Hillary Step

The Hillary Step was a 40-foot vertical rock face that sits 8,790 metres (28,839 ft) above sea level.^[1] It was located near the summit of Mount Everest. Located on the Southeast ridge, halfway between the "South Summit" and the True Summit, the Hillary Step was the most technically difficult part of the typical Nepal-side Everest climb^[2] and the last real challenge before reaching the top of the mountain.^[3] The rock face was destroyed by an earthquake that struck the region in 2015.^[4]

The Hillary Step has a reputation among climbers for its 3,000-metre (10,000 ft) and 2,400-metre (8,000 ft) drops on the ascent.^[5][6] Without a guide, the climb is Class 4 and in the death zone.^[7] One expedition noted that climbing the Hillary Step was "strenuous" and offered little to no escape from the changing elements.^[8]

Heavy snowfall events can allow climbers the opportunity to bypass Hillary, by way of snow and ice climbing.^[9]

The Hillary Step has claimed its share of lives, due to its strenuous conditions and unpredictable, rapidly changing weather. Author Anatoli Boukreev found the body of Bruce Herrod hanging from ropes at the base of the step in 1996, according to his book The Climb.^[10]

The step was closed during the 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition by the First Assault Party of Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans when they reached the South Summit on 26 May at 13:00, too late to continue on. Seated on the snow dome, they could look closely at the last 90 m (300 ft) ascent to the summit. It was not the gentle snow ridge they had hoped for, but a thin crest of snow and ice on rock, steep on the left, overhanging as a cornice on the right. It was interrupted by a formidable-looking 12 m (40 ft) rock step two-thirds of the way up.^[11]

The step was named after Sir Edmund Hillary, who led Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, on 29 May 1953 climbing the crack between the snow and the rock, earning the feature its name.^[12] Upon completion of the summit, the pair reported the snowpack on Hillary is harder than that of lower elevation.^[13]

In his 1953 account of summiting Everest he wrote:^[14]

After an hour’s steady going we reached the foot of the most formidable-looking problem on the ridge – a rock step some forty feet [12 m] high. We had known of the existence of this step from aerial photographs, and had also seen it through our binoculars from Thyangboche. We realised that at this altitude it might well spell the difference between success and failure. The rock itself, smooth and almost holdless, might have been an interesting Sunday afternoon problem for a group of expert rock climbers in the Lake District, but here it was a barrier beyond our feeble strength to overcome. I could see no way of turning it on the steep rock bluff on the west, but fortunately another possibility of tackling it still remained. On its east side was another great cornice, and running up the full forty feet [12 m] of the step was a narrow crack between the cornice and the rock. Leaving Tenzing to belay me as best he could, I jammed my way into this crack, then kicking backwards with my crampons I sank their spikes deep into the frozen snow behind me and levered myself off the ground. Taking advantage of every little rock hold and all the force of knee, shoulder and arms I could muster, I literally cramponed backwards up the crack, with a fervent prayer that the cornice would remain attached to the rock. Despite the considerable effort involved, my progress although slow was steady, and as Tenzing paid out the rope I inched my way upwards until I could finally reach over the top of the rock and drag myself out of the crack on to a wide ledge. For a few moments I lay regaining my breath and for the first time really felt the fierce determination that nothing now could stop us from reaching the top. I took a firm stand on the ledge and signalled to Tenzing to come on up. As I heaved hard on the rope Tenzing wriggled his way up the crack and finally collapsed exhausted at the top.

In more recent years, the ascent and descent over the Step were generally made with the assistance of fixed ropes, usually placed there by the first ascending team of the season. In a good climbing situation, it was about a two-hour climb from the South Summit to the Hillary Step, one to two hours to climb the cliff, and then another 20 minutes from the top of the Hillary Step to the summit of Mount Everest.^[15] Only one climber at a time could traverse it.^[15] With increasing numbers of people climbing the mountain, the Step frequently became a bottleneck, with climbers forced to wait for their turn on the ropes and thereby slowing the flow of people up and down the mountain.

Before 2015, the descending sequence along Everest's southeast ridge was:^{[clarify][3][9]}

• Summit of Everest
• Final slope to summit
• Hillary Step 12-metre (40 ft) rock cliff
• Cornice traverse (knife-edge ridge)
• South Summit of Everest
• The Balcony (8,400-metre (27,500 ft))^[9][16]

It was suspected in 2016 that the April 2015 Nepal earthquake had altered the Hillary Step, but there was so much snow it was not clear whether it had truly changed.^[17][18] Kenton Cool wrote that the Hillary Step "is only 12 to 15 feet [3.7 to 4.6 m] high."^[19] In May 2017, Tim Mosedale and other climbers reported that "the Hillary Step is no more", although the full extent and interpretation of the changes were still nascent.^{[20][21][22][23][24][25][26]} Another climber who thought the Step changed by 2016 was six-time Everest summiter David Liaño Gonzalez,^[27] who summited in 2013 and 2016, when the relevant changes are reported to have occurred.^[28][29] However, some important Nepalese climbers, including Ang Tshering Sherpa, chairman of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, reported that the Step was still intact but covered in more snow than before.^[30][31] Later in the year, after seeing a large exhibition of photos from 2006 to 2016, he did agree that at least the upper portion of the step had indeed changed.^[32]

Peter Hillary, Edmund Hillary's son, was asked his opinion about the Step based on photos.^[33] He agreed it was there in part, but seemed to think it had undergone some sort of a change, noting especially what looked like a fresh broken rock.^[33] By early June 2017, more reports and photographic evidence came in, with Garrett Madison reporting that the step had conclusively changed.^[4] Dave Hahn, who has climbed Everest 15 times, was shown photos and agreed that it was changed.^[4] A special kind of mourning hit the community with realization of missing rocks and freshly hewn scars of new coloured rock at this landmark feature.^[4] Hahn noted how it was a great tribute to Hillary and Tenzing and he thought of them whenever he scrambled over it.^[4]

Later in 2017, mountaineering guide and trained photographer Lhakpa Rangdu mounted a photo exhibition at the Nepal Tourism Board showing how the Hillary Step area had changed.^[32] Rangdu has climbed Everest multiple times since 2005, including before and after the big Nepal earthquake. The combination of these skills—high-altitude photography and mountaineering—allowed him to provide a photographic history of the Hillary Step, and he has said that it is indeed gone.^[32]

• 1953 British Mount Everest Expedition
• Mount Everest in 2017
• Hillary Montes (Also named after Edmund Hillary)
• Hillary Peak
• Aiguille du Dru (2005 rock-fall ended climbing of Bonatti route)
• Aoraki / Mount Cook (2013 rock-fall shortened mountain)
• Three Steps

Wikimedia Commons has media related to Hillary Step.

• Link to a picture of the Hillary Step feature (circa 2008)
• Part way down is picture from on it looking up
• Helmet cam near step at around 1:30

27°59′14″N 86°55′32″E / 27.9871066°N 86.9256306°E / 27.9871066; 86.9256306