The Stunning Greek Island Known for Luring Famous Artists

Perhaps best known in the English-speaking world for serving as Leonard Cohen’s home for much of the 1960s, the Greek island of Hydra has provided inspiration to writers and artists for decades. One of the Saronic islands alongside Salamis, Aegina, Poros, Spetses and Agistri, Hydra is popular with Greeks and travelers alike as the perfect spot for a mini break, although some may run the risk of visiting, falling in love, and choosing to stay indefinitely. Really, just look at Leonard Cohen.

A one-town island, Hydra is based almost entirely around its bustling port, and is a rarity amongst the Greek islands for its complete lack of wheeled transportation: cars, motorcycles, ATVs, and even bicycles are banned.

While Cohen is undoubtedly the island’s most famous creative resident, he was far from its first. Greek artist Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas (whose home now serves as one of the most interesting museums in Athens) lived in an 18th-century mansion built by his great-great-great-grandfather overlooking the town. From there, he produced hundreds of paintings and sketches, several of which can be seen in his home in Athens, and hosted international visitors like Henry Miller, who produced the first draft of his travelog The Colossus of Maroussi while staying with Ghika, as well as Lawrence Durrell, whose writing about his life in Greece inspired the British TV series The Durrells, where he was played by Josh O’Connor.

Visiting Hydra, it’s hard not to see why so many brilliant minds have been drawn to its shores. While an increase in tourism in recent years has changed the face of the island somewhat, it still retains its charm, particularly for those who know where to look. Whether you’re a visitor looking for a weekend getaway from the chaos of Athens or an artist looking to uncover the tranquility and inspiration found by countless creatives before you, Hydra is an island that should not be overlooked.

2.5 hours by ferry from Athens’ Piraeus port

A visit to Hydra isn’t like a visit to your typical Greek island; you won’t find miles of sandy shores anywhere in sight. Instead, much of the swimming is done off bathing platforms close to the port, including at Spilia and Hydronetta. These platforms are essentially just rocky outcrops with steps leading down, that have had handrails bolted on to make it easier to climb in and out of the sea. Whether you want to go for a swim or simply sun yourself on a rock like a contented seal, these platforms make for a uniquely Hydrean experience. Visitors wanting a more typical beach experience can venture further afield, although the island’s beaches are made up of tiny pebbles, so water shoes are a wise investment. If you’re looking for a little beachside luxury, there’s Mandraki Beach Resort, a hotel that occupies the island’s only sandy beach (and whose loungers cost a pretty penny to rent).

For those looking to do things on the cheaper side, enjoy a lunch at Lefteraki’s Taverna before making yourself comfortable on the pebbled beach below. Water taxis, found at the port, can also ferry you to and from several of the island’s beaches only accessible by boat. They tend to leave at set times during the day and cost roughly €40.

Considering its minute size—just under 20 square miles and a population of just over 2,000—Hydra has a rich and fascinating history, and has served as a home to Albanian refugees (Arvanites) as well as Greek revolutionaries, and, of course, countless merchants and seamen throughout the centuries. The Museum of History and Archives of Hydra is one of the first buildings you’ll see as your ship pulls into port, and it’s worth visiting to learn more about the island’s unique history.

Writers and readers alike will also enjoy learning more about the Hydra Book Club, a collective that operates a bookstore and community center in the museum, as well as publishing an anthology of work featuring writing by both Greek and international writers who have lived on Hydra from the 1930s to the present. In the words of Josh Hickey, the founder of the club who lives on the island for half the year when he isn’t in Warsaw or Paris, “Hydra Book Club has created a new literary hub for everyone living on or visiting the island.”

The Cohen family has continued to seek inspiration from the island, too; Leonard’s son Adam calls the island home, and has recorded some of his own, as well as his father’s, music there, including the music video for his song “Moving On."

Fortunately, considering the car ban, Hydra is an island best explored on foot. One of Hickey’s favorite things to do on the island is hike through the mountains. “Sometimes people can get stuck on the port and in the town,” he explains. “I love to climb up and hike out this wildly beautiful island to truly connect with it.”

While some prefer to simply hike to and from the island’s pebbled beaches, others, like Hickey, head to higher ground. The hiking trail, which starts at the end of Hydra town with a wide stone path, leads to the Monastery of Prophet Elias which sits at an elevation of 500 meters above sea level. The trek from the port takes around two hours, but the views from the top are worth the sweat.

Cohen fans will undoubtedly want to visit the place he called home, but unfortunately, the property, which is still owned by his family, remains closed, meaning your pilgrimage will have to end at the front door. Fans don’t let this deter them, however, with the outside of the house becoming a popular spot for photoshoots. Consider a pilgrimage to the Pirate Bar on the port instead—in its previous life, it was a favorite spot of Cohen’s, and it has continued to serve as a meeting spot for artists visiting the island.

While the natural beauty and culture of Hydra is enough to keep you occupied for a weekend, the best way to pass time on the island is, in my opinion, to grab a book, head down to a restaurant or bar near the port, read, and watch the world go by. If you can rope a friend into the exercise, great, but it’s also the perfect solo activity, and there’s always the chance you’ll befriend other travelers in the process. When I arrived on the island, having only booked the entire trip two days before upon my friend’s recommendation, I found her in a bar surrounded by several new friends having somehow managed to find some of the only other Australians on the island with whom she’d gathered together to watch Australia play against Sweden in the FIFA Women’s World Cup.
 

Breakfast: Isalos is considered by many to serve the best breakfasts on the island, alongside delicious coffee and homemade smoothies. If you’re traveling solo and thus can’t enjoy one of their decadent breakfasts for two, or are just looking for something light, consider a simple breakfast of Greek yogurt and honey.

Lunch: As someone who prefers to sleep in and skip breakfast, I opt for early lunches at some of the many restaurants down by the port, particularly Hydra’s Corner: if you’re there in summer, it’s impossible to go wrong with a delicious and refreshing Greek salad (known as horiatiki) with a block of feta, and occasionally a side of tzatziki and pita if you want to draw out the proceedings and stay a while longer.

Dinner: There are several delightful restaurants hidden away in Hydra’s back streets, but two of my favorites are Kryfo Limani and Xeri Elia Douskos, the island’s oldest tavern and one frequented by Leonard Cohen. When dining with friends in Greece, I prefer to order a number of appetizers (or meze) to share, as well as a main to split if we’re feeling particularly ravenous; considering you’re on an island, enjoying some seafood is a must, particularly at Douskos, which offers an extensive seafood menu. At Kryfo Limani , which only accepts cash, consider ordering some home cooked dishes just like Yiayia would make, like fasolakia (green beans in a tomato and olive oil sauce), dolmades (stuffed vine leaves), or roasted chicken with lemon sauce.

Drinks: In the mid-to-late afternoon, head around the port to Spilia Beach Bar, a lively spot overlooking its very own bathing platform where friendly waiters will serve you delicious cocktails in between dips in the ocean. Josh Hickey recommends 1821 Hydra and L’Americano, two bars nestled in Hydra’s back streets, away from the crowded port.

Being a small island, accommodation on the island is largely made up of boutique hotels and privately-operated guesthouses. Some of the most well-regarded hotels include Hydroussa Hotel in Votsi Square, Mistral Hotel, and Piteoussa. Those concerned about accessibility and navigating Hydra’s cobbled walkways should opt for accommodations as close to the port as possible, like the four-star Douskos Port House.

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