WO2001062218A1

WO2001062218A1 - Composition for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing an imperata extract, in particular an imperata cylindrica l extract

Info

Publication number: WO2001062218A1
Application number: PCT/FR2001/000124
Authority: WO
Inventors: Karl Lintner
Original assignee: Sederma
Priority date: 2000-02-23
Filing date: 2001-01-15
Publication date: 2001-08-30
Also published as: AU2001231902A1; FR2805161A1; FR2805161B1

Abstract

The invention concerns compositions for cosmetic or dermatopharmaceutical use containing, in sufficient amount, an Imperata plant extract, in particular, Imperata cylindrica L. Said cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions are advantageously used for maintaining skin elasticity at its maximum level through a high and long-lasting hydrating effect (due to high potassium concentrations in said extracts), thereby enabling to provide powerful anti-wrinkle effect countering, in the skin, harmful effects from ageing, pollution and other physical or chemical attacks; hair tonus through their high sulphur content, in the form of dimethylsulphopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, of said extracts.

Description

TITLE: Compositions for cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical use containing an Imperata extract, in particular ά Imperata cyhndrica L. Current living conditions subject organisms to all kinds of aggressions, sound, physical and chemical in particular The skin constituting the only interface between the individual and the outside world, it is obvious that this organ is the first bodily element affected by chemical aggressions, better known as pollution in general and atmospheric pollution in particular To the harmful effects of this pollution on our skin are added those, just as bad, which come from our way of life and which participate more or less in the pollution undergone, among which we can cite, without this list being limiting air conditioning, the gases of combustion of automobile or industrial fuels, l unbalanced diet, stress, alcohol, tobacco These attacks are also harmful, and their traces are very sibles, on the hair, the appearance and tomcity of which concerns both men and women

In the skin, these permanent attacks, from which it is almost impossible to escape continuously and effectively, result mainly in abnormal drying, loss of flexibility and therefore, in early aging The hair, meanwhile, becomes more brittle, less hot and losing their scale

It is therefore in the logic of the cosmetic and dermo-pharmaceutical industries to develop products which help the skin to better withstand, even to correct and / or repair, the harmful effects of this chemical pollution. of this present patent, lies in the discovery that extracts Imper 'Imperata, in particular of Imperata cyhndrica L, when they are correctly produced and standardized are capable of bringing an answer to the previous problems. Imperata cyhndrica L is a plant of the family of grasses which are found in regions as distant as Asia or the Floπde Its cultivation is very frequent and well mastered by local populations who use it as an alternative source of salt or as food

Its regular production, in terms of quantity and quality in terms of its composition, is therefore easily compatible with large-scale industrial positioning. Its use in the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical field is not documented and it seems that only empirical uses in the field health can be found, for example, against nephritis (CN 1179960), against leukemia (CN1 188012), against venereal disease (CN1136925), against obstruction of the fallopian tubes (CN1131024), against prostate disease ( CN1099987).

Furthermore, a patent (JP2289193) describes obtaining pulp & Imperata cyhndrica L by its heat treatment in an alkaline medium.

We have discovered that, compared to plants in general, Imperata cyhndrica L. contains high concentrations of potassium and sulfur, mainly in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) as well as in the form of sulpholipids.

DMSP is an osmoprotective which allows plants to resist frost and drought (Cost action 829 of the European Program 1998, page 7)

To maintain skin hydration at its best level, the skin must be given the means to maintain its physiological characteristics for as long as possible.

The means that we have discovered, justifying this patent application, consists in maintaining the best possible ratio between the intra cellular and extra cellular water concentrations which is remarkably constant under normal physiological conditions.

This stability is obtained by the perpetual transmembrane exchange between potassium ions and sodium, this being done passively and actively by means of a transporter like ATPase Na / K with a stoichiometry of 2 incoming K ⁺ ions for 3 Na ions ⁺ outgoing. Indeed, as the K ⁺ ion is more concentrated inside the cell

(130 to 140 mmol / 1) than outside (4.5 mmol / 1) while the situation is opposite for the Na ⁺ ion (respectively 14 to 18 mmol / 1 and 150 mmol / 1), this exchange requires an expenditure of energy in the form of ATP.

By maintaining the constant osmotic forces on both sides of the cell membrane, this perpetual ion exchange promotes the passage of water and maintains the maintenance of cell volume at its normal level, thus guaranteeing the suppleness and appearance of the skin. smooth.

By different mechanisms, the dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids of the extracts of Imperata cyhndrica L. make it possible to prolong the shine and the volume of the hair with sulfur, an element whose essential character for the strength and vitality of the hair is well known and secondly structural lipids which maintain the flexibility and volume of the hair fiber. We therefore discovered that thanks to its high potassium and sulfur concentrations, in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, Imperata cyhndrica L. could effectively solve the problems of premature aging of the skin and skin in a completely new way. hair, on the condition of qualitatively controlling the obtaining and correctly carrying out the extraction of the principles sought.

The extract ^ Imperata cyhndrica L. is obtained from the whole plant or from any isolated part. The plant or part of plant (15 grams) is dispersed in 85 grams of distilled water under pale for 1 hour at room temperature. The quantity of the plant occupies as many volumes as the water which takes on a cloudy brown color. After filtration (800 μm), 2% of diatomaceous earth is added and the mixture is stirred for 10 minutes. After filtration, the extract can be used as it is.

The example of obtaining the extract of mperata cyhndrica L. given above, is not limiting. It is indeed possible to replace the extraction by maceration techniques or by other methods such as, for example , simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction using ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques, without this list being exhaustive.

Furthermore, the extraction solvent mentioned above are not limiting and can be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, diglycols ethoxylated or propoxylated, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.

The identification and determination of the sulpholipid concentration of the extracts obtained are carried out according to the method described by Murakami-Murofushi et al. ((1985), Analytical Biochemistry 149: 480-483). Depending on the origins of the plant, the collection period and the type of extraction used, the values obtained are normally between 0.005 and 1.0%, the best results are obtained with extracts containing between 0.01 and 1.0 % (w / w) sulfur in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids. The identification and determination of the potassium concentration of the extracts obtained are carried out according to the conventional methods used either in flame spectrophotometry or in atomic absorption. Depending on the origins of the plant, the collection period and the type of extraction used, the values obtained are normally between 0.01 eî 2.0%, the best results are obtained with extracts containing between 0.05 and 1.0% (%)

(w / w) potassium

The following examples 1 and 2 indicate two final cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions which can contain the Imperata cyhndrica L extracts, Examples 3 to 4 and 5 to 7 respectively explain the beneficial actions observed when these extracts are used on the skin and on the skin. hair

Example No. 1 Hydrating gel

Bπj ^® 721 2 4

Volpo ^R S72 2 6

Prostéayl-15 8 0

Beeswax 0 5

Abιl ^® ZP2434 3 0

Propylene glycol 3 0

Carbopol ^® 941 025

Tπethanolamine 0 25

Extract of Imperata cyhndrica L. 3,0

Water, preservatives, perfumes QSP lOO

Example No. 2 Anti-wrinkle cream

Polysorbate 60 3 8

Sorbitan stearate 2 0

Cetyl alcohol 1 5

Vaseline oil 13

Extract ^of Imperata cyhndrica 3.0 L.

Water, preservatives, QSP fragrance 100 g

Example No. 3 Skin Moisturizing Power m vivo

This example demonstrates the skin moisturizing effect obtained, in vivo, on the legs of 15 adult female volunteers. The hydrating power of Imperata cyhndrica L., incorporated into the gel of Example No. 1 (therefore at 3.0% ), was compared to that of a placebo (the same gel but without clover extract) and to an absence of treatment This test can be quickly reduced as follows The level of hydration of the skin is measured by the electrical capacity of the skin using a comeometer (Courage and Khazaka, model CM 820), a technique conventionally used in cosmetology Indeed, the electrical properties of the surface layers of the skin are strongly linked to its water content.

Three independent sites are identified using adhesives and pen markings then, after a period of 20 minutes of rest in a seated position, the measurements corresponding to the TO are carried out in triplicate, at each site. Each of the two gels studied (placebo and extract of Imperata cyhndrica L.) is then applied until complete penetration, on an independent site, at a rate of 20 μl per site. The third site previously identified does not receive any product. The volunteers remain at rest. Three measurements per site are carried out every hour, and this, for 24 hours. The temperature and humidity of the room where the test is carried out are kept constant throughout the test.

The values indicated correspond to the averages calculated from the 3 measurements carried out on the variations, in percentage compared to TO, of the measurements carried out during 24 hours. The results obtained demonstrated, at times T + 1H, T + 2H, T + 3H, T 4H, T

+ 5H, T + 8H and T + 24H an increase of + 28.3%, + 27.4%, + 25.3%, + 25.6%, +25.7%, + 24.5% respectively + 18.8%; whereas there was no difference with the placebo sites without or no intervention.

Thus, the gel containing the extract of Imperata cyhndrica L. (at 3%) clearly demonstrates a strong hydrating power since not only the skin hydration is increased by

25% to 28% compared to the start of the test but, moreover, this effect is perfectly constant for at least the first 8 hours and remains remarkable even after 24 hours.

Under the same conditions, the placebo gel (without the extract of Imperata cyhndrica L.), has no hydrating effect, just as it can be seen when no product is applied.

Example No. 4 Anti-wrinkle effect in vivo

This example reports the anti-wrinkle effect obtained, in vivo, on a panel made up of 15 adult female volunteers. The anti-wrinkle power of the extract of Imperata cyhndrica L., incorporated into the anti-wrinkle cream of example No. 2 (therefore at 3.0%), is compared to that of a placebo (the same cream but without extract of clover).

The creams are applied to precisely identified sites, located on the corner of the right or left eye, according to a randomized distribution, twice a day, for 28 days. The parameter taken into account is the skin relief, at the level of the eye contour (wrinkles called crow's feet). The quantifications of the different relief variables are carried out by computer-video analysis of silicone impressions taken on the surface of the skin according to the protocols described by Corcuff et al. (1985, Int. J. Cosm. Sci.lύ 17-126) and Corcuff et al. (1995, in Handbook of non-invasive methods and the skin, Serup & Jemec eds., CRC Press: 89-96). The table below indicates the difference, in percentage, of the average values obtained between T +28 days and TO for the average depths of the main wrinkle (column A) or for all the folds (column B), for the density main folds (column C) as well as for roughness measurement (column D). The results obtained highlighted, on the four previous criteria, a decrease (and therefore an improvement) of approximately 15%, 22%, 33% and 21% respectively while the variations on the same criteria were negligible in the placebo conditions . The cream containing the extract of d Imperata cyhndrica L. clearly demonstrates a powerful anti-wrinkle effect since there is a statistically significant difference between the start and the end of the in vivo study and this, on all four classically parameters used in this indication.

It should be noted that under the same experimental conditions, the same cream has absolutely no effect if the $ Imperata cyhndrica L. extract has not been incorporated, which clearly demonstrates that it is only the extract previously described in this patent that the observed beneficial effect can be attributed. Example No. 5 In Vitro Hair Hydrating Effect

Locks of dry hair were soaked in a lotion containing the extract of Imperata cyhndrica L. at 3.0% and air dried while the same locks identical as to their origin and importance were subjected to the same treatment but in the presence of an identical lotion but containing no extract of mperata cyhndrica L. (placebo lotion)

After 2 hours of contact, a measurement of the moisturizing effect was carried out on these locks using the Comeometre (Courage and Kazaka). Each measurement was repeated 5 times. The results obtained demonstrate an increase of approximately 60% after two hours of contact with the locks in the lotion containing the extract 'Imperata cyhndrica L. at 3.0% while it is observed, after the same contact time, that '' an increase of approximately 3% for the locks having been in contact with the placebo lotion Example No. 6 Effect on capillary volume in vivo

This test corresponds to a subjective measurement of the effect of the same lotions as in Example No. 5 (either with or without extract of Imperata cyhndrica L. at 3%) in 10 female volunteers with dry hair. After a regular application (twice a day) for a month, the volunteers were asked about the interest of the product on the following three criteria: Improvement of the volume of the hair, reduction of the "electric" effect, improvement of the styling .

The analysis of the results highlighted respectively for these three parameters, an improvement for 70%, 70% and 60% of the volunteers; no change for 20%, 20% and 20% and no opinion for 10%, 10% and 20% of the volunteers.

Example No. 7 Effect on the resistance of the hair in vitro

Locks of hair were soaked in the same lotions as in Example No. 5

(either with or without Imperata cyhndrica L. extract at 3%). Three hairs from each wick were mounted in parallel on a bracket and were held vertically by a small clamp. At the other end of the hair a small clip with a tray was also attached. Weights were added to the pan until the 3 hairs broke. The breaking weight was noted. Each test has been repeated

3 times. The treatment with the lotion containing the extract of Imperata cyhndrica L. at 3% had increased the resistance of the hair by approximately 15%.

Thus, the extracts of Imperata cylindrica L. described in this patent application are advantageously used for the preparation of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions intended to maintain:> skin tone at its optimum level thanks to an important long-lasting hydrating effect (due at the high potassium concentrations of these extracts), which makes it possible to obtain a powerful anti-wrinkle effect which opposes, at the level of the skin, the deleterious effects of aging, pollution and other physical or chemical attacks> tone capillary thanks to the high sulfur content, in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, of these extracts.

The extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. described in this patent application contain between 0.005 and 1.0%, preferably between 0.01 and 1.0% (w / w) sulfur in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids and, between 0.01 and 2.0%, preferably between 0.05 and 1.0% (w / w) of potassium

The extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. can be used in any galemque form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy HE and E / FL emulsions milks, lotions, ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils, without this list being exhaustive

It is possible to incorporate the extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentomtes and other mineral supports

The extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro active ingredients - or posolubles, extracts of other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts

The extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L are used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization The concentrations of extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. can vary between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 05% and 5% by weight, in the finished product

Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing the extracts of Imperata or those of Imperata cyhndrica L. are used for the preparation of medicaments intended to maintain the cutaneous tomcity at its optimum level thanks to an important hydrating effect of long duration (due to the high concentrations in potassium from these extracts), which makes it possible to obtain a powerful antiπdes effect which opposes, to the level of the skin, the deleterious effects of aging, pollution and other physical or chemical attacks> capillary tomcity thanks to the high sulfur content, in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, of these extracts The extracts of Imperata or those of "Imperata cyhndrica L., are used, alone or in combination with cosmetic compositions, bound or incorporated or absorb or adsorbed, in particular in the form of macro-, micro- and nanoparticles, macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, in or on textiles, synthetic or natural fibers, wool and any material capable of being used to make clothing and day or night clothes, directly in contact with the skin or hair to allow continuous topical delivery and thus obtain a cosmetic effect at least equal to that obtained during manual topical applications.

Claims

1. Use of Imperata extracts for the preparation of cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions intended to maintain: skin tone at its optimum level thanks to a long-lasting significant moisturizing effect (due to the high potassium concentrations of these Imperata extracts ), which makes it possible to obtain a powerful anti-wrinkle effect which opposes, on the level of the skin, the deleterious effects of aging, pollution and other physical or chemical aggressions

> the hair tone thanks to the high sulfur content in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, of these extracts. Imperata. 2. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claim No. 1, characterized in that the extracts of Imperata are extracts of Imperata cyhndrica L ..

3. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the extracts of Imperata are obtained from the whole plant or from any part of the plant whatsoever and in that they contain between 0.005 and 1.0%, preferably between 0.01 and 1.0% (w / w) of sulfur in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids and, between 0.01 and 2.0%, preferably between 0, 05 and 1.0% (w / w) potassium.

4. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Imperata extracts are obtained by aqueous extraction, for one hour at room temperature, followed by filtration.

5. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extraction solvents used are chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.

6. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extraction can be replaced by maceration techniques or by other methods such as, for example, simple decoction, leaching, l extraction under reflux, extraction by means of ultrasound or microwaves or finally countercurrent techniques.

7. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the Imperata extracts are used either under liquid form, either in dry form obtained by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

8. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the concentration of Imperata extract is between 0.01% and 20% (w / w), preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, in the finished product.

9. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the Imperata extract can be used in any galenical form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions , ointments, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, body oils.

10. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the Imperata extracts are incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro -, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

11. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the extracts of Imperata are combined in the cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.

12. Use of the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the preparation of medicaments intended to maintain:

> skin tone at its optimum level thanks to a long-lasting significant moisturizing effect (due to the high potassium concentrations of these extracts), which makes it possible to obtain a powerful anti-wrinkle effect which is opposed, at the level of the skin, the harmful effects of aging, pollution and other physical or chemical attacks

> the hair tone thanks to the high content of sulfur, sulfur in the form of dimethylsulfopropionate (DMSP) or sulpholipids, of these extracts.

3. Use of extracts, alone or in combination with cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions, according to any one of claims 1 to 11, linked or incorporated or absorbed or adsorbed in the form of macro-, micro- and nanoparricules, than macro- , micro- and nanocapsules, in textiles, synthetic or natural fibers, wool and any material capable of being used to make clothing and underwear for day or night, directly in contact with the skin or hair to allow continuous topical delivery.