The Colorado Mountain Town Hiding the Highest Botanical Garden in the U.S.

Unlike many ski towns that started out as mining towns, Vail was purpose-built as a ski area, with a village at the base of the mountain designed after villages in the Alps. But Vail is way more than just a ski town. Ornate Bavarian-style buildings line Vail Village, giving the town a distinctly European feel—at least as far as the architecture goes. Vail was started by two friends and avid skiers, Peter Seibert and Earl Eaton, combining Eagle-native Eaton’s knowledge of the local mountains with Seibert’s love of European ski culture. As the popularity grew, the area expanded with the addition of Lionshead Village and residential homes in West Vail.

The same mountain that made Vail such a popular ski destination along with the nearby rivers also make Vail a great year-round destination. Summers in Vail are almost as busy as the winter season with festivals and events seemingly every weekend. The less-crowded shoulder seasons are perfect for hiking, biking and fly fishing. The community puts on free concerts and art shows throughout the year, and they’ve also built a botanical garden right in this mountain town.

The 96-mile drive on I-70W from Denver to Vail takes you through some scenic parts of the foothills of the Rocky Mountains and into Eisenhower-Johnson Tunnel, the highest point of the Interstate Highway system, so the trip will be worth it from start to finish.

1.5 hours from Denver

At 8,200 feet above sea level, the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens is not only the highest botanical garden in the United States, but it is also the country’s only alpine garden, dedicated to preserving alpine plants and their habitats. The garden was founded by local horticulturists in 1985 and it was named in honor of first lady Betty Ford, who frequented Vail with her husband, former president Gerald Ford.
The terraced botanical garden grows both native Colorado plants and alpine plants from around the world, from Caucasus to South Africa. Summer is the most colorful time of year in the garden, with blooming Swiss edelweiss, Himalayan blue poppies, and much more. The aspen trees provide a golden backdrop in the fall. Snowshoe around the garden in the winter for some serenity, interrupted only by a few wildlife in search of food.
The garden is open year-round and is free to visit, although donations are appreciated. While small, there is an education center on site that hosts exhibits and workshops.

Other than the obvious skiing and snowboarding in the winter, the rest of the year offers no shortage of outdoor activities. Spring and summer is the time to hit the rivers on whitewater rafting trips with higher water levels and faster river flow. The surrounding area offers everything from mellow trips on the Eagle River to Class V rapids in Gore Canyon. For a much more mellow activity in the water, Gore Creek and Eagle River offer some nice fly fishing opportunities.
Fall is a great time to go hiking or biking in Vail, as the temperatures cool down. The 5 Senses Trail at Vail Nature Center is an easy, family-friendly stroll along Gore Creek. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a challenge, hike the Berry Picker trail which goes from the base to the top of the gondola at Lionshead Village. It’s a 2,224 feet elevation gain over 3.3 miles but on the plus side, if you hike all the way up you can take the gondola down for free.

There’s only one museum in Vail, but it’s a great one for ski/snowboard lovers and World War II enthusiasts: the Colorado Snowsports Museum and Hall of Fame. The museum displays exhibits on the history of skiing, snowboarding and Vail itself.
One of Vail’s founders, Peter Seibert, served in the 10th Mountain Division during World War II. The division was established to train soldiers in alpine warfare and Seibert trained as a ski trooper at Camp Hale in Colorado, which is when he first became familiar with Colorado mountains. Because of this connection to Vail, the museum also has an exhibit about this ski division during World War II.

Breakfast: If the morning calls for a hearty, greasy-spoon kind of breakfast, head to The Little Diner in Lionshead Village. The family-owned spot is known for their Dutch baby pancakes alongside classic diner fare.

Dinner: For dinner, Sweet Basil is one not to miss. A Vail mainstay since 1977, Sweet Basil offers creative and globally inspired dishes. The whipped feta with carta di musica (a light and thin cracker) is a staple here, though the condiments that accompany the dish change seasonally.
The team behind Sweet Basil also runs Mountain Standard, which offers a more casual dining experience with a menu centered around open wood fire. The menu also changes seasonally, except for the buttermilk sea salt biscuits with Benton’s ham and pepper jelly which they could never take off the menu.

Drinks: There are plenty of libations around Vail’s two villages as well, from local brews at Vail Brewing Company to unique infused spirits (blue cheese spirit, anyone?) at Archetype Distillery. Root & Flower offers an interesting wine-by-the-glass list and thoughtfully crafted cocktails, but for those looking for a swanky lounge, the Moon Rabbit speakeasy at Chasing Rabbits is the place to head to for post-dinner drinks.

Since Vail is a popular ski destination, there are plenty of lodging options to choose from.
Many of the hotels offer shuttle service and with the regular (and free) bus service in town, it’s easy enough to get around without a car no matter where you stay. Grand Hyatt Vail is a safe bet for those looking for the luxury resort experience with good dining options on property.

There are also condo-style lodgings like Antlers at Vail that are more affordable and come with a full kitchen for those who want to prepare their own meals. For those who don’t, Antlers’ chef can prepare meals from breakfast to dinner and deliver them to the guest’s unit.

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