FR3148145A1 - CARE COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition for care of keratinous materials, comprising, a) at least one liquid solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 6 or more carbon atoms, diols containing 4 or more carbon atoms and diol ethers containing 4 or more carbon atoms; and b) a mixture of fatty acid and ester comprising i) a fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium-chain fatty acids, and, ii) an ester component comprising at least 3 medium-chain fatty acid monoesters with a polyol, wherein the weight ratio between the liquid solvent and the mixture of fatty acid and ester is greater than 1.5:1 and less than 25:1. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for care of keratinous materials, comprising applying said composition to keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

CARE COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for caring for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials.

STATE OF THE ART

Keratinous materials are widely present on the surface of human bodies, for example, skin, scalp and hair. Many people have long sought to soothe the surface of the body, in order to feel comfortable in daily life and at work. Among others, the itching sensation particularly concerns many people. Various factors can cause the itching sensation, for example, high dryness of the body surface, the presence of certain bacteria on the body surface, allergy, external stimuli or even psychological sensation, etc. Accordingly, various products are developed to treat the itching sensation, many of which are used to soothe the itching sensation. In particular, considering the various factors, soothing the itching sensation of the skin is usually more feasible and meaningful than therapeutic treatment directly against the factors.

When it comes to keratin care compositions, some other properties, for example, the absence of unpleasant odor, are also important to attract consumers.

Thus, there is a need to develop a keratinous material care composition, which can be used to soothe the itching sensation of the skin and does not deliver an obvious unpleasant odor.

The inventors have now discovered that at least one of the above needs can be achieved by the present invention.

1. au moins un solvant liquide choisi parmi les monoalcools contenant 6 atomes de carbone ou plus, les diols contenant 4 atomes de carbone ou plus et les diol éthers contenant 4 atomes de carbone ou plus ; et
2. un mélange d’acide gras et d’ester comprenant

1. un composant acide gras comprenant au moins 3 acides gras à chaîne moyenne, et,
2. un composant ester comprenant au moins 3 monoesters d’acides gras à chaîne moyenne avec un polyol,

Accordingly, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials, comprising:

1. at least one liquid solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 6 or more carbon atoms, diols containing 4 or more carbon atoms and diol ethers containing 4 or more carbon atoms; and
2. a mixture of fatty acid and ester comprising

1. a fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium chain fatty acids, and,
2. an ester component comprising at least 3 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol,

wherein the weight ratio of liquid solvent to fatty acid-ester mixture is greater than 1.5:1 and less than 25:1.

The inventors discovered that the composition of the present invention can be used to soothe the itching sensation of the skin and does not deliver an obvious unpleasant odor.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method of caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the detailed description and examples which follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention pertains, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be construed to encompass all of the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing an amount of ingredients and the like that are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “approximately”. Accordingly, unless otherwise specified, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values that may be changed depending on the desired purpose, if necessary.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. The scalp is particularly considered according to the present invention.

In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

1. au moins un solvant liquide choisi parmi les monoalcools contenant 6 atomes de carbone ou plus, les diols contenant 4 atomes de carbone ou plus et les diol éthers contenant 4 atomes de carbone ou plus ; et

1. un mélange d’acide gras et d’ester comprenant

1. un composant acide gras comprenant au moins 3 acides gras à chaîne moyenne, et,

1. un composant ester comprenant au moins 3 monoesters d’acides gras à chaîne moyenne avec un polyol,

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

1. at least one liquid solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 6 or more carbon atoms, diols containing 4 or more carbon atoms and diol ethers containing 4 or more carbon atoms; and

1. a mixture of fatty acid and ester comprising

1. a fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium chain fatty acids, and,

1. an ester component comprising at least 3 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol,

wherein the weight ratio of liquid solvent to fatty acid-ester mixture is greater than 1.5:1 and less than 25:1.

Liquid solvents

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one liquid solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 6 or more carbon atoms, diols containing 4 or more carbon atoms, and diol ethers containing 4 or more carbon atoms.

The term "liquid solvent" means that the solvent is capable of flowing under its own weight, at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

As used herein, monohydric alcohols refer to alcohols comprising only one hydroxyl.

Examples of monoalcohols suitable for the composition according to the present invention include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and ethoxydiglycol.

As used herein, diols refer to alcohols having two hydroxyls.

Examples of diols suitable for the composition according to the present invention include butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

As used herein, diol ethers refer to ethers formed from diols.

Examples of diol ethers suitable for the composition according to the present invention include dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol.

Preferably, the liquid solvent is chosen from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, ethoxydiglycol and their combination.

More preferably, the liquid solvent is chosen from octyldodecanol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and their combination.

Advantageously, the liquid solvent is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from more than 5% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Mixture of fatty acid and ester

1. un composant acide gras comprenant au moins 3 acides gras à chaîne moyenne, et,

1. un composant ester comprenant au moins 3 monoesters d’acides gras à chaîne moyenne avec un polyol.

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of fatty acid and ester comprising

1. a fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium chain fatty acids, and,

1. an ester component comprising at least 3 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol.

The term “fatty acid-ester mixture” here means a mixture of one or more fatty acids and one or more esters.

1. un composant acide gras comprenant au moins 3, 4 ou 5 des acides gras à chaîne moyenne ; et

1. un composant ester comprenant au moins 3, 4 ou 5 des monoesters d’acides gras à chaîne moyenne avec un polyol.

The fatty acid-ester mixture may include:

1. a fatty acid component comprising at least 3, 4 or 5 medium chain fatty acids; and

1. an ester component comprising at least 3, 4 or 5 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol.

The monoester in the ester component may be monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a lower polyol such as glycerol.

The medium chain fatty acid may be a monocarboxylic acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

The medium chain fatty acid can be represented by the following formula (I):

R-C(O)-OH (I)

in which

R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group of C ₅ -C ₁₉ , preferably of C ₇ -C ₁₅ , and more preferably of C ₇ -C ₁₁ such as an alkyl group; preferably, R is a linear hydrocarbon group; and more preferably, R is a linear alkyl group.

In some embodiments, R may have an odd number, for example, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17 or 19, of carbon atoms. Preferably, R may have 7, 9, 11, 13 or 15 carbon atoms; and more preferably, R may have 7, 9 or 11 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the medium-chain fatty acid according to formula (I) may be caprylic acid (C ₈ ), also called octoic acid, capric acid (C ₁₀ ), lauric acid (C ₁₂ ), myristic acid (C ₁₄ ), palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ), stearic acid (C ₁₈ ) or arachidic acid (C ₂₀ ).

The medium chain fatty acid may be at least partially esterified with a polyol.

In some embodiments, the monoester used in the monoester component may be a monoester represented by the following formula (II):

R-C(O)-OR' (II)

in which

R is as defined in formula (I), and

R' represents a residue of a polyol.

The polyol may contain from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms. The useful polyol may be glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol.

Preferably in formula (II), R and R' are different from each other, in which R represents a linear C ₇ - C ₁₅ alkyl, and R' represents a residue of a linear polyol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

According to the present invention, the medium chain fatty acid according to formula (I) is preferentially used in combination with the monoester according to formula (II), so as to form the mixture of fatty acid and ester.

Preferably, the medium chain fatty acid and the monoester for the fatty acid-ester mixture involve the same fatty acid moiety, i.e. the medium chain fatty acid of formula (I) and the monoester of formula (II) have the corresponding R group. That is, if a medium chain fatty acid of formula (I) having heptyl as R, i.e. being a caprylic acid, is used, then a monoester of formula (II) having heptyl as R, i.e. being a monoester of caprylic acid, is used to form the fatty acid-ester mixture. Similarly, if two or more fatty acids are used simultaneously for the fatty acid-ester mixture, then the corresponding two or more monoesters having the same fatty acid moieties respectively are used. In other words, in some embodiments, the fatty acid-ester mixture can be considered a mixture of three or more fatty acids of formula (I) and partially esterified monoesters of each fatty acid.

In some embodiments, the fatty acid-ester mixture comprises at least 3, 4 or 5 of the medium chain fatty acids of formula (I) and the monoesters of formula (II) having the corresponding R groups respectively identical to the medium chain fatty acids of formula (II). Corresponding to the medium chain fatty acid moieties, it is preferable to use the same polyol to form the monoesters. That is, for the other two monoesters of formula (II) for the fatty acid-ester mixture, they have the same R' group. Among others, glycerol is particularly used, so as to form glycerides with the above-mentioned medium chain fatty acids, corresponding to varying degrees.

In some embodiments, for example, the fatty acid-ester mixture comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and arachidic acid, for use as the fatty acid component. Meanwhile, the corresponding monoesters of each fatty acid in the fatty acid component are used as the monoester component. Preferably, the monoesters of the monoester component are each a glyceride.

Preferably, the fatty acid component comprises caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid. In parallel, the corresponding monoester component comprises a caprylic glyceride (also called monocaprylin), a capric glyceride (also called monocaprin) and a lauric glyceride (also called monolaurin).

Preferably, with respect to the fatty acid-ester mixture, the fatty acid component and the monoester component, for example the glycerides thereof, are present in a weight ratio ranging from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:1.

In some embodiments, for example, the fatty acid-ester mixture can be obtained by directly partially esterifying the fatty acid component with a polyol to form monoesters, thereby obtaining a fatty acid mixture and the corresponding monoesters as the monoester component. Since a polyol is used, it is understood that a multiester, for example a diester, a triester, etc., can ultimately be formed. Accordingly, a fatty acid-ester mixture comprising at least 3 fatty acids, monoesters corresponding to the at least 3 fatty acids, and multiesters corresponding to the at least 3 medium-chain fatty acids, is still useful for the purposes of the present invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "multiester" is provided to denote an ester formed from an esterification of a polyol, in which more than one hydroxyl group of a polyol molecule is esterified. Accordingly, "diester" or "triester" according to the present invention respectively denotes an ester in which two or three hydroxyl groups of a polyol molecule are esterified.

For example, when glycerol is used to esterify the fatty acid component, the useful fatty acid-ester mixture may include at least 3 fatty acids, monoesters, diesters, and triesters corresponding to the at least 3 fatty acids. For example, the useful fatty acid-ester mixture may include caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid, as the fatty acid component; monocaprylin, monocaprin, and monolaurin, as the monoester component; and a diglyceride and a triglyceride of caprylic acid, capric acid, and lauric acid.

When the fatty acid-ester mixture also comprises a multiester, the content of the multiester is not particularly limited. For example, the multiester may be used in the fatty acid-ester mixture in an amount of up to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 65% by weight or less.

(AVCO)

In some embodiments, for example, the mixture of fatty acid and ester may be naturally occurring. Among others, it is well known that coconut oil comprises a mixture of various _C8 - _C20 fatty acids, particularly those having an even number of carbon atoms.

Thus, it is desirable for the present invention to use coconut oil or a coconut oil derivative, for example, an esterified product of coconut oil, as the fatty acid-ester mixture.

Among others, a useful derivative of coconut oil is that called activated virgin coconut oil (AVCO). Preferably, the coconut oil is esterified with glycerol. A useful AVCO according to the present invention may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, as the fatty acid component; and monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin, as the monoester component.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, as a useful AVCO, the fatty acids in the fatty acid component and the monoglycerides in the monoester component are present in a weight ratio ranging from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:1.

More specifically, for example, in an exemplary embodiment for the AVCO, a useful AVCO may comprise: i) a fatty acid component comprising: caprylic acid in an amount of 5 to 20 wt%, preferably 7 to 15 wt%, and more preferably 8 to 10 wt%; capric acid in an amount of 1 to 10 wt%, preferably 2 to 8 wt%, and more preferably 4 to 7 wt%; and lauric acid in an amount of 20 to 70 wt%, preferably 30 to 60 wt%, and more preferably 40 to 55 wt%, and ii) a monoester component comprising: monocaprylin in an amount of 0.5 to 15 wt%, preferably 1 to 10 wt%, and more preferably 4 to 7 wt%; monocaprin in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight; and monolaurin in an amount of 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight; each relative to the total amount of the fatty acid component and the monoester component.

An AVCO obtained from the esterification of coconut oil may further comprise a diglyceride and a triglyceride in addition to the above fatty acid component and monoester component. According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, as a fatty acid component; monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin, as a monoester component; and optionally a diglyceride and a triglyceride of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid.

When the AVCO also comprises a multiester selected from diglycerides and triglycerides, the content of the multiester is not particularly limited, for example, in an amount of up to 90% by weight, preferably 80% by weight or less, more preferably 70% by weight or less, and even more preferably 65% by weight or less, each relative to the total amount of the AVCO.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, for example, a useful AVCO may comprise: i) a fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 5 to 40 wt%, preferably 10 to 30 wt%, and more preferably 20 to 25 wt%; ii) a monoester component comprising monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin, in an amount of 1 to 30 wt%, preferably 5 to 20 wt%, and more preferably 10 to 15 wt%; iii) a diester component comprising diglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 50 wt%, preferably 20 to 45 wt%, and more preferably 30 to 40 wt%; and iv) a triester component comprising triglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight; each relative to the total amount of the AVCO.

A useful AVCO may preferably be an AVCO prepared according to the teaching of EP 1973415, which is incorporated herein by reference. Accordingly, an example of an AVCO may comprise: 24.63 mg/g of caprylic acid (C ₈ ), 17.81 mg/g of capric acid (C ₁₀ ), 133.70 mg/g of lauric acid (C ₁₂ ) and 11.82 mg/g of monocaprylin, 8.29 mg/g of monocaprin and 57.16 mg/g of monolaurin; or 23.10 mg/g caprylic acid (C ₈ ), 16.08 mg/g capric acid (C ₁₀ ), 116.81 mg/g lauric acid (C ₁₂ ) and 16.04 mg/g monocaprylin, 10.35 mg/g monocaprin and 75.54 mg/g monolaurin; each relative to the total weight of AVCO; and preferably, AVCO is derived from the catalysis of coconut oil with 1,3-specific lipase and its subjection to glycerolysis.

As an AVCO, a commercial product can be used. As a commercially available AVCO, we can cite AVCO (INCI name: Cocos Nucifera Oil (coconut) marketed by Biotropics.

Advantageously, the mixture of fatty acid and ester is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1.2% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 60% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the liquid solvent and the mixture of fatty acid and ester is from 1.6:1 to 20:1, preferably from 1.6:1 to 15:1.

Water

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise water.

Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 40% by weight to 88% by weight, preferably from 50% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the mixture of fatty acid and ester as defined above.

Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins; firming agents; agents acting on microcirculation and mixtures thereof.

It is easy for the person skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

Adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, fragrances, antioxidants, chelating agents, preservatives, thickeners, emulsifiers, pH regulators and mixtures thereof.

The person skilled in the art can choose the amount of adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

1. de 20 % en poids à 80 % en poids d’un solvant liquide choisi parmi l’octyldodécanol, le dipropylène glycol, l’hexylène glycol, le caprylyl glycol et leur combinaison ; et

1. de 3 % en poids à 30 % en poids d’une huile de noix de coco vierge activée comprenant, par rapport à la quantité totale de l’huile de noix de coco vierge activée :

1. 20 à 25 % en poids d’un composant acide gras comprenant de l’acide caprylique, de l’acide caprique et de l’acide laurique ;

1. 10 à 15 % en poids d’un composant monoester comprenant de la monocapryline, de la monocaprine et de la monolaurine ;
2. 30 à 40 % en poids d’un composant diester comprenant des diglycérides d’acide caprylique, d’acide caprique et d’acide laurique ; et
3. 20 à 30 % en poids d’un composant triester comprenant des triglycérides d’acide caprylique, d’acide caprique et d’acide laurique,

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for caring for keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

1. from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of a liquid solvent selected from octyldodecanol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and a combination thereof; and

1. from 3% by weight to 30% by weight of an activated virgin coconut oil comprising, relative to the total amount of the activated virgin coconut oil:

1. 20 to 25% by weight of a fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid;

1. 10 to 15% by weight of a monoester component comprising monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin;
2. 30 to 40% by weight of a diester component comprising diglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid; and
3. 20 to 30% by weight of a triester component comprising triglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid,

wherein the weight ratio of liquid solvent to fatty acid-ester mixture is greater than 1.6:1 and less than 15:1.

Dosage form and process

The composition of the present invention is in the form of a liquid, lotion, emulsion or serum.

The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

In particular, keratinous material is the skin, for example, the scalp.

EXAMPLES

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

INCI name Trade name Supplier Dipropylene glycol DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL DONGYING HI-TECH SPRING CHEMICAL IN Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil ACTIVATED VIRGIN COCONUT OIL BIOTROPICS Octyldodecanol EUTANOL® G BASF Hydrogenated lecithin NIKKOL LECINOL S-10 NIKKO Carbomer ACRYPOL® 980 COREL PHARMA CHEM Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate HOSTACERIN® AMPS CLARIANT Dicaprylyl carbonate CETIOL® CC BASF Squalane EXOLIVE® CAROI LINE COSMETICA

Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples (CE) 1 to 4 were prepared on the basis of the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of the composition.

Components EI.1 EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 4 Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 20 30 81 85 20 20 Dipropylene glycol 80 / 19 / / / Octyldodecanol / 70 / 15 / / Dicaprylyl carbonate / / / / 80 / Squalane / / / / / 80

The composition of Inventive Examples 1 and 2 represents compositions according to the present invention.

The composition of Comparative Example 1 comprises a liquid solvent and a mixture of fatty acid and ester at a weight ratio of less than 1.5:1.

The composition of Comparative Example 2 comprises a liquid solvent and a mixture of fatty acid and ester at a weight ratio of less than 1.5:1.

The composition of Comparative Example 3 comprises 80% by weight of dicaprylyl carbonate instead of the liquid solvent according to the present invention, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of Comparative Example 4 comprises 80% by weight of squalene instead of the liquid solvent according to the present invention, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation process :

The compositions comprising the components listed in Table 2 were prepared by mixing the contained ingredients and shaking them thoroughly.

Assessment

The odor of each composition obtained was evaluated with the nose by an odor expert and classified according to the following standard:

Bad: The rancid smell of the composition is easily perceptible when a human nose is 3 cm away from the sample. And the smell disappears when the distance between the nose and the sample is greater than 5 cm.

Passable: The rancid smell of the composition is barely perceptible when a human nose is 3 cm from the sample.

Good: The rancid smell of the composition is barely perceptible when a human nose is 2 cm from the sample.

Excellent: the rancid smell of the composition is barely perceptible when a human nose is 1 cm from the sample.

The evaluation results of each tested composition were summarized in Table 3.

EI.1 EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC.3 EC. 4 Evaluation of odor by nose Excellent Excellent Bad Bad Bad Bad

It can be seen from Table 3 that the rancid odor of the composition is barely perceptible for the compositions of Inventive Examples 1 and 2.

Inventive Examples 3 to 6 and Comparative Example 5

The compositions of Inventive Examples (IE) 3 to 6 and Comparative Example (CE) 5 were prepared on the basis of the amounts given in Table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of each component relative to the total weight of the composition.

Components EI.3 EI.4 EI.5 EI. 6 EC.5 Demineralized water QS QS QS QS QS Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil 3 3 3 3 3 Dipropylene glycol 20 40 / 20 / Octyldodecanol / / 5 5 / Hydrogenated lecithin 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Carbomer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Polyacryloyldimethyl ammonium taurate 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Chelating agent 0.17 0.17 0.17 0.17 0.17 Antioxidant 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 pH corrector 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03

The composition of Inventive Examples 3 to 6 represents compositions according to the present invention.

The composition of Comparative Example 5 does not include the liquid solvent according to the present invention.

Preparation process :

1. ajout de la moitié de la quantité totale d’eau déminéralisée dans un bécher, et chauffage du bécher à 75 °C à l’aide d’un bain-marie ;
2. ajout de lécithine hydrogénée et agitation minutieuse ;
3. ajout de l’huile de cocos nucifera (noix de coco) uniquement ou du mélange d’huile de cocos nucifera (noix de coco) et du solvant choisi (dipropylène glycol ou octyldodécanol) , homogénéisation à 75 °C à une vitesse d’agitation de 1000 tr/min pendant 3 minutes ;
4. abaissement de la température du bain-marie de 75 °C à 40 °C, ajout de l’autre moitié de la quantité totale d’eau déminéralisée, ajout des ingrédients polymères restants (carbomère et polyacryloyldiméthyl taurate d’ammonium), agitation minutieuse jusqu’à la formation d’une émulsion homogène ;
5. ajout d’un agent chélateur dans le bécher et agitation minutieuse ;
6. ajout d’un antioxydant ;
7. ajout d’un correcteur de pH pour corriger le pH = 5,1± 0,3 ; et
8. ajout d'une petite quantité d’eau pour compenser celle qui s’est évaporée pendant la préparation.

The compositions comprising the components listed in Table 4 were prepared as follows:

1. adding half of the total amount of demineralized water to a beaker, and heating the beaker to 75°C using a water bath;
2. addition of hydrogenated lecithin and careful stirring;
3. addition of cocos nucifera (coconut) oil only or of the mixture of cocos nucifera (coconut) oil and the chosen solvent (dipropylene glycol or octyldodecanol), homogenization at 75 °C at a stirring speed of 1000 rpm for 3 minutes;
4. lowering the temperature of the water bath from 75°C to 40°C, adding the other half of the total quantity of demineralized water, adding the remaining polymer ingredients (carbomer and ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate), stirring thoroughly until a homogeneous emulsion is formed;
5. adding a chelating agent to the beaker and stirring thoroughly;
6. addition of an antioxidant;
7. addition of a pH corrector to correct pH = 5.1± 0.3; and
8. adding a small amount of water to compensate for that which evaporated during preparation.

Assessment

The odor of each composition obtained was evaluated with the nose by an odor expert and classified according to the standard mentioned above.

The evaluation results of each tested composition were summarized in Table 5.

Components EI.3 EI.4 EI.5 EI. 6 EC.5 Evaluation of odor by nose Fair Good Good Excellent Bad

It can be seen from Table 5 that the rancid odor of the composition is medium to barely perceptible for the compositions of Inventive Examples 3 to 6.

The odor of each composition obtained was also evaluated by corridor tests.

Each series of the hallway tests involved 10 volunteers to identify the odor of two samples. For comparison, one volunteer was asked to detect the sample with a lighter, more comfortable odor using his nose. Then, the volunteer's response was recorded and calculated as percentages of the sample considered to have a lighter odor in the same group of the two samples. Only the person who delivered the sample knows the specific content of the samples chosen throughout the testing process. In the investigation with the hallway tests, the five formulas (Ex. 3 to 6 and EC. 5) were classified into a range of groups to demonstrate the differences between them.

The results of the corridor tests are summarized in Table 6.

Band Results Ratio of 10 volunteers Winning formula with a lighter scent Percentage supporting the winning formula EI.3 vs EC.5 8:2 EI.3 80% EI.4 vs EC.5 9:1 EI.4 90% EI.5 vs EC.5 9:1 EI.5 90% EI.6 vs EC.5 10:0 EI. 6 100%

As can be seen from Tables 5 and 6, the results for the classification of the compositions of Inventive Examples 3 to 6 and Comparative Example 5 are substantially consistent with the results of the corridor tests.

Claims (10)

Keratinous material care composition, comprising:
(a) at least one liquid solvent selected from monoalcohols containing 6 or more carbon atoms, diols containing 4 or more carbon atoms and diol ethers containing 4 or more carbon atoms; and
(b) a mixture of fatty acid and ester comprising
(i) a fatty acid component comprising at least 3 medium chain fatty acids, and,
(ii) an ester component comprising at least 3 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol,
wherein the weight ratio of liquid solvent to fatty acid-ester mixture is greater than 1.5:1 and less than 25:1. Composition according to claim 1, in which the liquid solvent is selected from caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, ethoxydiglycol, and their combination; preferably, the liquid solvent is selected from octyldodecanol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and their combination. A composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the mixture of fatty acid and ester comprises:
(i) a fatty acid component comprising at least 3, 4 or 5 medium chain fatty acids; and
(ii) an ester component comprising at least 3, 4 or 5 monoesters of medium chain fatty acids with a polyol,
in which
medium chain fatty acid means a monocarboxylic acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid component comprises at least 3 fatty acids selected from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid, and the corresponding glycerides of each fatty acid in the fatty acid component are used as the monoester component,
preferably, the fatty acid component comprises caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, while the monoester component comprises monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin,
in which
the weight ratio of fatty acids in the fatty acid component to monoesters in the monoester component is from 4:1 to 1:1, preferably from 3:1 to 1:1, and more preferably from 2.5:1 to 1.5:1. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the mixture of fatty acid and ester is activated virgin coconut oil comprising
(i) a fatty acid component comprising:
caprylic acid in an amount of 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 7 to 15% by weight, and more preferably 8 to 10% by weight;
capric acid in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight; and
lauric acid in an amount of 20 to 70% by weight, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, and more preferably 40 to 55% by weight,
And
(ii) a monoester component comprising:
monocaprylin in an amount of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 4 to 7% by weight;
monocaprin in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 3 to 5% by weight; and
monolaurin in an amount of 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight,
each relative to the total amount of the fatty acid component and the monoester component. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mixture of fatty acid and ester is activated virgin coconut oil comprising:
(i) a fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 25% by weight;
ii) a monoester component comprising monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin, in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 10 to 15% by weight;
iii) a diester component comprising diglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight, preferably 20 to 45% by weight, and more preferably 30 to 40% by weight; and
iv) a triester component comprising triglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid, in an amount of 10 to 70% by weight, preferably 15 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 20 to 30% by weight,
each relative to the total amount of activated virgin coconut oil. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the weight ratio between the liquid solvent and the mixture of fatty acid and ester is from 1.6:1 to 20:1, preferably from 1.6:1 to 15:1. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising one or more selected from fragrances, antioxidants, chelating agents, preservatives, thickeners, emulsifiers and pH regulators. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(a) from 20% by weight to 80% by weight of a liquid solvent selected from octyldodecanol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and a combination thereof; and
(b) from 3% by weight to 30% by weight of an activated virgin coconut oil comprising, relative to the total amount of the activated virgin coconut oil:
(i) 20 to 25% by weight of a fatty acid component comprising caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid;
(ii) 10 to 15% by weight of a monoester component comprising monocaprylin, monocaprin and monolaurin;
(iii) 30 to 40% by weight of a diester component comprising diglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid; and
(iv) 20 to 30% by weight of a triester component comprising triglycerides of caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid,
wherein the weight ratio of liquid solvent to fatty acid-ester mixture is greater than 1.6:1 and less than 15:1. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous materials.