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25 pages, 3363 KiB  
Article
Fossil Hyaenanche Pollen from the Eocene of Kenya: The Paleophytogeograpy and Paleoclimate of a Relict Plant Genus Endemic to the Cape Province, South Africa
by Friðgeir Grímsson, Christian Geier, Johannes M. Bouchal, Silvia Ulrich, Reinhard Zetter and Manuel Vieira
Biology 2024, 13(12), 1079; https://doi.org/10.3390/biology13121079 - 20 Dec 2024
Viewed by 421
Abstract
On the African continent, Picrodendraceae are represented by four genera. Their intracontinental paleophytogeographic histories and paleoecological aspects are obscured by the lack of pre-Miocene fossils. For this study, late Eocene sediments from Kenya were investigated. The sample was prepared in the laboratory, and [...] Read more.
On the African continent, Picrodendraceae are represented by four genera. Their intracontinental paleophytogeographic histories and paleoecological aspects are obscured by the lack of pre-Miocene fossils. For this study, late Eocene sediments from Kenya were investigated. The sample was prepared in the laboratory, and its organic residue was screened for pollen. We extracted fossil Picrodendraceae pollen and investigated the grains using light and scanning electron microscopy. Based on the pollen morphology, the grains were assigned to Hyaenanche. This genus is currently confined to a small area within the Cape Province, South Africa. There, the plants grow as shrubs and small trees at an elevation between 60 and 800 m, on rocky substrate, as part of open fynbos vegetation, and under a dry climate with hot summers and limited precipitation. The sedimentary context and the associated palynoflora suggest that during the Eocene of Kenya, Hyaenanche was part of lowland coastal vegetation in Eastern Africa. There, the plants grew under fully humid to winter-dry tropical climates as part of landwards margins of mangroves, seasonally inundated floodplain forests, or coastal forests. Our study shows that when evaluating paleoecological aspects of relict monotypic plants, their extant closely related genera and their fossil records need to be considered. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Plant Science)
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Figure 1
<p>Geographic and geological maps. (<b>A</b>). Schematic map of the African continent showing the position of the study site, Kenya, Eastern Africa. (<b>B</b>). Schematic map showing major relevant geological formations and the location of the Dodori-1 well, close to Dodori, southeastern Kenya. (<b>C</b>). Compiled stratigraphic profile (modified after Vieira et al. [<a href="#B18-biology-13-01079" class="html-bibr">18</a>]) showing the stratigraphic level of the sample comprising the fossil Picrodendraceae pollen. KEN = Kenya; TZA = Tanzania; ETH = Ethiopia; SOM = Somalia.</p>
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<p>Fossil <span class="html-italic">Hyaenanche</span> Dodori MT pollen from the earliest late Eocene of southeast Kenya, Africa. (<b>A</b>–<b>D</b>). LM micrographs. (<b>E</b>–<b>H</b>). SEM micrographs. (<b>A</b>). Oblique polar view, pollen filled with pyrite. <b>B</b>. Oblique equatorial view, compressed grain. (<b>C</b>). Oblique polar view, compressed grain. (<b>D</b>). Oblique view, folded grain. (<b>E</b>). Oblique polar view, same grain as in (<b>A</b>), note apertures and their membranes. (<b>F</b>). Oblique equatorial view, same grain as in (<b>B</b>), nanogemmae less conspicuous. (<b>G</b>). Oblique polar view, same grain as in (<b>C</b>), apertures infolded. (<b>H</b>). Oblique polar view, compressed grain, same as in (<b>D</b>), note row of apertures along equatorial plane. Black arrowheads pinpoint apertures. Scale bars = 10 µm.</p>
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<p>Fossil <span class="html-italic">Hyaenanche</span> Dodori MT pollen from the earliest late Eocene of southeast Kenya, Africa. (<b>A</b>–<b>H</b>). SEM micrographs. (<b>A</b>). Interapertural area (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>A), fossulae and large perforation in-between echini, nanogemmae in rows and widely spaced. (<b>B</b>). Interapertural area (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>G), nanogemmae densely packed, echini striate. (<b>C</b>). Interapertural area (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>H), fossulae and large perforations in-between echini, nanogemmae less conspicuous. (<b>D</b>). Aperture region (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>E), parts of membrane preserved. (<b>E</b>). Aperture region, note echini bending over pori. (<b>F</b>). Aperture region (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>F), aperture infolded and obscured by echini. (<b>G</b>). Aperture region (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>H), aperture membrane nanogemmate. (<b>H</b>). Aperture region (close-up of <a href="#biology-13-01079-f002" class="html-fig">Figure 2</a>H), aperture membrane nanogemmate, echini bending over pori. Black arrowheads pinpoint apertures. Scale bars = 1 µm.</p>
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<p>Geographic distribution and climate parameters for <span class="html-italic">Hyaenanche</span> and relevant taxa. (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>). Geographic distribution in relation to Köppen climate classification. (<b>D</b>). Köppen climate profiles. (<b>E</b>). Minimum monthly temperatures (MinMTs). The climate map was generated in Qgis based on Cui et al. [<a href="#B27-biology-13-01079" class="html-bibr">27</a>]. The distribution and climate profiles for each species are available in the <a href="#app1-biology-13-01079" class="html-app">Supplementary Materials File S2</a>. Af = fully humid equatorial rainforest, Am = equatorial monsoonal, Aw = winter dry equatorial savannah, BSh = hot arid steppe, BSk = cold arid steppe, BWh = hot arid desert, BWk = cold arid desert, Cfa = fully humid warm temperate with hot summer, Cfb = fully humid warm temperate with warm summer, Csa = summer dry warm temperate with hot summer, Csb = summer dry warm temperate with warm summer, Cwa = winter dry warm temperate with hot summer, Cwb = winter dry warm temperate with warm summer, and ET = polar tundra climates.</p>
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<p>Geographic distribution and Biome parameters for <span class="html-italic">Hyaenanche</span> and relevant taxa. (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>). Geographic distribution in relation to Biomes. (<b>D</b>). Biome profiles (proportional occupied biomes). The Biome map was generated in Qgis based on Olson [<a href="#B22-biology-13-01079" class="html-bibr">22</a>]. The distribution and Biome profiles for each species are available in the <a href="#app1-biology-13-01079" class="html-app">Supplementary Materials File S2</a>.</p>
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<p>Fossil records and extant distribution of <span class="html-italic">Hyaenanche</span> and relevant taxa. For fossil taxa, consult records listed in <a href="#biology-13-01079-t001" class="html-table">Table 1</a>, <a href="#biology-13-01079-t002" class="html-table">Table 2</a>, <a href="#biology-13-01079-t003" class="html-table">Table 3</a> and <a href="#biology-13-01079-t004" class="html-table">Table 4</a>.</p>
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16 pages, 2518 KiB  
Article
Application of Environmental DNA Metabarcoding to Differentiate Algal Communities by Littoral Zonation and Detect Unreported Algal Species
by Sergei Bombin, Andrei Bombin, Brian Wysor and Juan M. Lopez-Bautista
Phycology 2024, 4(4), 605-620; https://doi.org/10.3390/phycology4040033 - 18 Dec 2024
Viewed by 289
Abstract
Coastal areas are the most biologically productive and undoubtedly among the most complex ecosystems. Algae are responsible for most of the gross primary production in these coastal regions. However, despite the critical importance of algae for the global ecosystem, the biodiversity of many [...] Read more.
Coastal areas are the most biologically productive and undoubtedly among the most complex ecosystems. Algae are responsible for most of the gross primary production in these coastal regions. However, despite the critical importance of algae for the global ecosystem, the biodiversity of many algal groups is understudied, partially due to the high complexity of morphologically identifying algal species. The current study aimed to take advantage of the recently developed technology for biotic community assessment through the high-throughput sequencing (HTS) of environmental DNA (eDNA), known as the “eDNA metabarcoding”, to characterize littoral algal communities in the Northern Gulf of Mexico (NGoM). This study demonstrated that eDNA metabarcoding, based on the universal plastid amplicon (UPA) and part of the large nuclear ribosomal subunit (LSU) molecular markers, could successfully differentiate coastal biotic communities among littoral zones and geographical locations along the shoreline of the NGoM. The statistical significance of separation between biotic communities was partially dependent on the dissimilarity calculation metric; thus, the differentiation of algal community structure according to littoral zones was more distinct when phylogenetic distances were incorporated into the diversity analysis. Current work demonstrated that the relative abundance of algal species obtained with eDNA metabarcoding matches previously established zonation patterns for these species. In addition, the present study detected molecular signals of 44 algal species without previous reports for the Gulf of Mexico, thus providing an important, molecular-validated baseline of species richness for this region. Full article
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<p>Alpha diversity distributions of identified algal communities. Diversity is calculated using the Shannon index. Samples are grouped based on the geographical location: (<b>a</b>) UPA-algae and (<b>b</b>) LSU-algae, zones: (<b>c</b>) UPA-algae and (<b>d</b>) LSU-algae, and sampling year: (<b>e</b>) UPA-algae and (<b>f</b>) LSU-algae. The boxplots display the distribution of alpha diversity values: the horizontal line within each box represents the median, the edges of the box show the interquartile range (IQR), and the whiskers indicate variability outside the IQR up to 1.5 times the IQR. Outliers are represented by individual points beyond the whiskers.</p>
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<p>Linear discriminant analyses of algal communities based on Weighted UniFrac distances among geographical locations (GL) and littoral zones (ZN). (<b>a</b>) UPA-GL, (<b>b</b>) LSU-GL, (<b>c</b>) UPA-ZN, and (<b>d</b>) LSU-ZN.</p>
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<p>Algal species distribution among zones. Only algal species with an abundance ≥ 0.01% were included. (<b>a</b>) shows species recovered by the UPA and (<b>b</b>) LSU molecular markers. Species arranged in order from smallest to largest <span class="html-italic">p</span>-values obtained via the Kruskal–Wallis test. Framed species have a <span class="html-italic">p</span>-value ≤ 0.05.</p>
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24 pages, 9166 KiB  
Article
A Predictive Analysis of Beach Susceptibility to Jellyfish Arrivals in Costa del Sol
by Ana de la Fuente Roselló, María Jesús Perles Roselló and Francisco José Cantarero Prados
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2316; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122316 - 17 Dec 2024
Viewed by 328
Abstract
This study investigates the susceptibility of beaches to jellyfish arrivals, focusing on the summer seasons from 2015 to 2020. The objective was to develop a predictive model that identifies the characteristics of beaches prone to higher jellyfish presence. This research utilized data from [...] Read more.
This study investigates the susceptibility of beaches to jellyfish arrivals, focusing on the summer seasons from 2015 to 2020. The objective was to develop a predictive model that identifies the characteristics of beaches prone to higher jellyfish presence. This research utilized data from the Infomedusa application, with a focus on key structural and circumstantial variables, such as beach orientation, coastal currents, and morphology. Binomial logistic regression was applied to two models to assess the influence of these variables on jellyfish occurrence. The results showed that beaches oriented toward the east and south, with protection from natural or artificial barriers, and those with limited open sea exposure are more likely to experience jellyfish arrivals. Conversely, beaches facing southwest, with opposing currents and freshwater inflows, tend to have lower risks. Although the models’ predictive capacity was moderate, with a 76% validation rate against empirical data, they provided valuable insights for coastal management and risk prevention. The findings highlight the importance of beach-specific characteristics in forecasting jellyfish presence, contributing to more effective coastal protection strategies. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Monitoring and Analysis of Coastal Hazard Risks)
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<p>Selected beaches for the analysis of conditioning factors of hazard. Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>Variables considered related to the occurrence of jellyfish. Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>ROC curve and indicators of prediction validity for predictive Model B.1 (logistic regression with all variables). Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>ROC curve and indicators of prediction validity for predictive Model B.2 (logistic regression with statistically significant variables). Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>Most determinant variables and hazard trends. Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>Predicted beaches with high and very high susceptibility where low susceptibility factors do not occur. Comparative analysis with hazard values. Source: own elaboration.</p>
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<p>Riverbeds in the Estepona–Nueva Andalucía section (Marbella). Source: own elaboration.</p>
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25 pages, 8871 KiB  
Article
Abundance, Size Structure, and Growth of the Invasive Blue Crab Callinectes sapidus in the Lesina Lagoon, Southern Adriatic Sea
by Giorgio Mancinelli, Nicola Lago, Tommaso Scirocco, Oscar Antonio Lillo, Raffaele De Giorgi, Lorenzo Doria, Emanuele Mancini, Francesco Mancini, Luigi Potenza and Lucrezia Cilenti
Biology 2024, 13(12), 1051; https://doi.org/10.3390/biology13121051 - 15 Dec 2024
Viewed by 841
Abstract
The fishery biology of the invasive Atlantic blue crab Callinectes sapidus in the Mediterranean Sea outside the eastern sectors of the basin has been only recently investigated. Here we studied the population of C. sapidus in the Lesina Lagoon (Adriatic Sea, SE Italy). [...] Read more.
The fishery biology of the invasive Atlantic blue crab Callinectes sapidus in the Mediterranean Sea outside the eastern sectors of the basin has been only recently investigated. Here we studied the population of C. sapidus in the Lesina Lagoon (Adriatic Sea, SE Italy). In total, 838 crabs were captured monthly between February 2021 and January 2022 using fyke nets. Abundances varied seasonally with catches per unit effort ranging between 0 and 1.76 crabs fyke nets−1 d−1 in winter and summer. Spatial abundances estimated in summer by a Carle–Strub procedure ranged between 0.06 and 0.64 crabs m−2. The sex ratio (♂/♀) was close to 1:1; males prevailed only in August and September; ovigerous females occurred from April to August. The males’ size at morphological maturity was smaller than females (110.6–112.3 mm vs. 122.1–123.1 mm). Seasonal von Bertalanffy growth parameters indicated that, compared with males, females showed a shorter maximum lifespan (5 vs. 8 years), a higher growth coefficient K (0.6 vs. 0.4 y−1) and growth performance index Ф’ (4.6 vs. 4.3), while maximum sizes CW∞ (237.8 vs. 232.6 mm) and seasonality indices C (0.62 vs. 0.57) were similar. Furthermore, females showed higher natural and fishing mortalities and exploitation rate. We discussed the results of the present study in the context of the available literature to provide a valuable basis for the implementation of standardized Mediterranean-scale management plans, matching exploitation of C. sapidus with sustainable conservation of coastal ecosystems. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Alien Marine Species in the Mediterranean Sea)
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<p>(<b>a</b>) The Lesina Lagoon. Red circles and consecutive numbers indicate the location of the four fixed installations used to capture <span class="html-italic">Callinectes sapidus</span> specimens during the study period. (<b>b</b>) Illustration of a typical fyke similar to those used in the study. See the text for additional details on dimensions and sampling procedures. Source: <a href="https://www.fao.org/fishery/en/geartype/226/en" target="_blank">https://www.fao.org/fishery/en/geartype/226/en</a> (accessed on 22 September 2024) [<a href="#B59-biology-13-01051" class="html-bibr">59</a>], Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Reproduced with permission (<b>c</b>). Schematic representation of the fixed installation located at Site 1. Please note that the figure is not in scale. Identical installations were located at each of the remaining sampling sites identified in <a href="#biology-13-01051-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>a.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Variation in mean (±1SE, <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 4) water temperature (°C) and salinity (PSU) in the study area during the investigation. (<b>b</b>) Air temperatures (°C) and precipitations (mm) measured at the ARPA-Puglia climatic station located in the city of San Severo (FG, Italy) during the study period. See the text for additional details. Air temperatures are expressed as monthly means of hourly measurements ± 1SE (boxes); whiskers are 95% confidence intervals. Precipitation data are cumulated at a monthly scale.</p>
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<p>Variation in mean (±1SE, <span class="html-italic">n</span> = 4) monthly catches per unit effort (CPUE, measured as N. individuals fyke nets−<sup>1</sup> d<sup>−1</sup>) of blue crabs determined during the investigation. CPUE values are reported for sexes combined and for the two sexes separately.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Sex ratio of blue crabs captured during the investigation. The blue dashed line identifies the 1:1 ratio. Red bars indicate significant departures from a 1:1 ratio (χ<sup>2</sup> test, <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.05 after correction for multiple tests) indicated by the blue dashed line. Statistical results for February and November 2021 should be considered with caution given the low number of total specimens collected (&lt;10). (<b>b</b>) Number of ovigerous females at three color-determined egg stages (stage 1 = yellow; stage 2 = brown; stage 3 = black) captured during the investigation.</p>
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<p>Frequency distributions of the carapace widths of blue crabs captured during the investigation for sexes combined (<b>a</b>), females only (<b>b</b>) and males only (<b>c</b>). Frequency distribution histograms include the modes identified by the modal analysis performed using the Bhattacharya method (bottom plots). See text for additional details.</p>
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<p>Monthly frequency distributions of the carapace widths of blue crabs captured during the investigation expressed in terms of sexes combined (<b>a</b>), females (<b>b</b>), and males (<b>c</b>).</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Relationship between carapace widths and lengths (in mm) in female blue crabs; linear regression models are fitted to individual data subjected to a classification procedure (see text for details). The regression equation and the total explained variance (R<sup>2</sup>) are provided for each linear model; the results of an ANCOVA testing for statistically significant differences in the slopes of the two models are included. (<b>b</b>) The mean size at maturity (L50) of female blue crabs estimated using a bootstrapped binomial model applied to individuals classified as mature or immature through the analysis of carapace width–length relationships (L50<sub>CW-CL</sub>). Shaded areas represent 95% bootstrapped confidence intervals. L50 values estimated using a Bayesian procedure are reported in square brackets.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Relationship between carapace widths and lengths (in mm) in male blue crabs; linear regression models are fitted to individual data subjected to a classification procedure (see text for details). The regression equation and the total explained variance (R<sup>2</sup>) are provided for each linear model; the results of an ANCOVA testing for statistically significant differences in the slopes of the two models are included. (<b>b</b>) The mean size at maturity (L50) of male blue crabs estimated using a bootstrapped binomial model applied to individuals classified as mature or immature through the analysis of carapace width–length relationships (L50<sub>CW-CL</sub>). Shaded areas represent 95% bootstrapped confidence intervals. L50 values estimated using a Bayesian procedure are reported in square brackets.</p>
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<p>The mean size at maturity (L50) of female (<b>a</b>) and male (<b>b</b>) blue crabs estimated using a bootstrapped binomial model applied to individuals classified as mature or immature by the shape of their apron. Shaded areas represent 95% bootstrapped confidence intervals.</p>
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<p>Restructured CW–frequency distributions with seasonal von Bertalanffy growth curves of blue crabs captured during the investigation expressed in terms of both sexes (<b>a</b>), females (<b>b</b>), and males (<b>c</b>).</p>
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18 pages, 6778 KiB  
Article
An Interpretable CatBoost Model Guided by Spectral Morphological Features for the Inversion of Coastal Water Quality Parameters
by Baofeng Chen, Yunzhi Chen and Hongmei Chen
Water 2024, 16(24), 3615; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16243615 - 15 Dec 2024
Viewed by 494
Abstract
Chlorophyll-a (Chla) and total suspended solid (TSS) concentrations are important parameters for water quality assessment, and in recent years, machine learning has been shown to have great potential in this field. However, current water quality parameter inversion models lack interpretability and rarely consider [...] Read more.
Chlorophyll-a (Chla) and total suspended solid (TSS) concentrations are important parameters for water quality assessment, and in recent years, machine learning has been shown to have great potential in this field. However, current water quality parameter inversion models lack interpretability and rarely consider the morphological characteristics of the spectrum. To address this limitation, we used Sentinel-3 OLCI data to construct an interpretable CatBoost model guided by spectral morphological characteristics for remote sensing monitoring of Chla and TSS along the coast of Fujian. The results show that the coastal waters of Fujian Province can be divided into five clusters, and the areas of different clusters will change with the alternation of seasons. Clusters 2 and 4 are the main types of coastal waters. The CatBoost model combined with spectral feature engineering has a high accuracy in predicting Chla and TSS, among which Chla is slightly better than TSS (R2 = 0.88, MSE = 8.21, MAPE = 1.10 for Chla predictions; R2 = 0.77, MSE = 380.49, MAPE = 2.48 for TSS predictions). We further conducted an interpretability analysis on the model output and found that the combination of BRI and TBI indexes composed of bands such as b8, b9, and b10 and the fluctuation of spectral curves will have a significant impact on the prediction of model output. The interpretable CatBoost model based on spectral morphological features proposed in this study can provide an effective technical means of estimating the chlorophyll-a and total suspended particulate matter concentrations in the coastal areas of Fujian. Full article
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<p>Location of Fujian Province and study area.</p>
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<p>GLORIA data points used in the study.</p>
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<p>Research flow chart.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Average spectral curve of each category. (<b>b</b>) Chla concentration distribution of different clusters. (<b>c</b>) TSS concentration distribution of different clusters.</p>
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<p>Clustering results of coastal water bodies in Fujian Province in different seasons. Figures (<b>a</b>–<b>d</b>) show the average maps of water classification for spring, summer, autumn, and winter.</p>
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<p>The structure of the CatBoost algorithm.</p>
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<p>Prediction results of the CatBoost model on the test set (the red line is the trend line).</p>
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<p>Interpretability results of spectral features for CatBoost inversion model of Chla and TSS by SHAP analysis. Figure (<b>a</b>) shows the local explainable results of Chla, Figure (<b>b</b>) shows the global explainable results of Chla, Figure (<b>c</b>) shows the local explainable results of TSS, and Figure (<b>d</b>) shows the global explainable results of TSS. (In the left column chart, one dot represents a sample, where warmer colors indicate larger values of the feature, and vice versa. The wider the distribution of SHAP values for a feature, the larger its global SHAP value, indicating that the feature has a greater impact on the model. In the right column chart, the white numbers on the blue bar represent the average absolute SHAP value [<a href="#B44-water-16-03615" class="html-bibr">44</a>].)</p>
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<p>Annual average concentration distribution map of Chla and TSS along the coast of Fujian Province from 2021 to 2023. (<b>a</b>–<b>c</b>) is the average concentration of Chla, and (<b>d</b>–<b>f</b>) is the average concentration of TSS.</p>
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<p>Average Chla and TSS concentration values in different seasons along the coast of Fujian Province from 2021 to 2023. The four graphs on the left (<b>a</b>–<b>d</b>) show the average concentration of Chla, while the four graphs on the right (<b>e</b>–<b>h</b>) show the average concentration of TSS.</p>
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15 pages, 12983 KiB  
Article
Study on the Macro-/Micrometric Characteristics and Mechanical Properties of Clayey Sandy Dredged Fill in the Guangdong Area
by Qiunan Chen, Xiaodi Xu, Ao Zeng, Yunyang Yan, Yan Feng, Kun Long and Chenna Qi
Materials 2024, 17(23), 6018; https://doi.org/10.3390/ma17236018 - 9 Dec 2024
Viewed by 352
Abstract
The study of dredged fill in Guangdong (GD), China, is of great significance for reclamation projects. Currently, there are relatively few studies on dredged fill in Guangdong, and there are many differences in the engineering characteristics of dredged fill foundations formed through land [...] Read more.
The study of dredged fill in Guangdong (GD), China, is of great significance for reclamation projects. Currently, there are relatively few studies on dredged fill in Guangdong, and there are many differences in the engineering characteristics of dredged fill foundations formed through land reclamation and natural foundations. In order to have a more comprehensive understanding of the physico-mechanical properties of blowing fill in the coastal area of GD and to understand the effect of its long-term creep row on the long-term settlement and deformation of buildings, the material properties, microstructure, elemental composition, triaxial shear properties, and triaxial creep properties of dredged fill in Guangdong were studied and analyzed through indoor geotechnical tests, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and conventional triaxial shear tests and triaxial creep tests. The test results showed that the Guangdong dredged fill is characterized by a high water content, high pore ratio, and high-liquid-limit clayey sand, and the mineral composition is dominated by quartz and whitmoreite. The scanning electron microscopy results showed that the particles of the dredged fill showed an agglomerated morphology, and the surface of the test soil samples had scaly fine flakes and a fragmented structure. In the triaxial shear test, the GD dredged fill showed strain hardening characteristics, and the effective stress path showed continuous loading characteristics; the consolidated undrained shear test showed that the GD dredged fill had shear expansion characteristics under low-perimeter-pressure conditions. It was found that, with an increase in bias stress, the axial strain in the consolidated undrained triaxial creep test under the same perimeter pressure conditions gradually exceeded the axial strain in the consolidated drained triaxial creep test. The results of this study are of theoretical and practical significance for further understanding the mechanical properties of silty soils in the region and for the rational selection of soil strength parameters in practical engineering design. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Rock-Like Material Characterization and Engineering Properties)
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<p>Soil extraction site.</p>
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<p>Dredged fill.</p>
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<p>XRD pattern.</p>
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<p>Elemental analysis of soil samples.</p>
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<p>Soil samples magnified 4000 times.</p>
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<p>Soil samples magnified 10,000 times.</p>
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<p>GDS triaxial stress path test.</p>
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<p>Triaxial creep test instrument and a tested soil sample.</p>
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<p>CU shear test results.</p>
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<p>CU shear test results.</p>
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<p>CD shear test results.</p>
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<p>Shear end CU test specimens.</p>
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<p>Shear end CD test specimens.</p>
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<p>Full CU and CD triaxial creep results.</p>
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<p>CU triaxial graded-loading creep curve.</p>
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<p>CU triaxial graded-loading creep curve.</p>
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<p>CD triaxial graded-loading creep curve.</p>
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20 pages, 5171 KiB  
Article
Quantification of Nearshore Sandbar Seasonal Evolution Based on Drone Pseudo-Bathymetry Time-Lapse Data
by Evangelos Alevizos
Remote Sens. 2024, 16(23), 4551; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs16234551 - 4 Dec 2024
Viewed by 1000
Abstract
Nearshore sandbars are dynamic features that characterize shallow morphobathymetry and vary over a wide range of geometries and temporal lifespans. Nearshore sandbars influence beach geometry by altering the energy of incoming waves; thus, monitoring the evolution of sandbars is a fundamental approach in [...] Read more.
Nearshore sandbars are dynamic features that characterize shallow morphobathymetry and vary over a wide range of geometries and temporal lifespans. Nearshore sandbars influence beach geometry by altering the energy of incoming waves; thus, monitoring the evolution of sandbars is a fundamental approach in effective coastal planning. Due to several natural and technical limitations related to shallow seafloor mapping, there is a significant gap in the availability of high-resolution, shallow bathymetric data for monitoring the dynamic behaviour of nearshore sandbars effectively. This study introduces a novel image-processing technique that produces time series of pseudo-bathymetric data by utilizing multi-temporal (monthly) drone imagery, and it provides an assessment of local morphodynamics at a sandy beach in the southeast Mediterranean. The technique is called standardized-ratio bathymetric index (SRBI), and it transforms natural-colour drone imagery to pseudo-bathymetric data by applying an empirical formula used for satellite-derived bathymetry. This technique correlates well with laser altimetry depth measurements; however, it does not require in situ depth data for implementation. The resulting pseudo-bathymetric data allows for extracting cross-shore profiles and delineating the sandbar crest with 4 m horizontal accuracy. Stacking of temporal profiles allowed for the quantification of the sandbar’s crest and trough changes at different alongshore sections. The main findings suggest that the nearshore crescentic sandbar at Episkopi Beach (north Crete) shows strong seasonality regarding net offshore migration that is promoted by enhanced wave action during winter months. In addition, the crescentic sandbar is susceptible to morphology arrestment during prolonged weeks of low wave action. The average migration rate during winter is 10 m.month−1, with some sections exhibiting a maximum of 60 m.month−1. This study (a) offers a novel remote-sensing approach, suitable for nearshore seafloor monitoring with low computational complexity, (b) reveals sandbar geometry and temporal change in superior detail compared to other observational methods, and (c) advances knowledge about nearshore sandbar monitoring in the Mediterranean region. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Remote Sensing in Geology, Geomorphology and Hydrology)
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Figure 1
<p>Overview of the study area. Example RGB orthomosaic overlaid on Google Earth basemap. The red square shows the location of the study area on the island of Crete. The white lines mark the cross-shore profile positions, which are examined in the Results section.</p>
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<p>Workflow diagram followed for data processing and analysis.</p>
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<p>(<b>A</b>) Linear relation (<span class="html-italic">R</span><sup>2</sup> = 0.97, <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001) between the natural logarithms of Green and Red bands from 19 points with increasing distance from the coastline (<a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f0A1" class="html-fig">Figure A1</a>, <a href="#app1-remotesensing-16-04551" class="html-app">Appendix A</a>); (<b>B</b>) Linear relation (<span class="html-italic">R</span><sup>2</sup> = 0.88, <span class="html-italic">p</span> &lt; 0.001) between 203 bathymetric points derived from ICESAT-2 LiDAR data (25 February 2023) and corresponding SRBI values from 17 February 2023 orthomosaics. Red dotted lines indicate the regression trend.</p>
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<p>Significant wave height (Hs) and direction from (<b>A</b>) November 2022 to June 2023; (<b>B</b>) July 2023 to November 2023. The red stars indicate the date of the drone surveys. Only wave directions between 0–90° and 270–360° azimuth are presented.</p>
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<p>Temporal pseudo-bathymetric models based on SRBI grids of the study area. The black dotted line indicates the crest of the intermediate sandbar. The white rectangles correspond to the zoomed-in areas shown in <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f006" class="html-fig">Figure 6</a>. Please note that the inner and outer bars are not always detected because (<a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f006" class="html-fig">Figure 6</a>a) the outer bar is mainly in the seaward side of the area and is only partially captured in the mosaics, and (<a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f006" class="html-fig">Figure 6</a>b) the inner bar is often welded with the shallow platform and does not show a clear morphology.</p>
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<p>Close-up frames of characteristic morpho-bathymetric features in natural colour and SRBI grids: (<b>a</b>,<b>b</b>) Sand-waves within the trough of a large crescentic bar, April 2023; (<b>c</b>,<b>d</b>) Rip-channel and trough of crescentic bar segment, November 2022; (<b>e</b>,<b>f</b>) Integration of intermediate and inner crescentic bar segments, May 2023. The exact positions of the frames are shown in <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f005" class="html-fig">Figure 5</a>.</p>
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<p>Temporal stacks of the cross-shore profiles (C1–C10, <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>). Contours relate to SRBI values (0.3 step). Numbers 1–12 correspond to the survey month, as presented in <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-t001" class="html-table">Table 1</a>.</p>
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<p>Differential distance of sandbar crest from the coastline between consecutive months.</p>
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<p>(<b>A</b>) Temporal bar crest positions overlaid on SRBI range mosaic (the largest absolute difference in pixel values during the 1-year monitoring period), with bright hues indicating large variability. (<b>B</b>) Points p1–p4 show the temporal variability of the SRBI at four exemplary locations.</p>
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<p>The orange points correspond to the locations used for extracting the band logarithm values in <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f003" class="html-fig">Figure 3</a>A. The green points correspond to the tracks of the ICESAT-2 LiDAR data used in <a href="#remotesensing-16-04551-f003" class="html-fig">Figure 3</a>B (dataset labels in white text). All points are overlaid on the 17 February 2023 drone RGB orthomosaic.</p>
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18 pages, 9648 KiB  
Article
Estimation of Beach Profile Response on Coastal Hydrodynamics Using LSTM-Based Encoder–Decoder Network
by Yongseok Lee, Sungyeol Chang, Jinhoon Kim and Inho Kim
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2212; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122212 - 2 Dec 2024
Viewed by 499
Abstract
Beach profiles are constantly changing due to external ocean forces. Estimating these changes is crucial to understanding and addressing coastal erosion issues, such as shoreline advance and retreat. To estimate beach profile changes, obtaining long-term, high-resolution spatiotemporal beach profile data is essential. However, [...] Read more.
Beach profiles are constantly changing due to external ocean forces. Estimating these changes is crucial to understanding and addressing coastal erosion issues, such as shoreline advance and retreat. To estimate beach profile changes, obtaining long-term, high-resolution spatiotemporal beach profile data is essential. However, due to the limited availability of beach profile survey data both on land and underwater along the coast, generating continuous, high-resolution spatiotemporal beach profile data over extended periods is a critical technological challenge. Therefore, we herein developed a long short-term memory-based encoder–decoder network for effective spatiotemporal representation learning to estimate beach profile responses on temporal scales from weeks to months from coastal hydrodynamics. The proposed approach was applied to 12 transects from seven beaches located in three different littoral systems on the east coast of the Korean Peninsula, where coastal erosion problems are severe. The performance of the proposed method demonstrated improved results compared with a recent study that performed the same beach profile estimation task, with an average root mean square error of 0.50 m. Moreover, most of the results exhibited a reasonably accurate morphological shape of the estimated beach profile. However, instances where the results exceed the average error are attributed to extreme beach morphological changes caused by storm waves such as typhoons. Full article
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Figure 1
<p>Study area of (<b>a</b>) three littoral cell systems on the east coast of Gangwon Province, South Korea: GW13, GW17, and GW31. (<b>b</b>) Three survey transects of GW13−02, GW13−04, and GW13−07 for GW13; (<b>c</b>) four survey transects of GW17−03, GW17−05, GW17−08, and GW17−11 for GW17; and (<b>d</b>) five survey transects of GW31−04, GW31−08, GW31−11, GW31−14, and GW31−17 for GW31.</p>
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<p>Coastal hydrodynamics of GW13, GW17, and GW31: (<b>a</b>) significant wave height (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>H</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>), (<b>b</b>) mean absolute wave period (<math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>T</mi> <mi>m</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>-10), (<b>c</b>) mean wave direction (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>M</mi> <mi>W</mi> <mi>D</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>), and (<b>d</b>) water level from 2010 to 2024.</p>
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<p>Distribution of (<b>a</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>H</mi> <mi>s</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>, (<b>b</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <msub> <mi>T</mi> <mi>m</mi> </msub> </semantics></math>-10, (<b>c</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>M</mi> <mi>W</mi> <mi>D</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>, and (<b>d</b>) water levels from 2010 to 2024 at GW13, GW17, and GW31.</p>
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<p>Time series of beach width surveyed for each cross-section at the three littoral cell systems (<b>a</b>) GW13 (including the three transects GW13−02, GW13−04, and GW13−07), (<b>b</b>) GW17 (including the four transects of GW17−03, GW17−05, GW17−08, and GW17−11), and (<b>c</b>) GW31 (including the five transects GW31−04, GW31−08, GW31−11, GW31−14, and GW31−17). The blue vertical dotted line denotes the survey time point.</p>
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<p>Cross-shore beach profiles measured at transects (<b>a</b>) GW13−02, (<b>b</b>) GW13−04, and (<b>c</b>) GW13−07 from 2010 to 2024, as shown in <a href="#jmse-12-02212-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>b. The mean profile is represented by the black dotted line. Note that the maximum y-axis in (<b>c</b>) is 8 m, unlike all other beach profile figures, which have a maximum of 6 m.</p>
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<p>Cross-shore beach profiles measured at transects (<b>a</b>) GW17−03, (<b>b</b>) GW17−05, (<b>c</b>) GW17−08, and (<b>d</b>) GW17−11 from 2010 to 2024, as depicted in <a href="#jmse-12-02212-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>c. The mean profile is represented by the black dotted line.</p>
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<p>Cross-shore beach profiles measured at transects (<b>a</b>) GW31−04, (<b>b</b>) GW31−08, (<b>c</b>) GW31−11, (<b>d</b>) GW31−14, and (<b>e</b>) GW31−17 from 2010 to 2024, as shown in <a href="#jmse-12-02212-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a>d. The mean profile is represented by the black dotted line.</p>
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<p>The survey time points for beach width (blue solid line and red dotted line) and beach profile (red dotted line) for the transects of GW13, GW17, and GW31.</p>
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<p>Architectural details of the proposed LSTM-based encoder–decoder network for beach profile estimation: (<b>a</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>r</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>b</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mspace width="3.33333pt"/> <mi>E</mi> <mi>n</mi> <mi>c</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>d</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mi>r</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> for hydrodynamic input, (<b>b</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>r</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>b</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mspace width="3.33333pt"/> <mi>E</mi> <mi>n</mi> <mi>c</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>d</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mi>r</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> for beach width and beach profile, and (<b>c</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>r</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>a</mi> <mi>b</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mspace width="3.33333pt"/> <mi>D</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mi>c</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>d</mi> <mi>e</mi> <mi>r</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>.</p>
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<p>Experimental details regarding the input and output of the proposed LSTM-based encoder–decoder network for beach profile estimation.</p>
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<p>Visualization of some results from the estimated beach profiles.</p>
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28 pages, 24331 KiB  
Article
A Holistic Approach for Coastal–Watershed Management on Tourist Islands: A Case Study from Petra–Molyvos Coast, Lesvos Island (Greece)
by Stamatia Papasarafianou, Ilias Siarkos, Aliki Gkaifyllia, Stavros Sahtouris, Giada Varra, Antonis Chatzipavlis, Thomas Hasiotis and Ourania Tzoraki
Geosciences 2024, 14(12), 326; https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences14120326 - 2 Dec 2024
Viewed by 899
Abstract
Shoreline configurations are a complex outcome of the dynamic interplay between natural forces and human actions. This interaction shapes unique coastal morphologies and affects sediment transport and erosion patterns along the coastline. Meanwhile, ephemeral river systems play a vital role in shaping coastlines [...] Read more.
Shoreline configurations are a complex outcome of the dynamic interplay between natural forces and human actions. This interaction shapes unique coastal morphologies and affects sediment transport and erosion patterns along the coastline. Meanwhile, ephemeral river systems play a vital role in shaping coastlines and maintaining ecosystem sustainability, especially in island settings. In this context, the present study seeks to develop a holistic approach that views coast and watershed systems as a continuum, aiming to investigate their relationships in an island environment, while accounting for human interventions in the river regime. For this task, the empirical USLE method was employed to quantify sediment production and transport from the catchment area to the coast, while hydraulic simulations using HEC-RAS were conducted to assess sediment retention within flood-affected areas. Moreover, coastal vulnerability to erosion was evaluated by applying the InVEST CVI model in order to identify areas at risk from environmental threats. The coastal zone of Petra–Molyvos, Lesvos, Greece, was selected as the study area due to ongoing erosion issues, with particular emphasis on its interaction with the Petra stream as a result of significant human intervention at its mouth. According to the study’s findings, the examined coastal zone is highly vulnerable to combined erosion from wind and waves, while the river’s mouth receives only a small amount of sediment from water fluxes. Evidently, this leads to an increase in beach retreat phenomena, while highlighting the necessity for integrated coastal–watershed management. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Hydrogeology)
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<p>(<b>a</b>) A location map of Lesvos Island, Greece, and Petra–Molyvos beach, (<b>b</b>) the coastal area, referred to as the “Vulnerability area”, where the vulnerability assessment was conducted (including topographic details), along with the main streams interacting with the coast, the mouths of the most significant streams such as Molyvos, Petra, and Anaxos rivers, and the boundaries of the Petra hydrological basin, which was included in the study analysis, and (<b>c</b>) topographic and hydrological details of the Petra basin, together with the area referred to as the “Flood Assessment Area”, where flood risk assessment was performed.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) The geomorphology of the coast under study, along with the geological formations identified in the region, and (<b>b</b>) the types of land use observed throughout the broader area, referring to the year 2018 (112—discontinuous urban fabric, 131—mineral extraction sites, 142—sport and leisure facilities, 211—non-irrigated arable land, 223—olive groves, 231—pastures, 242—composite culture systems, 243—land principally occupied by agriculture, 312—coniferous forest, 321—natural grassland, 323—sclerophyllous vegetation, 324—transitional woodland/shrub, 523—sea and ocean).</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) The geological background of the Petra basin, and (<b>b</b>) the types of land use within the Petra basin, referring to the year 2018 (112—discontinuous urban fabric, 131—mineral extraction sites, 211—non-irrigated arable land, 223—olive groves, 242—composite culture systems, 243—land principally occupied by agriculture, 311—broad-leaved forest, 312—coniferous forest, 324—transitional woodland/shrub).</p>
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<p>Graphical representation of the methodological framework developed in the present study to investigate the interconnection among coastal vulnerability, sediment transport, and river flood risk.</p>
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<p>A Windrose depicting the primary wind directions in Petra–Molyvos and used to estimate wind exposure in the study area, during the period from 2017 to 2022.</p>
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<p>Map depiction of USLE factors for the Petra basin: (<b>a</b>) K-factor, (<b>b</b>) LS-factor, (<b>c</b>) C-factor, and (<b>d</b>) P-factor.</p>
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<p>The seven sub-basins and the three junctions (J1–J3) of the study area, along with the main tributaries (SB1–SB7), the “Flood Assessment Area” and the nine cross-sections located in its interior and considered in the hydraulic simulations.</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) The ranking evaluation of the first three parameters, i.e., Relief, Surge Potential, and Wind, of the coastal exposure index, (<b>b</b>) the ranking evaluation of the remaining parameters, i.e., Geomorphology, Habitats, Wave, alongside the Coastal Vulnerability estimated by the INVEST model considering all six parameters, and (<b>c</b>) Coastal Vulnerability also considering Sea Level Rise over a 10-year return period for the projected scenario RCP 8.5, compared to the previously estimated baseline scenario.</p>
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<p>Soil loss distribution for the Petra basin (the areal percentage of each soil erosion class is given in parentheses).</p>
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<p>Integrative water surface profile along the examined reach within the “Flood Assessment Area”, together with the plan view of water surface elevation at cross-sections XS-2, XS-7, and XS-8, for the three different flow profiles (5-year, 50-year, and 100-year return periods).</p>
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<p>Flood inundation maps for the three different recurrence intervals (5-year, 50-year, and 100-year return periods).</p>
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<p>Inundated areas in each type of land use (112—discontinuous urban fabric, 242—composite culture systems) for the three different recurrence intervals (5-year, 50-year, and 100-year return periods).</p>
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<p>Impact of natural and human factors on the coast–watershed system in the area of interest: (<b>a</b>) coastline morphology adjacent to the Petra river’s mouth in 2003 (Google Earth Image), (<b>b</b>) coastline morphology adjacent to the Petra river’s mouth both in 2003 and 2024 (Google Earth Image), clearly illustrating beach retreat over these years, (<b>c</b>) human interventions (i.e., bridge, channelization) in the riverbed, and (<b>d</b>) human interventions in the river’s mouth (Petra beach).</p>
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21 pages, 12409 KiB  
Article
Morphological Diversity of Desmiophyllum Lesquereux Fossil Leaves and Related Palaeoenvironmental Implications from the Early Cretaceous of Northeastern Spain
by Luis M. Sender, Josué García-Cobeña, José B. Diez and Alberto Cobos
Diversity 2024, 16(12), 730; https://doi.org/10.3390/d16120730 - 28 Nov 2024
Viewed by 374
Abstract
A variety of leaves of different morphological sizes and venation types corresponding to the gymnosperm genus Desmiophyllum have been found in five fossil sites originating from the Barremian to the Cenomanian periods in northeastern Spain over an interval comprising 25 million years that [...] Read more.
A variety of leaves of different morphological sizes and venation types corresponding to the gymnosperm genus Desmiophyllum have been found in five fossil sites originating from the Barremian to the Cenomanian periods in northeastern Spain over an interval comprising 25 million years that encompasses the Early Cretaceous–Late Cretaceous boundary. These leaves are preserved in various lithologies corresponding to different depositional environments such as lagoonal systems, coastal swamps, deltaic plains, lacustrine environments and fluvial-related deposits. These new data shed light on the morphological and paleoenvironmental variability of Desmiophyllum recorded in the Cretaceous deposits from southwestern Eurasia. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Plant Diversity)
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<p>Geographical and geological setting of the localities bearing the studied leaves of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span>. (<b>A</b>) Geographical situation of the Maestrazgo Basin in the Iberian Peninsula. (<b>B</b>) Detailed paleogeographical reconstruction of the Maestrazgo Basin and corresponding sub-basins during the Early Cretaceous period, with localities bearing the leaves of the genus <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> indicated with red stars (modified from [<a href="#B39-diversity-16-00730" class="html-bibr">39</a>,<a href="#B40-diversity-16-00730" class="html-bibr">40</a>]). Abbreviations: Pl: Plou locality; Et: Estercuel locality; Ut: Utrillas locality; Ga: Galve locality; Mq: Mosqueruela locality.</p>
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<p>Synthetic stratigraphical section corresponding to the different geological formations in the western part of the Maestrazgo Basin from the late Early Cretaceous to Early–Late Cretaceous period with the indication of ages, lithostratigraphic units, related sedimentary environments, and situation of levels with fossil localities bearing leaves of the genus <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> (modified from [<a href="#B48-diversity-16-00730" class="html-bibr">48</a>]). Abbreviations: U. Cretac.: upper cretaceous; Cenom.: Cenomanian; Turon.: Turonian; Cas. Fm.: El Castellar Formation; B.M.U.: Boundary Marls Unit; Mosquer. Fm.: Mosqueruela Formation; Bco. Degoll. Fm.: Barranco de losDegollados Formation; Lac. pal.: Lacustrine—palustrine; Ga: Galve locality; Ut: Utrillas locality; Pl: Plou locality; Et: Estercuel locality; Mq: Mosqueruela locality.</p>
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<p>Leaves of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 1 from Galve locality. (<b>A</b>) Strap-shaped leaf showing parallel veins (MAP-9038); (<b>B</b>) leaf with partially frayed lamina (MAP-9032); (<b>C</b>) accumulation of several leaves, some of them preserved as bend laminae (arrows) in sandstones with patches of breccias (MAP-9038 to MAP-9042); and (<b>D</b>) three leaves disposed in an imbricate pattern (MAP-9033 to MAP-9035). Scale bars: 2 cm (<b>A</b>,<b>B</b>), 4 cm (<b>C</b>,<b>D</b>).</p>
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<p>Leaves of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 2 from the Utrillas locality. (<b>A</b>) accumulation of leaves of both “wide” and “narrow” subtypes of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 2 and branched axis of the conifer genus <span class="html-italic">Cyparissidium</span> (MAP-9051 to MAP-9060); (<b>B</b>) large medial–apical fragment of the leaf of the “wide subtype” (MAP-9082); (<b>C</b>) two large fragments of leaves of the “wide subtype” and axis of the conifer genus <span class="html-italic">Pagiophyllum</span> (MAP-9068 and MAP-9069); (<b>D</b>) leaf of the “wide subtype” (central leaf MAP-9083), a leaf of the “narrow subtype” (right leaf MAP-9084) and a thin leaf of an undetermined gymnosperm (left leaf); (<b>E</b>) a detail of the central area of (<b>A</b>) showing several leaves of the “narrow subtype”, some of them preserving the apex (MAP-9055 to MAP-9060); (<b>F</b>) detail of two leaves of the “narrow subtype” showing parallel veins converging to the apex (MAP-9061 and MAP-9062); and (<b>G</b>) detail of the medial part of a leaf of the “narrow subtype” showing entire margins and parallel venation pattern (MAP-9063). Scale bars: 4 cm (<b>A</b>,<b>B</b>), 2 cm (<b>C</b>–<b>E</b>), 1 cm (<b>F</b>,<b>G</b>).</p>
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<p>Leaves of the <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 2 “wide subtype” from the Utrillas locality. (<b>A</b>) fragment of a large strap-shaped leaf with profuse parallel venation (MAP-9070); (<b>B</b>) detail of the central area in (<b>A</b>) showing main gross veins and several intermediate thinner veins between them; (<b>C</b>,<b>D</b>) part and counterpart of a strap-shaped leaf with parallel venation preserving the base that is composed of a callus with parallel ridges and furrows (arrows) (MAP-9072); and (<b>E</b>) fragment of a leaf with extensively frayed lamina (MAP-9080). Scale bars: 2 cm (<b>A</b>,<b>C</b>–<b>E</b>), 1 cm (<b>B</b>).</p>
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<p>Leaves of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 3 from the Estercuel locality (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>), type 4 from the Mosqueruela locality (<b>D</b>) and type 5 also from the Estercuel locality (<b>E</b>). (<b>A</b>) fragment of a <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 3 leaf showing a venation pattern (MAP-9085); (<b>B</b>) fragment of the <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 3 leaf with frayed lamina MAP-9086); (<b>C</b>) detail of (<b>B</b>) showing multiple parallel veins; (<b>D</b>) large leaf of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 4 with acute apex and profuse parallel venation pattern (MAP-8827); (<b>E</b>) long leaf of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 5 from the Estercuel locality, preserving the apex and venation pattern with veins running along the lamina(MAP-9087). Scale bars: 2 cm (<b>A</b>), 1 cm (<b>B</b>), 5 mm (<b>C</b>), with each rectangle representing 1 cm (<b>D</b>) and 5 cm (<b>E</b>).</p>
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<p>Leaves of <span class="html-italic">Desmiophyllum</span> type 5 from the Estercuel locality (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>) and Plou locality (<b>D</b>–<b>G</b>). (<b>A</b>) thin strap-shaped leaf with parallel venation and lamina narrowing at the base and axis of conifer <span class="html-italic">Frenelopsis</span> (MAP-9088); (<b>B</b>) large fragment of the leaf preserving a parallel venation pattern and complete base (MAP-9089); (<b>C</b>) detail of the lower part of (<b>A</b>) showing truncate concave-shaped morphology at the insertion point of the leaf base; (<b>D</b>,<b>E</b>) central part of narrow strap-shaped leaves preserving the venation pattern (MAP-9098 and MAP-9095); and (<b>F</b>,<b>G</b>) details of (<b>D</b>,<b>E</b>), respectively, showing main parallel gross veins and intermediate thinner veins. Scale bars: 2 cm (<b>A</b>,<b>B</b>,<b>D</b>), 5 mm (<b>C</b>), 1 cm (<b>E</b>), 3 mm (<b>F</b>), and 2 mm (<b>G</b>).</p>
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19 pages, 10986 KiB  
Article
A Study on the Effects of Morphological Changes Due to the Construction of Multiple Coastal Structures
by Kyu-Tae Shim and Kyu-Han Kim
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(12), 2174; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12122174 - 28 Nov 2024
Viewed by 433
Abstract
The study area was Anin Beach, where a 1.48-km-long breakwater, consisting of a non-porous caisson, was constructed over 16 months. During this process, significant erosion occurred over a wide area behind the coast, with a maximum reduction in the beach width of 36 [...] Read more.
The study area was Anin Beach, where a 1.48-km-long breakwater, consisting of a non-porous caisson, was constructed over 16 months. During this process, significant erosion occurred over a wide area behind the coast, with a maximum reduction in the beach width of 36 m observed in the central part of the coastline. As a countermeasure to prevent erosion, a submerged breakwater was installed that consisted of concrete blocks and had a length of 600 m. Following the implementation of this submerged breakwater, the beach behind it increased in width by 64 m, in proportion to the installation length, while erosion phenomena, such as the loss of coastal roads, were observed at both ends of the structure. In this study, the topographical changes caused by waves and currents were analyzed to identify their causes and establish countermeasures. Additionally, the planned measures, established before structure installation, were closely examined against the actual occurrences observed onsite through a coastline survey. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Evolution and Erosion under Climate Change)
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<p>Research area (Anin Beach in Korea, February 2019): (<b>a</b>) boundary of the northern coast; (<b>b</b>) aerial view; (<b>c</b>) boundary of the southern coast.</p>
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<p>Wave characteristics and tide data from June 2016 to May 2019 in Anin Beach: (<b>a</b>) time series data of wave height and period; (<b>b</b>) tidal data; (<b>c</b>) distribution of wave height and period; (<b>d</b>) distribution of wave height and direction.</p>
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<p>Profile of beach width variation for Anin Beach: (<b>a</b>) measurement points and beach conditions; (<b>b</b>) survey results.</p>
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<p>Layout plan of construction work.</p>
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<p>Results of wave deformation modeling.</p>
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<p>Results for wave-induced current modeling under conditions of (<b>a</b>) no structure; (<b>b</b>) breakwater construction; (<b>c</b>) submerged breakwater construction.</p>
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<p>Results for topographical change modeling under conditions of (<b>a</b>) no structure; (<b>b</b>) breakwater construction; (<b>c</b>) submerged breakwater construction.</p>
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<p>Analysis of topographical changes due to breakwater construction.</p>
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<p>Specifications of the submerged breakwater: (<b>a</b>) profile view of the submerged breakwater; (<b>b</b>) a tetrapod; (<b>c</b>) an eco-block.</p>
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<p>Analysis of topographical changes due to submerged breakwater construction.</p>
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<p>Wave data from January 2020 to December 2023 for Anin Beach during construction work periods.</p>
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<p>Profile of beach width variation.</p>
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24 pages, 6222 KiB  
Article
Lidar-Derived Decadal Change in Barrier Morphology: A Case Study of Waisanding, Taiwan
by Hsien-Kuo Chang, Jin-Cheng Liou, Wen-Son Chiang and Wei-Wei Chen
Geosciences 2024, 14(12), 318; https://doi.org/10.3390/geosciences14120318 - 23 Nov 2024
Viewed by 319
Abstract
Barrier change is a complex process of evolution of coastal topography, which is related to the interaction of driving forces such as waves, tides and sea level rise (SLR) with beaches. The Waisanding Barrier (WSDB) in Taiwan has suffered from continuous beach erosion [...] Read more.
Barrier change is a complex process of evolution of coastal topography, which is related to the interaction of driving forces such as waves, tides and sea level rise (SLR) with beaches. The Waisanding Barrier (WSDB) in Taiwan has suffered from continuous beach erosion in recent decades. Some short-term studies have been carried out to understand the characteristics of the barrier change to provide a reference for future barrier protection. In this paper, the digital elevation model (DEM) measured by LiDAR (Light Detection and Ranging), over nearly two decades was used to analyze the morphological changes, the land area and volume. The changes in the morphology, including the whole shoreline, duneline height, width of forebeach and backbarrier, are investigated. The WSDB’s land area and land volume were analyzed to show a continuous decrease by a rate of −0.418 × 106 m2/year and −3.96 × 105 m3/year, respectively. The corresponding average land volume (LV) decrease in elevation can be estimated to be −0.0286 m/year. The changes in these features are discussed and relate to land subsidence, sea level rise and large waves induced by typhoons passing near WSDB. Full article
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<p>The red box on the Taiwan map in the upper left corner of this figure shows the location of WSDB, while three tide gauges and Wengangdui lighthouse for wind observation are marked with asterisks on the enlarged map from Google Earth map for 2024.</p>
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<p>A typical cross-section of a barrier island modified from Barrineau et al. [<a href="#B31-geosciences-14-00318" class="html-bibr">31</a>].</p>
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<p>Ten contour maps of WSDB from 2011 to 2022.</p>
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<p>Ten LiDAR-based shoreline shapes of WSDB from 2011 to 2022.</p>
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<p>Topographic changes observed in four equally spaced cross sections from north to south, measured at four-year intervals.</p>
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<p>The change in the length and width of WSDB over time where circles and crosses represent length and width, respectively, and their linear regression lines are represented by solid lines and dotted lines.</p>
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<p>The position of the dune-line for each LiDAR dataset.</p>
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<p>Orientation of the dune-line and of the shape for each LiDAR dataset.</p>
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<p>The position of the dune-line for each LiDAR dataset.</p>
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<p>The variation of dune height of three zones for ten measurements.</p>
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<p>The width of foreshore (<b>a</b>) and backbarrier (<b>b</b>) in three zones for ten measurements.</p>
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<p>Land area and volume of WSDB for ten measurements and the linearly fitted line.</p>
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<p>Annual average sea levels and fitted line for the BZL, WG and DS stations.</p>
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<p>The height and period of computed offshore significant waves of WSDB from 2004 to 2022.</p>
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<p>Accumulated excess wave energy from large waves exceeding the 4 m threshold per year.</p>
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29 pages, 41830 KiB  
Article
Beaches’ Expulsion from Paradise: From a Natural to an Artificial Littoral in Tuscany (Italy)
by Enzo Pranzini, Irene Cinelli and Giorgio Anfuso
Coasts 2024, 4(4), 697-725; https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts4040037 - 22 Nov 2024
Viewed by 977
Abstract
This study investigated the shoreline evolution of the Tuscany coast (Italy) from 1878–1883 to 2019. The 205 km sandy coastline, divided into 821 sectors, each one 250 m long, was analyzed to understand how human activities have altered this once-pristine coast. Sub-period analyses [...] Read more.
This study investigated the shoreline evolution of the Tuscany coast (Italy) from 1878–1883 to 2019. The 205 km sandy coastline, divided into 821 sectors, each one 250 m long, was analyzed to understand how human activities have altered this once-pristine coast. Sub-period analyses highlighted the impacts, both positive and negative, of various shore-protection projects. Initially, regional beaches were undeveloped and accreting, except for a few river deltas where alternating phases of erosion and accretion were observed. Coastal erosion began at deltas’ areas due to the reduction in sediment inputs and, at other areas, enhanced by the development of human settlements and tourism activities. This triggered the construction of protection structures that shifted erosion processes downdrift, a process that induced the downdrift extension of the structures (according to the “domino” effect), determining the transformation of a completely natural and resilient environment into a largely rigid one. Beach nourishment projects, mostly using inland quarries, added about 1 million cubic meters of sediment from the 1980s to 2019. Currently, 57.8% of beaches are larger than in the 1880s, 9.4% did not change and 32.8% are narrower. Overall, the Tuscan coast gained 6.5 km2 of beach surface with an average shoreline advancement of 32 m. Recent trends (2005–2019) show that 37.7% of the coast is eroding, 21.1% is stable, and 41.2% is accreting, with a total surface area increase of about 200,000 m2. The beach surface area is still increasing despite the existing reduced sediment input due to the limited sediment loss resulting from the presence of morphological cells enclosed by very prominent headlands and the absence of submarine canyons that would otherwise direct sediments to the continental shelf. Full article
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<p>Location map of the study area (in red the coast of continental Tuscany).</p>
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<p>San Rocco fort at the time of its building (1792) and its position today (Google Earth image April 2022).</p>
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<p>The wooden pier for marble loading at Forte dei Marmi (Marble Fort) and one of the first bathing establishments present on the IGM topographic map (1878).</p>
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<p>Physiographic sketch of the continental Tuscany coast showing main littoral cells, longshore transport directions, long-term evolution and shore-protection structures. Extreme values of offshore waves, i.e., significant wave height (H<sub>s</sub>), associated mean period (T<sub>m</sub>) and approaching direction values for three European Centre for MediumRange Weather Forecasts points are also reported [<a href="#B15-coasts-04-00037" class="html-bibr">15</a>].</p>
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<p>Pie charts showing the percentage of beaches undergoing erosion, stability and sedimentation for the 1881–2019 (<b>a</b>), 1881–1954 (<b>b</b>), 1954–1984 (<b>c</b>), 1984–2005 (<b>d</b>) and 2005–2019 (<b>e</b>) time spans. Note that the classes’ boundaries are not the same in the five graphs since they are consistent with the accuracy of the data used to characterize each interval.</p>
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<p>Long-term (<b>a</b>), 1881–2019, and recent (<b>b</b>), 2005–2019, shoreline displacement along the Northern Tuscany cell (<a href="#coasts-04-00037-f001" class="html-fig">Figure 1</a> and <a href="#coasts-04-00037-f004" class="html-fig">Figure 4</a>). Recent works that could have influenced coastal evolution are shown in red. Note: the vertical scale is different in the two graphs.</p>
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<p>Coastal evolution after Carrara harbor (1880–1954) and shore-protection structures’ (1954–1984) construction.</p>
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<p>The coast downdrift the Marina di Carrara harbor. The red arrow shows the coastal road that, until the 1930s, was running along the whole coast (authors’ photo, 8 November 2005).</p>
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<p>Shore-protection structures at Marina di Massa, with groins connected at their tips by a submerged (−0.5 m) detached breakwater (Photo Provincia di Livorno, 18 July 2007).</p>
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<p>Marina di Pisa was established at the end of the 19th century on the southern lobe of the Arno River delta, coinciding with the conclusion of the progradation phase (Istituto Geografico Militare, I.G.M., historical maps).</p>
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<p>Marina di Pisa: late 19th–early 20th century wooden coastal protections in an undated postcard, probably from the first decade of the 20th century.</p>
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<p>Marina di Pisa: converting hard structures into gravel beaches (from 1996 to 2020; authors’ photos).</p>
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<p>The cost south of Marina di Pisa (Sectors 215–220, <a href="#coasts-04-00037-f006" class="html-fig">Figure 6</a>b; Google Earth image acquired on 30 April 2024 and authors’ photo, 25 June 2004).</p>
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<p>The ‘low-accretion’ areas in the central part of this littoral cell over the long period (sectors nos. 80–90) can be explained by the reduction of sediment input from two small rivers but under the continuous arrival of sand from the north according to the predominant drift direction indicated by black arrows in the figure.</p>
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<p>Beach long-term (<b>a</b>), 1879–2019, and recent (<b>b</b>), 2005–2019, evolution of the Central Tuscany cell.</p>
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<p>Villa Ginori (indicated by a red arrow in the map), built in the early 18th century at the mouth of the Cecina River, is depicted in a print by Zocchi dated 1744, and its location is shown in the 1881 topographic map, illustrating beach progradation during the 18th and 19th centuries. However, such progradation was not continuous and may have been reversed, as suggested by other documents.</p>
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<p>The early development of Marina di Cecina according to the first editions of the I.G.M. map (1883 at 1:50,000: 1908 and 1938 at 1:25,000).</p>
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<p>The present configuration of Marina di Cecina shore-protection project and the new marina (Google Earth image acquired on 5 April 2022).</p>
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<p>(<b>a</b>) Authors’ photos of dune erosion and fallen pine trees south of Marina di Cecina (May, 2019) and (<b>b</b>) one of the eight artificial shoals under construction south of Marina di Cecina. On the left side of the photo, the salient soon formed is visible, along with the gravel used for beach nourishment (approx. 7000 m<sup>3</sup>).</p>
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<p>Beach long-term (<b>a</b>), 1878–2019, and recent (<b>b</b>), 1984–2005, evolution of the Follonica littoral cell. Recent works that could have influenced coastal evolution are marked in red. Vertical scale is different in the two graphs.</p>
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<p>Beach long-term (<b>a</b>), 1878–2019, and recent (<b>b</b>), 1984–2005, evolution of the Follonica littoral cell. Recent works that could have influenced coastal evolution are marked in red. Vertical scale is different in the two graphs.</p>
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<p>Beach response to the project carried out in the central part of the Follonica Gulf in the 1980s–1990s (pre- and post-work available shorelines).</p>
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<p>Marina di Scarlino and the beach expansion from 2000 to 2004. On the dry beach, piles of sand accumulated, intended to be transported a few hundred meters further north (Basemap Google Earth image, 2004). The small upper image shows the position of the marina within the Gulf of Follonica.</p>
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<p>Gravel nourishment stabilized by submerged groins. Salients are formed at the groins’ root. The revetment is at least twenty years older (authors’ photo, 31 May 2016).</p>
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<p>Beach evolution from 1883 to 2019 in the Ombrone River littoral cell. The lower accretion recorded at Collelungo is due to the fact that, in 1883, it constituted a small headland.</p>
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<p>Collelungo watchtower was built in the 16th century on a headland that, according to the 1883 I.G.M. map, was still protruding out of the shoreline and functioning like a groin. In the 1950s, it was still possible to dive from the rocks, but now there is a 70 m wide beach in front.</p>
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<p>Ombrone River delta in the Maremma Regional Park: (<b>a</b>) detached breakwater constructed to protect a house, now reached by the beach, on the northern side of the delta; (<b>b</b>) cusp formed by a submerged groin on the southern side of the delta. Waves breaking on the structure are visible, too (authors’ photos, 22 May 2020).</p>
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<p>The bypass active at the port of Marina di Grosseto: pipes discharge sand on the northern side (downdrift) of the jetties (authors’ photo, 6 January 2015).</p>
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<p>Castiglione della Pescaia: inversion of longshore sediment transport (yellow arrows) caused by wave diffraction and reflection (wave orthogonals in blue) along a shore oblique structure (base Google earth image acquired on 3 September 2023). In the upper right box: houses constructed on the dunes in the 1960s and 1970s and the detached breakwaters built for their protection (authors’ photo 6 January 2015).</p>
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28 pages, 23112 KiB  
Article
Adaptive Optimization of Wind Environment in Coastal Village Spatial Forms of Western Guangdong
by Yue Pang, Zhanxun Liang, Peisheng Xie and Li Li
Buildings 2024, 14(12), 3721; https://doi.org/10.3390/buildings14123721 - 22 Nov 2024
Viewed by 548
Abstract
Naozhou Island is located in a subtropical marine monsoon climate, with frequent windy days throughout the year, which has a significant impact on the residents’ lives. The spatial form of local traditional villages has adapted to the local wind environment through long-term practical [...] Read more.
Naozhou Island is located in a subtropical marine monsoon climate, with frequent windy days throughout the year, which has a significant impact on the residents’ lives. The spatial form of local traditional villages has adapted to the local wind environment through long-term practical exploration. This study aims to quantitatively analyze this layout to explore the patterns of its climate adaptability, thereby providing guidance for modern village construction. The research method primarily involves using CFD software (2019) to analyze the spatial form parameters of the village, namely village scale, planar form, building density, and orientation, along with their effects on average wind speed, wind speed amplification factor, and wind field coefficient under normal and extreme wind conditions. The results show that an appropriate planar form can enhance the wind adaptability of the village, while village scale and building density significantly affect the wind environment. However, the orientation of the village does not have a significant impact on wind field changes due to the discontinuity of the street system. These patterns of wind adaptability can assist in the planning and design of future coastal villages to enhance the wind environment regulation and disaster resilience of island villages. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Urban Climatic Suitability Design and Risk Management)
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<p>Location map of Naozhou Island.</p>
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<p>Climate map of Naozhou Island.</p>
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<p>Typical selection and measurement point layout of Yingming Village. (<b>a</b>) Typical village selection; (<b>b</b>) measurement point distribution map.</p>
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<p>Measurement point 1 and measurement point 10 wind speed and wind direction.</p>
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<p>Wind speed and direction at measurement points of two wind channels: (<b>a</b>) wind channel 4; (<b>b</b>) wind channel 9.</p>
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<p>Measured and simulated analysis of Yingming Village. (<b>a</b>) Simulated wind speed cloud map at four moments; (<b>b</b>) comparison of simulated wind environment values and measured values.</p>
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<p>Comparison of spatial morphological indicators of villages. (<b>a</b>) Differences in planar morphology; (<b>b</b>) differences in scale; (<b>c</b>) differences in building density; (<b>d</b>) differences in village orientation.</p>
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<p>Wind speed cloud maps and simulation values of different village forms under two wind conditions: (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>) normal wind conditions; (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>) extreme wind conditions.</p>
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<p>Numerical simulation of different building orientations. (<b>a</b>) Village wind speed cloud map; (<b>b</b>) simulation data.</p>
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<p>Wind speed cloud maps and simulation values for different village scales under two wind conditions: (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>) normal wind conditions; (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>) extreme wind conditions.</p>
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<p>Wind speed cloud maps and simulation values for different building densities under two wind conditions: (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>) normal wind conditions; (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>) extreme wind conditions.</p>
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<p>Wind speed cloud maps and simulation values for different building densities under two wind conditions: (<b>a</b>,<b>c</b>) normal wind conditions; (<b>b</b>,<b>d</b>) extreme wind conditions.</p>
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<p>Pearson analysis of morphological and environmental indicators.</p>
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<p>Significance test of village spatial morphology and wind environment indicators under two wind conditions.</p>
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30 pages, 6829 KiB  
Article
Model Sensitivity Analysis for Coastal Morphodynamics: Investigating Sediment Parameters and Bed Composition in Delft3D
by Robert L. Jenkins, Christopher G. Smith, Davina L. Passeri and Alisha M. Ellis
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(11), 2108; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12112108 - 20 Nov 2024
Viewed by 640
Abstract
Numerical simulation of sediment transport and subsequent morphological evolution rely on accurate parameterizations of sediment characteristics. However, these data are often not available or are spatially and/or temporally limited. This study approaches the problem of limited sediment grain-size data with a series of [...] Read more.
Numerical simulation of sediment transport and subsequent morphological evolution rely on accurate parameterizations of sediment characteristics. However, these data are often not available or are spatially and/or temporally limited. This study approaches the problem of limited sediment grain-size data with a series of simulations assessing model sensitivity to sediment parameters and initial bed composition configurations in Delft3D, leading to improved modeling practices. A previously validated Delft3D sediment transport and morphology model for Dauphin Island, Alabama, USA, is used as the benchmark case. A method for the generation of representative sediment grain sizes and their spatially varying distributions is presented via end-member analysis of in situ surficial sediment samples. Derived sediment classes and their spatial distributions are applied to two sensitivity case simulations with increasing bed composition complexity. First, multiple sediment classes are applied in a single fully mixed layer, regardless of sediment type. Second, multiple sediment classes are applied in a thin, fully mixed transport layer with underlayers containing only the non-cohesive sediment classes below. Simulations were carried out in a probabilistic, Delft3D MorMerge configuration to capture long-term morphology change for 10 years. We found there is sensitivity to the inclusion of additional sediment classes and sediment distribution made evident in bed level and morphology change. Inclusion of highly mobile fine sediments altered model results in each sensitivity case. The model was also found to be sensitive to initial bed composition in terms of bed level and morphology change, with notable differences between sensitivity cases on decadal timescales, indicating an armoring effect in the second sensitivity case, which used the transport and underlayer bed configuration. The results of this study offer guidance for numerical modelers concerned with sediment behavior in coastal and estuarine environments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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<p>Domain of the Delft3D model and model input elevations. Color bar in meters. Relevant landforms: Petit Bois Island, Dauphin Island, Pelican Island, and Ft Morgan Peninsula (yellow text). Relevant bodies of water, channels, cuts, and subaqueous shoals: Mississippi Sound, Mobile Bay, Petit Bois Pass, Main Pass, Katrina Cut, Ebb-Tidal Shoal, and Gulf of Mexico (black or white text). Depth contours from 0 m to 20 m are plotted as black contours and labeled with white text.</p>
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<p>The suite of models run for this study, including the Benchmark and sensitivity cases, shown in context with the bed configuration tested. ‘A’ Provides details of the Benchmark case. ‘B’ and ‘C’ provide details of the sensitivity cases.</p>
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<p>Maps of sediment class end-member (EM) relative abundance of each of four EMs. Relative abundance is illustrated using a colormap. Lesser and greater relative abundance are indicated by darker and lighter shades, respectively. (<b>A</b>) Relative abundance of EM1 (6 µm). (<b>B</b>) Relative abundance of EM2 (200 µm). (<b>C</b>) Relative abundance of EM3 (350 µm). (<b>D</b>) Relative abundance of EM4 (570 µm).</p>
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<p>Grid-following blocks used for volume change analysis (gray lines) grouped into 13 nearshore regions (heavy black lines). Numbering of analysis blocks are labeled with yellow text. Analysis regions cover the near-foreshore and back-barrier regions of Petit Bois Island, Dauphin Island, western portions of Fort Morgan Peninsula, and the inlets between each of the land masses. Little Dauphin Island and portions of the back barrier of Dauphin Island are excluded.</p>
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<p>Change in bottom depth (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>D</mi> <mi>P</mi> <mi>S</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>) given in meters (m) following 10-year MorMerge simulation as produced by the single layer, single fraction (Benchmark) case (<b>A</b>). For <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>D</mi> <mi>P</mi> <mi>S</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>, blue shades indicate areas of deposition, while orange shades indicate areas of erosion, in meters. Difference in final bed level (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <msub> <mrow> <mi>Z</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math>) given in meters (m) following 10-year MorMerge runs is also shown relative to the Benchmark case. (<b>B</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <msub> <mrow> <mi>Z</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> between the Single-Layer, Four-Class case and the Benchmark case. (<b>C</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <msub> <mrow> <mi>Z</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> between the Underlayer, Four-Class case and the Benchmark case. For <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <msub> <mrow> <mi>Z</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math>, blue shades indicate relatively shallower regions, while orange shades indicate relatively deeper areas (relative to the alternative noted in title).</p>
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<p>Change in volume within blocks (<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math>) given in meters cubed (m<sup>3</sup>) following 10-year MorMerge simulation as produced by each case. (<b>A</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> produced by the Single-Layer, Single-Fraction (Benchmark) case. (<b>B</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> produced by the Single-Layer, Four-Class (SL4C) case. (<b>C</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> produced by the Underlayer, Four-Class (UL4C) case. Blue shades indicate areas of volume gain (deposition), while orange shades indicate volume loss (erosion) within a block. Percentage difference in <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mi>Δ</mi> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> </semantics></math> (referred to as <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>f</mi> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math>) following 10-year MorMerge runs is also shown between each case. (<b>D</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>f</mi> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> between SL4C and the Benchmark case. (<b>E</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>f</mi> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> between the UL4C case and the Benchmark case. (<b>F</b>) <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>f</mi> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> between the UL4C case and the SL4C case. <math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <msub> <mrow> <mi>V</mi> <mi>o</mi> <mi>l</mi> <mi>u</mi> <mi>m</mi> <mi>e</mi> </mrow> <mrow> <mi>d</mi> <mi>i</mi> <mi>f</mi> <mi>f</mi> </mrow> </msub> </mrow> </semantics></math> is taken as the normalized relative difference between two end volume states. Blue shades are associated with a positive relative difference. Orange shades are associated with a negative relative difference.</p>
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<p>Linear regression, shoreline change rates (slope; black dash-dot line) and uncertainty (one σ; shaded envelope) computed for the open-ocean shorelines for two time periods from observed shoreline positions as presented by Smith et al. [<a href="#B51-jmse-12-02108" class="html-bibr">51</a>]. Linear regression, shoreline change rates calculated from modeled shoreline positions produced by the Benchmark case (red dotted line), the Single-Layer, Four-Class case (blue dashed line) and the Underlayer, Four-Class case (solid black line). Northward migration (erosion of the open-ocean shoreline) is given by positive values, while southward migration (accretion of the open-ocean shoreline) is given by negative LRR values (<b>A</b>) Transects at 5 km intervals as a spatial reference to the distance along shoreline. (<b>B</b>) Rates from the period of 1997–2015. (<b>C</b>) Shoreline change rates for the period of 1985–2006.</p>
Full article ">Figure 8
<p>Maps of initial island elevation (color bar) in meters (m) for three areas of interest (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>) with associated depth cross section (<b>D</b>–<b>F</b>). The initial model shoreline (dashed pink line) and final model shorelines produced by each sensitivity case (Benchmark case: red dotted line; Single Layer, Four-Class case: blue dashed line; Underlayer, Four-Class case: solid black line). The locations of depth cross sections (<b>D</b>–<b>F</b>) are shown in each map figure (<b>A</b>–<b>C</b>) by an orange line marked with a “<math display="inline"><semantics> <mrow> <mo>+</mo> </mrow> </semantics></math>”. At Pelican Island (<b>A</b>,<b>D</b>), both of the sensitivity cases with multiple sediment classes produced greater accretion at the shoreline (<b>A</b>) and the subaqueous nearshore than the Benchmark case. At the Katrina Cut region (<b>B</b>,<b>E</b>) shoreline accretion progradation and a building out of the nearshore region relative to the benchmark is also notable. In the area of the West End Spit (<b>C</b>,<b>F</b>), the cases with multiple sediment classes again show increased progradation of the shoreline, broadly, in a non-uniform manner.</p>
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<p>Maps of the relative abundance of sediment class end-members (EMs) and the locations of six model output observational transects (dotted black lines). Model output transects are labeled in (<b>A</b>) as DW (Dauphin West), DE (Dauphin East), PN (Pelican North), PS (Pelican South), PO (Pelican Offshore), and MP (Main Pass). The relative abundance of sediment class end-members is provided as context for the cumulative sediment flux of sediments of each class through each output transect. (<b>A</b>) shows relative abundance of EM1 in the region where observational transects are located. (<b>B</b>–<b>D</b>) provide relative abundance of EM2 through EM4, respectively, in the region where observational transects are located.</p>
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