosphere with an elegant charm. If you’re seeking leafy surroundings, scenic hikes, and impressive meals, Kifissia is the place to be.

10 am - Unwind in the thermal waters of Lake Vouliagmeni. Either take a 40-minute taxi (around €30) or hop on the metro’s red line to Elliniko then take the 122 bus directly to Lake Vouliagmeni. Begin your day by soaking in the healing waters of this unique lake formed over 2,000 years ago.

12 pm - Lunch at a seaside tavern in Voula. After basking in the sun at one of Athens’ distinct natural wonders, take the 122 bus to Kavouri in Voula for lunch at a seaside tavern. The pedestrian pathway along Kavouri beach offers panoramic Mediterranean views and a variety of restaurants. For an affordable option, Tripia Varka satisfies seafood and ouzo cravings with its laid-back atmosphere, while Garbi, a local staple since 1924, serves up succulent seafood dishes.

1:30 pm - Discover local conservation at The Sea Turtle Rescue Centre. Get hands-on with turtle conservation at The Sea Turtle Rescue Centre in Glyfada, just a 10-minute taxi ride or 20-minute bus from Kavouri. Tour the facility where injured sea turtles are rehabilitated before returning to the sea, supporting their survival since the 1980s.

3 pm - Explore the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. “More than just a cultural venue, the SNFCC is an exemplary fusion of modern architecture and sustainable design.” says Sgouros. Hop on the T7 tram along the coast to the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, where you can explore the expansive park, discover engaging exhibitions, enjoy panoramic views and delve into the rich collection at the National Library of Greece. The library includes over 4,500 ancient Greek texts, early works by Homer, and the impressive Byzantine dictionary The Large Etymological.

9 pm - Taste wines and small plates at Paleo Wine Store in Piraeus. Finish your day by taking the tram to Piraeus, Athens' energetic port neighborhood. Head to Paleo Wine Store, an extraordinary wine bar in a former tobacco storage facility, offering exceptional Mediterranean small plates and one of the largest wine lists you'll encounter.

Greece uses the euro (EUR) and, as of October 2024, $1 exchanges to .91€. Unlike many other southern European and Balkan countries, the majority of shops and restaurants in Greece accept credit cards, so don’t worry about exchanging cash.

When traveling to Greece, you'll need a Type C or Type F travel adapter, which features two round pins. Greece operates on a voltage of 230V and a frequency of 50Hz, so ensure your devices are compatible, or bring a voltage converter.

Athens often tops summer travel lists, but autumn and winter have their own unique charm, allowing you to enjoy the city’s rich history and culture without the crowds. Late spring offers warm weather and fewer tourists, making it perfect for swimming and a more authentic experience. The summer showcases Athens’ buzzing atmosphere and sun-soaked allure.

Do take advantage of Athens’ efficient public transportation system, and try to avoid taxi rides in the city center due to relentless traffic. If visiting in summer, heed heat warnings and stay hydrated, as heat-related hospitalizations are on the rise.

Don’t assume shops and restaurants will stay open late; many close early, especially in the off-season, so plan ahead. Most supermarkets are closed on Sundays, which can catch visitors off guard.

Beneath Athens lies a hidden web of tunnels, some dating back to ancient times, used over the centuries as drainage systems, aqueducts, WWII bomb shelters, and even secret smuggling routes. Today, only a few entrances are accessible, such as the Makrigianni Site beneath the Acropolis Museum, but these buried passageways reveal layers of history that most tourists (and even locals) don’t know exist.

Want more Thrillist? Follow us on Instagram, TikTok, Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest, and YouTube.