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21 pages, 16865 KiB  
Article
Unraveling the Spatio-Temporal Evolution of the Ranchería Delta (Riohacha, Colombia): A Multi-Period Analysis Using GIS
by Marta Fernández-Hernández, Luis Iglesias, Jairo R. Escobar Villanueva and Ricardo Castedo
Geosciences 2025, 15(3), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences15030095 - 8 Mar 2025
Viewed by 214
Abstract
The Ranchería River delta, located in Riohacha, Colombia, exemplifies the complex dynamics of coastal systems influenced by environmental and anthropogenic factors. This study analyzes the spatial and temporal evolution of the delta’s shoreline over the past two decades (2003–2023) using Google Earth imagery, [...] Read more.
The Ranchería River delta, located in Riohacha, Colombia, exemplifies the complex dynamics of coastal systems influenced by environmental and anthropogenic factors. This study analyzes the spatial and temporal evolution of the delta’s shoreline over the past two decades (2003–2023) using Google Earth imagery, the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) within a GIS environment, and statistical methods such as ANOVA and Tukey’s test. Satellite images from 2003 to 2023 were processed to evaluate shoreline evolution through metrics like the Net Shoreline Movement (NSM) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR). The results reveal a predominant trend of accretion, with values reaching up to 260 m of NSM, particularly between 2003 and 2018. However, the 2018–2023 period shows a shift toward stabilization and localized erosion (e.g., the NSM ranges from 96 m of erosion to 32 m of accretion), with significant changes in the northeastern area (the delta’s Santa Rita arm) attributed to anthropic and natural factors (e.g., absence of mangroves or ongoing human activities). The comparison of LRR and NSM values reveals consistent linearity in shoreline behavior across the study period, suggesting stable coastal processes during accretion-dominated phases and increased variability during recent erosion. Variability across zones highlights the role of natural barriers like mangroves in mitigating erosion. The findings underscore the importance of integrating long-term data with recent trends for shoreline management and emphasize adaptive strategies to conserve critical ecosystems while addressing the socio-economic needs of local communities. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Socioeconomic Resilience to Climate Change in Coastal Regions)
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<p>Location of the Ranchería River delta, Riohacha, La Guajira, Colombia.</p>
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<p>Flowchart of the procedure followed in this research.</p>
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<p>Position of the Ground Control Points (GCP) used to reproject images.</p>
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<p>Position of the shorelines at different times, baseline and transects (background image from 2023).</p>
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<p>NSM, EPR, and LRR values per transect for each of the periods analyzed.</p>
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<p>Statistical correlation of shoreline ratios (NSM vs. LRR) obtained for three periods (2003–2023, 2003–2018, and 2018–2023).</p>
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<p>Digital Elevation Model (DEM) of the Ranchería Delta in 2017. The numbers above the black lines indicate the transect identification [<a href="#B46-geosciences-15-00095" class="html-bibr">46</a>].</p>
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<p>NSM at different zones for the periods 2003–2018 and 2018–2023 after Tukey’s test.</p>
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<p>LRR at different zones for the periods 2003–2018 and 2018–2023 after Tukey’s test.</p>
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40 pages, 9921 KiB  
Article
Geoinformatics and Machine Learning for Shoreline Change Monitoring: A 35-Year Analysis of Coastal Erosion in the Upper Gulf of Thailand
by Chakrit Chawalit, Wuttichai Boonpook, Asamaporn Sitthi, Kritanai Torsri, Daroonwan Kamthonkiat, Yumin Tan, Apised Suwansaard and Attawut Nardkulpat
ISPRS Int. J. Geo-Inf. 2025, 14(2), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/ijgi14020094 - 19 Feb 2025
Viewed by 710
Abstract
Coastal erosion is a critical environmental challenge in the Upper Gulf of Thailand, driven by both natural processes and human activities. This study analyzes 35 years (1988–2023) of shoreline changes using geoinformatics, machine learning algorithms (Random Forest, Support Vector Machine, Maximum Likelihood, Minimum [...] Read more.
Coastal erosion is a critical environmental challenge in the Upper Gulf of Thailand, driven by both natural processes and human activities. This study analyzes 35 years (1988–2023) of shoreline changes using geoinformatics, machine learning algorithms (Random Forest, Support Vector Machine, Maximum Likelihood, Minimum Distance), and the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS). The results show that the Random Forest algorithm, utilizing spectral bands and indices (NDVI, NDWI, MNDWI, SAVI), achieved the highest classification accuracy (98.17%) and a Kappa coefficient of 0.9432, enabling reliable delineation of land and water boundaries. The extracted annual shorelines were validated with high accuracy, yielding RMSE values of 13.59 m (2018) and 8.90 m (2023). The DSAS analysis identified significant spatial and temporal variations in shoreline erosion and accretion. Between 1988 and 2006, the most intense erosion occurred in regions 4 and 5, influenced by sea-level rise, strong monsoonal currents, and human activities. However, from 2006 to 2018, erosion rates declined significantly, attributed to coastal protection structures and mangrove restoration. The period 2018–2023 exhibited a combination of erosion and accretion, reflecting dynamic sediment transport processes and the impact of coastal management measures. Over time, erosion rates declined due to the implementation of protective structures (e.g., bamboo fences, rock revetments) and the natural expansion of mangrove forests. However, localized erosion remains persistent in low-lying, vulnerable areas, exacerbated by tidal forces, rising sea levels, and seasonal monsoons. Anthropogenic activities, including urban development, mangrove deforestation, and aquaculture expansion, continue to destabilize shorelines. The findings underscore the importance of sustainable coastal management strategies, such as mangrove restoration, soft engineering coastal protection, and integrated land-use planning. This study demonstrates the effectiveness of combining machine learning and geoinformatics for shoreline monitoring and provides valuable insights for coastal erosion mitigation and enhancing coastal resilience in the Upper Gulf of Thailand. Full article
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<p>Map of the study area in the Upper Gulf of Thailand which is divided into six regions based on physical characteristics.</p>
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<p>Workflow of the research methodology used for shoreline change analysis in the Upper Gulf of Thailand.</p>
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<p>Compare the performance of classification algorithms including Minimum Distance, Maximum Likelihood Classifier, Support Vector Machine, and Random Forest in overall accuracy and Cohen’s Kappa Coefficient.</p>
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<p>Classification results using four ML methods—Random Forest (<b>a</b>), Support Vector Machine (<b>b</b>), Maximum Likelihood Classifier (<b>c</b>), and Minimum Distance (<b>d</b>), for the Upper Gulf of Thailand. Each classification result illustrates the boundary between land and water in sample areas, including beach (<b>aA</b>,<b>bA</b>,<b>cA</b>,<b>dA</b>), mangrove forest (<b>aB</b>,<b>bB</b>,<b>cB</b>,<b>dB</b>), coastal fishing areas (<b>aC</b>,<b>bC</b>,<b>cC</b>,<b>dC</b>), shoreline protection structures (<b>aD</b>,<b>bD</b>,<b>cD</b>,<b>dD</b>), and steep cliffs (<b>aF</b>,<b>bF</b>,<b>cF</b>,<b>dF</b>).</p>
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<p>Overall accuracy and Cohen’s Kappa Coefficient for the Random Forest classification method applied to 65 satellite images from 1988 to 2023.</p>
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<p>Overlay of the extracted shorelines from seven time periods (1988, 1994, 2000, 2006, 2011, 2018, and 2023) in the Upper Gulf of Thailand. (<b>A</b>) represents shoreline changes at the Klong Yi San Kao estuary, (<b>B</b>) represents shoreline changes at Pak Thalenai, (<b>C</b>) represents shoreline changes at the mangrove area in Bang Krachao, (<b>E</b>) represents shoreline changes at Khun Samut Chin, and (<b>D</b>) represents shoreline changes at Khlong Nang Hong.</p>
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<p>Assessment of annual shoreline extraction compared to the reference shorelines in 2018 (<b>a</b>) and 2023 (<b>b</b>) in the Upper Gulf of Thailand. Shoreline locations in 2018: (<b>aA</b>) Hua Hin Beach, (<b>aB</b>) Chaosamran Beach, (<b>aC</b>) Pak Thale Nok, (<b>aD</b>) Bang Khun Thian, (<b>aE</b>) Bang Pu, (<b>aF</b>) Udom Bay, (<b>aG</b>) Na Chom Thian Beach, and (<b>aH</b>) Bang Sare. Shoreline locations in 2023: (<b>bA</b>) Hua Hin Beach, (<b>bB</b>) Chaosamran Beach, (<b>bC</b>) Bang Tabun estuary, (<b>bD</b>) Bang Khun Thian, (<b>bE</b>) Udom Bay, (<b>bF</b>) Jomtien Beach, (<b>bG</b>) Na Chom Thian Beach, and (<b>bH</b>) Bang Sare.</p>
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<p>Results of shoreline change analysis using the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) for the Upper Gulf of Thailand.</p>
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<p>Trends in global mean sea level and average temperature, along with mean sea level, average temperature, and accumulated shoreline erosion in the Upper Gulf of Thailand.</p>
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<p>Correlation analyses between sea level, temperature, and coastal erosion: (<b>a</b>) Global mean sea level vs. global average temperature (<b>b</b>). Coastal erosion in the Upper Gulf of Thailand vs. global mean temperature (<b>c</b>). Coastal erosion in the Upper Gulf of Thailand vs. global mean sea level (<b>d</b>). Mean sea level vs. mean temperature in the Upper Gulf of Thailand (<b>e</b>). Coastal erosion vs. mean temperature in the Upper Gulf of Thailand (<b>e</b>), (<b>f</b>) Coastal erosion vs. mean sea level in the Upper Gulf of Thailand.</p>
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<p>Shoreline changes over six time periods from Hua Hin District to Laem Phak Bia region. (A) represents shoreline changes in the northern part of Cha-Am Beach, and (B) represents shoreline changes in Bang Kao Beach.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in Saphan Pla Cha-am (<b>c</b>), and sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Bang Kao Subdistrict, Cha-am District, Phetchaburi (<b>d</b>).</p>
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<p>Shoreline changes over six time periods from Laem Phak Bia–Mae Klong River. (A) represents shoreline changes at the Klong Yi San Kao estuary, and (B) represents shoreline changes at Pak Thalenai.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area between the Mae Klong estuary and the Khlong Bang Tabun estuary (<b>c</b>), and sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Pak Thale Conservation Area, Pak Thale Subdistrict, Ban Laem District, Phetchaburi Province (<b>d</b>).</p>
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<p>Shoreline changes over six time periods from Mae Klong River to Tha Chin River. (A) represents shoreline changes at the mangrove area in Bang Krachao, and (B) represents shoreline changes at Ao Mahachai Mangrove Forest Study Centre.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Bang Phraek Subdistrict, Mueang District, Samut Sakhon Province (<b>c</b>), and a sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Ao Mahachai Mangrove Forest Natural Education Center, Bang Phraek Subdistrict, Mueang District, Samut Sakhon Province (<b>d</b>).</p>
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<p>The shoreline changes over six time periods from Tha Chin River to Chao Phraya River. (A) represents shoreline changes at Khun Samut Chin, and (B) represents shoreline changes at the Tha Chin estuary.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Ban Khun Samut Chin, Laem Fa Pha Subdistrict, Phra Samut Chedi District, Samut Prakan Province (<b>c</b>), and sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Marine and Coastal Resources Office, Samut Sakhon Mueang District, Samut Sakhon Province (<b>d</b>).</p>
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<p>Shoreline changes over six time periods from Chao Phraya River to Bang Pakong River. (A) represents shoreline changes at Khlong Nang Hong, and (B) represents shoreline changes at Bang Pu Mai.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Khlong Dan Subdistrict, Bang Bo District, Samut Prakan Province (<b>c</b>), and sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Bang Pu Subdistrict, Mueang District, Samut Prakan Province (<b>d</b>).</p>
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<p>Shoreline changes over six time periods from Bang Pakong River to Sattahip District. (A) represents shoreline changes at the Bang Pakong estuary, and (B) represents shoreline changes at Laem Chabang Port.</p>
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<p>Shoreline change analysis: sample of shoreline changes (<b>a</b>) over six time periods in the coastal area Bang Pakong estuary, Khlong Tamhru Subdistrict, Mueang District, Chonburi Province (<b>c</b>), and sample of shoreline changes (<b>b</b>) over six time periods in Laem Chabang coastal area, Thung Sukhla Subdistrict, Sri Racha District, Chonburi Province (<b>d</b>).</p>
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18 pages, 1335 KiB  
Article
Prediction of Seawater Intrusion Run-Up Distance Based on K-Means Clustering and ANN Model
by Jiatao Li, Zhenzhu Meng, Junkang Zhang, Yukai Chen, Jiewen Yao, Xinyue Li, Peng Qin, Xian Liu and Chunmei Cheng
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(2), 377; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020377 - 18 Feb 2025
Viewed by 312
Abstract
Coastal regions are increasingly vulnerable to sea-level rise and extreme storm events, making the accurate prediction of wave run-up on seawalls crucial for effective flood and erosion protection. This study presents a novel hybrid approach combining K-means clustering with artificial neural networks [...] Read more.
Coastal regions are increasingly vulnerable to sea-level rise and extreme storm events, making the accurate prediction of wave run-up on seawalls crucial for effective flood and erosion protection. This study presents a novel hybrid approach combining K-means clustering with artificial neural networks (ANNs) to predict wave run-up distance. The method begins with dimensionless analysis to scale all the variables, followed by data segmentation using K-means clustering to group wave characteristics such as the Froude number, scaled distance from the wave front to the shoreline, and wave nonlinearity. These clusters help to focus the ANN on more homogeneous wave conditions, significantly improving prediction accuracy. Two-dimensional flume experiments systematically varied wave height, period, and steepness, producing a robust dataset that accounts for a range of wave conditions. The model’s performance is demonstrated through a high R2 value of 0.97 and low mean squared error (MSE) of 0.0092, surpassing traditional ANN models in its ability to capture complex wave dynamics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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<p>Physical model of single-wave seawater intrusion issue: (<b>a</b>) initial stage; (<b>b</b>) impacting stage.</p>
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<p>The schematic sketch of the experimental facilities.</p>
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<p>The (<b>a</b>) photo and (<b>b</b>) side view of the seawall.</p>
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<p>The sketch of working principles of <span class="html-italic">K</span>-means clustering method. Red points and blue points refer to different clusters.</p>
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<p>The flow chart of <span class="html-italic">K</span>-means clustering.</p>
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<p>The structure of ANN model: (<b>a</b>) artificial neuron and (<b>b</b>) ANN synapses.</p>
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<p>The frequency distributions of the 4 input parameters: (<b>a</b>) <span class="html-italic">D</span>, (<b>b</b>) Fr, (<b>c</b>) <span class="html-italic">A</span>, and (<b>d</b>) <span class="html-italic">L</span>.</p>
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<p>The correlations between input parameters <span class="html-italic">D</span>, Fr, <span class="html-italic">A</span>, and <span class="html-italic">L</span>.</p>
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<p>Variations in the number of clusters <span class="html-italic">K</span> to SSE using the <span class="html-italic">K</span>-means clustering method.</p>
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<p>Parallel coordinate plots by cluster.</p>
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<p>Distributions of (<b>a</b>) <span class="html-italic">D</span>, (<b>b</b>) Fr, (<b>c</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>H</mi> <mo>/</mo> <mi>L</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>, and (<b>d</b>) for object variable <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>R</mi> <mi>m</mi> </msub> </semantics></math> of each cluster.</p>
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<p>The comparison of the predicted <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>R</mi> <mi>m</mi> </msub> </semantics></math> with the measured <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>R</mi> <mi>m</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>.</p>
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<p>The error histogram of the relative residual <math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>σ</mi> </semantics></math>.</p>
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28 pages, 12804 KiB  
Article
Comparing the Effects of Erosion and Accretion Along the Coast of Pontchartrain Lake and New Orleans in the United States of America
by Silvia V. González Rodríguez, Vicente Negro Valdecantos, José María del Campo and Vanessa Torrodero Numpaque
Sustainability 2025, 17(4), 1578; https://doi.org/10.3390/su17041578 - 14 Feb 2025
Viewed by 434
Abstract
This research examines the transformation of the Lake Pontchartrain coastal landscape, including the New Orleans shoreline. The paper addresses the critical need to understand long-term environmental change through a comprehensive geospatial analysis of historical cartographic representations. The study employs a methodology involving three [...] Read more.
This research examines the transformation of the Lake Pontchartrain coastal landscape, including the New Orleans shoreline. The paper addresses the critical need to understand long-term environmental change through a comprehensive geospatial analysis of historical cartographic representations. The study employs a methodology involving three key steps: (1) georeferencing maps using QGis v. 3.4.8., (2) vectorization using AutoCAD v. 2013, and (3) comparative spatial analysis to quantify coastal morphological changes. The quantitative results reveal significant coastal dynamics, with Lake Pontchartrain experiencing a total erosion balance of −36.42 km2, although the New Orleans coastal zone has experienced land reclamation. This loss can be attributed to the synergistic interaction of natural (e.g., subsidence, sea level rise, hurricanes) and anthropogenic (e.g., urban development, infrastructure, ecological fragmentation) processes that have accelerated coastal erosion in the study area. The research provides a critical historical analysis of the evolution of coastal landscapes in response to anthropogenic influences. However, the methodology is constrained when it comes to addressing the socioeconomic impacts. Nevertheless, the study considered the profound environmental and societal consequences of historical governmental and social decisions, thereby underscoring the intricate interplay between natural processes and human intervention in coastal ecosystems. These findings contribute to a more profound comprehension of the processes of coastal landscape transformation, underscoring the dynamic and fragile nature of coastal environments. Full article
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<p>Georeferenced location (plane coordinates) of the Pontchartrain Lake in Louisiana, USA. USA is located in North America at the bottom right (geographic coordinates). Use coordinate system WGS84, Datum NAD83.</p>
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<p>Design elevations of the flood protection system across the New Orleans region. Source: [<a href="#B19-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">19</a>].</p>
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<p>South Lake Pontchartrain Causeway Toll Plaza, Metairie. Source: Historic American Engineering Survey photo via Library of Congress website at <a href="https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.la0640.photos/?sp=2&amp;st=image" target="_blank">https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.la0640.photos/?sp=2&amp;st=image</a> (accessed on 17 August 2024).</p>
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<p>North Lake Pontchartrain Causeway Terminus, Mandeville. Source: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm0ZyeCEoOM" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lm0ZyeCEoOM</a> (accessed on 17 August 2024).</p>
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<p>Sketch H showing the progress of the survey in Section No. 8 1846–1852. Source: United States Coast Survey. Wikimedia Commons. Available online: <a href="https://w.wiki/BFVC" target="_blank">https://w.wiki/BFVC</a>. (accessed on 11 October 2023)</p>
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<p>2023 aerial photographs. (<b>A</b>) 10 aerial image captures (framed) that correspond to the study area analyzed in this work sites (framed) that correspond with the important places analyzed in this paper. (<b>B</b>) Enlarged representation (part of Irish Bayou) to allow visual verification of the cartographic reliability of the analyzed coast. Source: own elaboration, taken from Google Earth.</p>
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<p>Coastline superimposition of the vectorized cartographic plans of 1853 and 2023. Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>This detail from a map of New Orleans and the surrounding area, dated 1925, is courtesy of the Library of Congress for [<a href="#B39-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">39</a>]. It shows the Lakefront project accretion area. Source: <a href="https://www.raremaps.com/gallery/detail/73429/map-of-the-city-of-new-orleans-and-vicinity-july-1925-guillot-adam" target="_blank">https://www.raremaps.com/gallery/detail/73429/map-of-the-city-of-new-orleans-and-vicinity-july-1925-guillot-adam</a>, (accessed on 14 August 2024).</p>
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<p>Accretion map for the Lakefront project. Green line corresponds to the 2023 coastline, and Roman numerals indicate the name of the study zone. Source: Own elaboration.</p>
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<p>Current location of Fort St. John and distance to the mouth of the canal in Lake Pontchartrain. Source: Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Erosion and accretion in zones VIII–XII. Source: Own elaboration on aerial image of Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Accretion in the XIV Mandeville zone. Source: Own elaboration of aerial image from Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Erosion in zone XV St. Tammany Refuge. Source: Own elaboration of aerial image from Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Accretion in the zone XVI Big Branch Marsh National Wildlife Refuge. Source: Own elaboration on aerial image of Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Erosion and accretion in the XVII Irish Bayou zone. Source: Own elaboration of aerial image from Google Maps 2023.</p>
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<p>Massive land loss projected over the next 50 years according to CPRA, 2017. Source: [<a href="#B51-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">51</a>].</p>
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<p>The coastal morphology of Lake Pontchartrain and New Orleans. Source: [<a href="#B49-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">49</a>].</p>
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<p>Coastal land surface changes in terms of erosion and accretion. Source: [<a href="#B30-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">30</a>].</p>
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<p>Persistent land loss and land gain on the Lake Pontchartrain shoreline, as defined by the Coastal Wetlands Planning, Protection, and Restoration Act Program (n.d.), 1932–2010. Source: [<a href="#B30-sustainability-17-01578" class="html-bibr">30</a>].</p>
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24 pages, 4374 KiB  
Article
The Effects of Anthropic Structures on Coastline Morphology: A Case Study from the Málaga Coast (Spain)
by Rosa Molina, Giorgio Manno, Antonio Contreras de Villar, Bismarck Jigena-Antelo, Juan José Muñoz-Pérez, J. Andrew G. Cooper, Enzo Pranzini and Giorgio Anfuso
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(2), 319; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13020319 - 9 Feb 2025
Viewed by 720
Abstract
The Málaga coast, in the south of Spain, is a densely populated tourist destination where ports, marinas and coastal protection structures of various typologies (e.g., groins, breakwaters, revetments) and shapes (e.g., “Y”, “L”, etc., shaped groins) have been emplaced. Such structures have modified [...] Read more.
The Málaga coast, in the south of Spain, is a densely populated tourist destination where ports, marinas and coastal protection structures of various typologies (e.g., groins, breakwaters, revetments) and shapes (e.g., “Y”, “L”, etc., shaped groins) have been emplaced. Such structures have modified the long- and cross-shore sediment transport and produced changes in beach morphology and the evolution of nearby areas. To characterize the changes related to shore-normal structures, beach erosion/accretion areas close to coastal anthropic structures were measured using a sequence of aerial orthophotos between 1956 and 2019, and the potential littoral sediment transport for the two main littoral transport directions was determined by means of the CMS (Coastal Modeling System). Available data on wave propagation and coastal sediment transport reflect the complex dynamics of the study area, often characterized by the coexistence of opposing longshore transport directions. Accretion was observed on both sides of ports in all studied periods and groins and groups of groins presented mixed results that reflect the heterogeneity of the study area; in certain sectors where the wave regime is bidirectional, changes in the shoreline trend were observed during the study period. The study cases described in this paper emphasize the difficulties in finding clear spatial and temporal trends in the artificially induced erosion/accretion patterns recorded along a heavily modified shoreline. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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<p>Málaga coastline (Reference System EPSG: 25830). Subplot (<b>A</b>) shows the location of Málaga province within the Andalusian regional administration in Spain; subplot (<b>B</b>) shows the significant wave height rose obtained from ERA5 data in previous works [<a href="#B64-jmse-13-00319" class="html-bibr">64</a>]; subplot (<b>C</b>) shows the coastal municipalities of the Málaga provincial administration and the location of all coastal structures.</p>
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<p>Flux diagram of the methodology followed in this study. * [<a href="#B87-jmse-13-00319" class="html-bibr">87</a>]; ** [<a href="#B88-jmse-13-00319" class="html-bibr">88</a>,<a href="#B89-jmse-13-00319" class="html-bibr">89</a>].</p>
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<p>Example scheme of the periods and morphometric parameters considered in this study. At each period (P0, P1 and P2), the morphometric parameters were measured: the length of the structure (<span class="html-italic">L</span>, because the structure can record modifications), longshore distance (<span class="html-italic">D</span>) and cross-shore distance (<span class="html-italic">d</span>).</p>
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<p>The number of coastal structures surveyed. The number of each specific type of structure is also presented. The date shown corresponds to the year of the orthophoto where the structure was observed for the first time.</p>
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<p>Wave roses obtained at a 5 m water depth by wave propagation software and their location in the studied coast.</p>
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<p>The results obtained from the cluster analysis. (<b>A</b>) A Principal Component Analysis (PCA) plot showing the three clusters indicated by ellipses: centroids were represented by a red circle (Cluster A), a blue square (Cluster B), and a green triangle (Cluster C), and the axes reflect the variation in the represented data); and (<b>B</b>) the dendrogram obtained from the statistical analysis grouped and colored per cluster.</p>
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<p>Morphometric parameters were paired by: (<b>A</b>) the length of the structure (<span class="html-italic">L</span>) and the longshore distance (<span class="html-italic">D</span>); (<b>B</b>) the length of the structure (<span class="html-italic">L</span>) and the cross-shore distance (<span class="html-italic">d</span>); and (<b>C</b>) the cross-shore (<span class="html-italic">d</span>) and longshore (<span class="html-italic">D</span>) distances. The color red was used for Cluster A, blue for Cluster B and green for Cluster C. Different shapes were used to indicate structures located in the two considered coastal orientations.</p>
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<p>Selected case studies. (<b>A</b>) The location of the study cases within all the coastal structures mapped in this paper, the long-term evolution (1956−2016) of the coast and the observed main wave front approach directions and associated transport; (<b>B</b>) a group of groins in Estepona; (<b>C</b>) a groin in Nagüeles; (<b>D</b>) the Port of Estepona; and (<b>E</b>) the Port of Caleta de Vélez. The period of observations for the study cases are reported in the figure.</p>
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21 pages, 39906 KiB  
Article
Geological and 3D Image Analysis Toward Protecting a Geosite: The Case Study of Falakra, Limnos, Greece
by Ioannis K. Koukouvelas, Aggeliki Kyriou, Konstantinos G. Nikolakopoulos, Georgios Dimaris, Ioannis Pantelidis and Harilaos Tsikos
Minerals 2025, 15(2), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/min15020148 - 31 Jan 2025
Viewed by 662
Abstract
The Falakra geosite is located at the northern shoreline of the island of Limnos, Greece, and exhibits an array of unusual geomorphological features developed in late Cenozoic sandstones. Deposition of the primary clastic sediments was overprinted by later, low-temperature hydrothermal fluid flow and [...] Read more.
The Falakra geosite is located at the northern shoreline of the island of Limnos, Greece, and exhibits an array of unusual geomorphological features developed in late Cenozoic sandstones. Deposition of the primary clastic sediments was overprinted by later, low-temperature hydrothermal fluid flow and interstitial secondary calcite formation associated with nearby volcanic activity. Associated sandstone cannonballs take center stage in a landscape built by joints, Liesengang rings and iron (hydr)oxide precipitates, constituting an intriguing site of high aesthetic value. The Falakra geosite is situated in an area with dynamic erosion processes occurring under humid weather conditions. These have evidently sculpted and shaped the sandstone landscape through a complex interaction of wave- and wind-induced erosional processes aided by salt spray wetting. This type of geosite captivates scientists and nature enthusiasts due to its unique geological and landscape features, making its sustainable conservation a significant concern and topic of debate. Here, we provide detailed geological and remote sensing mapping of the area to improve the understanding of geological processes and their overall impact. Given the significance of the Falakra geosite as a unique tourist destination, we emphasize the importance of developing it under sustainable management. We propose the segmentation of the geosite into four sectors based on the corresponding geological features observed on site. Sector A, located to the west, is occupied by a lander-like landscape; to the southeast, sector B contains clusters of cannonballs and concretions; sector C is characterized by intense jointing and complex iron (hydr)oxide precipitation patterns, dominated by Liesengang rings, while sector D displays cannonball or concretion casts. Finally, we propose a network of routes and platforms to highlight the geological heritage of the site while reducing the impact of direct human interaction with the outcrops. For constructing the routes and platforms, we propose the use of serrated steel grating. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of UAV and GIS for Geosciences, 2nd Edition)
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<p>Flowchart of the applied methodology.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Laser scanning survey using a Leica BLK360; (<b>b</b>) an indicative photo of the DJI Matrice 300 with a Zenmuse ZH20 camera on board.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Geological structure of the island of Limnos [<a href="#B22-minerals-15-00148" class="html-bibr">22</a>,<a href="#B23-minerals-15-00148" class="html-bibr">23</a>], also showing the study area and sand dune locations across the north coast of Limnos. (<b>b</b>) Inset shows the allocation of Limnos Island in Greece.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Long-term meteorological data derived from the Limnos meteorological station. The blue line represents the mean monthly relative humidity. (<b>b</b>) Climograph displaying the average monthly temperature and precipitation for 2023, as derived from ERA5-Land. (<b>c</b>) Diagram showing the wind speed per month for 2023, as derived from ERA5-Land.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>–<b>c</b>) Representative photographs displaying free access for tourists when visiting the geosite. The three photographs were taken facing northeast. (<b>d</b>–<b>g</b>) Typical scenes of visitors reading books, doing yoga, or standing on cannonballs and concretions. Photographs (<b>d</b>,<b>f</b>) were taken facing northwest, and photographs (<b>e</b>,<b>g</b>) were taken facing northeast.</p>
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<p>Representative rock outcrops showing progressive erosion in the Falakra geosite. (<b>a</b>,<b>b</b>) White arrows point to the areas accumulating sand concentration around cannonballs. The increase in erosion is observed as a progressive burial of a sandstone fragment, outlined with a black line, over an approximate period of three years. (<b>c</b>,<b>d</b>) Black arrows point to the downslope removal of sandstone fragments in the lander-like landscape.</p>
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<p>UAV orthophoto map of the Falakra geosite.</p>
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<p>Slope analysis of the lander-like landscape, consisting of nine strides.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) The lander-like landscape from above. An image acquired by the UAV during the photogrammetric flight. See the nine strides forming the lander-like landscape. The inset shows two cannonballs with turtleback-structured honeycombs. For the location of the cannonball pair, see the red rectangle in the aerial view photo. (<b>b</b>) Field photo of the lander-like landscape showing the extensive presence of Liesengang. The inset shows a close-up view of the role of a joint (marked by a dashed line) in forming iron (hydr)oxide rings. Blue bold letters and red arrows show similar geologic features in the image acquired from the UAV and the camera. The photo was taken facing west.</p>
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<p>UAV-captured image of the sector B of the geosite, showing the geographic distribution of the three different clusters of concretions and cannonballs at the Falakra geosite.</p>
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<p>Three-dimensional model of a typical cannonball, displaying its diameter and the eroded portion.</p>
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<p>Various stages of evolution of cannonballs and concretions in sector B of the Falakra geosite. (<b>a</b>,<b>b</b>) The role of joints on erosion and iron oxide precipitation on an isolated complex of concretions in cluster a. For the location of cluster (<b>a</b>), see <a href="#minerals-15-00148-f010" class="html-fig">Figure 10</a>. (<b>c</b>) Layers of sediment build-up around sandstone grits to create a cannonball. (<b>d</b>) Various stages of concretion protruding from the cannonballs. Note that cannonball erosion starts with the exposure of the cannonballs. These cannonballs are from cluster b in <a href="#minerals-15-00148-f010" class="html-fig">Figure 10</a>. The GPS antenna is 19 cm in diameter and is used for scale. (<b>e</b>) Cannonballs jutting out, fully exposed to the landscape due to sandstone erosion. In the right corner of the photo, two cannonball casts are exposed. The GPS antenna is used for scale (19 cm in diameter). (<b>f</b>) Erosion rings developed in spheroidal and tabular concretions. The lens cap (6 cm in diameter) is for scale alongside the Liesegang rings.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Cannonballs dropped from a vertical sandstone cliff, impacted by seawater and rain erosion. The photo was taken facing north, and the width of the photo represents an approximately true distance of 15 m. The box shows the location of figure (<b>b</b>). (<b>b</b>) Hard cannonballs in sandstone, as highlighted by the yellow shade, and a jutting cannonball on top of the cliff. (<b>c</b>) Cannonballs jutting out from the landscape due to the erosion of sandstones, alongside Liesengang rings. Liesengang rings appear to mimic the exterior of the concretions.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Field photo of a fracture network from Falakra geosite, Limnos. Inset shows the classification of joints in relation to an open folding in the area. (<b>b</b>) Joints observed across the northeast-dipping (ca. 35°) sandstone beds from sector C in the geosite. These joints are classified as diagonal (dj) and cross joints (cj). (<b>c</b>) Joints bound by sandstone that are cemented by iron oxide; central cores defined by the joints appear to be iron-poor.</p>
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<p>Relicts of eroded concretions in the geosite. Note that the casts of cannonballs in the area exhibit a similar clustering to that observed in sector B of the geosite.</p>
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<p>Major, trace, and rare-earth element (REE) spidergrams (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>,<b>e</b>), respectively, for sandstone samples at Falakro, Limnos, compared to corresponding diagrams (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>,<b>f</b>), respectively, for end-member calcite and illite clay samples from the same locality.</p>
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<p>Orthophoto map overlapped with a hill-shaded DSM of Falakra geosite. The map shows the sectors of significance and suggested paths through the geosite and selected locations of platforms, orange boxes, with their elevations. Platform (<b>a</b>) is for unobstructed observation of the lander-like landscape, platform (<b>b</b>) is for viewing clusters of concretions and cannonballs, and platform (<b>c</b>) is for observation of eroded concretions and joints accompanied by iron (hydro)xide precipitation. The continuous blue line shows the 380 m long round-trip path through the geosite, which helps visitors to see all geological formations of aesthetic value. The dashed blue line indicates an additional path and the platform (<b>d</b>) for the unobstructed observation of the entire geosite.</p>
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17 pages, 6882 KiB  
Article
Monitoring the Effectiveness of Emergent Detached Offshore Structures in Mangrove Vegetation Increase: Lessons and Recommendations
by Nguyen Tan Phong, Nguyen Bao Thuan and Nguyen Ngoc Tien
Life 2025, 15(2), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/life15020136 - 21 Jan 2025
Viewed by 452
Abstract
Although successful in protecting planted mangrove plants, the effectiveness of emergent detached offshore structures in increasing vegetation cover has yet to be definitively determined. We selected Tien Giang Province, Vietnam as an appropriate case study to address this question. We analyzed multiyear (2000 [...] Read more.
Although successful in protecting planted mangrove plants, the effectiveness of emergent detached offshore structures in increasing vegetation cover has yet to be definitively determined. We selected Tien Giang Province, Vietnam as an appropriate case study to address this question. We analyzed multiyear (2000 and 2022) shoreline changes and calculated the enhanced vegetation index (EVI) together with ground truthing in pursuit of the objectives of the study. Our findings suggest that emergent detached offshore structures have yet to lead to an increase in vegetation cover or promote mangrove growth. The vegetation growth steadily increased, as did the high level of natural mangrove growth with fully grown mangrove trees, even before the structures were constructed. By 2015, all the categories increased slightly except for low vegetation cover (LVC) and medium vegetation cover (MVC). LVC decreased from 390 ha in 2010 to 291 ha in 2015, while MVC decreased from 305 ha in 2010 to 275 ha in 2015. By 2020, all the categories decreased slightly except for non-vegetation cover—Barren lands (NVC2) and MVC. NVC2 decreased slightly from 404 ha in 2015 to 368 ha in 2015. The MVC decreased slightly from 275 ha in 2015 to 212 ha in 2020. Non-vegetation cover—Intertidal mudflats (NVC1)—LVC, and high vegetation cover (HVC) increased slightly from 2015 (326 ha, 291 ha, and 249 ha, respectively) to 2020 (368 ha, 292 ha, and 298 ha, respectively). By 2022, NVC2, MVC, and HVC remained unchanged, while NVC1 and LVC increased slightly from 368 ha and 292 ha in 2015, respectively, to 380 ha and 302 ha, respectively. The increase in vegetation cover and the natural regeneration of mangrove species were partly due to the adaptation of mangrove species to the site (river mouth areas), particularly the protection provided by Ngang Island offshore, and the construction of these structures. In addition, these structures were constructed in a rather stable area (slightly eroded and estuarine area) and therefore have yet to provide any noticeable benefits for mangrove regeneration three to five years after their construction. In the future, the morpho dynamic and hydrodynamic elements of the site should be adequately considered during the design and construction of these structures to increase vegetation cover and promote natural mangrove regeneration. Full article
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<p>The location of the study site and the technical design of Tien Giang HTBs. (<b>A</b>) The location of Tien Giang Province in Vietnam (red color). (<b>B</b>) The 2022 EVI map, with the white dot indicating the study site and the two green dots indicating two sites outside the HTBs as the control sites. (<b>C</b>) The study profile with the Tien Giang HTB deployment and four random sites (green dots). (<b>D</b>) The technical design of Tien Giang HTB—Type A. (<b>E</b>) The technical design of HTB—Type B (adapted from previous studies in the area [<a href="#B12-life-15-00136" class="html-bibr">12</a>,<a href="#B13-life-15-00136" class="html-bibr">13</a>]). (See Table 2 for further information on technical design of Tien Giang HTBs and their length and types).</p>
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<p>Correlations between the different statistical methods EPR vs. LRR in the Tan Phu Dong district, Tien Giang Province, Vietnam.</p>
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<p>Vegetation cover changes at the study site between 2000 and 2022.</p>
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<p>The vegetation cover and EVI values at the Tan Phu Dong coast, Tien Giang Province, Vietnam between 2000 and 2022. The black arrow shows the location of the study site.</p>
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<p>The shoreline changes in Tan Phu Dong District, Tien Giang Province between 2000 and 2022. The left image shows the short-term change rates in meters per year (LRR values) during the above periods [<a href="#B33-life-15-00136" class="html-bibr">33</a>]. The graph indicates long-term net shoreline changes in meters (SCE and 371 NSM values) and short-term change rates in meters per year (LRR and EPR values).</p>
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<p>Natural growth of mangrove trees in the monitoring sites behind Tien Giang HTBs and two control sites. (<b>1</b>–<b>6</b>) Photos of the monitoring sites between Tien Giang HTBs and the shoreline, taken from the shore. (<b>7</b>,<b>8</b>) Photos of two control sites in the Dai river mouth areas, taken from the shore, showing the mangrove trees growing along the shore (see <a href="#life-15-00136-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>, <a href="#life-15-00136-f003" class="html-fig">Figure 3</a> and <a href="#life-15-00136-f006" class="html-fig">Figure 6</a> for more information on the Tien Giang HTB deployment and the random and control sites). In the photo (1), (a) shows the 20 m space between two Tien Giang HTB sections; (b) indicates young <span class="html-italic">Bruguiera</span> trees growing behind HTBs. In the photo (2), (a) shows a 20 m space between two Tien Giang HTB sections; (b) is the fully grown <span class="html-italic">Bruguiera</span> trees behind HTBs along the shoreline. In the photos of 3,5–7, (b) shows a great number of young and fully grown trees of <span class="html-italic">Sonneratia</span> species, <span class="html-italic">Avicennia</span> sp, and <span class="html-italic">Bruguiera</span> species close to the shoreline and (c) are weeds (<span class="html-italic">Cyperus stoloniferus</span>) growing on clay soil. In the photo (4), (d) shows the sand accumulation along the shoreline. In the photo (8), (b) is fully grown trees of <span class="html-italic">Sonneratia</span> species, <span class="html-italic">Avicennia</span> sp., and <span class="html-italic">Bruguiera</span> species growing close to the shoreline and river mouth area, together with thick layers of weed species (<span class="html-italic">Cyperus stoloniferus</span>) growing on clay soil.</p>
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37 pages, 17853 KiB  
Article
COAST-PROSIM: A Model for Predicting Shoreline Evolution and Assessing the Impacts of Coastal Defence Structures
by Pietro Scala, Giorgio Manno, Loredana Claudia Cozar and Giuseppe Ciraolo
Water 2025, 17(2), 269; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17020269 - 18 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1251
Abstract
Coastal zones, at the interface between land and sea, face increasing challenges from erosion, sea-level rise, and anthropogenic interventions, necessitating innovative tools for effective management and protection. This study introduces COAST-PROSIM, a novel numerical model specifically designed to predict shoreline evolution [...] Read more.
Coastal zones, at the interface between land and sea, face increasing challenges from erosion, sea-level rise, and anthropogenic interventions, necessitating innovative tools for effective management and protection. This study introduces COAST-PROSIM, a novel numerical model specifically designed to predict shoreline evolution and assess the impacts of coastal defence structures on coastal morphology. Unlike existing models that often face a trade-off between computational efficiency and physical accuracy, COAST-PROSIM balances these demands by integrating two-dimensional wave propagation routines with advanced shoreline evolution equations. The model evaluates the effects of interventions such as breakwaters and groynes, enabling simulations of shoreline dynamics with reduced computational effort. By using high-resolution input data, COAST-PROSIM captures the interplay between hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and structural impacts. Tested on real-world case studies along the coasts of San Leone, Porto Empedocle, and Villafranca Tirrena, the model demonstrates its adaptability to diverse coastal environments. The results highlight its potential as a reliable tool for sustainable coastal management, allowing stakeholders to anticipate long-term changes in coastal morphology and design targeted mitigation strategies. Full article
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<p>Flowchart of the COAST-PROSIM operations.</p>
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<p>Wave roses for the three application study sites.</p>
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<p>Comparison of the results obtained with COAST-PRO<sub>SIM</sub> and the Silvester and Hsu method with relative values of the validation metrics: correlation coefficient, BIAS, RMSE, NMSE, and coefficient of determination <span class="html-italic">R</span><sup>2</sup>.</p>
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<p>Trend of Yu on simulation day 7201 for the six configurations (subplot from (<b>A</b>–<b>F</b>)) selected in <a href="#water-17-00269-t003" class="html-table">Table 3</a> considering a 20-year simulation. Red, magenta and blue transect represent respectively 100, 0 and + 100 m transect dots. Points depict the location of selected transects in all subplots.</p>
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<p>Development of Yu over time at the three selected transects, for the six selected configurations considering a 20-year simulation. Subplot (<b>A</b>) shows the trend for configuration 1 while the (<b>B</b>) for configuration 3.</p>
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<p>Comparison of results obtained with COAST-PRO<sub>SIM</sub> and the method proposed by A. Valsamidis and D. E. Reeve on different simulation days (subplot (<b>A</b>) and (<b>B</b>) respectively for 10 and 365 days) considering a total simulation duration of 1 year.</p>
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<p>Trend of Yu for 12 selected simulation days (from (<b>A</b>–<b>L</b>)) considering an overall simulation of 20 years. Indication of time is provided as the title of each subplot.</p>
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<p>Development of Yu as time changes for seven selected simulation days, considering a total simulation period of 20 years. Subplot (<b>A</b>) depict the shoreline movement for all transect between −20 and +20 m. Subplot (<b>B</b>) shows the she shoreline trend for transects −100, 0 and 100 through time.</p>
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<p>San Leone study area. Subplot (<b>A</b>) shows the planimetric position of the study area while subplot (<b>B</b>) the horizontal view. In subplot (<b>C</b>) the position of the area in Sicily is provided. SR: WGS84 UTM 33N–32633.</p>
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<p>(<b>Left</b>): the shoreline simulated by the model and the four shorelines observed from satellite images; (<b>Right</b>): the deviation between the model results and the San Leone comparison observations.</p>
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<p>On the left is the shoreline simulated with COAST-PRO<sub>SIM</sub> for San Leone beach in its final configuration in December 2023, and on the right is the trend at the transects. Dashed lines in the upper subplot represent the shoreline position presented in <a href="#water-17-00269-f009" class="html-fig">Figure 9</a>. Colours of different transects (upper panel) are respected in the bottom panel.</p>
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<p>Porto Empedocle study area with shorelines. Subplot (<b>A</b>) shows the planimetric position of the study area while subplot (<b>C</b>) a zoomed-in view. Subplot (<b>B</b>) is the model result depicting harbour arm, beach and sea. In subplot (<b>D</b>) the positionn of the area in Sicily is provided.</p>
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<p>(<b>Left</b>): the shoreline simulated by the model and the four shorelines observed from satellite images; (<b>Right</b>): the deviation between the model results and the comparison observations.</p>
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<p>Villafranca Tirrena study area. Same SR as previous figures. Description of subplots is the same reported in <a href="#water-17-00269-f009" class="html-fig">Figure 9</a>.</p>
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<p>(<b>Left</b>): the shoreline simulated by the model and the four shorelines observed from satellite images; (<b>Right</b>): the deviation between the model results and the Villafranca Tirrena comparison observations.</p>
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15 pages, 7173 KiB  
Article
Amur Softshell Turtle (Pelodiscus maackii) Population Size, Structure, and Spatial Distribution
by Xiaochen Hou and Haitao Shi
Animals 2025, 15(2), 255; https://doi.org/10.3390/ani15020255 - 17 Jan 2025
Viewed by 497
Abstract
Freshwater turtle species preservation relies on understanding their population dynamics and geographical distribution. Amur softshell turtles (ASTs [Pelodiscus maackii]) are poorly protected due to insufficient awareness and the population in Northeastern China has experienced a steep decline compared to previous years. [...] Read more.
Freshwater turtle species preservation relies on understanding their population dynamics and geographical distribution. Amur softshell turtles (ASTs [Pelodiscus maackii]) are poorly protected due to insufficient awareness and the population in Northeastern China has experienced a steep decline compared to previous years. This study aims to investigate the population density and structure of ASTs in the Jewellery Island area of the Ussuri River in Northeast China using continuous-time capture–recapture methods in closed populations. A three-month mark–recapture study was conducted in 2022, resulting in 35 juvenile captures, including 12 recaptures from 23 marked individuals. The estimated population size in the study area was 40.79 ± 9.75 (95% confidence interval, 95% CI = 27–65), translating to 0.663 ± 0.158 turtles/ha (95% CI = 0.44–1.06 individuals/ha). Approximately 35.4–85.2% of the estimated population was marked. Additionally, we explored the influence of environmental variables on turtle distribution by dividing the surveyed sites into seven sections based on their natural characteristics. The ASTs distribution inferred from trapping successes was considerably different among sections, with most turtles (91%) captured at the vegetated shoreline and in water channel 2. This research offers essential baseline data to support future assessments of ASTs population on a larger scale and to inform the development of conservation strategies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ecology and Conservation)
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<p>(<b>Left</b>) Map of Heilongjiang Province, China. The study site is marked by a red dot. (<b>Right</b>) The study area and its surroundings on the Ussuri River. A red square indicates the sampling area. The map was constructed using ArcGIS Pro 3.2 [<a href="#B15-animals-15-00255" class="html-bibr">15</a>].</p>
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<p><span class="html-italic">Pelodiscus maackii</span> habitat at the Ussuri River, China. (<b>Left</b>) Undisturbed banks of the main river course. (<b>Right</b>) View of water channel 2. Photographs by Xiaochen Hou.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Schematic drawing of cage trap design. (<b>b</b>) Cage deployment.</p>
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<p>Map of the study site highlighting the seven major habitat sections identified during the study. Solid dots represent locations where capture successes occurred, with numbers denoting the total number of successful captures (including recaptures). Hollow dots mark locations where no captures were recorded. The map was constructed using ArcGIS Pro 3.2 [<a href="#B15-animals-15-00255" class="html-bibr">15</a>].</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Posterior densities of N for the data using the <span class="html-italic">M<b><sub>t</sub></b></span> and <span class="html-italic">M<b>th</b></span> model. (<b>b</b>) Posterior population size of <span class="html-italic">N</span> for the data using the <span class="html-italic">M<b><sub>t</sub></b></span> and <span class="html-italic">M<b><sub>tb</sub></b></span> model. <b><span class="html-italic">θ</span></b> denoted the proposed default prior choice [<a href="#B17-animals-15-00255" class="html-bibr">17</a>].</p>
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<p>Differences in environmental variables (water temperature [°C], current [m/s], water plant coverage [%], woody debris [%], canopy [%], and sand content of the substrate [%] across the seven sections (<a href="#animals-15-00255-f004" class="html-fig">Figure 4</a>) visualized using the Non-metric Multidimensional Scaling (NMDS).</p>
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51 pages, 13757 KiB  
Article
Coastal Hazard and Vulnerability Assessment in Cameroon
by Mesmin Tchindjang, Philippes Mbevo Fendoung and Casimir Kamgho
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(1), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13010065 - 2 Jan 2025
Viewed by 758
Abstract
The coast is the most dynamic part of the Earth’s surface due to its strategic position at the interface of the land and the sea. It is, therefore, exposed to hazards and specific risks because of the geography as well as the geological [...] Read more.
The coast is the most dynamic part of the Earth’s surface due to its strategic position at the interface of the land and the sea. It is, therefore, exposed to hazards and specific risks because of the geography as well as the geological and environmental characteristics of different countries. The coastal environment is essentially dynamic and evolving in time and space, marked by waves, tides, and seasons; moreover, it is subjected to many marine and continental processes (forcing). This succession of events significantly influences the frequency and severity of coastal hazards. The present paper aims at describing and characterizing the hazards and vulnerabilities on the Cameroonian coast. Cameroon possesses 400 km of coastline, which is exposed to various hazards. It is important to determine the probabilities of these hazards, the associated effects, and the related vulnerabilities. In this study, in this stable intraplate setting, the methodology used was diverse and combined techniques for the study of the shore and methods for the treatment of climatic data. Also, historical data were collected during field observations and from the CRED website for all the natural hazards recorded in Cameroon. In addition, documents on climate change were consulted. Remotely sensed data, combined with GIS tools, helped to determine and assess the associated risks. A critical grid combining a severity and frequency analysis was used to better understand these hazards and the coastal vulnerabilities of Cameroon. The results show that Cameroon’s coastal margins are subject to natural processes that cause shoreline changes, including inundation, erosion, and accretion. This study identified seven primary hazard types (earthquakes, volcanism, landslides, floods, erosion, sea level rise, and black tides) affecting the Cameroonian coastline, with the erosion rate exceeding 1.15 m/year at Cape Cameroon. Coastal populations are continuously threatened by these natural or man-induced hazards, and they are periodically subjected to catastrophic disasters such as floods and landslides, as experienced in Cameroon. In addition, despite the existence of the National Contingency Plan devised by the Directorate of Civil Protection, National Risk, and Climate Change Observatories, the implementation of disaster risk reduction and mitigation strategies is suboptimal. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Monitoring and Analysis of Coastal Hazard Risks)
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<p>Main landforms and features of Cameroon (source: Tchindjang, [<a href="#B36-jmse-13-00065" class="html-bibr">36</a>]).</p>
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<p>Geological cross-section of the coastal region (source: Tchindjang, [<a href="#B36-jmse-13-00065" class="html-bibr">36</a>]).</p>
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<p>Cameroon coastal geomorphology (source: adapted from Tchindjang [<a href="#B36-jmse-13-00065" class="html-bibr">36</a>]).</p>
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<p>Rocky volcanic coast with mole and cape in Limbe. (Source: Tchindjang, December 2012.)</p>
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<p>Rocky and sandy shores at Kribi. (Source: Tchindjang, August 2017.)</p>
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<p>Coastal vulnerability indices and equation.</p>
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<p>Coastal hazards in Cameroon.</p>
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<p>Cameroon earthquake map (source: Tchindjang [<a href="#B31-jmse-13-00065" class="html-bibr">31</a>]).</p>
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<p>Lava flows from the 1999 Cameroon Mountains eruption. It cut the West Coast highway and stopped just at 50 m from the ocean. A deviation was built to allow continuous road traffic. (Source: Tchindjang, April, 2007.)</p>
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<p>Landslide manifestations in the coastal areas of Cameroon. At the top left, food crops on the slopes at Bimbia. Right, a landslide with the destruction of crops (banana trees in Bimbia). Here is a change in land use on the Mutengene road with the introduction of maize (a very ravenous plant) and banana plantations that gradually bite the slopes and replace the forest. (Source, Tchindjang, December 2012.) In the middle, a hillslope is affected by a mass movement in Limbe city, and one can see houses and property exposed to damage. The last photos showed the way the municipality and agro-industries are fighting against landslides through rocky gabions.</p>
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<p>Coastal population level of vulnerability.</p>
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<p>Evolution of the total mean rainfall in the Cameroon coast.</p>
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<p>Evolution of the temperature on the Cameroon coast.</p>
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<p>Effects of coastal erosion on Limbe and Kribi Coast (source: Tchindjang, 2012 and 2017).</p>
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<p>Sea level rises threatening roads and oil palm plantations in the West Coast district of Cameroon (source; Tchindjang, December 2012).</p>
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<p>Summary of coastal erosion on the Kribian coast in EPR (m/year).</p>
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<p>Predictive mapping of the coastline dynamics on the Kribian coast, in 2050, following the BETA prediction model, in DSAS.</p>
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<p>Sand extraction at the Lobé Falls and erosion linked to human activities (fishing, housing, etc.) on the shore at Londji and Ebodje (source: Tchindjang, 2013–2018).</p>
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<p>Gabions or cords of rockfill and sandbags at Lobe Falls and Ebodje. Rockfill berms are one of the most common measures for stabilizing the coastline. However, this is a mixed success with the rising sea currents (source: Tchindjang, 2017–2019).</p>
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<p>Summary of the impact assessment of large oil spill on the biological environment.</p>
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<p>Summary of the impact assessment of a large hydrocarbon spill on the socioeconomic environment.</p>
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<p>Coastal vulnerability indices in Cameroon: physical coastal vulnerability index (CVIP), social coastal vulnerability index (CVIS), and economic coastal vulnerability index (CVIE).</p>
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<p>Overall coastal vulnerability indices in %.</p>
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<p>Overall vulnerability indices by gravity.</p>
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<p>Integrated coastal vulnerability index.</p>
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<p>Vulnerability index scores by area.</p>
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<p>Proposed local adaptative strategies for coastal management in Cameroon.</p>
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<p>Critical grid based on 5 × 5 risk assessment matrix.</p>
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<p>Methodology chart of the study.</p>
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<p>Impacts of the ship movements on the Cameroon coastal environment.</p>
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<p>Impact of the pollution from land on the main coastal environment studied.</p>
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18 pages, 4134 KiB  
Article
Applying Data Analysis and Machine Learning Methods to Predict Permafrost Coast Erosion
by Daria Bogatova and Stanislav Ogorodov
Geosciences 2025, 15(1), 2; https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences15010002 - 26 Dec 2024
Viewed by 634
Abstract
This study aims to establish a scientific and methodological basis for predicting shoreline positions using modern data analysis and machine learning techniques. The focus area is a 5 km section of the Ural coast along Baydaratskaya Bay in the Kara Sea. This region [...] Read more.
This study aims to establish a scientific and methodological basis for predicting shoreline positions using modern data analysis and machine learning techniques. The focus area is a 5 km section of the Ural coast along Baydaratskaya Bay in the Kara Sea. This region was selected due to its diverse geomorphological features, varied lithological composition, and significant presence of permafrost processes, all contributing to complex patterns of shoreline change. Applying advanced data analysis methods, including correlation and factor analysis, enables the identification of natural signs that highlight areas of active coastal retreat. These insights are valuable in arctic development planning, as they help to recognize zones at the highest risk of significant shoreline transformation. The erosion process can be conceptualized as comprising two primary components to construct a predictive model for coastal retreat. The first is a random variable that encapsulates the effects of local structural changes in the coastline alongside fluctuations due to climatic conditions. This component can be statistically characterized to define a confidence interval for natural variability. The second component represents a systematic shift, which reflects regular changes in average shoreline positions over time. This systematic component is more suited to predictive modeling. Thus, modern information processing methods allow us to move from descriptive to numerical assessments of the dynamics of coastal processes. The goal is ultimately to support responsible and sustainable development in the highly sensitive arctic region. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Cryosphere)
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<p>Study area location. A star displays the key site; meteorological stations are shown by circles [<a href="#B51-geosciences-15-00002" class="html-bibr">51</a>].</p>
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<p>Cross-section of the territory [<a href="#B29-geosciences-15-00002" class="html-bibr">29</a>]: 1—peat; 2—clay; 3—interlaying of silty sand and clay; 4—silt; 5—sand; 6—ice wedges.</p>
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<p>Procedure of this study.</p>
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<p>Scheme of converting categorical data about predominant permafrost processes. * 1—Thermodenudation, 2—Thermal abrasion, 3—Thermal erosion gully, 4—Thermokarst.</p>
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<p>The distribution of coastal retreat rates during 1988–2005 [<a href="#B25-geosciences-15-00002" class="html-bibr">25</a>].</p>
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<p>Median-filtered data of retreat rates for the Ural coast during different periods: (<b>a</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>b</b>)—2005–2012, (<b>c</b>)—2012–2013, (<b>d</b>)—2013–2014, (<b>e</b>)—2014–2015, (<b>f</b>)—2015–2017, (<b>g</b>)—2005–2017.</p>
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<p>The distribution of random components using a median filter: (<b>a</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>b</b>)—2005–2012, (<b>c</b>)—2005–2017, (<b>d</b>)—2012–2013, (<b>e</b>)—2013–2014, (<b>f</b>)—2014–2015, (<b>g</b>)—2015–2017.</p>
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<p>The original signal, denoised signal, and prediction of the random component are used using the neural network.</p>
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<p>The distribution of random components using neural network.</p>
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<p>Raw data and median-filtered data of retreat rates for the Ural coast during different periods: (<b>a</b>) 1988–2013; (<b>b</b>) 2013–2017. Lines marked with “m” are median-filtered data.</p>
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20 pages, 5026 KiB  
Article
Numerical Simulation Study on Dominant Factors of Surge Hazards in Semi-Submerged Landslides
by Jie Lei, Weiya Xu, Qingfu Huang, Lei Tian, Fugang Zhao and Changhao Lyu
Water 2025, 17(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17010022 - 25 Dec 2024
Viewed by 586
Abstract
Landslide-generated surge waves are significant natural hazards, posing severe risks to engineering safety. Despite extensive research on the dynamics of landslide-generated waves, studies analyzing controlling factors and their mechanisms remain limited, leaving key influencing processes inadequately understood. This study utilizes computational fluid dynamics [...] Read more.
Landslide-generated surge waves are significant natural hazards, posing severe risks to engineering safety. Despite extensive research on the dynamics of landslide-generated waves, studies analyzing controlling factors and their mechanisms remain limited, leaving key influencing processes inadequately understood. This study utilizes computational fluid dynamics (CFD) to perform a numerical simulation of a semi-submerged landslide in a hydropower station reservoir area. The research systematically investigated the effects of key variables, including slide volume, velocity, centroid height, and water depth, on the behavior of semi-submerged landslide-generated surge waves. Results demonstrate a positive correlation of slide volume, velocity, and centroid height with the initial wave height and run-up on the opposing shoreline. However, the impact of water depth reveals a more complex pattern, exhibiting distinct surge characteristics in the near-field and far-field zones. Via correlation and sensitivity analyses, this study elucidated the relationships between these factors and surge dynamics, identifying the primary factors influencing the size of the semi-submerged landslide-generated surge. The findings provide critical insights for predicting and mitigating surge disasters, offering both theoretical foundations and practical application value for landslide disaster prevention and management. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Research Status of Operation and Management of Hydropower Station)
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<p>Verification of model dimensions and wave height points placement.</p>
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<p>Comparison between physical experiment recorded images and numerical simulation results. (<b>a</b>) t = 0.156 s; (<b>b</b>) t = 0.268 s; (<b>c</b>) t = 0.362 s; (<b>d</b>) t = 0.547 s; (<b>e</b>) t = 0.784 s; (<b>f</b>) t = 1.01 s.</p>
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<p>Comparison of wave curves between physical experiment and numerical simulation. (<b>a</b>) Wave height monitoring point at x = 2 m; (<b>b</b>) wave height monitoring point at x = 3 m; (<b>c</b>) wave height monitoring point at x = 6 m; (<b>d</b>) wave height monitoring point at x = 9 m.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Three-dimensional numerical model of the landslide and layout of monitoring points. (<b>b</b>) Grid division and boundary condition setting.</p>
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<p>Semi-submerged landslide movement and surge generation processes. (<b>a</b>) Dynamic evolution process of sliding mass maximum velocity and free water surface at different time sequences. (<b>b</b>) Time series variation curve of free water surface elevation at wave height measurement points. (<b>c</b>) Surge propagation process along section A-A’.</p>
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<p>Wave variation curves in the surge generation area under conditions w1 to w6. (<b>a</b>) Wave height variation curves under conditions w1 to w6. (<b>b</b>) Run−up height variation curves on the opposite bank under conditions w1 to w6.</p>
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<p>Variation of initial wave height in each residential area under conditions w1 to w6.</p>
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<p>Wave variation curves in the surge generation area under conditions w6 to w11. (<b>a</b>) Wave height variation curves under conditions w6 to w11. (<b>b</b>) Run−up height variation curves on the opposite bank under conditions w6 to w11.</p>
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<p>Variation of initial wave height in each residential area under conditions w6 to w11.</p>
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<p>Wave variation curves in the surge generation area under conditions w6 to w11. (<b>a</b>) Wave height variation curves under conditions W6, and W12 to W16. (<b>b</b>) Run−up height variation curves on the opposite bank under conditions W6, and W12 to W16.</p>
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<p>Variation of initial wave height in each residential area under conditions W6, and W12 to W16.</p>
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<p>Regression analysis of landslide surge characteristics and different controlling factors. (<b>a</b>) Regression analysis of surge characteristics and velocity; (<b>b</b>) regression analysis of surge characteristics and volume; (<b>c</b>) regression analysis of surge characteristics and water depth; (<b>d</b>) regression analysis of surge characteristics and centroid height.</p>
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19 pages, 2699 KiB  
Article
Influence of Rocky Obstacle Sand Bypassing on Embayed Beach Dynamics Using a Reduced-Complexity Shoreline Model
by Elsa Durand, Bruno Castelle, Déborah Idier, Vincent Marieu, Arthur Robinet and Thomas Guérin
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2266; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122266 - 10 Dec 2024
Viewed by 706
Abstract
Headland and groyne sand bypassing greatly influences embayment dynamics at medium to long timescales, but is often disregarded or partially included in reduced-complexity shoreline models. This study explores how accounting for subaqueous sediment bypassing in a shoreline model affects mean embayed beach planshape [...] Read more.
Headland and groyne sand bypassing greatly influences embayment dynamics at medium to long timescales, but is often disregarded or partially included in reduced-complexity shoreline models. This study explores how accounting for subaqueous sediment bypassing in a shoreline model affects mean embayed beach planshape and spatial variability. We implement a generic parametrization of sand bypassing in the LX-Shore model, with simulations on a synthetic embayment in two configurations: “full bypassing” (FB) where the sediments bypass the obstacle in the surfzone and beyond, and “shoreline bypassing” (SB) where bypassing occurs only when the shoreline extends beyond the obstacle. Time-invariant wave simulations show significant differences in updrift shoreline position between FB and SB. Simulations with time-varying wave angles and fixed wave height and period reveal that FB significantly impacts the embayment mean planform and spatial variability: FB reduces beach rotation by about 1/3, particularly under slightly oblique and slightly asymmetrical wave climates, and decreases shoreline curvature, especially under highly oblique wave climates. Downdrift shoreline erosion may be overestimated by up to 20% under SB. Our simulations provide new insight into the influence of subaqueous sand bypassing on embayed beach dynamics and emphasize the importance of including this process when modelling shoreline evolution in coastal embayments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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<p>Examples of embayed beach planforms. (<b>a</b>,<b>b</b>) Asymmetric curved beach showing large change in shoreline orientation between (<b>a</b>) November 2021 and (<b>b</b>) February 2024 due to embayment rotation at Balapitiya beach, Sri Lanka; (<b>c</b>) straight shoreline between natural headlands at Porto-Vecchio, France; (<b>d</b>) straight shoreline between artificial groynes at Palavas-les-flots, France. Images adapted from Google Earth.</p>
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<p>Schematic planview coastal area with the primary features and processes included in LX-Shore. Cross-shore transport is switched off in this study. The striped areas represent the wave shadow zones.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>–<b>c</b>) Bypassing flux expression used depending on the ratio between the headland extent <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>H</mi> </msub> </semantics></math> and the surfzone width <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>S</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>. Adapted from [<a href="#B22-jmse-12-02266" class="html-bibr">22</a>]. (<b>d</b>) Schematic of the shoreline bypassing process included in the initial version of LX-Shore. (<b>e</b>) Schematic of the full bypassing implemented in the code. Sediment bypassing is transported between the two shoreline cells adjacent to each side of the obstacle (blue-framed cells) and is computed through <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>Q</mi> <mi>B</mi> </msub> </semantics></math> at the updrift boundary of the updrift cell (red dot). In all panels, the dotted white line denotes the offshore limit of the surfzone.</p>
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<p>Bypassing flux evolution predicted with the expression given in [<a href="#B22-jmse-12-02266" class="html-bibr">22</a>] (blue) and with the new generic expression (red).</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Evolution of shoreline position at different time steps for a 20-year simulation. (<b>b</b>) Evolution of the bypassing (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>Q</mi> <mi>B</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>) and alongshore (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>Q</mi> <mn>0</mn> </msub> </semantics></math>) sediment fluxes superimposed onto the evolution of <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>H</mi> </msub> <mo>/</mo> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>S</mi> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> during the simulation. The two peaks of the <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>H</mi> </msub> <mo>/</mo> <msub> <mi>X</mi> <mi>S</mi> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> curve at the early stage of the simulation are numerical artefacts that do not affect the overall simulation results (the curve follows its asymptote represented by the grey dashed line) caused by sand redistribution, inducing small, abrupt variations in surfzone width.</p>
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<p>Schematic of embayed beach model set-up with variables used for the analysis. The black dotted line represents the mean shoreline trend-line.</p>
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<p>Frequency of occurrence of wave directions for (<b>a</b>) an asymmetric slightly oblique wave climate (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.60</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.20</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>) and (<b>b</b>) a symmetric highly oblique wave climate (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.50</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.65</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>).</p>
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<p>Beach planforms resulting from simulations performed with full bypassing (FB) under highly oblique wave climates (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.65</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>) with asymmetry increasing from (<b>a</b>–<b>c</b>): (<b>a</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.55</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, (<b>b</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.85</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, (<b>c</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>1</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>. Panels (<b>d</b>–<b>f</b>) show the respective frequency of occurrence of wave direction <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>θ</mi> <mi>P</mi> </msub> </semantics></math> for each simulation of the upper panels.</p>
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<p>Embayed beach planforms after one year for stationary wave angles of 10°, 20°, and 30° with (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>,<b>e</b>) shoreline bypassing only (SB_St_10, SB_St_20, and SB_St_30) and (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>,<b>f</b>) full bypassing (FB_St_10, FB_St_20, and FB_St_30).</p>
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<p>Overview of mean shoreline planform (black line) and envelope (grey area) for each simulation with varying obliquity, U, and asymmetry, A, of wave incidence, with (<b>a</b>) only shoreline bypassing (SB_TV_500) and (<b>b</b>) full bypassing (FB_TV_500). The vertical black lines at both sides of the shoreline represent the two rocky obstacles. Simulations under the red dotted line are disregarded in the analysis (see <a href="#sec2-jmse-12-02266" class="html-sec">Section 2</a>).</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>–<b>c</b>) Mean shoreline rotation <math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>β</mi> </semantics></math> for (<b>a</b>) shoreline bypassing (SB_TV_500) and (<b>b</b>) full bypassing (FB_TV_500); (<b>c</b>) difference in <math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>β</mi> </semantics></math> values between FB and SB. (<b>d</b>–<b>f</b>) Standard deviation of <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mover accent="true"> <mi>S</mi> <mo stretchy="false">¯</mo> </mover> </mrow> </semantics></math> for (<b>d</b>) SB and (<b>e</b>) FB; (<b>f</b>) difference in <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>σ</mi> <mo>(</mo> <mi>d</mi> <mover accent="true"> <mi>S</mi> <mo stretchy="false">¯</mo> </mover> <mo>)</mo> </mrow> </semantics></math> values between FB and SB. (<b>g</b>–<b>i</b>) Minimum <span class="html-italic">y</span> position of mean shoreline for (<b>g</b>) SB and (<b>h</b>) FB; (<b>i</b>) difference in minimum shoreline position values between FB and SB.</p>
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<p>Mean embayed beach planform for simulations showing large differences between SB (dotted line) and FB (continuous line) in terms of (<b>a</b>) beach rotation (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.40</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>), (<b>b</b>) curvature (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.30</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.45</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>), and (<b>c</b>) maximum of erosion (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>A</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.20</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>U</mi> <mo>=</mo> <mn>0.05</mn> </mrow> </semantics></math>).</p>
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<p>Distribution of the differences in <math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>β</mi> </semantics></math>, <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>σ</mi> <mo>(</mo> <mi>d</mi> <mover accent="true"> <mi>S</mi> <mo stretchy="false">¯</mo> </mover> <mo>)</mo> </mrow> </semantics></math>, and <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>m</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>n</mi> <mo>(</mo> <mover accent="true"> <mi>S</mi> <mo stretchy="false">¯</mo> </mover> <mo>)</mo> </mrow> </semantics></math> between FB and SB for (<b>a</b>) a 250 m beach (FB_TV_250—SB_TV_250), (<b>b</b>) a 500 m beach (FB_TV_500—SB_TV_500), and (<b>c</b>) a 750 m beach (FB_TV_750—SB_TV_750).</p>
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17 pages, 6026 KiB  
Article
Formalization for Subsequent Computer Processing of Kara Sea Coastline Data
by Daria Bogatova and Stanislav Ogorodov
Data 2024, 9(12), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/data9120145 - 9 Dec 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 718
Abstract
This study aimed to develop a methodological framework for predicting shoreline dynamics using machine learning techniques, focusing on analyzing generalized data without distinguishing areas with higher or lower retreat rates. Three sites along the southwestern Kara Sea coast were selected for this investigation. [...] Read more.
This study aimed to develop a methodological framework for predicting shoreline dynamics using machine learning techniques, focusing on analyzing generalized data without distinguishing areas with higher or lower retreat rates. Three sites along the southwestern Kara Sea coast were selected for this investigation. The study analyzed key coastal features, including lithology, permafrost, and geomorphology, using a combination of field studies and remote sensing data. Essential datasets were compiled and formatted for computer-based analysis. These datasets included information on permafrost and the geomorphological characteristics of the coastal zone, climatic factors influencing the shoreline, and measurements of bluff top positions and retreat rates over defined time periods. The positions of the bluff tops were determined through a combination of imagery with varying resolutions and field measurements. A novel aspect of the study involved employing geostatistical methods to analyze erosion rates, providing new insights into the shoreline dynamics. The data analysis allowed us to identify coastal areas experiencing the most significant changes. By continually refining neural network models with these datasets, we can improve our understanding of the complex interactions between natural factors and shoreline evolution, ultimately aiding in developing effective coastal management strategies. Full article
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<p>Study area location.</p>
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<p>Bluff top position on the Ural coast, in the eastern part (see <a href="#data-09-00145-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>), at various times. The background is from QuickBird-2 2005.</p>
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<p>Methodology of coastal retreat estimation: (<b>a</b>)—general view (background is ALOS PRIZM 2006), (<b>b</b>)—general view with transects, (<b>c</b>)—detailed view of several transects, (<b>d</b>)—explanation of the text above.</p>
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<p>Coastal retreat rates for the Kharasavey key site during different time periods. (<b>A</b>,<b>B</b>) show more detailed sections of the coast (distances on the abscissa between points are 10 m). The grey color highlights the "peaks".</p>
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<p>Wind–wave energy: (<b>a</b>) values for the Kharasavey key site in each year [<a href="#B18-data-09-00145" class="html-bibr">18</a>]; (<b>b</b>) the cumulative average of the values for all sites versus the observation period.</p>
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<p>Sum of positive air temperature: (<b>a</b>) value for Ural and Kharasavey key sites during each year [<a href="#B18-data-09-00145" class="html-bibr">18</a>,<a href="#B22-data-09-00145" class="html-bibr">22</a>]; (<b>b</b>) cumulative average of values for all sites versus observation period.</p>
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<p>Illustration of correlation in coastal retreat value on neighboring transects on Ural coast. Coastal offset values change systematically when moving along coastline. Blue lines—transects.</p>
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<p>Experimental semi-variograms of coastline retreats. For Ural coast (<b>a</b>–<b>f</b>): (<b>a</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>b</b>)—2005–2012, (<b>c</b>)—2012–2013, (<b>d</b>)—2013–2014, (<b>e</b>)—2014–2015, (<b>f</b>)—2015–2017; for Yamal coast (<b>g</b>–<b>i</b>): (<b>g</b>)—1968–1988, (<b>h</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>i</b>)—2005–2016; for Kharasavey (<b>j</b>–<b>n</b>): (<b>j</b>)—1972–1977, (<b>k</b>)—1977–1988, (<b>l</b>)—1988–2006, (<b>m</b>)—2006–2016, (<b>n</b>)—2016–2022.</p>
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<p>The distribution of coastal retreat rates for chosen key sites. For Ural coast (<b>a</b>–<b>f</b>): (<b>a</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>b</b>)—2005–2012, (<b>c</b>)—2012–2013, (<b>d</b>)—2013–2014, (<b>e</b>)—2014–2015, (<b>f</b>)—2015–2017; for Yamal coast (<b>g</b>–<b>i</b>): (<b>g</b>)—1968–1988, (<b>h</b>)—1988–2005, (<b>i</b>)—2005–2016; for Kharasavey (<b>j</b>–<b>n</b>): (<b>j</b>)—1972–1977, (<b>k</b>)—1977–1988, (<b>l</b>)—1988–2006, (<b>m</b>)—2006–2016, (<b>n</b>)—2016–2022.</p>
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<p>Compared data based on our proposed method and the DSAS for territory with ice- wedge degradation: (<b>a</b>) Ural coast; (<b>b</b>) Yamal coast.</p>
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26 pages, 23951 KiB  
Article
Development of Methods for Satellite Shoreline Detection and Monitoring of Megacusp Undulations
by Riccardo Angelini, Eduard Angelats, Guido Luzi, Andrea Masiero, Gonzalo Simarro and Francesca Ribas
Remote Sens. 2024, 16(23), 4553; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs16234553 - 4 Dec 2024
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Abstract
Coastal zones, particularly sandy beaches, are highly dynamic environments subject to a variety of natural and anthropogenic forcings. Instantaneous shoreline is a widely used indicator of beach changes in image-based applications, and it can display undulations at different spatial and temporal scales. Megacusps, [...] Read more.
Coastal zones, particularly sandy beaches, are highly dynamic environments subject to a variety of natural and anthropogenic forcings. Instantaneous shoreline is a widely used indicator of beach changes in image-based applications, and it can display undulations at different spatial and temporal scales. Megacusps, periodic seaward and landward shoreline perturbations, are an example of such undulations that can significantly modify beach width and impact its usability. Traditionally, the study of these phenomena relied on video monitoring systems, which provide high-frequency imagery but limited spatial coverage. Instead, this study explored the potential of employing multispectral satellite-derived shorelines, specifically from Sentinel-2 (S2) and PlanetScope (PLN) platforms, for characterizing and monitoring megacusps’ formation and their dynamics over time. First, a tool was developed and validated to guarantee accurate shoreline detection, based on a combination of spectral indices, along with both thresholding and unsupervised clustering techniques. Validation of this shoreline detection phase was performed on three micro-tidal Mediterranean beaches, comparing with high-resolution orthomosaics and in-situ GNSS data, obtaining a good subpixel accuracy (with a mean absolute deviation of 1.5–5.5 m depending on the satellite type). Second, a tool for megacusp characterization was implemented and subsequent validation with reference data proved that satellite-derived shorelines could be used to robustly and accurately describe megacusps. The methodology could not only capture their amplitude and wavelength (of the order of 10 and 100 m, respectively) but also monitor their weekly–daily evolution using different potential metrics, thanks to combining S2 and PLN imagery. Our findings demonstrate that multispectral satellite imagery provides a viable and scalable solution for monitoring shoreline megacusp undulations, enhancing our understanding and offering an interesting option for coastal management. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Environmental Remote Sensing)
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Figure 1

Figure 1
<p>Study areas: (<b>a</b>) Southern Llobregat Delta (SLD) coast (Spain), (<b>b</b>) Northern Ombrone Delta (NOD) coast (Italy) and Feniglia beach (FNG) (Italy). The position of wave buoys and tide gauges is also shown. The coordinate reference system is WGS84.</p>
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<p>Exampleof the shoreline extraction method with S2 data: (<b>a</b>) raster file of the spectral index (NDWI), (<b>b</b>) binarization of the image with K-means, (<b>c</b>) contour extraction, (<b>d</b>) comparison between the reference shoreline and the detected one, and (<b>e</b>) validation by using the baseline and transect method.</p>
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<p>Workflow of the shoreline extraction tool and of the megacusp characterization tool.</p>
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<p>Examples of the shoreline detection phase. Results of the best index-method combination for S2 and PLN compared with the reference, for (<b>a</b>) the SLD coast (23 May 2019), (<b>b</b>) FNG beach (20 July 2021), and (<b>c</b>) the NOD coast (20 July 2021). In the background, orthomosaics closest to the satellite overpass dates are displayed for each beach.</p>
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<p>First segment of May 2017 used for the validation phase. (<b>a</b>) On top, the four lines correspond to the shorelines of the reference case (green), the best method–index combination in S2 data (GMM–NDWI, orange), the best method–index combination in PLN data (K-means–NIR, grey), and the CoastSat tool (blue). (<b>b</b>) At the bottom, with the same color, the detrended lines show the automatic peaks (red square) and valleys (green dot) for each detected megacusp. The numbers refer to the megacusp embayments that are visible in the orthomosaic. The <span class="html-italic">x</span>-axis is set to zero at the starting point of the segment.</p>
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<p>Second segment of May 2019 used for the validation phase. (<b>a</b>) On top, the four lines present the shorelines of the reference case (green), the best method–index combination in S2 data (GMM–NDWI, orange), the best method–index combination in PLN data (K-means–NIR, grey), and the CoastSat tool (blue). (<b>b</b>) On the bottom, with the same color, the detrended lines show the automatically detected peaks (red square) and valleys (green dot) for each megacusp. The numbers enumerate the megacusp embayments that are visible in the orthomosaic. The <span class="html-italic">x</span>-axis is set to zero at the starting point of the segment.</p>
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<p>Time series of the megacusp event in the SLD coast in 2023. On the left, Sentinel-2 images in the period between March and October 2023. On the right, the time series enriched by adding PlanetScope images during the peak of the event (May–June 2023).</p>
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<p>Results of the 2023 megacusp event in the SLD coast with the corresponding wave conditions. Time series of (<b>a</b>) significant wave height (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>H</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>b</b>) peak wave period (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>T</mi> <mi>p</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>c</b>) direction of wave incidence with respect to the north (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>θ</mi> </semantics></math>), (<b>d</b>) sinuosity (<span class="html-italic">s</span>), (<b>e</b>) shoreline standard deviation (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>σ</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>f</b>) mean megacusp amplitude (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>a</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>), and (<b>g</b>) mean megacusp wavelength (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>λ</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>) are shown.</p>
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<p>Time series of the megacusp event in FNG beach in 2022. On the left, Sentinel-2 images in the period between February and June 2022. On the right, the time series enriched by adding PlanetScope images at the peak of the event (March 2022).</p>
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<p>Results of the 2022 megacusp event in FNG beach with the corresponding wave conditions. Time series of (<b>a</b>) significant wave height (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>H</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>b</b>) peak wave period (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>T</mi> <mi>p</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>c</b>) direction of wave incidence to north (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>θ</mi> </semantics></math>), (<b>d</b>) sinuosity (<span class="html-italic">s</span>), (<b>e</b>) shoreline standard deviation (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>σ</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>f</b>) mean megacusp amplitude (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>a</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>), and (<b>g</b>) mean megacusp wavelength (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>λ</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>) are shown.</p>
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<p>Results of the 2022 megacusp event in FNG beach with the corresponding wave conditions. Time series of (<b>a</b>) significant wave height (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>H</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>b</b>) peak wave period (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>T</mi> <mi>p</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>c</b>) direction of wave incidence to north (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mi>θ</mi> </semantics></math>), (<b>d</b>) sinuosity (<span class="html-italic">s</span>), (<b>e</b>) shoreline standard deviation (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>σ</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>f</b>) mean megacusp amplitude (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>a</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>), and (<b>g</b>) mean megacusp wavelength (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mover> <mi>λ</mi> <mo>¯</mo> </mover> </semantics></math>) are shown.</p>
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