How to Hang Drywall: Simple Steps for Beginners

Installing drywall, also known as sheetrock, rock, or wallboard, is an important part of building a house. Before the widespread use of drywall, it would take a lot of time to build a foundation that would hold paint or wallpaper. Now, you can easily install your own drywall in hours (depending on how large the room is). To help cover the entire process from start to finish, we spoke with three professional drywallers and construction experts to see how the job is done right.

Drywall Installation 101

With the studs exposed, start at a corner on the ceiling. Drive at least 5 nails or screws through the center-most stud before securing the corners. Hang the remaining drywall, tape the seams, and use drywall compound to cover the tape. Sand, prime, and paint and you’re done!

Section 1 of 7:

Measuring & Buying Your Drywall

Download Article

1
Measure your space to see how much drywall you need. Use a measuring tape to calculate the square footage of each wall that you’re working with. Then, determine how many 4'x8' (or 4'x12') sheets of drywall you need to cover the space.^{[1]
X
Research source}
- You can also use a drywall calculator to determine how many sheets of drywall you’ll need.
- Don’t worry about fitting the walls perfectly—you’ll cut a few sheets of drywall to fill in any oddly-sized gaps or edges.
Contact your local building supply store and order the drywall. Unless you choose some other arrangement, they’ll deliver the drywall to your location on pallets.^{[2]
X
Research source} Some notes on buying drywall:

Advertisement
3
Buy the right kind of drywall for the environment. Pick whichever variety fits the environment it will be installed in. For instance, there are various moisture-resistant products commonly called "green rock" that are designed for installation in high-moisture areas such as garages and bathrooms. Check your local building supply store before committing to purchase.^{[3]
X
Research source}
- Drywall typically comes in 4'x8' sheets. Larger 4'x12' sheets are available but are harder to work with and are usually used by professionals with a few extra hands.
- Thicknesses range from 1/4"-5/8," with 1/2" being the most popular. The 1/4" sheets are often used as overlays to existing drywall and are not intended to be used in new construction. Check your local building code for requirements in your area.

Section 2 of 7:

Prepping Your Walls

Download Article

1
Get rid of the old drywall and clean up your space. Use a crowbar, hacksaw, and whatever other tools you’ve got around to remove all old drywall, nails, screws, and anything else that will prevent the new drywall sheets from laying flat on the studs. Wear a dust mask and protective eyewear while doing this to avoid breathing in any drywall dust or irritating your eyes.^{[4]
X
Research source}
- Warning: Do not damage the studs behind the drywall. Unless the building is centuries old, you can (and should) keep the studs.
2
Inspect your studs to make sure they’re straight and undamaged. Drywall specialist Ryan Owsiany says that you must check that loose blocking, moisture damage, termites, or other problems will not make installation a problem. Don't be surprised to find steel studs instead of wood. Steel studs are generally a good thing since steel provides added strength, and is termite-proof and fire-retardant. The only difference with steel is that you'll have to use drywall screws instead of nails when hanging the drywall.^{[5]
X
Expert Source

Ryan Owsiany
Drywall & Painting Specialist

Expert Interview. 20 May 2021.}
- If the studs are damaged and any of the walls are load bearing, contact a professional contractor who specializes in framing and foundations to have them take a look and repair the issue. If the walls aren’t load-bearing, you can try re-framing the wall yourself.
- Inspect the insulation that is stapled to the studs. Use Kraft tape to repair tears in the paper backing to maximize your energy efficiency.
- Use triple-expanding foam to seal cracks and gaps on exterior walls you spot after taking the drywall down.

Section 3 of 7:

Installing Drywall on the Ceiling

Download Article

1
Plan to start at a corner and place a piece so it ends on a joist. Never leave an end piece of drywall unsupported. The end piece of drywall should always be screwed down to a strapping piece or joist.^{[6]
X
Research source}
- If your drywall does not end on a strapping piece or joist, try this:
  - Measure to the center of the farthest support piece the drywall gets to and transfer that measurement to the drywall.
  - Place a T-square along the line in your drywall and run a razor along that straight line created by the T-square.
  - Break the end piece off from the scoring line.
  - Double-check the end of the drywall makes it to the center of the strapping piece or joist.
- Trust us. Start with the ceiling. You may be tempted to skip the ceiling and do the walls first, but the ceilings are the biggest pain and if you do the walls first, you could accidentally damage them as you work. Always get the ceiling out of the way first.
2
Run a bead of glue down each joist where drywall will be placed. Do this right before you intend to hang the drywall. Any kind of construction adhesive will work for this. Load your caulk gun with the adhesive and pull the trigger as you apply the adhesive to each board.^{[7]
X
Research source}
- You don’t need a ton of glue. It’ll just serve as a backup in the event that the nails or screws begin to come loose.
3
Hoist the drywall panel up onto the ceiling, starting at a corner. You want the edges to be perpendicular to the strapping or joist and tight against the wall. Lift the drywall with both hands and orient the piece against the joists in the ceiling.^{[8]
X
Research source}
- This is a lot easier if you have a helper to assist in bracing the panel as you work.
- The strapping/joists are the wood beams in your ceilings and walls. They frame your home and give the walls structure.
- If you’re going to cover a huge ceiling, consider buying or renting a drywall lift to make holding the drywall up much easier.
4
Drive five screws, in a single line, across the middle of the drywall piece and into a single strapping or joist. Repeat this process for each strapping or joist underneath the drywall.^{[9]
X
Research source}
- Make sure the five screws are evenly spaced along the strapping or joist.
- Leave ¹⁄₂ inch (1.3 cm) buffer zones on edges when driving screws. Do not screw too close to the edge of the drywall.
- Drive the screw heads down past the top of the drywall, but not so deep that they break through the surface.
Keep going until one row of the ceiling has been completely covered. Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row, but make sure the end joints of the drywall offset the first row by at least 4 feet (1.2 m).^{[10]
X
Research source}

Section 4 of 7:

Hanging Drywall on the Walls

Download Article

Mark the location of all studs using a stud finder. Don't trust that your studs will all be on 16" or 24" centers, as they are supposed to be. Some studs are 1/2" off in either direction, sometimes due to sloppy carpentry work by the builder. If you’d like, run masking tape along the floor while you have the studs exposed and mark the center line of each stud with a high visibility marker.^{[11]
X
Research source}
2
Confirm your first piece will sit on two studs. Again, it's likely that you will have to cut some pieces of drywall in order to center the end pieces onto a stud.^{[12]
X
Research source}
- When cutting drywall, use a T-square and razor knife to score a line on one side of the drywall paper. Place your knee on the opposite side of the cut and quickly pull the drywall piece towards you while at the same time pushing your knee outward, snapping the drywall in a clean line. Clean up the remaining paper along the newly formed crease with your razor.
Do this right before you intend to hang the drywall. Again, any kind of construction adhesive will work.^{[13]
X
Research source}
4
Hoist the drywall up and drive five screws in the stud at the center. Start in the center and work outwards. Drive in five screws for each stud.^{[14]
X
Research source}
- Extra screws may help in some situations, but are usually overkill; they will require extra mudding and sanding that may detract from the overall finish.
- Consider using a spring-loaded drywall screw dimpler. They are designed to automatically countersink each drywall screw to precisely the same depth before ratcheting the screw bit, as a sign to quit and back off the drill.
5
Use a drywall saw to make cuts along irregular openings such as arches. Continue installing drywall over window and door openings. You'll be able to trim off excess drywall later. At the same time, be mindful that no seams line up with a door or window corner, and do not fasten panels to framing around openings yet.^{[15]
X
Research source}
- When installing drywall over protruding pipes, place the drywall against the pipe and lightly tap with a flat block of wood to dimple the back. Next, pull the drywall away and use a drywall circle cutter or drywall hole saw to cut a perfect hole along the dimple. This should be much easier to finish than if you punch out a large hole that requires 3 to 4 coats of mud to finish.
Start the next row at the edge of the wall, next to the previous row.^{[16]
X
Research source}
Fasten the drywall down around the window or door, and then cut out the proper section using a rotary drill or drywall saw.^{[17]
X
Research source}

Section 5 of 7:

Taping & Mudding the Seams

Download Article

Mix your initial coat of drywall compound, or mud, to the consistency of sour cream. Sam Adams, the owner of a construction and design firm, explains that you must apply mud directly over the seam. Allowing the consistency to be a bit runnier than normal will allow the tape to bond well with the mud.^{[18]
X
Expert Source

Sam Adams
Professional Contractor

Expert Interview. 4 June 2019.}
Adams continues to point out that you don't have to worry about getting it perfect the first time through; you'll wipe off the excess after you apply the tape. Make sure you cover the seam entirely.^{[19]
X
Expert Source

Sam Adams
Professional Contractor

Expert Interview. 4 June 2019.}
3
Put drywall tape over the entire joint you applied the mud to. Use your 6" or 8" drywall putty knife to flatten the tape, starting at one end and pulling towards you in one smooth motion.^{[20]
X
Research source}
- Have your drywall tape pre-cut and lightly dampened with clean water. You don't need to soak it down too much.
- Some contractors avoid the perforated and fiber tapes, as they don't produce a flawless finish and require gobs of extra mud and sanding to get the job done right. Do what works best for you and fits your budget.
Wipe off excess mud so the surface of the seam is smooth and flattened.^{[21]
X
Research source}
A few bubbles may pop up immediately after you apply the mud. Wet your blade and flatten the bubbles out with another swipe if needed. Adams says that the joint compound must be “smooth and uniform” to do this right.^{[22]
X
Expert Source

Sam Adams
Professional Contractor

Expert Interview. 4 June 2019.}
6
Tape and mud your corners carefully for sharp edges. For corner beads, consider using a corner tool that is available for both inside and outside corners. Adams says this will give your job a professional finish.^{[23]
X
Expert Source

Sam Adams
Professional Contractor

Expert Interview. 4 June 2019.}
- Apply mud and tape in a similar manner. Apply a liberal amount of compound. If it isn't already, crease your tape perfectly in the center and reinforce the crease a couple of times. Apply the tape so that the center of the crease fits directly into the corner of the wall. Wipe away excess compound with your drywall knife.
7
Apply at least two to three more coats using a slightly wider putty knife for each application. Let the mud dry between each coat. It will bubble if you rush it!
- Many thin coats of mud will give you better results, but patience is required to let it dry.
- Don't apply any mud over freshly taped joints. Allow them to thoroughly dry for one day between coats unless you are using hot mud that will dry in an hour. A great idea is to use pink mud that dries white, indicating it is ready for another coat.
8
Apply a small coat of compound over each screw. You shouldn't notice any edges after screening the mud over a joint line or screw dimple. Make sure to hold the blade flat against the drywall and pull it towards you in smooth but firm strokes. Practice on an old piece of drywall to refine your technique.^{[24]
X
Research source}
- Screed some mud over any small imperfections in the drywall that may occur during installation such as missed nail/screw holes.
Continue to mud and clean up all of the joints in the room where you’re working. When you’re done, give the drywall 24-48 hours to completely dry.^{[25]
X
Research source}

Section 6 of 7:

Sanding & Finishing

Download Article

Wait until the final coat has dried. Don't get carried away and sand until you expose the paper. This step goes quickly because the mud will sand off easily.^{[26]
X
Research source}
Again, caution is key here. A quick couple of scrapes over the joints is all you need.
The light will help you spot imperfections. Circle any problem areas with the pencil. Use a sponge sander or hand sander to briefly hit any flawed areas.
Construction and design specialist James Mansfield explains that you must apply a coat of primer to the walls and then sand the entire area lightly using a pole sander. Although most beginners skip this step, it's critical for getting a nice, even finish and for avoiding fuzzy paper residue and fluff left over from the initial sanding.^{[27]
X
Expert Source

James Mansfield
Construction & Design Specialist

Expert Interview. 13 May 2021.}
Mansfield recommends not sanding so hard that you end up peeling up the tape or damaging the drywall. If this happens, apply some more mud and re-sand it when it dries. Once you’ve got a smooth, uniform surface, prime and paint your walls.^{[28]
X
Expert Source

James Mansfield
Construction & Design Specialist

Expert Interview. 13 May 2021.}

Section 7 of 7:

DIY vs. Hiring a Crew: Which Is Right for Me?

Download Article

If you’re handy already, we recommend giving this a shot. Drywall installation is not easy. Drywall on its own is very heavy, and even if you have help, it’s easy to accidentally mess up a seam. If you’re a handy person who knows their way around a toolbox, you can totally do it yourself. Just take your time and don’t rush the work. If you aren’t super handy, you probably want to hire someone.^{[29]
X
Research source}
- Expect to spend $1,000-8,000 paying a professional drywall crew if you don’t want to do it yourself.
- If you want to test your hand, try driving a hole in the drywall in your least used closet and try patching it yourself to see how it turns out!

Expert Q&A

Search

Add New Question

Question

What tools do I need for working with drywall?

James Mansfield
Construction & Design Specialist
James Mansfield is a Construction and Design Specialist and the CEO of WestVillage General Contracting, a high-end and luxury design/build firm in New York City. James specializes in apartment, bathroom, and kitchen remodeling as well as fine cabinetry, lighting, paint, and wallpaper. James has developed a proprietary system of construction called the Luxury Build Method that hinges on a skilled team, respected partnerships, and clear, transparent communication. WestVillage GC has completed more than 500 commercial and residential projects in New York with designers such as David Scott Interiors and Fox Nahem, Kelly Behun. WestVillage GC is also a preferred contractor for Related buildings including Hudson Yards.

James Mansfield

Construction & Design Specialist

Expert Answer

Use a dedicated sheetrock gun—it works on pressure, so the bit won't spin until you put pressure on the screw. Also, go with a cordless drill—you won't get caught up in the cable and it's a lot easier. You also need a good quality framing square, lots of sharp knives, and an accurate laser tape measure.

Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
Thank you for your feedback.
If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
Yes No

Not Helpful 0 Helpful 2
Question

How do I finish 'blunt' edges?

Community Answer

After the tape has dried, run drywall mud about a quarter inch deep on both sides of the tape. Use paper tape -- mesh will crack on the butts. Let it dry, sand out the lap marks and reapply the mud two more times, sanding between coats.

Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
Thank you for your feedback.
If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
Yes No

Not Helpful 7 Helpful 11
Question

Can drywall be used in an unheated cottage?

Community Answer

Sure, as long as you don't insulate the cottage and thereby trap moisture and breed mold. Personally, I'd install cement board instead, as it is stronger and won't be affected by humidity. Either way, do it right. The only right way to install anything on the walls is vertically or parallel with studs, joists, or rafters if framed conventionally.

Thanks! We're glad this was helpful.
Thank you for your feedback.
If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow
Yes No

Not Helpful 9 Helpful 8