Introduction: Easy DIY Kayak Stand

Easy DIY Kayak StandEasy DIY Kayak Stand
About: We're Mother Daughter Projects, sharing our DIY adventures as we learn to maintain, improve, decorate, and use tech in our homes.

One of my favorite ways to enjoy the beautiful lakes, rivers, creeks, and oceans in North Florida is to kayak! I get on the water at least once a week to enjoy the serenity of nature.

A friend of mine has a hardshell kayak that needed a simple solution for storage near her lake. Mom and I came up with this easy design using landscaping timbers!

Supplies

SuppliesSupplies
  • 8 ft. Landscape Timber (Home Depot)
  • 1/2 in. x 10 ft. #4 Rebar (Home Depot)
  • Flex Seal Clear 14 oz. Aerosol Liquid Rubber Sealant Coating (Home Depot)
  • DEWALT 20-Volt MAX XR Cordless Brushless Deep Cut Band Saw (Tool-Only) (Home Depot)
  • Titebond III 16 oz. Ultimate Wood Glue (Home Depot)
  • Makita 15 Amp 10 in. Dual Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw with Laser (Home Depot)
  • Bosch Daredevil Standard Spade Bit Set (6-Piece) (Home Depot)
  • WEN 600 lbs. Capacity Portable Clamping Saw Horse Work Bench with Non-Marring Jaws (Home Depot)
  • 1 in. Rigid Conduit 2-Hole Strap 4-Pack (Home Depot)
  • 4 ft Security Steel Cable (Amazon)
  • Outdoor 4 Digit Combination Lock (Amazon)

Step 1: Watch Video

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Step 2: Cut and Assemble

Cut and AssembleCut and AssembleCut and AssembleCut and AssembleCut and AssembleCut and Assemble

We are making the kayak stand one inch wider that the width of the kayak. We cut the landscape timbers on the miter saw to 32".

The supports are going to be two timbers thick. Here we are applying Titebond III glue, which is waterproof, to one timber in order to attach the two together.

We clamped the two timbers and allowed them to dry overnight.

We drilled holes for the base of the stand. A 3/4 inch spade bit worked well. Drilling the base holes worked best with the help of a vacuum and by drilling a little bit at a time and removing and clearing the hole frequently.

I cut the long piece of rebar into twelve-inch segments with the DeWalt portable band saw.

Step 3: Paint/Seal

Paint/SealPaint/Seal

After painting the two stands with outdoor house paint, the piece was covered with Flexseal sealant to help guard against moisture and damage to the bottom of the kayak.

The Flexseal, which is rubber in a can, sprays on. To keep the product free flowing after use, spray the can upside down for a few seconds. In total, Mom did three coats of Flexseal.

Step 4: Install

InstallInstallInstallInstallInstallInstallInstall

Time to install at the lake. We chose a clear spot near the water under a pine tree. Not the best spot due to the very real possibility of falling sap from the tree, but it was the best option. We determined the placement and pounded the rebar into the ground.

For a bit of security and to deter anyone from easily removing the kayak, I added a 2-hole strap on which I put a cable which I screwed into place. I'm using a Spax screw which as a specialized head so a common flathead or Phillips screwdriver won't work to remove it.

The locks add a bit of security and should act as a deterrent. Also, having the kayak secured to the base, should help keep it in place in the event of a storm.

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