[go: up one dir, main page]
More Web Proxy on the site http://driver.im/ skip to main content
10.1145/3544549.3573876acmconferencesArticle/Chapter ViewAbstractPublication PageschiConference Proceedingsconference-collections
extended-abstract

A Case Study on the Design and Use of an Annotation and Analytical Tool Tailored To Lead Climbing

Published: 19 April 2023 Publication History

Abstract

Annotating sport performances enables to quantitatively and qualitatively analyze them, and profile athletes to identify their strengths and weaknesses. We present the case study of the design and use of an annotation and analytical tool tailored to lead climbing analysis, developed with and for the French climbing federation. We used an iterative design cycle mostly fueled by virtual meetings with the federation trainer and analyst to identify requirements and implement essential features over time. We complemented these meetings with two workshops involving them, as well as French athletes competing at the international level, to identify the tool advantages and limitations. We contribute a list of insights based on the design process and feedback from stakeholders that inform the design of annotation and analytical tools for lead climbing and potentially other sports.

Supplementary Material

VTT File (3544549.3573876-preview.vtt)
MP4 File (3544549.3573876-preview.mp4)
Video Preview
MP4 File (3544549.3573876-talk-video.mp4)
Pre-recorded Video Presentation

References

[1]
Inc. Agile Sports Technologies. Last visited in October 2022. Hudl Sportscode. https://www.hudl.com/products/sportscode.
[2]
Olivier Aubert and Yannick Prié. 2007. Advene: an open-source framework for integrating and visualising audiovisual metadata. In Proceedings of the 15th international conference on Multimedia - MULTIMEDIA ’07. ACM Press, Augsburg, Germany, 1005. https://doi.org/10.1145/1291233.1291451
[3]
Simone Bianco, Gianluigi Ciocca, Paolo Napoletano, and Raimondo Schettini. 2015. An interactive tool for manual, semi-automatic and automatic video annotation. Computer Vision and Image Understanding 131 (Feb. 2015), 88–99. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cviu.2014.06.015
[4]
Tewodros A. Biresaw, Tahir Nawaz, James Ferryman, and Anthony I. Dell. 2016. ViTBAT: Video tracking and behavior annotation tool. In 2016 13th IEEE International Conference on Advanced Video and Signal Based Surveillance (AVSS). 295–301. https://doi.org/10.1109/AVSS.2016.7738055
[5]
J. Booth, F. Marino, C. Hill, and T. Gwinn. 1999. Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers. 33, 1 (1999), 14–18. https://doi.org/10.1136/bjsm.33.1.14
[6]
Jeremie Boulanger, Ludovic Seifert, Romain Herault, and Jean-Francois Coeurjolly. 2016. Automatic Sensor-Based Detection and Classification of Climbing Activities. 16, 3 (2016), 742–749. https://doi.org/10.1109/JSEN.2015.2481511
[7]
Z. Cao, G. Hidalgo Martinez, T. Simon, S. Wei, and Y. A. Sheikh. 2019. OpenPose: Realtime Multi-Person 2D Pose Estimation using Part Affinity Fields. IEEE Transactions on Pattern Analysis and Machine Intelligence (2019).
[8]
International Olympic Comittee. Last visited in October 2022. The IOC approves five new sports for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic games. https://olympics.com/ioc/news/ioc-approves-five-new-sports-for-olympic-games-tokyo-2020?
[9]
ChyronHego Corporation. Last visited in October 2022. Tracab. https://tracab.com/.
[10]
Dartfish. Last visited in October 2022. Dartfish. https://www.dartfish.com/.
[11]
Fédération Française de la Montagne et de l’Escalade. Last visited in October 2022. Official website. https://www.ffme.fr/.
[12]
Agence Nationale de la Recherche. Last visited in October 2022. Agence Nationale de la Recherche. https://anr.fr/en/.
[13]
Vladislavs Dovgalecs, Jérémie Boulanger, Dominic Orth, Romain Hérault, Jean François Coeurjolly, Keith Davids, and Ludovic Seifert. 2014. Movement phase detection in climbing. 7, 3 (2014), 174–182. https://doi.org/10.1080/19346182.2015.1064128
[14]
Abhishek Dutta and Andrew Zisserman. 2019. The VIA Annotation Software for Images, Audio and Video. In Proceedings of the 27th ACM International Conference on Multimedia. ACM, Nice France, 2276–2279. https://doi.org/10.1145/3343031.3350535
[15]
Maurizio Fanchini, Frédéric Violette, Franco M. Impellizzeri, and Nicola A. Maffiuletti. 2013. Differences in Climbing-Specific Strength Between Boulder and Lead Rock Climbers. 27, 2 (2013), 310–314. https://doi.org/10.1519/JSC.0b013e3182577026
[16]
International Federation for Sport Climbing. Last visited in October 2022. Official rules of all climbing disciplines. https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/rules.
[17]
Brais Gabin, Oleguer Camerino, M. Teresa Anguera, and Marta Castañer. 2012. Lince: Multiplatform Sport Analysis Software. Procedia - Social and Behavioral Sciences 46 (2012), 4692–4694. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sbspro.2012.06.320
[18]
Mike Hughes and Ian M Franks. 2004. Notational analysis of sport: systems for better coaching and performance in sport. Routledge, London; New York. OCLC: 208524179.
[19]
Kinovea. Last visited in October 2022. Kinovea. https://www.kinovea.org/.
[20]
Michael Kipp. 2012. Multimedia Annotation, Querying, and Analysis in Anvil. In Multimedia Information Extraction, Mark T. Maybury (Ed.). John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, NJ, USA, 351–367. https://doi.org/10.1002/9781118219546.ch21
[21]
Felix Kosmalla, Florian Daiber, and Antonio Krüger. 2015. ClimbSense: Automatic Climbing Route Recognition using Wrist-worn Inertia Measurement Units. In Proceedings of the 33rd Annual ACM Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems (Seoul Republic of Korea, 2015-04-18). ACM, 2033–2042. https://doi.org/10.1145/2702123.2702311
[22]
Adriana Kovashka, Olga Russakovsky, Li Fei-Fei, and Kristen Grauman. 2016. Crowdsourcing in Computer Vision. Foundations and Trends® in Computer Graphics and Vision 10, 3(2016), 177–243. https://doi.org/10.1561/0600000071
[23]
Cassim Ladha, Nils Y. Hammerla, Patrick Olivier, and Thomas Plötz. 2013. ClimbAX: skill assessment for climbing enthusiasts. In Proceedings of the 2013 ACM international joint conference on Pervasive and ubiquitous computing(Zurich Switzerland, 2013-09-08). ACM, 235–244. https://doi.org/10.1145/2493432.2493492
[24]
Bokyung Lee, Michael Lee, Pan Zhang, Alexander Tessier, and Azam Khan. 2019. Semantic Human Activity Annotation Tool Using Skeletonized Surveillance Videos. In Adjunct Proceedings of the 2019 ACM International Joint Conference on Pervasive and Ubiquitous Computing and Proceedings of the 2019 ACM International Symposium on Wearable Computers (London, United Kingdom) (UbiComp/ISWC ’19 Adjunct). Association for Computing Machinery, New York, NY, USA, 312–315. https://doi.org/10.1145/3341162.3343807
[25]
Adrian Lees. 2003. Science and the major racket sports: a review. Journal of Sports Sciences 21, 9 (Sept. 2003), 707–732. https://doi.org/10.1080/0264041031000140275
[26]
Quintic Consultancy Ltd.Last visited in October 2022. Quintic Software. https://www.quinticsports.com/portfolios/quintic-software/.
[27]
Inc Meta Platforms. Last visited in August 2022. React. https://reactjs.org/.
[28]
Meta-Video. Last visited in October 2022. Meta-Video. https://www.meta-video.com/.
[29]
Dominic Orth, Graham Kerr, Keith Davids, and Ludovic Seifert. 2017. Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing. 8 (2017), 1744. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpsyg.2017.01744
[30]
PerfAnalytics. Last visited in October 2022. Programme Prioritaire de Recherche PerfAnalytics. http://perfanalytics.fr/.
[31]
Charles Perin, Romain Vuillemot, and Jean-Daniel Fekete. 2013. Real-Time Crowdsourcing of Detailed Soccer Data. (2013), 9.
[32]
Plotly. Last visited in October 2022. Dash: full-stack framework. https://dash.plotly.com.
[33]
Lionel Reveret, Sylvain Chapelle, Franck Quaine, and Pierre Legreneur. 2020. 3D visualization of body motion in speed climbing. Frontiers in Psychology 11 (2020), 2188.
[34]
Nicolas Roussel, Géry Casiez, Jonathan Aceituno, and Daniel Vogel. 2012. Giving a hand to the eyes: leveraging input accuracy for subpixel interaction. In Proceedings of the 25th annual ACM symposium on User interface software and technology - UIST ’12. ACM Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts, USA, 351. https://doi.org/10.1145/2380116.2380162
[35]
Dominik Saul, Gino Steinmetz, Wolfgang Lehmann, and Arndt F. Schilling. 2019. Determinants for success in climbing: A systematic review. 17, 3 (2019), 91–100. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jesf.2019.04.002
[36]
Ludovic Seifert, Dominic Orth, Jérémie Boulanger, Vladislavs Dovgalecs, Romain Hérault, and Keith Davids. 2014. Climbing Skill and Complexity of Climbing Wall Design: Assessment of Jerk as a Novel Indicator of Performance Fluency. 30, 5 (2014), 619–625. https://doi.org/10.1123/jab.2014-0052
[37]
L. Seifert, L. Wattebled, M. L’Hermette, G. Bideault, R. Herault, and K. Davids. 2013. Skill transfer, affordances and dexterity in different climbing environments. 32, 6 (2013), 1339–1352. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.humov.2013.06.006
[38]
H. Sharp, J. Preece, and Y. Rogers. 2019. Interaction Design: Beyond Human-Computer Interaction. Wiley. https://books.google.fr/books?id=UDeQDwAAQBAJ
[39]
Tomas Simon, Hanbyul Joo, Iain Matthews, and Yaser Sheikh. 2017. Hand Keypoint Detection in Single Images using Multiview Bootstrapping. In CVPR.
[40]
Alberto Soto, Oleguer Camerino, Xavier Iglesias, M. Teresa Anguera, and Marta Castañer. 2019. LINCE PLUS: Research Software for Behavior Video Analysis. Apunts Educació Física i Esports137 (July 2019), 149–153. https://doi.org/10.5672/apunts.2014-0983.es.(2019/3).137.11
[41]
Fabio Sulser, Ivan Giangreco, and Heiko Schuldt. 2014. Crowd-based Semantic Event Detection and Video Annotation for Sports Videos. In Proceedings of the 2014 International ACM Workshop on Crowdsourcing for Multimedia - CrowdMM ’14. ACM Press, Orlando, Florida, USA, 63–68. https://doi.org/10.1145/2660114.2660119
[42]
Anthony Tang and Sebastian Boring. 2012. #EpicPlay: crowd-sourcing sports video highlights. In Proceedings of the SIGCHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems. ACM, Austin Texas USA, 1569–1572. https://doi.org/10.1145/2207676.2208622
[43]
Meng Wang, Bingbing Ni, Xian-Sheng Hua, and Tat-Seng Chua. 2012. Assistive tagging: A survey of multimedia tagging with human-computer joint exploration. Comput. Surveys 44, 4 (Aug. 2012), 1–24. https://doi.org/10.1145/2333112.2333120
[44]
Phillip B. Watts. 2004. Physiology of difficult rock climbing. 91, 4 (2004), 361–372. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-003-1036-7

Cited By

View all

Index Terms

  1. A Case Study on the Design and Use of an Annotation and Analytical Tool Tailored To Lead Climbing

      Recommendations

      Comments

      Please enable JavaScript to view thecomments powered by Disqus.

      Information & Contributors

      Information

      Published In

      cover image ACM Conferences
      CHI EA '23: Extended Abstracts of the 2023 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems
      April 2023
      3914 pages
      ISBN:9781450394222
      DOI:10.1145/3544549
      Permission to make digital or hard copies of part or all of this work for personal or classroom use is granted without fee provided that copies are not made or distributed for profit or commercial advantage and that copies bear this notice and the full citation on the first page. Copyrights for third-party components of this work must be honored. For all other uses, contact the Owner/Author.

      Sponsors

      Publisher

      Association for Computing Machinery

      New York, NY, United States

      Publication History

      Published: 19 April 2023

      Check for updates

      Author Tags

      1. case study
      2. sport analysis
      3. user-centered design
      4. video annotation

      Qualifiers

      • Extended-abstract
      • Research
      • Refereed limited

      Funding Sources

      Conference

      CHI '23
      Sponsor:

      Acceptance Rates

      Overall Acceptance Rate 6,164 of 23,696 submissions, 26%

      Upcoming Conference

      CHI 2025
      ACM CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems
      April 26 - May 1, 2025
      Yokohama , Japan

      Contributors

      Other Metrics

      Bibliometrics & Citations

      Bibliometrics

      Article Metrics

      • 0
        Total Citations
      • 282
        Total Downloads
      • Downloads (Last 12 months)143
      • Downloads (Last 6 weeks)15
      Reflects downloads up to 11 Dec 2024

      Other Metrics

      Citations

      Cited By

      View all

      View Options

      Login options

      View options

      PDF

      View or Download as a PDF file.

      PDF

      eReader

      View online with eReader.

      eReader

      Full Text

      View this article in Full Text.

      Full Text

      HTML Format

      View this article in HTML Format.

      HTML Format

      Media

      Figures

      Other

      Tables

      Share

      Share

      Share this Publication link

      Share on social media